Not sure about your particular model, but sears offers manual downloads on their parts page.

M/W, takes fuel/air/spark to get an engine running - and yer missing at least one of those three.

Air is simple - first, check the engine air cleaner elements not plugged up and carb choke plate working properly. Repair/replace if needed. And, you should be able to tell how engine sounds during cranking to know it is developing cylinder compression.

Fuel/spark - get a rattlecan of carb cleaner - spray a shot or two down the carb throat (air cleaner removed)and then quickly crnak engine while sitting on seat, tranny in neutral, brake pedal fully depressed and mower deck turned off.

If engine tries to start, you have a fuel delivery problem. If engine does not try to start, you have a spark problem.

Fuel delivery - check fuel line clear from tank to fuel pump to carb. Confirm afterfire solenoid functions correctly. remove/clean/rebuild carb as needed

Spark - check same at spark plug. Remove engine sheet metal cooling shroud - look for presence of mice nests and related damaged wiring insulation.

Post back if still problems - let us know what you have found so far - one of us should be able to help you finish the investigation/fix.

Checked spark - OK (pulled plug and crank engine - good blue spark on both plugs). There is a wire going to a bell shaped object under the carb. Would this be fuel control, and should it have 12V present when cranking? I have fuel pressure at carb (pulled line, cranked engine, gasoline spurts out - should indicate fuel pump working) Replaced fuel (just in case). Do not get fuel smell from cylinders (put small hose where spark plug hole is). At this point, suspect no fuel in cylinder just dont know if there is electronic control on fuel at carb, or what the object is at bottom of carb. Thank you for prompt reply. Sears manual doesn't have wiring diagram, (really would like to understand why there is wiring at base of carb since choke, throttle is manual).

You do have a fuel solenoid on the carburetor.
Sometimes, the "pin" can get corroded in place and won't retract, preventing fuel from going through the Main Jet.

IF the brake is ON, you should still get spark when out of the seat. Else, it would kill the engine every time you got out of the seat no matter what.

You might use the ears and listen for the fuel solenoid clicking when you turn the key ON/OFF.
IF it's NOT, the pin is stuck or you aren't getting 12V to it.

Thanks for the response Bill. are the control switchs (seat, etc) linked to the fuel solenoid, or to spark? I am not getting 12V to the fuel solenoid and can jumper it to get it working, but would if this is linked to bad switch someplace I can trace back to it and fix properly. Thank you for pointing me in the right direction.

The diagram does not indicate any control devices for the fuel solenoid except for the key switch itself.
Looking at the diagram I see that the key switch terminal that serves the fuel solenoid also serves to carry the charging current from the alternator diode through the key switch on its way to the battery.
This makes a defective key switch a strong possibility for the condition you are having.
If not a bad key switch I would suspect a broken wire or a corroded wire connector some place between the fuel solenoid and the key switch.

{{gwi:319450}}

Awesome help, Thank you. Tracked it down to corroded contact at the key switch (very surprising). Again, thanks to everyone that responded, the wiring diagram helped! Happy Easter!

Thanks for the bounce back :^)