I hope I'm not getting too technical, but check to see if each control valve has it's own pressure relief valve.If so, this could be the problem. If not and there is only one press relief valve it could be the large cylinder still has enough force to split wood even with reduced pressure.
My $.02 worth,
Mike

Hi, thank you for your reply, but there are not separate pressure relief valves. The large cylinder does have enough force, but it's extrememely difficult to only use the large one. This machine is made to use both, when it becomes too "labour intensive" to utilise the large one, you need to use the smaller one, which under normal circumstances, would knock the heck out of any bit of wood you've got.

Find the ID tag on your splitter and get Omegas phone number. Call them, and they will tell how to fix it. Use Google search, if you can't find Omegas phone number.

Bellacat,

Just a question, or request for a confirmation. I read you post to say the manual log splitter works great, well when working. These machines have not seen good reviews in the past, but as I recall they were not so much user reviews as comments from disbelivers.

I still use wedge, maul, axe and would be happy to use the hydraulic if it works. I'd also like to be able to split logs up to 20" long, or at the very least 18" long. I'd also like to split some logs that are 1 to 2 feet in diameter. What size logs were you able to work with?

Thanks,
Jerry

Hi Jerry, we have been able to split logs about 18" at the longest with this particular log splitter. The largest diameter we've done so far was probably about two feet. We've spoken on the phone to a hydraulics repair company, and the man we spoke to seems to think that because these machines are usually made in "certain foreign countries"... ;) ... , the parts are not the high quality they could be. We're going to buy a new pair of pistons and stick them on to see if that helps. I would definitely recommend a machine of this type (whichever brand) because it saves so much time and effort. And don't forget, even a little woman like me can split very big, heavy logs with minimal effort! And plus it's silent, which over here in England where our houses can be very close together, you won't disturb your neighbours.
Just to add, we did call Omega, but the very nice man we spoke to couldn't help us, and referred us back to Screwfix, the company who distributes these logsplitters. They were quick to offer a refund or replacement (but the item is out of stock til January). So, like I mentioned, we're just going to get new pistons for it.

bellacat,

Thanks, I think I'll buy one. I had looked at them with some interest at Harbor Freight, all Chinese made. I have purchased a number of items from them over the years and they do have sufficient quality given the price. That is the "stuff" isn't junk, but it isn't of the quality you need if you're going to work the product 8 hours a day, 5 days a week.

I'll look locally too, I know Home Depot has an electric splitter, but interestingly it develops less force, I think it advertises 5 Tons. Seems too the electric at HD is about $300, more than the manual hydraulics.

From what you say it reads "getting new pistons" is an off-the-shelf operation, and I assume that means you plan to buy a dual piston jack that fits the hardware you have. I assume too as you rejected the replacement you figure the piston replacement will result in a better quality unit.

I am also looking to buy one of these type of splitters, has anyone seen this unit. http://www.minisplitter.com
It says on their site it was shown on the David Letterman show.

Spinnervin,

I see you revived an old message thread. I considered this type of splitter, but dropped the idea because manual splitting, regardless of how you do it, requires you to supply the energy to do the splitting. Whether you split manually with a maul and/or wedge and sledge, splitting a significant amount of wood is tiring. I prefer to have an electric motor do the work.

MM

MM what electric splitter did you go with? How do you like it. I was also lokking at the 4 ton Ryobi splitter sold through Home Depot. for 299.99 I will only need to split 2 to 3 cords of wood a season.

Spinnervin,

As it happens, I haven't made my purchase yet. I am going to get an electric model. I don't think the 4-ton Ryobi would handle many of our bigger logs, but if your logs aren't too big, it is cost effective. I will probably get at least a 12-ton model. For more information on this, please click on this link to read the electric log splitters message thread.

I had planned to get a Ramsplitter, but as you can see from reading that message thread, and the links that it contains, there have been quite a few twists and turns in my shopping for an electric log splitter.

Although they cost more, I am currently thinking that I will get a Bachtold HE21 12-ton electric model. I particularly like its log tray feature, which returns a piece to you so that you can conveniently re-position it for another split.

MM

Be careful of buying anything from Omega Stores. See the complaint history at http://www.complaints.com/ (search for "log splitters" or Omega).

Here is a link that might be useful: Omega Stores - Big hustle!

Well...I just took the plunge and purchased an Omega 9-ton splitter. I'll let you all know how it goes when I get it.

Seeing this thread has been revived I jump in to say I purchased the Harbor Freight, at a local store outlet, 10 Ton manual splitter for $79.99, on a $30 off sale. This looks to be identical to the Norther Tool unit that lists for $149.99, now on a $10 off sale, plus shipping, which could be high considering the weight, 100 lbs.

I've only briefly tested mine, and it works. I note some logs I cut too short will not split. The piston travel goes only about 8" so a 12" long log can't be pushed into the wedge. Most of my wood is in the 15 - 18 inch range and that works in the splitter.

It also helps if the logs are cut at a 90 degree angle, not on a slant, as some of mine are. I hadn't taken too much care in the "bucking" of logs because splitting with a maul didn't require a "perfectly flat" face on the end.

I gave the HF manual splitter a workout on about 20 rounds of Eastern Red Cedar. This stuff splits so easily that there was no need to use the low speed pump/side. The splitter is rated at 10 Ton, and I'm sure one has to put some muscle behind the low speed pump to generate that pressure. I'd guess the cedar splits with less than 1 ton pressure.

The splitter worked well, if slow. Clearly an electric rated at only 4 tons would handle cedar easily and be a lot faster. I do split hardwood too, so I may need the higher pressure when doing that wood type.

You will need considerable pressure on oak, particularly where knots are involved.

MM

I have the same problem and have determined it to be the speed the oil flows in to the pressure piston when cold. Try placing the splitter at a greater angle with the pump low and the wedge high. I found this will help. I'm going to also try lighter oil.

I have a manual 10 ton hydraulic log splitter (purchased from Northern Tool) and I also have a problem with a loss of driving force. At first I thought that I had lost some hydraulic fluid so I bought some more fluid. Then I stood the splitter on-end with the reservoir end up (wedge down). I did this thinking that if air had gotten to the cylinder it may rise in to the reservoir. I then unscrewed and removed the fill plug - I also removed the relief valve (it has a knurled hand knob). When I tried to fill the reservoir (through the fill port) the added fluid just ran out. Then I tried to add fluid to the hole that normally holds the relief-valve - again the added fluid ran out. Repeating this procedure with the splitter at a 45 degree angle (reservoir up) gave the same results. I think this all means that the splitter is not low on fluid. Your comment about the fluid becoming more viscous when it is cold may be correct ( I have been using it in 20 degree (F) weather ). I have found that a delay interval of 3-6 min brings back a small amount of piston movement but as you can imagine this really delays completion of the work. I didn't see different oil weights in our stores so I'd be interested in how light oil works. An earlir response in this thread said bringing the splitter in the basement (to warm up) didn't improve function.

hydraulic systems are very delicate and it important to keep all their little elements very clean. This is the case, for example, of overcentre valves: if they are dirty all the system (as the hydraulic log splitter) could work very badly.

An "old" man once told me that his log splitter would split more wood than I could with my maul. Chuckling As he had recently retired from Florida and lived in Georgia, I had split many a cord from 8 years old on (I was a big kid). My maul splits when I want it to not when the parts arrive to fix the hydraulics/engine/motor. I am interested in a new "axe" The Vispukes Axe I've seen on youtube video they run ~200 imported to US. He uses a tire on splitting stump to prevent logs from flying off. Seems very efficient Anyone have one? I'm 29 and slinging a 20lb maul still straightens my back out

Gimmy is right. Dirt and contamination in your hydraulic oil will break down the seals inside the cylinder and valves that hold the oil in the right places.

Hydraulic force is very powerful but not "intelligent"!! It will always follow the path of least resistance.

You may have a bypass in your system or internal leak. If you need any additional help, post a question in our hydraulic repair forum...we would be glad to help with any individual problems.

Here is a link that might be useful: Akron Hydraulic Repair Forum

Yes I am totally agree with the "Don" view because in past year I also have this kind of problem with my log splitter but after when I put my logsplitter greater angle with respect to pump low then the pressure is automatically maintained

Here is a link that might be useful: Log Splitter

I had a similar problem with the small bore pump on my manual hydraulic log splitter from Harbor Freight. Lost almost all pressure on only that one side. The problem was the “small pump washer” that holds the small steel ball in place. The washer somehow became warped / domed instead of flat. I intended to replace it, but I couldn’t find one thin enough at the hardware store. As a “Hail Mary,” I reinstalled it with the opposite side facing in, and the machine worked fine after I topped off the oil and bled the air out. I plan to order new washers and O rings from Harbor Freight for future repairs.

I have had my fun modifying a Log splitter given to me that appeared to be modified from a Manual Hydraulic Splitter. I modified from to what you will see attached. Not having splitting experience I d/n think much about Guiding the Ram to “Push Straight”. The cylinder leaked at the One Year Warranty Date. I took it back as requested and watched the tear down and inspection. To me it was obvious wear from the Ram not having guides to help travel straight.

Again they wanted to instruct me on how to do the repair. I felt safer having the job done by them again. All has worked well approx 10 years. Plus, I feel I have looked at enough YouTube’s and seen enough Repair Kits advertised online that I feel I could rebuild the Cylinder if needed. My Related Experience is I have Rebuilt too many Small Combustion Engines (VW’s to no end and 3-4 V-8 Engines 1968- yearly).