Yes there is a significant difference.

To do the same amount of work, a 110 volt electric motor will require twice the amperage as what a 220 volt electric motor will.

Power(watts)=voltsXamps
which means: if you double the number of volts, the number of amps required will be half.

This makes 220 volts good for the pocket book when paying the electric bill.

Just to give an example of the difference between 110 & 220. For years I ran my 3 1/2 HP compressor on 110. When temps got down to 25 F., it was hard to start until comp warmed itself up. After I got my shop built, I converted the comp motor taps to 220 and now it will start right up at -20 F. I thought this would give you a real life example of the difference between the two voltages as to how much extra work 220 will do.
HTH,
Mike

When you run the splitter w/ the 100' cord have an electrician check how many amps the motor is pulling at full load. Even w/ 220 the voltage drop may burn out the motor.
Mike

"This makes 220 volts good for the pocket book when paying the electric bill."

You pay for kW-hr, so it doesn't matter if it's 110 at 10 amps or 220 at 5 amps, you'll use 1100 watts. Your power bill should be exactly the same.

Alright Macheim you are always killing the bird that laid the golden egg. I know you save because 220 will do it in twice the time of 110. Kill that bird with your mathematics.

voltage: amount of electrical push
resistance: amount of resistance to electrical push
current (amperage): how much electricity is flowing

SO... it does use half as much amperage but produces the same number of watts (assuming they are of the same design in this situation). And the power bill will be the same (sorry about that).
So... we'll throw that out the window. Pay the same amount on your electric bill.

220 is still better though. You say you want to run a 100' extension cord. For the same wire gauge, the 220 cord will be much better suited for the job and will not get as hot. The 220 electric motor will likely last longer.

I agree with macheim, the watts is the same, and it is the watts that we pay so dearly for.
Ask the power company technician.
But, IMO, it is better to use 220 when the opportunity presents itself.
I would run the log splitter on 220 volts(if possible) , the splitter company should tell you want to use....

Ok... i am no household electrician... I am trying to figure this system out.
Tell me if I got it right:

Power comes to the meter as 220v in the form of two 110v wires at an inverted wave compared to eachother. Out of the meter it goes to your breaker box. 110v appliances run off of one of those 110v wires and a ground and 220v appliances run off both of those wires?

does this look right, don?
{{gwi:315556}}

and then the power meter will read the number of amps traveling through it and compare whether or not that power is being pulled off just one 110vac line or two 110vac lines (which are running inverted waves to eachother) to calculate a kilowatt hour reading?

Your drawing is right except for the 220v.
To get 220 volts the two hots are connected together across the load.

The power input/output is the same for 110 or 220.
You may be inputting voltage at twice the rate
but the motor is still turning the same speed.
So the output power (torque x angular velocity) is equal.
So your power bill remains unchanged.

Pooh Bear

The two hots are connected together accross the load...?
Could you explain that to me?
I'm really curious.

Yeah... i was outside... enjoying the dusk and what-not...
Thinking about what I wrote in that first post. And it struck me -- the power meters read in killowatt hours. "Shoot!", I thought to myself. Then I hoped that no1 would read the post.

But seriously... how does this 110/220 get wired into the circuit breaker box?

As I understand the breaker boxes, there are 3 rails. Two (2) 110 rails and one (1) neutral rail. Each circuit breaker alternates which rail it draws from as you go down each side. Each circuit breaker plugs into the same neutral rail. So to get 220, you only need a double sized circuit breaker. Because each slot alternates the rails as you go down each side, you know are drawing from both rails with the double sized circuit breaker.

Sorry, I could not find a good picture of the arrangement. Others may be better able to explain, maybe even let me know I am wrong :).

So.....?
My picture is correct? The 220vac appliances pull off of two 110vac lines which are running inverted waves to eachother (one line [at a specific point in time] will have -110vac and the other line will have +110vac) and the difference between their states in charge will equal a net 220vac?

Oh, sorry, I just looked at your picture again.
It shows that you have the 220 circuit as being
two 110 wires connected across the load.
I'm used to seeing the neutral wire in the middle.
-----------(+110) The + and - in this case are for
---------(neutral) referance only. They actually
-----------(-110) switch 60 times per second.
You drew it at the bottom and I didn't look close enough.

By across the load I mean the load is in series with the circuit.
In this case the load is a motor.

(+110)--------(Load)--------(-110)

220 motors are run without a neutral connected.
The ground wire is still used to ground the frame.

Pooh Bear

But seriously... how does this 110/220 get wired into the circuit breaker box?

The voltage is a potential difference between two reference points.
The points of referance can be one of the 110 wires and a neutral,
or they can be on both of the 110 wires.
Graph voltage over time for one of the 110 wires and you get a sine wave.
Graph the same for the other wire and you get a sine wave.
At the same instant in time these sine waves are 180 degrees
out of phase from each other. They are equal phases (single phase),
but one of them is shifted 180 degrees on the graph.
Just like you drew it.
Graph these on the X axis with the axis being neutral.
The distance between any point on one of the sine waves and
the X axis has an RMS max of 110 volts potential difference.
Graph any point on one of the sine waves with the same point
on the other sine wave and the RMS max is 220 volts potential difference.
So, you hook a hot and neutral together, you get 110 volts RMS.
You hook two 110 wires together you, you get 220 volts RMS.

RMS = Root Mean Square. It means the average voltage.
The actual max voltage of one of the lines is around 170 volts.
But the sine wave only reaches that level for an incalculably
small amount of time, so the usable voltage is normally stated
as the RMS voltage.
Sorry if this just adds to the confusion.

Pooh Bear
(Ol' Fluff for Brains)

Here is a link that might be useful: Wikipedia -- RMS explained

No sense arguing. The same amount of watts would be used. Same power bill.

I was just waiting for someone to throw in that Root Mean Square thing. :-)
Anyway, subject is well covered, but go with 220 for the sake of better wiring! I figure that anything that is going to use a significant amount of power, (wattage "with high current required>) deserves 220 and almost every residential service entrance has 220 vac available right from your benevolent(?) power company at no extra cost.
Just an added thought, If you have some sort of multimeter, check to see that your service entrance has a GOOD ground connection to the transformer as well as the optional ground rod connection that many electricians(?) seem to think is not necessary. For those in high electrical storm activity, a diode is available from electrical supply houses that can be connected to that ground rod. It could very well save you from dealing with your friendly(?)insurance company.
Jonas

Sorry to dissapoint everyone, but 220v will spin your meter slightly less than 110v to do the same end work, be it a certain CFH of compressed air, or whatever end power use you want to compare. This is due to less electrical power being wasted as heat in the conductors, and connectors.

That's true, but it will take you several years to recoup
that extra penney it is costing to run 110 volts vs 220 volts.
In other words, the savings is too small to be relevant.

Pooh Bear

Well,dmullen, I guess you certainly know the difference between 110v and 220v by now. This was all quite interesting.
Mike

Lots of interesting posts. I don't understand many of them but have decided that 220 volt is the way to go.

Thanks to all

Well, Don, if 220 does it in twice the time of 110 you're actually paying twice as much. Therefore, 110 would be cheaper.

If you meant to say 220 does it in 1/2 the time of 110 then the 220 appliance is probably using twice as much power.

So, again, if you use 1500 watts for 1 hour, it's the same cost as using 3000 watts for a 1/2 hour.

I'm sorry about killing another bird.

somebody's gonna get hurt before this one is over.

That wasn't my intention. Sorry if it came across that way.

It was meant to be humorous but it's hard to get that from typed words.

Geez, I was hoping someone would challange my last post.

Danman, I totally agree with you. As it has been proven, a watt hour meter will theoretically read the same number of watt hours when it powers either an 110vdc electric motor or a 220vdc electric motor.
In actuality, a 220vdc electric motor is more efficient because it will draw less current (amperage) than an 110vdc electric motor which means there will be less opportunity to resist current flow and slightly less heat generated.
For the original posterÂs situation -- especially because the poster plans to run the log splitter on a 100' extension cord -- 220vdc is better suited for the job. This is all assuming that the 110vdc and 220vdc models are rated for the same wattage.

System schematic:
{{gwi:315558}}

macheim, mine was meant to be humurous the same as yours. I took no offense at all although I didn't understand a thing you said and I'm kinda' glad.

wise_guy,

Are you assuming the motor's windings and wires are exactly the same between the two different voltages?

Most motors are wired for the intended load. Therefore, a 220V motor would use a lower gage wire than a 110V motor, assuming the wattage and efficiency rating were the same. Therefore, the resistance/heat produced by either would be the same. (I'm not talking about different applications for the motor where the number and gage of windings could be different.)

Is there any chance you could switch to a gas powered splitter so we can discuss Hp ratings?

Yes, machiem, the motors will be designed specifically for the load they will be operating and the amperage they will be drawing. 220vdc motors are usually smaller in size and internal wire gauge for the same watt-rated 110vdc motor.

But I was primarily speaking about the voltage drop that you will encounter from the watt-hour meter to the log splitter. 220vdc household wiring is usually pretty beefy because it is designed to run high draw appliences like clothes dryers and air conditioners. And usually 220vdc extension cords are of a pretty respectable gauge.

I understand that all of this probably has a very little effect on the over-all performance, but there is still a slight difference. So once again, assuming that the two models are rated at the same wattage and -- now I'll throw in -- assuming that the log splitter will recieve heavy use and the 220vdc model is comparibly priced, I believe that the 220vdc model would be better suited to the job.

Given the choice, I would go with 220 volts.

And it's 220vac, not 220vdc.

Anyone want to debate the savings caused by 220v vs 110v thru the extension cord? Just bump the cord up a size and it won't matter. Of course my prior statement still holds. Gonna take you a long time to recoup that extra penney you save.
Now, we have already beat this horse to death.
Are we gonna continue to beat a dead horse?

Pooh Bear

poohbear... I think it is pretty obvious what I meant. I don't know how I could have typed the whole post using the wrong electrical unit... but the above posts reflect what I meant to type -- 110vac and 220vac.

What about the savings through the circuit breaker box and wiring from the box to the outlet?

Hmm... apparently I made numberous references to VDC
VAC is the correct unit and thanks for pointing it out poohbear.

I am much used to VDC I guess.

I knew what you meant. Hope I didn't sound too harsh.
I'm getting sleepy and that makes me a growly bear.

I guess I just don't understand the merits of debating a
monetary savings that is too small to be relevant.

Gonna go hibernate for a while now.
Good night all.

Pooh Bear

What? Nobody mentioned 230vac or 460vac 3-phase? :)

Just kidding

Don't forget the cost of 100 feet of copper wire using heavier gauges as you try to eliminate voltage drop (heat)by using a heavier gauge copper for the 110v. Another vote... for the 220v motor!

Question If I took a 220 extension cord and bought a Pair of Male and Female ends for 220 either 30 or 50 amp and a Pair of Male and Female ends for 110 and made up a pair of adapters so I could use the 220 cord for 110.

I doubt this would pass OSHA but if I used it for myself only and of course the two adapters would have to be used always to gether on on each end of the 110 cord or else I could run it to a problem wrong voltage to the wrong piece of equipt and damage some thing

Please give me your 2 cents

Wow.....what a strange thread.

A motor rated to run on 120 VAC will draw double the amperage it does when run on 240 VAC. On that issue, I agree.

The real issue here is the extension cord and the resulting voltage drop at 100 feet from the power source. The higher the amperage of the device at the end of that cord, the greater the problem. Fourteen guage wire is adequate at 100 feet if you are pulling about ten amps.

Yes, I know that 14 ga. is rated for 15 amps but in this instance we are talking about a motor that has fluctuating loads while splitting logs. I have a portable 120 VAC hotdog tanked air compressor with a 1.5 hp cap start motor. That unit hates being on an extension cord unless it's at least 12 ga. or even better, 10 guage wire.

So, if the OP intends to use his existing cord, he has to think about a few things here. What is the guage of wire in this cord? If it's 16 gauge, it's useless for this application at any voltage. If it's 14 guage, it's likely too light to run that motor efficiently on 120 VAC. If it's 12 guage or 10 guage, it's likely fine for the application at 120 VAC. HOWEVER, it will have the WRONG plug and receptacle on it for 240 VAC. The OP will have to buy the correct plugs and receptacles to wire everything properly (safely) or someone is going to be in for a big surprise.

Items that are designed to run on 240VAC use plugs and receptacles that are RATED for the amperage of the application and each one has a different blade configuration to prevent accidental damage/overload/fires/etc.

240 VAC plugs and receptacles come in ratings of 15, 20, 25, 30, 40 and 50 amps. The plug on the 240 VAC log splitter will set the standard for the blade configuration.

I agree that buying a 240 VAC unit is the way to go but not for some of the reasons stated so far. My reason has to do with the extension cord needed. A 14 guage extension cord will easily deliver 20 amps at the end of 100 feet. That motor will snap to life a tad quicker and it will recover from heavy loading a tad quicker too. Induction motors run coolest when they are spinning at their rated RPM. If you slow them down, the current rises quickly and so does the internal temps of that motor. Overload that motor too long and it will begin to smoke.

From there, it's all downhill for that motor.

The simplest solution is to buy the 120vac unit along with a 100 foot ten guage extension cord. You will have good power at the end of that cord and you may find other uses for it.

If you go with the 240 vac unit, you will need to either convert your existing cord or another one, plus putting in the correct outlet in your garage. You will also have to make sure that the circuit breaker for that 240vac outlet is sized correctly to protect the extension cord and motor.

I had assumed that my electrician was going to wire my small "Summit" Liesure Bay hot tub with 220 instead of 110. However, when I looked afterwards found he took the 110 option, running perhaps 40' of No. 12 wire for the new circuit from our house. The one difference is that you cannot run the heater and jets at the same time on 110. I don't know the actual power needed, but the salesman said that he had heard that 220 is maybe $2 or 3 cheaper per month to run. Also, in start up from cold water the 110 heats about 3 degees F, whereas the 220 would do 6 degrees F per hour.
I assume that the 220 v circuit would have code mandated No. 10 wire. If so, according to one web source 40' of 12/2 Romex would cost about $126 whereas 40' of 10/3 would have been $384
Anyone have any quantitative information as to why the cost of heating would be less for the 10/3? I don't yet have any idea of how many Kw-hr would be involved, but know that the electrical rate in Tallahass becuase they generate with natural gas.

Jccain,
You probably should start your own thread about your topic.
The hot tub will have electrical requirements stated that the electrician should have to run a circuit.
Salesmen in general don't know crap about anything other than a sale.
Hot tubs don't heat very fast. They aren't electric water heaters. Mine would take at least a couple days to get up to temp when starting from new cold water. Mine also ran on 110 v. The circuit just needs to be sized properly.

IMO 220 is safer in certain heavy load condition. Beings most of use don't know the condition and sometimes the type of wiring in our home. 220 is always a safer choise IMO. Now as far as a 100 foot extension cord laying on the ground in a wet possible damage potential area. I would much rather be shocked by 110 than 220. I would get the 110.

As far as hot tubs I got one on 220, it takes about 5 hours to go from fresh fill temp of 68 to 102 with 350 gal. of water.

The most important difference is that wires (to include extension cords) can carry twice as much wattage (current) and do twice as much work on 220 volts because the amperage is cut in half.

For all practical purposes residential wiring can handle several hundred volts (usually 600).

14 guage will handle no more than 10 amps;
12 guage will handle no more than 15 amps;
10 guage will handle no more than 20 amps.

The lower the guage number, the heavier (thicker) the wire.
The amount of amperage that a guage can handle is a function of the wire cross section (area = Pi x R2).
The increased cost to go from 14 guage to 12 guage, or from 12 guage to 10 guage is usually about 30%.
Thus the cost per amp capacity decreases as the size increases.

Unfortunately the cost of the 220 volt terminals (plugs, receptacles, sockets, etc.), is substantially more than the same item for 110 volt items.

Bottom line: if you need a lot of power (big air compressor, etc.) and / or you have to run more than 50 feet of wire (cost of wire offsets cost of terminals), 220 volt is usually the better choice.