IâÂÂm not seeing a list of steps to start, youtub or owners manual online. Please list the steps you are using and maybe someone will see the step you are missing

That's just it. I google'd a youtube video and it seemed fairly easy to start it. I don't have an actual step list but here is what i have tried:

1) Prime about 10 times (the little bulb)
2) switch the cold start choke (closed)
3) pulled about 5-6 times (full pulls)
4) switched to run position on choke (open)
5) pulled 5-6 more times

No luck! Tried this several times.

I did check the spark plug and it was wet. I may need to prime less. The blower is about a year old. All fuel lines and prime bulb look to be in great condition.

If you are seeing a good blue spark from the plug. Try less prim or half tsp prime to get a pop as itâÂÂs ready to run. Two cycles are challenging. My blower is a Weed Eater from the 80âÂÂs. The fellow was so tired of it and gave it to me for 15.00 after showing me it runs. It still runs good with the proper sequence starting.

Fresh fuel or treated stored fuel. I treat all my fuel with Stabl to last a yr

If you set up a trouble light, with an incandescent type bulb, to gently warm the carburetor and intake manifold, for about an hour, it should start right up for you. You will have to check up on this arrangement every 5 minutes to be certain that you are not overheating anywhere. The idea is to gently warm the parts up to 80 degrees F, or so, without overheating them and starting a fire.

1. What other maintenance or etc did you perform after the purchase? Did you use it before this before started?

2. I never considered your Weather conditions. What temps are you working in?

3. I feel something has occurred since the purchase or different operators steps that the previous owner would spot. Have you considered giving him a call or dropping by?

4. Other Tips:

5. Do you fill you are pulling as strong/fast/hard as the P/O?

6. Have you tried to start w/o the air filter off? Have you ck that choke is choking. Have you tried manual ý tsp prime and not choking.

7. We are missing something! What quality of blower is it (low/mid/pro)? Have you ck the compression or feel good compression?

Oops! Post a good close Pic of the Carb that will show fuel lines and any others that might show a problem.

I haven't been able to start it since I bought it. No maintenance has been performed by me.

The weather out here is in the 50s and 60s. The purchase wasn't local so I can't just stop by which is a problem.

I am pulling pretty strong and fast. I will have to give it a another try this weekend.

I have not tried to start it without the air filter. The choke is definitely choking. I can see that. I have not tried the 1/2 tsp prime process. May give that a try if all else fails.

The main purpose of the priming bulb is to remove the air from the lines between the tank and the carburetor. Some times even after priming 10 times there is still air in the lines. Since the fuel lines are small it only takes a small bubble to prevent fuel flow.

If there are clear plastic lines watch for air bulbs as you push the priming bulb.

Also when priming let the bulb come clear out, push it in quickly and then take you finger off and let it relax.

If it is causing flooding there is something else wrong, as it is designed not to flood the engine, but to remove air from the fuel delivery system.

In one of your earlier posts, you mentioned not having the start checklist. Echo has the manual available on line. Page 15 has the cold start procedures.

Here is a link that might be useful: Operatorâs Manual PB-250LN

Question for you guys. I unscrewed the spark plug and left it connected to the cable to see if I would see a spark when I pulled the cord. I see no spark. Is this normal or is the spark plug shot?

I also didn't notice any metal inside the spark plug wire boot. My trimmer, when the spark plug is pulled from the wire boot you can see some metal that fits around the spark plug when seated to pass current. Is that normal for the pb-250?

There should be a metal terminal inside the spark plug boot that connects to the spark plug. If that is missing, you'll never get any spark out of the plug. Also, when checking for spark, the base of the spark plug (threaded part) must be touching metal on the engine, usually the area right around the spark plug hole. You may need a jumper wire to ground the plug or get a spark plug tester - that might be easier. I also ran across a YouTube video that might help.

Here is a link that might be useful: How To Use A Spark Tester

This post was edited by txtom50 on Mon, Jan 20, 14 at 6:46

Not to sound obnoxious, but is the ON/OFF switch in the ON position. If it started for the original owner it should have started once you got it home unless you are leaving out some detail.

The switch is in the ON position as far as I can tell. It states STOP at the bottom of the switch so I moved the switch up.

I can see some grooves on the inside of the spark plug wire boot. It seems like the grooves are metal or at least that is what it feels like when I run a flat head screwdriver up and down. So should I see a spark if the spark plug is attached to the cable but removed from the housing when I pull the starter cord?

You should see spark if you have the plug grounded good âÂÂTo EngâÂÂs MetalâÂÂ. The Spark Tester is good and Cheap at local Auto Stores Etc vs Trucks With Tools. I like the idea of it verifying the plug is firing under compression inside the cyl (which does not always happen).

I am going to purchase a spark tester and a new spark plug. Can I leave the old plug in the case and attach the new plug to my tester? The tester I am looking to purchase simply tests the plug cable and not the actual spark plug as I was told inline testers do not always work well.

Would what I am trying to do be enough to test this?

1. You want to test for fire. Sounds like you will be making a continuity ck; an ohm meter will do that. Please post a.link to the tester you are referring to and IâÂÂll post an attachment or link to mine.

2. What is the rational of leaving the old plug in the case? IMO you want the new in to get a good ground or out grounded to get an easy spin

3. Did you look at the spark tester video above (mine is like it?

4. Do you have local hands-on help (mall Eng Shop or friends? Something is not right in your efforts IMO.

Good Luck! IâÂÂll hope to see some good results soon.