Your note about 2 cycles is an indicator that a good oil that has fuel stabilizer in it may be your friend. What is believed is that treating the fuel when it is purchaced, keeping the container sealed and out of direct sunlight will get you further than anything. Do not use fuel with greater than 10 % alcohol to start with.
Back to the fuel valve. Installing a fuel valve is not a bad idea. Know that fuel will remain in the carb even once the engine was "run dry". What has been also seen is the higher alcohol fuels deteriorate the rubber/ viton materials at a much quicker rate. There are are metal shut offs available as well. I'm sure that they have rubber type sealing componants also. I put on a ton of the Briggs kits and don't have issues with them. 698183 is the part #.

I've wondered about "running the engine dry" and if really got all the gas out of the carb. Been doing it for over 40 years at end of season. Course the gas then and now are two totally different animals.

Thanks for the Briggs part number. I checked and the local Briggs dealer I use has them in stock for $4.99. think I'll pick up a couple.

Thanks Tom!!

Ev

Almost all of the gas is used up and the rest will evaporate through the vent hole from the heat of the engine or in a few days.

I use Startron in my fuel. Last Fall I mixed 2 gallons and it still looks good 6 months later.

I think the Ethanol "problem" may depend a lot on what part of the country you live in. AZ may have more trouble than Maine for instance. I generally have not taken any special precautions though I did drain the tanks and run the 2-cycle stuff "dry" this last fall. I have one 50 year old tractor that I only use once a year and never drain. It started with 3 - 4 pulls last Wednesday, yes it has an old rope pulley Wisconsin on it. Rolled the lawn with it.

Walt Conner

I use the shutoff valve every time I'm done using the OPE.
I mix a rich 32:1 mix for all my 2 stroke stuff. I get a yrs use out of a 2 gallon jug. I also add a cap full of MMO to every fillup. Ever since doing this, I have greatly reduced having to clean out carbs.

The Manual Shutoff Valve is a very sound investment for both Efficiency (Maintenance) and Safety (Fire) . I also have just purchased some Start*Tron and have add some to my F-250 Diesel. I plan on the same within my other OPE Units . That and only using small batchs within a reasonable time frame as required will resolve most ethanol issues.

Here's an interesting link on ethanol in small engines. Google the topic and you'll find a ton of studies and things all busily contradicting each other. If you look at who did the study or paid for it, the outcome (before the test) was preordained.

Here is a link that might be useful: Ethanol in Small Engines

Interesting enough article. In this industry, people have certainly made the new fuel mixes a subject of contention for a couple decades now. So, there is skepticism for good reason. We're still officially at 10% or less by me and really- I wouldn't expect 15% to be put in unless the market would significantly change. We're close to $4/gallon now- will that be a factor? I'm not a chemist in any area, let alone this one- but here is what I see. The folks with the older carbs still do better than the new ones. The same can be said that less fuel related startability/ runability issues ocurr on these engines as well. The larger engine the better. OHV engines, which by design have lighter valve springs are more susceptible to valve sticking due to the deteriorating fuel. Again, the smaller engines more so- but some larger do this as well. As a rule, there seems to be more condensate in the bottom of carbs this spring then ever before. Exterior vented carbs or not. Corrosion will follow. I'm sure that I replace several times more fuel line than say I did 5years ago. Here's reminder to check the fuel cans for water before refilling along with treating the fuel when it is purchased, keeping the container sealed and out of direct sunlight. Plus, do not use fuel with greater than 10 % alcohol in your OPE. I question certain claims by these fuel treatment companies, but do believe they help for a long enough period of time to get through off season storage or through a dry hot summer. So buy and use the stuff as it is the cheapest insurance you have. Engine companies are gearing up to be extra diligent in not honoring warranty where fuel issues come into play.

The little fuel valve in your picture is just the kind to buy and install. We paid roughly $4 last summer, no doubt more this year. They come in an "L" shaped configuration, as well as the straight thru type. They were $5 last year-haven't bought any this year yet.
As for "running it dry", there will be an ounce or so of fuel left in the bowl. Only way to do it is run it dry, then shut off the fuel valve, loosen the nut that holds the carb bowl on, and wiggle it and let the little bit run completly out, then tighten it back up again.
Just think--we are at the mercy of a bunch of college educated finks, who have probably never seen the inside of a carburetor, nor even a whole engine, and they are the ones who design and think up the new carbs! And the fuels to use! And, make the rules for us to follow!

I agree with Rusty don't believe what those Finks tell you . Ethanol does clog small engine fuel circuits very quickly with prolonged use without fuel additives usage .
Just ask numerous forum members who have witnessed it 1st hand lol . I witnessed my 1st experience within a friends
(Michigander) outboard motor. He has since tried to limit ethanol use to auto only . He also uses Stabil and fuel cleaning additives routinely without further issues within any of his small engine units. Thank God the Great White North has No Ethanol here yet !

Guess I'm adding shut off valves where appropriate, investing in fuel additive, K100 or Startron whichever is cheaper around here (and after I use up 32oz of Stabil) and buying gas more often.

As always, thanks for all the good info,

Ev