Right, running lean. Due to the EPA Dolmar had the specs at 14300 RPM to meet the emissions when these saws should be set at 13700 or so. A good dealer would have adjusted that. Steve

Not quite sure what you mean by dia(meter) enorth.

I would definitely put a limit on the larger is better part. Most people can do all they need with a 16" ~50cc saw. If they have bigger stuff and are occasionaly users, the most I would recommend would be a 60-70cc saw with a 20" bar. After that, I think they should put a little more effort into working a saw before going to get an 80+cc saw.

Look for something light with a bar that could do most of what you want to do. I'd put light ahead of bar for everything. My best example is that I have an acquaintance that was just telling me this weekend about the nice Stihl that he has with a 24" bar he thinks. He likes the saw but doesn't like using it. He can only use it for 1/2 hour before it has tired him out. He was not sure what saw he had but my guess is that it is the MS390. He wishes he had something smaller and lighter because he very rarely needs all 24" of his bar.

A zippy 50cc saw with 16" bar is the most likely sweet spot for most homeowners.

I have a friend who owns a Chainsaw shop , he caries what he considers to be the top three brands , Husqvarna ,Stihl , and Echo. His personal saw is a Husky. I cut with three friends who all run Stihl. No comparison the Husky runs at a higher rpm , which spins that blade faster , which cuts more wood!

And as soon as you lean on smaller Husky saws they die where slighty lower RPM saws keep cutting. Steve

Yeah Steve, TORQUE

The better goes to husky. Higher rpm cuts quicker husky runs better with rich mix. Just a great tough saw.

It is funny Husky use to be a decent saw I have one and I barely used it over the 20 years I have had it, that being said getting any kind of replacement parts is difficult. The local Dealer orders what they think is the right part and when it arrives it is not. They seem to have had 3 or 4 different versions of the 45 in about 4 or 5 years and they can't use the serial number as a means to get and order the right part. I am also seeing Husky's in Lowes that tells me that they dropped the cost for them to sell them, most Stihl's are not sold at many big box stores more smaller dealers here in Michigan but from what I have heard Stihl is the way to go. It is funny I contacted Husky about gettinga good parts list for mine before thinking of buying a new one, mine might have 100 hours use on it and Husky reply your saw is too old and we don't provide parts lists to customers so you can have the number when your saw goes down. then they said it is time you buy a new saw yours is 20 years old. Looks like they have gone to the "throwaway" mentaility. Must be because one less saw they have to carry oarts for in the future. back 20 years ago you could get parts and good service that seems to be a thing of the past these days. I am hoping Stihl stands behind their saws... Before I buy one I am going to ask for a parts list so over time if I do need any parts I have the number so the Dealer can cross reference the part number if it does change like Husky's seem to do often...

MikeM

There's no question that Stihl dealers are more professional as a whole. Walk in a box store and the best support you'll get will be from a 20 yr. old college kid that barely knows how to run the choke. That buy itself puts them above the rest. Performance can change by any number of factors (chain sharpness, chain type, fuel, sprocket size, comparing comparable saws, etc.). Good dealer support knows the "ins & outs" of the equipment they sell. Commonly found among Stihl dealers. If you're lucky, you can find a dealer that sells both Stihl & Husqvarna and they can show you the way to 2 lines of professional saws. Box stores typically don't handle a "pro" line, just a consumer series.

Given the choice of Stihl or Husqvarna, I think that it's the dealer service that'll make the difference. Where I live, the dealer that everyone I know uses has a Stihl factory-certified technician on staff who cut his teeth racing 20,000 rpm go-karts. Turns out he owns a Stihl MS 260, so that's what I bought, since I was looking for a 50 cc saw. Has 45 hours on it right now and runs great. OTOH, if this dealer had a Husqvarna-trained tech instead, I'd probably own a Husky 346 XP and would be perfectly happy with that.

I would never choose a Stihl tool again.
I can�t understand the postings here,where people praise the service and obtainability of Stihl spare parts.
These postings must be from Stihl itself,because my experience is absolutely negative,in view of Stihl service,obtainability of information and spare parts.
I have brought two chain saws for reparation.
The older one�s spare part took 6 weeks to arrive.The reparation did not succeed,and I never saw the machine again.
The new one I bought,gave within a forthnight trouble.
Back to the shop,and got two days later a box with all parts,and a shoulder shrug,on my question."What can be done?"
-Reason of faillure could be too little lub oil in fuel,so no garantee.This I must accept,because own fault.
Since then,I have tried to get the necessary spare parts in 8 different countries,without succes.
The nearest I got,was a shop,that advised me to buy a new chain saw,because the spare parts would be more expensive than a new tool...
Very interesting is the fact,that all mail,that I have send to various European importers of Stihl,are answered by my own countries Stihl importer,who keeps on referring me to his local dealer.(For personal reasons I don�t want to do Stihl-bussiness in this small village)
My advise for new buyers of garden- and other proffesional tools is:"Make a wide birth around Stihl" !!!!
No service,no advise.Spare parts badly obtainable,and if you want to do a repair yourself,Stihl obstucts you getting the needed spares!

Sounds like the original saw was older than you are,
but who can say, as you give no details.

George, as Fish has said without more information within Model or Year Designations were pretty well up the proverbal creek without a paddle . Must say though that Stihl usually has one of the finest Service Centres available witha Great Networking , at least within North America. I �m fortunate locally I have both Husky & Stihl Dealers at one location and college`s who run the same in Michigan. As for your newest saw any uit will fail if not maintained . I have numerous Finish friends locally that use Stihl and Husky while were at Moose Camp . Forward some further info and perhaps we can assist you .

I hear more stories about bad or horrible service from Stihl shops from my sawing customers . They don't get the problem fixed and charge a arm and leg. Steve

Can't speak for the Minnesota area Steve , only have frequented shops within Michigan , Ohio and Ill. within the US . Have frequented numerous within Ontairo Canada Southern to Northern areas . As previously mentioned have friends that operate Stihl / Husky Dealerships so i guess I could be biased . I have not heard any horror stories from personal experience within workmanship or quality of service , rather the high associated prices of repair which are a sign of the times . We will have to see if George is serious enough to supply further info within his concerns .

Just a couple of the most recent ones

A old guy I sawed for has a fairly new MS230 that was lacking power. The first Stihl shop put in a new plug and tuned it for $80 and it still didn't have any power.
The second Stihl shop did the same thing for $60 and still no power. He cleaned the muff screen himself and it ran good after spending $140.

Just last week I'm helping a guy with a 028 Super that had no power, he had it to the dealer twice to the tune of $100. It took me 2 minutes to set the carb right and it's been running good all week. More stories if you want, It's hard to find a good dealer of almost any brand any more, saws, cars , trucks , tractors etc. For you young guys learn how to work on a saw yourself, it's not hard and you'll be proud of yourself. Steve

Steve: I will take you at your word , since I know you have experience within saws. It's scary to hear that there are such incompetent or criminal Dealers out there. I have on ocassion over 50 yrs recieved less than stellar service or what I considered pricy service . This is the main reason I began at a rather young age doing my own tuning and repairs. This back in the Moto-Cross / Enduro days.
I have heard numerous stories of Shabby Service within auto , marine , snowmobile , but so far have experienced rather fair pricing and parts within my areas . Rather sad that these ethics or lack of working knowledge has spread within the saw nitche :( . Interesting and enlightening Thanx !

Quote:"fisher40037 (My Page) on Wed, Jul 27, 11 at 21:00

Sounds like the original saw was older than you are,
but who can say, as you give no details. "

@:Mr.Fisher,I don�t know,what your message is supposed to attribute to my posting about very bad service and customer-unfriendly treatment by the Stihl-concern.

It makes no difference,if my saw is 30 years old,or brand new.
When I need spare parts,I expect them to be available.
But Stihl obstructs systematically the availability of spare parts to private customers!
They take months,to obtain,and whenever available parts are sky high expensive..

About experience with all kinds of chain saws:My son has a fire wood business,and a brother-in-law has woods.
I do a lot of work for them,so I know my way around certain kind of tools and brands!Fr.gr.George

My 17yr old Husqvarna 51, with a 24" bar died. I only cut 4 or 5 cords a year plus some debris clearing. I like a 24" bar - don't have to bend over. Average rounds, usually from blow down, are 18/20" or less with an occasional 24" or so. It got fuel, bar oil and bar sprocket grease. Occasionally, more like rarely, replaced a fuel filter, plug, and cleaned the air filter. Never messed with the carb. I didn't baby this saw, I just used it. What do I want to look at?

Joel : Since your a Newbie we will give you a break and not whip you to Bad !

1st giving more info as to what the unit is doing or the last time your ran it would benefit . I can only assume from your note that you simply cannot fire the saw up .
Have you check for adequate fuel ? How about bright blue spark accross the sparkplug electrode when removed and properly grounded and pull cord utilized ? See what I mean you need to give adequate info for people to try to ascertain your situaton. If your plug is dry after priming and choking with fresh fuel mix then perhaps your fuel filter is plugged (you said rarely cleaned ?) . Secondary the fuel circuits if ethanol fuel is used without proper storage procedure are most likely restricted. Carb cleaning with tag wire and carb cleaner and compressed air is in order. The Inlet needle (under diaphram) or the inlet screen within the carb also could be gummed up . Last but not least if no or weak spark is evident spark plug or plug wire or on/off switch could be faulty or worst case scenerio ignition module has failed. Hope this is of some help with the limited symptoms that you have supplied . Feel free to enlighten us further Dude !

Hmm. Sorry I led you astray. My saw is dead. A couple hundred buck fix maybe for cylinder, piston and related stuff and it would be running. But it's not worth it I don't think on a tired 17yr old saw. When I said "what do I want to look at" I meant in the way of a new saw. Husqvarnas 455 maybe or whatever Stihls equivalent is? Or is the smaller Stihl 50/60cc stuff not up to snuff?

Roflmbo ! Ok now were on the same page no harm no foul !

If you liked the handling charateristics of the Husky 51 you might be interested in the New Rancher 460 . I personally just picked one up for my Son as a back up 6 mths ago. Built on a solid chassis and a capable fire wood (Hardwood) 63 cc cutting unit .
We also have a Husky 348 XP and a Stihl MS-260 both 50cc Pro Class limbing Units . Also you could go with the Echo or Efco Manf with a 400 or 152 Model . Personally not knowing how hard you are on your unit , I would probably go with the 460 as the best saw for the $$ for a weekend wood saw. Second would be the Echo for all around performance and again bang for your buck .

Georgevan, you still give absolutely no details!

I am not a defender of Stihl, but with no details at all,
how can anyone give your posts any credence???

Fish

@Fish:
I have no idea,to what kind of details you are referring to.

I have a very bad experience with the obtainabiltity of spare parts for my Stihl chain saw.
I tried through the whole of Europe,and even wanted to pay the exorbitant high prices,the shops asked.
But one after the other found strange excuses yust not to deliver...
I have the idea,that Stihl systematically obstructs customers to buy spare parts.
And I want prospective buyers to take this into account.

If it takes 6 weeks,for a simple membrane to arrive at the shop,where your Stihl saw is being repaired,and if it is impossible to obtain spare parts,for a brandnew Stihl
MS 192 C,there must be something wrong,with the way Stihl thinks to execute its bussines.
I might also point out the fact,that I sign with my own name.
People concerned know,who posts these critics,and are allowed,to comment!

George: I find it hard to believe that within the entire UK you cannot find diaphams for Stihl Saw on the shelf ? If not then within 2-3 day delivery . I would think that everyone would be aware that after the Sale Service is what keeps Dealers in Business. Warranty work at time and a half or more when authorized pays dividends . Having spare chains , sprockets , air filters or carb kits is the meat & potatoes of any Service Dealer. Now if your complaint was the cost of Parts not their availibility I could easily understand your issue with Stihl. Unfortunatley OEM Parts are not cheap for any Manufacturer these days. As ladylake has advised , I can believe the lack of Stellar workmanship in certain areas for whatever rational , but no parts availability ? Hell how do they stay in bussiness in Europe ? Thank God I live in the Great White North where you get what you pay for lol :)

I have a Stihl MS 360. What a piece of crap! I thought it would be my last saw. It replaced a Husky 65, bought 35 years ago, which never failed to start after 3 pulls and ran like a race car. The Stihl needs at least 5-10 pulls to ignite. Once it starts its pretty good. I run a 28" bar with a skip link chain. Today I tried to cut some dead Madrone. Saw started on first pull! What? After that not a thing. Sporadic spark. Bull sh@t spark plug wire design. Bullsh#t access. My husky NEVER saw the inside of a repair shop. Unfortunately I gave it away and it still runs beastly. I'll never buy a Stihl product again!

Thankfully I have both Stihl and Huskys that run like champs lol .

Most saws without a primer bulb will take 5 to 7 pulls to start if they've been sitiing for a while and should fire in 3 pulls if just sitting overnite. If the low adjuster id just a bit lean they will start hard. Steve

FWIW, I have had nothing but good experiences with any Stihl that I've owned and the few times that I needed parts that were not on the shelf took 2 days to get in. As for high pricing, I find that its Husqvarna that a bit high where its pro models are concerned.

Hello everyone, I'm new here but an old timer and this will be my first post. This has been a very interesting read and I gather that there are no conclusive choices- like someone said "ford/ chevy". I just wanted to throw in my 2-cnts.
I have a husky 61 which I bought new in '81 and have been cutting with ever since. GREAT saw as far as I'm concerned, it has never been to the shop- not once- just haven't had the need- no breakdowns. The first winter cutting was with a friend who had a contract to deliver 100 cord to dallas, tx. He started off this project with a new stihl (don't remember the model but it was @ the same size saw as mine). Anyway it craped out on his third tree- the dealer said it was improper fuel mix- NO F&^@#$! warranty. the fuel mix had already cut down two other trees with no trouble? WTH
We went to my husky dealer and he bought a husky 61. He is still happy with this saw as I am with mine.
Now I don't cut but @ 30 cord a year for family but this saw is a reliable beast. By the way I run a 20" roller tip with a rim sprocket. A little heavy maybe for the avg. homeowner but not bad.
After reading @ the parts problem with stihl I thought I'd check on parts for my saw and guess what- I can still get every part: cyl., piston, bearings/seals, crank/ connecting rod, even the screws, bolts and cosmetics. I think that's pretty good for a 30+ year old saw. Most are fairly priced also. So I guess I'll stick with the husky for now.
Sorry for the long post and I just noticed that this is a old topic from last year. Oh well- TIMBER!!!

Well I'll never boast about any of my equipment ever again!
Today I removed the clutch/ sprocket assembly from the Husky 61 to adjust (increase) the chain oiler. Then reinstalled the sprocket/ clutch and tightened it to 20 lbs. Before putting the bar and chain back on, I fired the saw up to check the chain oil volume flow. Suddenly the clutch and sprocket came flying off. Needless to say I was pissed and have spent the last 6 hours looking for the parts in a yard full of leaves- have only found two of the clutch dogs so far. I've been using a metal detector for over a year now so I thought it would be the fastest way.
My yard is about 85' wide with chain link fence on both sides and I have detected nearly all the area. Anyone have any idea how far the sprocket/clutch may have traveled in the air before hitting the ground?
Also can anyone tell me how tight the clutch should be since apparently 20 lbs torque was not enough.
Thanks for the help on this one.

Always have the bar and chain on and cut some wood right away , that will tighten the clutch if you didn't get it tight enough. I've done the same thing. Steve

Wow ! Time sure does fly by . Forgot about this old Post . Don't own the MS-260 any longer but have purchased a Big Bore Dolmar and a CS-500P Echo Screamer recently . Have 8 Cord of Maple Split and neatly Piled for later this winter along with over 200 lbs of Venision to cut smoke and wrap lol .

Thanks Steve, appreciate the advice. I have been able to find the clutch hub, two of three dogs (weights) and the tension spring. The spring is toast but I have found one on e-bay for $5.oo (new)- not to bad. Still need to find that other dog though. pita.

Great discussion. I'm in New Zealand and have been a happy Stihl owner for 18 years. Details later.

I mainly use an 066 which I love but it is a heavy beast. Am thinking about buying an MS211 for the lighter cutting work. I do have access to an old 009 but haven't tried it yet.

Any thoughts? Would the MS231 be a better choice bearing in mind that it is heavier and something light is important?

I have owned 2 Husqvarna rancher chainsaws and 2 Stihl 260 chainsaws. I dread using the Stihl chainsaws because Stihls are extremely hard to start. Iwear myself out pulling the starter cord before I even start cutting wood. My Husqvarnas start on the 1st or 2nd pull everytime. I would not trade my Husqsaws for anything. The stihls I would. I hate those saws.

2 things would make your 260 hard to start , the low adjuster set too lean and the choke not closing good.. Try opening the low adjuster about 1/3 turn, you might have to turn the idle speed screw in some. I think the choke is in the air filter and a mickey mouse setup, best to buy a new air filter.. Steve

I have used stihls and I have used Husqvarna's and the huskies are far better then the stihls. Huskies have never failed me and i use them almost 12 hr's days and the stihls with in the first 3 i always end up having problems out of..Go with Husqvarna for the money they will never fail you..

but if you are looking for a cheap good saw then go to ebay and buy you a blue max mine paid for it's self the 1st day i used it and the 2nd day was nothing but profit depending on which one you buy you can get one with a 14" bar and a 20" bar combo for around $180 or less and get it with a 3yr warranty as well and they do eat wood like Heck quicker then any stihl does and does pretty good and give the huskies a run for the money

I have a 32 year old Husky and two Stihls. Can't get the parts I need to overhaul the Husky so it's been retired. The Husky was always difficult to start, but ran well once started and warmed up. Oiler was the weak part on the saw and was replaced twice.

The Stihls seem to be sensitive to the type of gasoline used. They nearly refuse to start with gas that has ethanol. In fact, I used to dread trying to start them. I often pulled the sparkplug and squirted fuel directly in the cylinder to get them to fire cold.

To cure the starting problem, I started using Stihl MotoMix, or VP 50:1. That cured the starting problem but the fuels are expensive. To reduce the cost a bit, I purchased 5 gallons of Torco 100 UL and mix it with the Stihl oil,

The saws start on 4-5 pulls after sitting for 2-3 weeks, and will start on the first pull if they just sit a short time, like 1-3 days. My friend who runs Huskys commented that he'd never seen saws start that fast.

My suggestion to those complaining about Stihls being hard to start is to use better fuel, and make sure the gas does not have ethanol.

Stihl recommends 92 octane and my experience with the saws is that they work better with the higher octane fuels.

Will have a Stihl 461 to add in to my other two saws within about 4 weeks and expect it will run as well as the two that I currently own.

In reality, it comes down to dealer support and the Stihl dealer I use is 7 miles from my house, has most parts in stock, and can get whatever I need from Stihl in 3-5 days (they order parts once a week).

Husky, Jonsered (Red Husqvarna), Dolmar, Stihl - all good saws - to me it comes down to the dealer - although the Stihl bars and chains seem to be better than factory equipment from other manufacturers.

I find all this discussion about the importance of the dealer curious. Unless a guy is mechanically helpless or doesn't want to spoil his manicure what do you need the dealer for except the original purchase? Consumables like spark plugs, carb kits and chains are available from online sellers. Anyone familiar with 2-stroke engines can diagnose malfunctions.

Dealers refuse to make any performance enhancing engine modifications. For example they are not allowed to substitute adjustable carbs for factory installed non adjustable ones. That job is easily accomplished by a home mechanic. When I made that conversion over 10 years ago on my Stihl 026 starting and power delivery were vastly improved. I found the adjustable carb on ebay because the local Stihl dealer refused to sell it to me unless I brought the saw to him, he verified that the saw was originally equipped with an adjustable carb AND he installed it.

A guy named "Butch" (is he still here ?) told me that I'm subject to a $25,000 fine for making that conversion. No, I'm not making that up.

The original poster can chose a consumer or pro quality saw based on his intended use and then chose a Stihl or Husky based on which in a given size performs best at the cash register. It's worth remembering that the official Stihl corporate policy is to sell parts only through "authorized" dealers but those parts are abundant from online sellers. Husky doesn't play those games.

My personal land clearing and firewood cutting Stihl 026 has been working hard for me since 1999 and still rips. When I pull off the muffler to clean it and look at the piston through the exhaust port the piston still looks nearly new with not a trace of scuffing and the hone marks are still visible on the cylinder bore. Those must be some quality parts.

When it became hard to start a couple of years ago a carb kit for the swapped-on adjustable carb bought from an online seller solved that problem.

I's suggest finding the best price and don't worry about relying on the dealer unless you don't want to get your hands dirty occasionally. But how many guys with chain saws are against getting their hands dirty?

Ray

If you have the tools and knowledge of two stroke engines by all means do it yourself. However, you still need the dealer for warranty service if required and thanks to Mr Nader and his merry band of zealots special equipment is now needed to troubleshoot and repair. The dealer also has the latest service information. That is why my newest saw is 30 years old. I have also found from experience the internet is not always the most cost effective or reliable source, aftermarket parts are often over priced and poor quality..

Regarding modification at the dealer level, you are absolutely correct. Liability is a huge issue. He is handcuffed by strict emission laws, he can be fined $3700 dollar for selling you a carb adjusting tool. I call b.s.too but that is the way it is.

I have a 1977 Stihl 041 Farmboss. When I bought a the saw, I would cut a cord of white oak , load it into the pick up with 4' sides, and drive it home 25 miles before clocking in at "Yahd for the second shift.. I never had any trouble with the saw. It has a 16 " which is plenty big enough for 99% of the trees I've cut with it. Even that 1% was carved down with a little extra cutting. I like the Stihl because I can always start it , even on 2 yr old mix ,on the original ignition and a Champion plug of unknown provenance. Ive patched the die cast case with straps, rivets and JB Weld. It doesnt have a chain brake, Instead ,about 25 yrs ago, I lost the throttle stop screw. It will die unless my finger is on the trigger. Doesn't matter it will start on the first pull.. I have worn out 2 starter dogs though. An easy R+R of a 10$ part. It is spec'ed for a 40:1 mix. I have run an oily 32:1 since day one. I just run hardware store oil. Never have fouled a plug or clogged a muffler. I run it full throttle when cutting Its been a great all round saw.

"I's suggest finding the best price and don't worry about relying on the dealer unless you don't want to get your hands dirty occasionally. But how many guys with chain saws are against getting their hands dirty?"

"Anyone familiar with 2-stroke engines can diagnose malfunctions."

Maybe - maybe not. The new saws have lot of electronics, including electronic ignition modules, self adjusting carburetors, etc.

Has nothing to do with "getting your hands dirty" - and everything to do with parts availability and diagnosing problems past old style 2-stroke motors.

Buying parts off of the Internet is an iffy proposition in many cases as the manufacturer will often update the part - and that includes a new part number to distinguish it from the old part number. That's one of the reasons Stihl insists on selling parts only through authorized dealers - to make sure the customer actually gets the correct part.

As and example - I have a shredder / blower that was put away in October, and when I pulled it out in January it refused to start. Had gas, had spark - no start. Took it to the dealer at 8:30 AM. Came back at 12:15 PM and he said, "Here's your blower, it needed an updated ignition module." Total cost? $0.00. Dealer said, "You bought it from us - no charge to fix it."

That's why I continue to buy equipment from that dealer and why I think a good dealer is an important component of the equipment purchase - I get good support from the dealer, they help me keep the equipment running. Less down time, for me, is important.

If you have want to futz around and piddle away time waiting for parts to arrive from Internet purchases - fine. Not everybody has that mindset.

Husky's and Stihls are both great saws, no doubt about it. I've been cutting firewood for 30 years and selling it for 20 years. My personal preference is Husky. I run 2 saws while cutting firewood. A Husky 350 with an 18" bar for smaller branches, trimming and slash and a Husky 460 with a 24" bar and a skip-tooth logger's chain for the bigger stuff. One of the main reasons I prefer Husky over Stihl is honestly the anti-vibration in the Husky's. It's just a little better on a Husky. When you're running a saw for 6-8 hours a day, it makes a huge difference. Both saws are great and the top saws in the world. I've got logger buddies who will swear Husky is better and others who swear Stihl is better. I honestly believe you won't know for sure until you run both. It's all about personal preference. Se people like Ford's, others like Chevy's, and still others prefer Dodge. I've cut hundreds if not thousands of cords of hardwood, (oak, maple, locust, elm, pinion), as well as softer wood, (ponderosa, fir, grey and blue pine), with my saws and never had to do more than filters and lugs in them and they both still run great. And what I'll tell everyone that thinks that because, Husky's are available at box stores like Lowe's, they are an inferior saw, you are mistaken. The biggest Husky saw I've seen at Lowes is a 350, which is about the biggest saw you'd want for small things like home landscaping. You will NOT find Husky professional saws at Lowe's. I've seen Stihl's at Home Depot, but only small home owner models. I own a small Stihl MS210 with a 14" bar that works great when I'm trimming back the trees in my yard. I actually found it in the dirt while cutting firewood in the western foothills of the Sierra's. It looked like it been there several months in the spring, which is the rainy season of the Sierra's. I primed it and pulled about 7 times and it fired right up with a little spitting and sputtering, I adjusted the high-low and now she runs great! But I only use around the yard as it's too small to cut firewood. But it is a great saw. The best advice I can give anyone looking for a new saw, find some friends that have a Husky and a Stihl and try them yourself. You'll find your personal preference and will be happier than just buying something without trying. Most people test drive a car before they buy and you should do the same with a saw as well. For those of you that don't know, Husqvarna is the parent company that manufactures McColluch, Poulon Pro (which makes saws and other small gas powered items for Sears-Craftsman), and the now defunct saw company Johnesred (which in my opinion, was one of the best saw company's ever!), as well as some other smaller brands you may or may not have heard of.

FYI... Jonsered is still in business. I've used them, very good saws. My favorite is Stihl. But, to each their own.

Jesse Stone seemed to prefer Husqvarna.

rgreen48... I didn't know Jonsered was still in business. I know that they were bought out buy the company that once owned Husqvarna. Everything I've looked up on it says they're no longer in business. Do you know who sells them or if there's a website to go to? I'd love to have another one. I sold the last one I had in about 1994 or 95 and have regretted it ever since. Thanks for the info!

Hey rj, Just click the word 'Jonsered' in my comment above and you'll go straight to their website.

When I was younger (and maybe why I sometimes feel so old now lol) I worked behind a hydro ax cutting the stumps down to 2" under high voltage lines. It was some of the toughest work I've ever done. I used a Jonsered. It ran at very high rpms, and zipped through everything. It was also a bit lighter than the Stihls of the time - which was nice when you're bending down all day. This was back in like '89 - '90 or so.

The controvercy continues . Which Saw manufacturer is the Best ! My 2 cents ... Echo Dolmar Husky , Stihl in that order due to Quality of Construction , Availibility , Service Credibility . Have cut wood for over 50 yrs with over 10 different Saw Manufacturers and have found each has it niche , the owner should 1st identify his needs and then find a Local Dealer and test a few different Manufactuers Models then decide which unit best serves his needs....aka Ewalk .