1. Did you mix 2cycle oil with your fuel? If so, at what ratio?
2. Did you add bar oil to the saw to oil the bar and chain?
3. Do you have past successful experiences of using a chainsaw?
4. Please give some more history/info on the matter.
5. Something seems strange in this matter. Help Us Help You!

1.It has fuel from previous owner. I got proper mixfuel 2% of husqvarna oil.
2.I sink oil for chain on the bar. I try to clean it out that machine could lubricate chain.
3. no
4.When i bought saw owner try it in front of me without chain. And it lubricate proper the bar without chain. I bought chain and set up on the machine. Then it wont lubricate chain. It drop black oil from place where's bar set up. So i oiled up bar and set up chain and the machine work unproperly. The mask of bar was so hot i couldnt put finger on it. I let it up machine vertical to release oil from her. So now i dont know what to do it.

Here's a link to the Operator's Manual for the Husqvarna 340. Page 25 has instructions for mounting and adjusting the guide bar and chain. Make sure you can pull the chain along the bar smoothly after you get it mounted and adjusted. Report back if its not oiling properly. You should be able to see oil on the chain drive links after the saw been running for 30 seconds or so. It takes just a little while for the oil to be pumped from the oil tank to the bar. The bar and chain should not be getting hot until after you've started cutting.

Here is a link that might be useful: Operator's manual 340 EPA II 345 EPA II 350 EPA I

Yes, i have manual on my language. I did it by instructions. But it does not pumping oil on the chain and bar. So i smear oil over bar manual, trying to clear edge of the bar, oil channel and bar tip sprocket. Put it on machine and then start problems.It goes overhot. I left machine vertical to release oil from it and i will try tomorow to start machine to see is it everything ok with machine.

1. Run the saw w/o the bar âÂÂAgainâ to verify the saw is oiling âÂÂgoodâ at the port w/o the bar in place.

2. If the saw is oiling good at the port, make sure the oil port is aligning with the oil port on the bar.

3. Make sure the bar is the correct one, clean, with no resistance on the chain and not too tight.

4. If there is not a good flow of oil and all is correct, ck the tank for sawdust/etc. Flush the tank clean with solvent that will wash away oil. Clean the port with wire or drill bit âÂÂnot too deepâ (check manual). Back flush the oil port with compressed air.

5. What wt of oil are you using? What is the temp there?

Good Luck!

Thanks I'll try it tomorrow.
5. 100ml husqvarna oil and 5l gasoline 95octane
20 degree celsius

I start it up and it doesnt work normally . It rotate rag wheel in idle very fast. So i turned it off. Later i couldnt start it up so i carry it to service

A Good Decision At This Point IMO! Please share the findings that might help others.

I got back chain from service. It is replaced air filter, membrane, spark plug and it was set up carburetor. It seems that previous owner didnt do anual service at all. It starts up well now. But i couldnt judge is it proper amount of oil sheds out of saw. First 10 seconds it doesnt sheds any oil and then eject many droplets. I will call someone who works with chainsaw to see is it regular lubricate of chain.

Point the bar close to an object, board, etc while itâÂÂs running and you should see oil slinging off the chain. Does the saw have a manual oil pump also? If so, prime the bar and chain before starting and add oil on large cuts if you are not seeing signs of oil. I even have a small pin/pointed grease gun to add grease to the nose of bars with bearings.

I prefer the laser tip bars with no sprocket or bearings due to my surplus of chain stock (which eliminates matching sprockets). Attached is a good sign of good oiling, âÂÂWetâÂÂ.

Good Luck and Concern! A BIG Thanks On Follow-up Reply!

BTW, I have not started a gas saw since adding fresh treated fuel and starting approx 3 mo ago. I'm sold on electric when possible.

PS. Another upgrade I have noticed is that the attachment remains after a preview.

I would like to add to the above about the electric Chainsaw. Unless you make it a habit to cut large 10" and greater diameter trees, more that 200 feet from the nearest power receptacle I would recommend going with an electric.

With an electric you do not have to worry about gas mixtures. You can put it into the shed and six months from now you plug it in and do what needs to be done. You do not have to worry about stabilizing the gas, or making sure the carburetor is drained of gas.

Will it do the job. YES. In Hurricane Fran we had about 30 trees down in our yard. There was everything from saplings about 3" in diameter to the long leaf pine that was about 30" at the base. We used the electric chain saw to bring them down, if necessary, and cut them up for disposal. Yes the long leaf was 30" at the base. We used the 14" electric chainsaw to make a cut completely around the base and then popped it off with wedges.

I still have the same saw, and used it last summer to cut up a 12 inch Sweet gum that came down in a storm. It still gets the same attention that it always gets, looking at it and saying that's a chainsaw, filling the oil reservoir. and plugging it in, and it is ready to do the job.

As for safety, I believe it is safer than a gas saw in that the blade stops when the switch is release, unlike the gas one which continues to run until the clutch spins down. The only thing you need to watch is the cord. If not careful you can nick it and cause problems.