I put stabil in her at the end of the season and let it run a while. The machine did the same sort of thing right out of the box last season. After it's warmed up it's better but still not totaly smooth running there is a skip or sputter every so often. I got it at a steal last year at 30 or 40% off at the depot, but I insisted that I get one that was still in the box. It's not a big deal, I mean it never stalls and it does seem better after it warms up, but I thought it should run smooth. Maybe at the end of the season I'll have it checked out, but I'd rater fix it myself.

There's probably some contamination in the carb.

Funny..I get exactly the same thing with my Toro 1028LXE. The engine runs ok, but does have an occasional sputter that doesn't go away. Mine is also the Tecumseh and the blower is brand new. 1st run today. Since I bought it at a local shop, I'll bring it in and let them adjust it. I'm still running it on the gas they supplied in the tank. The sputter doesn't effect the performance, but it is irritating to hear it from a new machine.
Dave

I'm still thinking it's a breakin thing. I changed the oil and Plug last night and had the same issues, but today after she warmed up I took her out in the 3" fresh snow (hehe) and it did seem much better. Maybe it just needs to be broken in? This is only the 3rd time I used it. One thing that I'm sure needs adjusting is that after it's used for a few minutes it likes to ever so slightly want to creep backward when the drive isn't engaged. I read last year that this is some sort of belt tention that needs to be adjusted.

All things being equal it sounds like a carburetor adjustment problem. Running just a bit lean if there's no smoke when the sputter sputters and if there's a little smoke out the exhaust it's rich. Check that paper manual book, should have some fuel mixture instructions. Carbs don't need breakin. Engines aren't supposed to run bad just because they are new! Whatever was wrong last year is STILL wrong with it. Try the MANUAL, especially the manual that pertains to the engine...

DO ALL ADJUSTMENTS AFTER A TEN MINUTE WARM-UP PERIOD! It takes that long to warm an engine in the Winter.

after it is warmed up do you turn the choke all the way to the left?

Yes, I do. Where are the carb adjustments. There are no adjustments mentioned in my manual. At startup there is almost always a puff or 2 of smoke, but after that no smoke. I start with full choke, but after only moments it seems that it runs better with the choke off.

Starting with full choke is good. As the engine warms it requires a leaner mixture, less gas to air. Before working engine allow it to warm up so no choke whatsoever is needed to keep the rpm at operating speed. Is the sputtering:

A. During idle
B. Unloaded at full rpm
C. Or when the engine is under full load at full rpm?

Gettin' 'er narrowed down!

Always during idle, but after it's used for a while, it's almost gone.

Boy, I wish I could hear it. I have to say it sounds like a very minor carb adjustment. Is yours an L-head or is it the OHV Tecumseh? Probably the OHV... The interesting information is that once its warmed up it sounds like it is almost gone. My Ariens 1028 is 4 years old, like you, got it from HD. They did NOTHING to the machine, where a dealer would have tightened the belts, adjusted the carb, lubed it etc. So anyway, you should have received a set up manual, I would go through that and see if there are any adjustments to be made. If you don't have it, click on the link below, you can get it at Ariens. You will probably have to pull off the snow box off the carb, there you'll find the adjustment screws. Don't just start turning them or you'll have bigger problems than you've got now. Make marks with white out or something so you can get back to your original settings.

Here is a link that might be useful: Ariens Manuals

Wow thanks for the link, but the service manual isn't available.

I have a 11.5HP Tecumseh Snow King. I don't think there is
ANY adjustments. The EPA controls my life so I can't destroy mankind.

Maybe the barometric pressure changed after the storm passed? lol

Its probably something that you will end up just having to get used to. I have an old H-50 that does that, no matter how you adjust the carb. I've decided its just a little valve "spit", maybe just not sealing quite perfect. This engine has roughly 200 hours on it, so its definately broke in. Its done it since new, but has never really hurt anything, though I will admit its a little annoying.

I have a Tecumseh and it pops and snorts when it idles. That was the first thing I noticed when the guy delivered it and started it up. I was told that the new carbs run lean and there is no adjustment. Once it is digging in and throwing snow it runs fine. Don't worry about the occasional pop, etc when it idles. I'm pretty sure they all do that and its part of the low emissions thing that causes them to run lean.

My 9hp also pops/sputters at idle, but runs like a champ at speed in the snow. I was concerned when I first bought it, but now figure as long as it starts easy ( it does) and runs great at load, that's all that really matters for a snow blower.

Can anyone suggest a good gas additive that will help clean out the carb that is easy to find? I'd like to try it and see if it make sthe engine run smoother.

hi.. I have an Ariens 10M6D - 30ish years old. Yesterday it was running then just quit cold with a sputter.. and I could not restart it. I pulled the plug, held it against metal and saw no spark. I'm guessing its points/condenser.. anyone have an idea? She has fresh fuel and no blockages to the carb.

Make sure the kill switch is not accidentally engaged before you tear into the machine.

I would think points, condenser, coil might be a good place to start. I would replace them with an electronic ignition if you think the blower is worth keeping.

I've been told the modern version of my Ariens would cost about $1,500 bucks.. so I'm inclined to fix this one unless something is horribly blown. The kill switch is off.. I caved in and had the local Ariens dealer pick it up to take a look at it as I wont have the time to tear it apart. It hasn't been tuned up since I bought it 4 years ago.. although I've replaced the carb and muffler on it.. a belt and the inner tubes. Basically I'm about $200 into it.. and if it costs $200 to fix it's still cheaper than buying a new one.. time will tell.. I'll let you know what they say. Thanks for the advice - I will ask about the electronic ignition.

I dose all my OPE gas with Marvel Mystery Oil. Its an upper cylinder lube and helps combat carbon deposits.

Beerbelly,
I have the same machine and it runs smooth. My problem is that I have to wrestle with it to keep it going in a straight line. No matter how hard I try it wants to head off to the right. I've tried it with wheels locked and unlocked. I adjusted the skids so that both of them were the same and kept the scraper bar up by a quarter inch. I made two runs up the driveway today and had to give up because it was such a struggle to hold it straight. I gave up and got the little Toro out to finish the job. I sent an email to Ariens asking for help. If There is nothing wrong I will take it back to Home Depot and get my money back or look into a different machine.

Do any other Arien owners have this problem?

I have owned a snow thrower for 15 years, it had a Briggs & Statton engine , the only reason I replaced it was it started to need too much tender loving care, the pull string broke on it when I needed it I have owned a snowthrower for the last 15 yrs it broke down. I bought a 926001. It sputters ever since I bought it.Dealer say's This is normal for a tecumseh snow king engine, they even checked it out.It still sputters.This cannot be normal. .I thought I made a good choice in this purchase.My viking gave me good service for 15 years, most, not to mention it was getting on in years. That why I chose your company for my next purchase history , history ,history.I have always believed in you get what you pay for.This was a huge purchase for me.Please , could you let me know If what I have been going through is normal andcan you help me with my dilemna.If this situation can be remedied I would appreciate a response from you.

Please contact me at the above email address

Thanking you in advance for your response
Armand
HERE is their response
As the dealer said it is not out of the ordinary for the engine to what
I call Hunt especially when it is cold. When you start it up it will be
on full choke and as it warms up you cut back to 3/4, then 1/2, then 1/4
until it goes to no choke. Due to the emission control standards of
today the air to gas mixture is not adjustable. The engine is set up to
run in the cold weather and under a load. When you go to blow snow the
engine will operate fine and have its best power.

From: http@ariensweb.ariens.com [mailto:http@ariensweb.ariens.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2006 12:13 AM

>>I have the same machine and it runs smooth. My problem is that I have to wrestle with it to keep it going in a straight line. No matter how hard I try it wants to head off to the right. I've tried it with wheels locked and unlocked. I adjusted the skids so that both of them were the same and kept the scraper bar up by a quarter inch. I made two runs up the driveway today and had to give up because it was such a struggle to hold it straight.Did you check the tire pressure? They're usually overinflated from the store, and you may have a flat.

I'm glad I came across this discussion, because I too
have a snowblower with a 'Snow King' engine. It is on
a Husquevarna with a 7hp. Unless it is under load,
no matter what the speed, it skips a beat every so
often and is irritating to hear. I was going to
tear into it this year, but now know it seems to be
the 'nature of the beast'. I'm sure, as everyone
seems to agree, it is a fuel problem and is most
likely linked to an EPA lean condition. As long
as it doesn't stumble when under load, I will now
leave it alone. I'm just wondering if this lean
condition will cause problems down the road, such
as burnt valves.

"I'm just wondering if this lean condition will cause problems down the road, such as burnt valves."
----------
I wonder if using 89 octane as opposed to 87 would save the valves in a lean burning engine that is running hot?

I have a 2003 11.5HP Tecumseh OHSK. Idle is good and high speed is good. Never thought about running "in between" as the chute may clog.

I just bought a Toro 828LXE that is doing the same thing. The dealership said that they can run rough when it's warm out, and that you shouldn't use an ethanol blend in them. I wonder if colder, dense air affects the mixture somehow. I haven't had a chance to run it in weather colder than ~35 degrees. I need to wait until we get some snow to determine if it makes a difference or not, but from the sounds of it it doesn't.

I have a 1997 Toro 824 (Snow King/Power Shift). Mine does the same thing: an occasional "miss" at idle or full throttle until I engage the auger and put the engine under load throwing snow. Shortly after the auger is dis-engaged and the engine is no longer working hard, the miss will return. But no matter how hard you work the engine once under load, even to the point of almost stalling it due to overload, it never shows this symptom. I emailed Toro about it when I first got it and they said it was due to settings for lean-running due to emissions requirements. Before I wrote to them I tried new plugs, and set the carb adjustments to spec according to the manual. I never believed it was the gas because it did it using many gallons from mutiple sources.

My Ariens 824 with the Tecumseh engine does the same thing at idle but runs fine under load. The EPA is making all the small engine manufacturers reduce emissions in all the engines they sell. They do this by jetting the carbs to run lean to meet the EPA requirements. Since there are no mixture screws on the carb, unless you plan on taking your carb apart and replacing the jets, this lean will always be there.

Well it's good to know that it's common, if not annoying.

I can't help but think that running lean can't be good over time for the engine, but I admittedly don't know a whole lot about small engines.

"........................... but I admittedly don't know a whole lot about small engines."
------------------------
Neither does the EPA. Quality engineered smooth running engines is not their concern. Letting you know that they are in control is.

The EPA worries about small engine emissions but most of the pollution from engines come from diesel trucks and construction equipment. Inspections are a joke and a drain on the economy. Tens of millions of clean running cars get tested over and over every year wasting hundreds of millions of dollars. The EPA did a lot of damage to the small engine industry with those non adjustable carbs. Just about everything the EPA touches is cursed.

Many counties in the US have realized that pollution checks during car inspections are a waste and have discontinued them.

Agreed, 90% of emissions are generated by 10% of the sources, which are unregulated.

"The EPA did a lot of damage to the small engine industry with those non adjustable carbs."

The small engine industry did the damage to itself - they knew the mandates were coming and instead sat around complaining how the EPA is ruining their business. Honda, Kawi, etc most of the Jap mfg's got it right, they meet the low emissions standards and run fine.

Adapt or die - no different than the US auto industry in the 80's.

OP: Short of opening up the carb and enlarging the idle passages the engine will surge at idle reguardless of plugs or fuel used.

New cars have computers to tell you when the emissions are not working, thanks to the EPA. The computers can't tell you if the fuel pump is pumping the right pressure or the battery is dead. but, if your O2 sensor comes unplugged you get a Big CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. Computers could do much more than monitor emissions, but that would cut into the troubleshooting business and the hundred dollar hook up at the dealer.

The Fed government has their interests in mine not the working public. But they won't clean up their own back yard or stop the acid rain, the fed gov uses gasoline by the millions of gallons a day and guess who pays for that? the EPA fed government mandates don't kick in for 15 to 30 years, by then the northeast will be a like death valley.

American Big business could care less what we do or our penny complaints. All the care about is which country they can make there products in which will produce the most profits for the CEO and the company. After all that's why the hire CEO's to reduce labor, labor costs, boost the bottom line profit. As far as Japan, they have earned their make and they plan on keeping it in the forefront, where american mineset in the business world is thinking how he can get rid of his labor force and make his product with the slave labor of third world with no lieablities.

EPA is the one of the the worst managed divisions of the fed government. Just think if could get worst!!! And if the Demo's have anything to say about it will. After all it must be true Gore got the half of the peace prize. I like how all them left wingnuts want to control our life style but they want to just keep using up more resorces than 200 working stiffs. As the sad thing is we elected most of them cause of their pork producing ability

I have a 10.5hp Tecumseh Snow King that has always "spit" here and there when running full throttle and unloaded.

These engines are specifically jetted to run in the cold AND under load. Never so much as a hiccup when it's actually working.

it is normal for a small engine to sputter now and then because at idle there is very little airflow in the cylinder and the spark can be extinguished. listen to a harley idle and you will understand!

"it is normal for a small engine to sputter now and then because at idle there is very little airflow in the cylinder and the spark can be extinguished. listen to a harley idle and you will understand!"

that's simply not true...Listen to a Honda idle and that will prove it to you.

Harleys idle rough because both connecting rods are connected to the same crank pin instead of 180 deg opposed like most modern engines. Its done to produce that lumpy rough sound that all the Harley sheep love to hear....at the cost of performance.

Ok, I started the Ariens 9526DLE PRO today. it was in the low 30's
It starts without hesitation. When started it had to run with the choke at full or 3/4 and I have to play with it to keep it running. I drained the little bit of fuel that I left in there from last winter (ooops).

Now when I turn the machine to full throttle I can keep the machine at 1/4 choke and it will run all day long. If I change the choke either way it stalls.

Now when the machine is running it surges. The headlight gets brighter and dimmer (not the problem) the the rpm's go higher and lower. Could this be from the carb being gunky? Now I ran the machine for 30 plus minutes today to try and burn whatever was in there out. Unfortunatly it didnt get better. Is there a prduct anyone recommends to help clean out the carb if this is the problem.

I used this machine several times last winter and it ran great. Went through anything I put it against and begged for more. Best machine I have ever used. I just want her back into tip top shape.

Thanks,
Ken

Put some 'SeaFoam' in the tank. Your local auto parts
store should sell it.

Small petrol (gasoline) engine idiosyncrasies.

1.) It's not a BMW engine, expect a skipping idle.

2.) EPA recently forced small engines to conform to cleaner air requirements, and since your engine does not have an engine control module (ECM/ECU), it cannot compensate for any "roughness".

3.) No Virginia, it won't burn the valves: it's running at idle "lean", NOT under load in the "lean" mode.

4.) At higher altitudes, the engine will run "richer" because of lower air density. Honda advises at above 5,000 feet, new ("leaner") carburetor jets should be installed.

5.) Some small engine dealers suggest changing the gasoline grade (i.e., 87=> 89=> 91 octanes) or manufacturer (Chevron vs. Shell, for example) should be tried. Yes, ethanol addition will affect the smoothness (per Honda).

6.) All manufacturers and dealers STRONGLY suggest adding ONLY fuel stabilizer to all freshly-purchased gasoline. It does little good to use a container of petrol all season and then add stabilizer to it after it has been sitting around for a couple of months! As far as other additives, if you want to spend (waste) your money on "snake oil", that's your option.

7.) Colder air is more dense, has more air molecules "packed" into each liter (quart) of air. Thus REALLY colder air allows the engine to run "leaner", a higher air/fuel ratio. No harm will be done, since the air/fuel ratio does not change that significantly. The EPA "CO" reduction ("leaning out") of the engine is more significant here.

8.) If a skipping idling engine worries you, you could never be a race car mechanic! Worry about the big things, not the piddly little things, if you must worry.

Hi I have an old ariens snow thrower engine model # H60-75003D. Everytime I use it, it runs out of control in high idle with the choke on half. It starts on full choke but shuts off on open choke (Choke is off). What could be causing the problem? If I remove the carburetor from the engine to clean it, would it cause any harm if I pulled the cable off the carburetor that attaches to the gas tank? Any thoughts?

It sounds as though you are a bit unsure of things. You may not have to remove the carb. You could try a simpler approach. Your fuel should be less than a month old for starters. Second, the screw on the bottom of the carb will richen the mixture when turned out. You could try to change the fuel and open that jet 1/4 turn and see if you have improvement. If you are up for it, remove the lower bowl nut (main jet) and bowl. Clean the bowl, the small holes in the jet and run fresh fuel through until it reaches the carb.

My 9 horse Snow King on the Yardman does this though it isnt bad. Every Snow King engine I have used does this to some extent. Its like it is built into a Tecumseh to do that. It doesnt hurt anything and yes under a load it runs perfectly. Mine did surge quite a bit when I started it last fall. I put a few tablespoons of Gumout carb cleaner in the gas and that after about 5 minutes fixed the problem. A tip to everybody. Dont hurry the warmup process. I start mine and let it warm up for a few minutes before starting work. This simple little tip has saved me a lot of aggrevation. I do that with the 2-cycle Toro too.

This random 'hiccup' that these engines are experiencing
is effected by certain weather conditions. After a
recent snowfall I started my 6 Hp Snow King and was
warming it up when I noticed there was no 'hiccup'.
I ran it through all positions of the trottle and it
never skipped a beat. I don't know if it was humidity,
barometric pressure,temperature, or a combination of
all three.

Thanks to all for your comments. I have a 2008 ST927LE that "stutters" several times a min. load or no load. New gas, new stabilizer, new plug, dealer visits under warrenty, still sputters. My 30 yo Ariens 8 hp never did that. But it does run and throw snow great. Guess I'll put it on full and let it rip.........

My Tec has the same identified hiccup at idle at times . In my experience with the Snow King this is normal for the reason of design . I use fuel conditioner fresh gas and filter and plug . Under load there is no hesitation or miss apparent . I have tuned numerous Tec's and they all show the same tendency . Rich-in up the carb setting may reduce this but normally causes carbon issues during long term . I only have concern that the unit perform smoothly during load and that the plug colouration is proper . So in Short Yes just let her Rip lol :)

The choke control knob broke off right where it goes into the carb. Can this be replaced without replacing the entire carb?

I've got a 11.5 hp snowking that I have no complaints about (about 3 years old with EPA fixed-jet carb). BILL, I've done some carb work on this and believe I recall screws holding the choke plate in the shaft. Remove those and slide the plate out of its slot - I believe then you can replace the shaft without carb disassembly. Reason I've done carb work is because I made the mistake of not using stabilizer or draining fuel for the off-season. Next winter, would not start well or idle at all, surging at high speed setting (still threw snow though). Figured idle jet was plugged and removed it. Have to remove a plastic cap then unscrew the jet. No carb removal or disassembly required. Jet was plugged - used very fine pin (thank you wife's sewing kit) to clear it. Replaced and machine runs great - no hiccups or anything like that. Starts in 20-30 degree weather with no choke - just 2 pumps on the primer bulb and it's running.

Good day,
Got a Tecumseh Indian head engine on a homemade wood spitter.
Missing some info, but can you tell me what I have?
HM80 155186J S_ _ _ 288D.
From what research I have completed, it's a Horizontal Medium Frame 8 HP 19.5ci Piston Displacement.
Parts number 155186J. As some of the rust has taken some info, I guess two of the hashes are E and R, but guessed at the next _ and the possible 288D. Anyone want to take a shot at it finishing the info?

I too have an Ariens Snow Thrower with a Tecumseh engine. I am a mechanical schmuck -- my father was an aircraft mechanic and I picked up more than a few things from him in the past but by no means am I an expert when it comes to these little engines.

I have a kid that is a highly trained motorcycle repairman.

I have a brother who used to service Hueys.

My snow thrower ran like a top for 2-3 years -- no problems.

Two years ago it started to surge -- this problem progressively got a bit worse. My snow thrower use has been quite limited all things considered.

My first thought was the carburetor. My son and I disassembled the cowlings and detached the carb. Suffice to say it all looked like it was new. (it should have looked like new -- probably operated less than 20-30 times total).

Ian rebuilt the carburetor. New gaskets/seals. Net effect: Nothing changed -- nothing at all.

My brother suggested running straight sea foam (higher octane) -- this too failed to improve things a bit.

Then my brother suggested we spray gas (with a spritzer) on various areas on the assembly while the engine was running -- if the surging stopped, that would suggest there was an air leak. I told him he was certifiable -- spray gas on a hot manifold??? Well after much argument, we sprayed carb cleaner as previously suggested with the engine running and low and behold, the problem resolved -- temporarily. Spraying the front of the carburetor seemed to get the best results.

So it appears the problem is an air leak. Why would an air leak manifest over three years after purchase? An air leak will make an engine run lean.

Wonderful! Now I have one more issue to resolve. Where the heck is the air leak? (bangs head on the desk). Nope, I cannot identify this new phantom.

Sorry, I didn't solve your problem here but this is a real issue, it is not the choke, the carb, the old gas, or many other of the well intentioned suggestions. It is likely caused by an air leak.

Now if anyone can tell me how to identify this air leak I would be most appreciative and I suspect others might benefit from information of that nature as well.

I got a bad feeling that I will have to replace the entire carburetor -- just bet this is a manufacturing defect.

mjc

I had problem starting my new Ariens 28 snow blower. It will not start on my second use, the same day. None of the suggestion given from the manufacturer's customer service worked, they were all useless. The dealer wants to keep the machine for two weeks before taking a look at problem.

A local small engine repairer named King in my town came by and looked at it, EURIKA!. He pull the kill switch apart, and the engine started at the first try.

It worked for me,but the engine can only be turned off by reconnecting the wire/cable back. It is located under the carburator.The problem may be the on/off switch.