My first thought is to read the owners manual. Second is - and I don't know if Deere is still doing this - but there is, pasted under the hood on my JD 225, a full maintainence schedule, complete with the recommended oil change schedule and the oil capacity. I think that was pretty neat of JD to do that.

THIS is from your owners manual; Please read

1. Run engine to warm oil.

2. Park machine safely on level surface. (See Parking Safely in the SAFETY section.)

3. Lift hood.

4. Put drain pan under drain valve (A).

5. Remove drain cap (B) and drain oil into drain pan. Allow oil to drain completely.

6. Remove dipstick (C).

7. Wipe dirt from around oil filter (D).

8. Place a drain pan or funnel under oil filter tray.

9. Remove old filter and wipe off filter tray.

10. Put a light coat of fresh, clean oil on the filter gasket.

11. Install replacement oil filter by turning oil filter to the right (clockwise) until the rubber gasket contacts filter base. Tighten filter an additional one-half turn.

12. Install and tighten drain cap (B).

13. Add oil no higher than FULL mark on dipstick. Do not overfill.

· X300 and X304: Begin with approximately 1.7 L (1.8 qt) (57 oz).

I just did the 8-hour oil & filter change and believe the ownerÂs manual is too optimistic. I drained the engine very well. Then added the 57 ounces of oil, as recommended. Then I ran the engine to make sure the oil circulated throughout the engine and oil filter. However, I had to then drain out a lot of the oil (what a mess) because the dipstick showed it to be past the full mark (he ownerÂs manual warns not to exceed the full mark)

Next time I will add only 50 ounces, and then check the level. If OK, then I would re-check it one more time when the engine is cold.

What happens if you do not run the engine first and just do a drain, not picking up all the particles?

To bhshaman:

I do not understand your question. Can you clarify?

Normally you run the engine to circulate all the particulate that settle while the engine is off and cooled.

What happens if you don't bother to run it hot first.
And just change the oil cold.

Are you inserting the dipstick only the the threads (as ID'd on the dipstick of deere's) to measure, or screwing the dipstick into the closed seat?
The difference in capacity between these 2 points on the dipsticks is approx. 8-10 oz.

To steve2ski:

I measured after inserting the dipstick and screwing it into the closed seat. Is this the wrong way?

On autos, you insert the dipstick all the way, then measure. Thus, I assumed that is how it is done for the JD.

This is from YOUR owners manual;

1. Park machine safely. (See Parking Safely in the SAFETY section.)

2. Lift hood.

3. Clean area around dipstick to prevent debris from falling into crankcase.

4. Remove dipstick (A). Wipe with clean cloth.

5. Install dipstick in tube but do not tighten. Allow dipstick threads to rest on top of tube and rotate cap counterclockwise until it "clicks" or drops into place.

6. Remove dipstick.

7. Check oil level on dipstick. Oil must be between ADD and FULL marks.

8. If oil level is low, add oil to bring oil level no higher than FULL mark on dipstick. Do not overfill.

9. Install and tighten dipstick. Lower hood.

could it be possible that you didn't drain out all of the oil before replacing?

danmcd,
See step 5 in like my yard's post, also look on the dipstick near the top of the stick, not oil level marks, instructions for checking are embossed right on the stick . This applies to all Kawasaki engines in JD's I have seen in the past 10 to 12 yrs. Also you can stop in at dealer ask service manager to show how to check.
Now I got to go get a new compost pile going for next year. Present one is not enough.

To steve2ski:

You are right, and it does help to read the manual carefully. The ifo is also on the dipstick, but I never noticed it.

After measuring the oil level the correct way, it was half way between the low and full lines......so I added just about one ounce (maybe two)which brought it up to right to the full mark line. It did not take that 8-10 oz like you metioned earlier; don't know why. I guess it is OK to be right up to the full line(not too full I hope).

Dan McD

To ridonkulus:

Yes, I did drain out all of the oil before replacing.

"Yes, I did drain out all of the oil before replacing."

Was the drained oil hot? Did you elevate the side of the tractor opposite the drain plug? If not, you probably didn't drain out all of the old oil.

-Deerslayer

To deerslayer:

Yes, the drained oil was hot, but I did not elevate the side of the tractor opposite the drain plug. Doing that did not seem practical or easy to do. It that what dealers do?

PS, called my dealer service man and he said it really only hold 1.5 quarts or 47 oz. So now it is hard to know the truth since the manual says 57 oz

Dan McD

Dan, Maybe thats why JD only sells the Premium tractors thru dealers, the manuals ain't right...........just a chuckle, not LOL

Dan,
I've never been able to get the amount of oil the owners manual states for the Kawasaki engines in Deere's. Owning several Deere's from 17 to 25HP, I accepted the fact that the people who write the manuals have never changed the oil on one.

I've tried pulling the side opposite the drain up on 2X4's, it made very little differance. I changed the oil and filter on my X500 recently. The manual calls for 2.1 quarts. It took 4.5 oz. less. Just keep your oil changed and on the full mark.

NOW I've got a question. If your owners manual says it holds 2.1 quarts. How come Deere only gives you 2 quarts of oil in the $38.00 tune up kit? Go figure LOL

LMY

To like_my_yard;

Yup, not enough oil in one case but too much in another case....per the manual. I guess we should feellucky it does not need a full 2 quarts, thus we can have a little extra around in case the engine uses some.

Go figure...