***" The only way I can crank her is when the battery is on full charge and I jump her with a positive clamp right on the 12v electrical starters bolt."***
Having done that, you have pretty well confirmed that the starter itself is good! But there might be several intermediate safety switches or interlock devices that could be preventing the starter from being operated when the key switch is turned to start. We will need some info about the tractor in question to diagnose the switches and interlocks. Those fall under the domain of the tractor OEM, not Briggs. Please post the full "technical model number" of the tractor from a decal or tag that can often be found near or under the operator's seat. Once we have that number we might be able to view an online schematic and be able to guide you through the steps in proper sequence. One generic thing you can do is to make certain the main fuse has not "blown".

I'm having similar problem with B & S Intek 440000 in Husqvarna lawn tractor. Main 20 amp fuse blows in first key position. If I unplug charging leads to engine, turn key on & replug the fuse blows. Tractor is just over 2 yrs old and has never missed a beat only requiring new battery 6 weeks ago.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Similar problem?
Then similarly you should do what I suggested more than 3 years ago to the original poster (anybody heard from that guy?).
***"Please post the full "technical model number" of the tractor from a decal or tag that can often be found near or under the operator's seat. Once we have that number we might be able to view an online schematic and be able to guide you through the steps in proper sequence."***

Thanks mownie for quick reply, details are as follows;
Model GTH2752TF Product No. 960410175-01
B & S details Model 44Q777
Type 1406-B1
Code100608YG

EDITED:
Link to OM below.

You mention charging leadS
There is only one charging lead.
You may have other connectors to the fuel solenoid, kill wire etc.

Terminal A1 provides power to/from the Voltage Regulator + fuel solenoid etc.

IF you have an OHM Meter, you might want to check the fuel solenoid and any other device connected to terminal A1 for a dead short. (with fuse disconnected)

Here is a link that might be useful: Owners Manual

This post was edited by bill_kapaun on Mon, Oct 7, 13 at 10:05

***". If I unplug charging leads to engine, turn key on & replug the fuse blows."***
Do you mean when you "replug" the charging leads? or when you replug the fuse?
And yes, as Bill states, only one of the wires is actually for battery charging.
What are the wire colors in the connectors you are separating? Give the answer as colors on engine side AND colors on chassis side of each connector.
Reason is so we can know the destination of the wires looking at the schematic.

I am referring to the only loom that connects to the engine by way of 6 pin plug, although only 4 pins are utilised, with a RED wire, GREY wire & BLACK wire.

Sorry, 4th pin is a RED wire loop.

As mownie said-
"Give the answer as colors on engine side AND colors on chassis side of each connector. "

What color on the key side connects to what color on the engine side?

Also refer to the schematic on page 29 of the OM.
The color codes don't exactly match, so you'll have to trace what color to what device and fill us in on what the substitutions are.
RED is most often your 12V feed.
Black is most often the kill wire. (grounded w/ key OFF)
Is your Gray really Blue? (faded)

OK, can you post a photo of the connector you are unplugging?
The charging wiring should be as follows for a 9 amp alternator:
One black wire coming FROM THE STATOR joins to one yellow wire going INTO THE REGULATOR, there will be GREEN connectors on the black and yellow wires where they join together.
The Regulator will have one red wire with a red connector that joins to the chassis harness (which carries the charging output to the battery).

It appears problem found, 'electronic fuel management module'.....hopefully to be confirmed when I find a new one to fit. So far I have not been successful, although will call on B & S tomorrow.

Good, please post the part number of said device and where you are able to obtain it.

Failed part No is 796350 although this has been superseded by 796350S. Still no luck in finding one yet, may be quicker to import as I'm in New Zealand.

Make sure you are searching using the correct part number.
I ran 796350S through the Briggs & Stratton web site and they show that number has also been superseded by part # 796352S.
I appears this item is an electric/electronic choke.

Finally all up and running sweetly as before. Fitted new EFM module #796352S. B&S had previous 2 superseded modules still in stock although I opted for the latest hoping that it was an improved version.
Many thanks for all your input.

Well all good for 5mths, just blown another fuel module. Hit reverse pedal and engine stopped. Must be some sort of voltage/amp surge. Does anyone have any ideas? Maybe faulty diode?

Finally nutted it out.... Electric clutch was giving back flash so fitted new EFM and diode soldered into clutch wires to protect. Diode was a 6 amp part no. ZR 1024

Oh geez.
I think I would be tempted to add a diode on the ground side of the EFM (module) as well.
Usually when an electric clutch snubber diode goes open, it results in short lived PTO switches.
When they go shorted, it usually blows a fuse, much the same as a shorted PTO clutch coil.

Thank's for that mownie, I knew there was a reason why I purchased 2 diodes :-)

Are wiring diagrams available for the EFM module itself?

Not unless Briggs will furnish one to you.

And the chance of that mownie, would be near zilch....but my problems are all over as I have just taken delivery of my new Husqvarna GTH3052TDF. And there is no EFM module in sight, it has a manual choke!!!!!!! Funny how I could not get any info off B & S re problem yet they make a change to spec.

Still having probs even with new ride on Husqvarna GTH3052TDF) hard to start, lacks power and runs hotter than old machine. Temp on oil filter getting up to 220F and this model has oil cooler which shows very little difference between inlet & outlet pipe temp. Anyone out there able to offer any advice. Service agents here are next to useless and just want problem to fix itself!!

Sounds like the ign. timing is off.
That would only happen if the flywheel key was sheared.