I called a garage door installation company for advise. They seemed happy to help.

Thanks Slowpoke! I tried that and the suggestions were one new double door or two single new systems. The doors are fine for my need but the old system and parts are not being supported by the Overhead Door Companies in this area. âÂÂIn This Areaâ might be the key since IâÂÂm told the house can not be sold with this style of door in the North TX area âÂÂNowâÂÂ. Heavy winter weather prevents the door from pivoting out at the bottom vs going straight up (âÂÂmaybeâ once in 3-4 winters until a light shovel chore and plenty safety exits).

Change And Spending vs Repairing is the system that has left me behind. I probably would have gone to two new doors if I had left enough room when I built the 1970s storage over the doors. I might investigate that again since I left the clearance I measured needed on âÂÂOne Setâ of Rolling Doors (thinking most requires the same).

The Bottom Line is My Level Of Newer Homes w/n allow the rear access to store (boat, utility trailer and 3-4 cords of firewood). My wife says our next move will probably be a retirement village. I Agree! If there is a Hobby Shop, Fishing, Walking Trails and Etc For Young Folks, âÂÂIn 10 YearsâÂÂ. LOL

The idea that a house can't be sold in N TX with those type of garage doors is nonsense. As long as the house has garage doors that are still solid and work reasonably well, they're a non issue...
The storage over the doors might not be an issue either as long as the overhang is sufficient to allow a new panel style door(s) to "fold" over at the apex of the metal tracks.
Steve

Thanks TXSkeeter!

I believe you could be correct on both issues. The Door Repairman that told me the doors would have to be replaced before selling was not trying to sell me doors. He was encouraging me to keep the doors. He said in the San Diego, CA area many are of this type (since hard winters are not expected). IâÂÂll try to contact him to see if he can help me find heavier springs. The openers have worked since the mid 80s (with repairs), they or I could use a little help. I feel one set has stretched more from âÂÂCyclesâÂÂ/Use because it feels heavier. As far as I know these type doorâÂÂs weight is not balanced to stand open at any point. The springs should carry the bulk of the weight.

I have seen single and double sheet metal doors that were almost impossible to open due to broken springs. ThatâÂÂs the #1 reason I w/n want a double wide door. They are handy with todayâÂÂs Trucks. Plus, if the house w/n designed âÂÂGood Newâ with the span for the double door, I feel you will get some sag. There is 2.5 âÂÂof 2X4 just above the case openings below the 3/4â Ply 2 Cabinet Units mounted vs built in. The 2X4 can go if needed to fit panel doors due to screws cabinet to framing and threaded rod bottom of cabinet to above supports on top of truss ceiling joists. The Over Kill in the 70s was my nature âÂÂBut Not TodayâÂÂ. Brass bushings and tempered bolts are fitted in the arms to allow more years.

We or I had planned to move bake to a Simpler Life after retirement but things and Grands have changed. We moved here in 1973 on the last street, now there are miles of streets/homes south of us to the next towns. Enough Said!

"The Sears openers have worked since the mid 80s ... Suggestions!"

Just as a cautionary practice, be sure to run your doors occasionally (every few months?) without the openers. This is also the time to check for good roller operation. A big problem I found in my years installing and fixing those things was a spring would break (not so obvious on an over-the-door torsion assembly) and the opener would keep on hauling the door up. Often the owner would crank down the force adjustment on the opener to keep things working and all the while thinking it was because the opener was going bad.

Then the opener would eventually break and there'd be a double repair bill, once for the spring and one for the fried opener.

You may contact the manufacturer, (the name on the opener not the company that installed or installs doors)

If you do a google search you can sometime find the manufacturer has the information that you are looking for on line.

As for price, you may also be able to buy them directly from the manufacturer, or from an online distributor of the manufacturers products.

I can't see the springs in your pic, can you get a close up shot of them? I work on the doors at my place of employment, but they are industrial type doors.

Yours doesn't appear to have the same type of springs.

On another note, be very careful when working with the springs! My best friend lost a finger adjusting his!

I am trying to use photpbucket to show the springs in one thread and hope the htmls will get it done.

1. IâÂÂll attach with the doors open and closed.
2. The spring on the left is 30â at rest, opens to approx 46â and smooth with less wt felt.
3. The spring on the right is 24â at rest. opens to approx 40, not as smooth with more wt felt.
4. I can not remember the 1968 springs breaking since 1973 move in to cause the different springs.
5. I have heavy wire attached to all 4 since the broken spring went to the floor and and bounced.
6. Just the hook broke as if there could be wear there even with my copper bushing and grease.

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One of the things you haven't mentioned so far and a question in my mind is... are the doors the same size (width) and theoretically at least, approximately the same weight?
Or... as you've inferred but not noted directly, is one a single width door and the other a double wide? If so, it would account for the difference in spring lengths.
I think "stretching from use" might be a misnomer here since springs of that size and typical material composition rarely if ever stretch more than a smidgen. They will eventually fail from fatigue (probably the case here) but if you place the two broken pieces back into the correct orientation and measure total length, there's likely not going to be more than 1/8" difference between the original and the 'used for many years' lengths.
These extension springs don't work the same way as torsion springs might on a roll up type door. In effect, the original installation may have specified some "ideal" or starting distance between the spring hangers for a door of "X" size and weight while in reality, the ideal distance between hangers for the spring to counter balance the door properly may be several inches up or down or in the end, it may have been what the original installer had on his truck at the time, ie: the door worked fine after installation even though one set of springs might have been substituted for the "correct" set of springs.
Of course, if the two doors are different sizes then the foregoing is a moot point.
Steve

Thanks Steve! The doors are the identical size and weight BUT 10 -15 lbs heavier than original panels. When the builderâÂÂs grade doors started failing in the late 70s, I replaced them with 1.25 X 1.25 X .25 angle iron frames, filled with 3/8â finished grade Ply with windows (to reduce weight and good light. With those spans I wanted to use a corrugated sheet metal skin. I settled for ply after seeing the weight would be close and more stable.

Typically this would have been a small starter home with fair quality but IMO Homes Quality took a turn in the 70s (from my Sideline Handyman repairs mid 60s- today). This could easily be a start to finish (1973 - ?). I d/n stay away from garage doors work intentionally. I only replaced one double doorâÂÂs broken torsion spring about 1980 w/o a problem. I have always respected some jobs as specialist jobs.

I have not given up (vs taking a break) on my hopes to find a source for new 30â long springs the quality as the originals. The used 24â springs appear the be working fine but my original 30â works better (lighter lift 20-25 lbs and smooth vs a slight jerk).

I measured and took pics of my neighborâÂÂs panel doorâÂÂs tracks and hardware. I realized they would not allow my present cabinets mounted over the doors. My goal is to keep the stronger doors and cabinets by finding a source of springs but look at other options.

As an Option I have found a little about Holmes springs and hardware. This system lifts the door overhead without a track overhead. I am trying to find a Picture or Holmes springs lifting a solid door video. The 800# âÂÂContact Usâ has told me that there are no showrooms of local distributors where I can see the system. Do any of you have this system or have seen it and can share info on it?

Another option will be to add lighter coated metal in place of the 3/8â ply to get a light enough door that stocked extension (as in the ceiling ) will work as stretch springs mounted to the bottom of case to arm will work (as the Holmes spring).

Attached is my neighborâÂÂs panel doorâÂÂs hardware. Then links to the best I could find on E900 Holmes Spring System. I plan to out live these doors. LOL!!

E900 Hardware Link below:
http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=holmes+e900&ei=utf-8&fr=att-ie8

Here is a link that might be useful: E900 Hardware