A lot of numbers, but not the number we need. We need the technical model number. Usually to be found under or near the seat. 9 digit number, typically begins like 917.xxxxxx.
Find and post that number and we will be able to view the online manual.

Couple other thoughts. The fuse holder is under the dash, will be a automotive style holder and fuse. Also this is a Kohler engine and probably has a solenoid starter, so the solenoid is on the engine. There will be a wire, think it is blue, that hooks to this small cylinder on the side of the engine near the starter, I've seen those come loose or fall off, without it the solenoid won't close. Easy fix. The engine quiting upon initial start is not unusual either, these Kohler's are cold blooded, need a minute or two of warm up before they'll handle much load, sometimes help to keep on a partial choke when you engage the electric clutch.

I found the fuse and replaced it. It starts and runs ok. It still will not engage the blades but stays running. I replaced the PTO switch. Did not help. I am hoping it is not the electric clutch. Where does the PTO get its pwr? From the ignition? Could that be my problem? If the safety switches brake pedal/seat, would engine start but not let PTO engage blades? Deck blades and electric clutch are clear of clutter. Belts are tight. Fuse did not re-blow after starting. Any ideas?

something made that first fuse blow. Find it - may be also involved with yer PTO prob.

Mownie is a great reference on these if he only had the proper model to help you. Maybe you could check for 12v and ground at the pto clutch pigtail and report back with the 917#

I had a similar problem to Gerald2010 with my DGT 6000 (about a 2003 model I believe). Anyway, with help from this posting I found the 30 amp fuse and it was blown so I replaced it. I jump started the tractor (I know I need a new battery) and it seemed to run fine. I pulled out of the garage, set the brake and hopped off to put the bagger and chute back on. The engine sputtered and died a few seconds later and also had a lot pop (backfire) like it does when you rock in the seat--I think this is fuel/fumes burning off in the combustion chamber or something. The RPM guage needle was jumping around erratically with the ignition switch in the accessory position. Any help/advice is appreciated. The seat switch ohmed out good, I have 12 volts at the soleinoid (positive cable to ground). My model # is 917275282

Everything I see in the wiring diagram says you have a defective, or maladjusted, or loose clutch/brake switch. And it corresponds to what you describe. By the diagram in the owner's manual, you should be able to vacate the seat while the engine is running if you lock the brake pedal down. Locking down the brake/clutch pedal causes the switch to OPEN the "magneto kill circuit" and PREVENTS the the magneto circuit (which also is the tachometer signal circuit) from being grounded by the Operator Presence Relay when the seat is vacated. If it was a problem in the seat switch, the engine would have quit while you were driving the tractor, or, it never would have started in the first place.
Check the mounting of the brake/clutch switch and make certain the switch is secure and that the plunger is getting the correct amount of travel when the pedal is locked down.
Essentially, your ignition system is being "shut off" chaotically.
The pops and "backfires" result from unburned gasoline being expelled from the combustion chamber into the muffler when the ignition is not sparking, and then that volume of fuel in the muffler gets "lit up" when the sparking resumes. The same thing happens when you "rock the seat" (as you already noticed).

I replaced the battery (which needed done, but was unrelated to the problem) and the engine won't turn over or even click. Does this sound like a starter problem or solenoid or bad relay or something else? The RPM needle is still acting erratic in the accessory position, which leads me to believe it may be a relay issue, but I don't know for sure. Thoughts? My model # is 917275282

Pap, have you read the post immediately above your latest post? I have to ask because I don't see any reference at all to any of the things I pointed out.
Dialogue is 2 people exchanging data/info.
So far, you mentioned putting in the new battery.
Nobody knows where to go with further suggestions/instructions unless we know exactly what you have been doing.

You seem to be in more trouble now than you were before.
Exactly what do you mean "the RPM needle is still acting erratically in the accessory position"? Do you mean you see the needle move one time when the key reverts to the run position? Or do you mean the needle continuously moves and/or bounces around until you turn the key off?

If you believe the operators presence relay is at fault, by all means try a new one. You don't have to buy that relay at Sears or at a lawn equipment shop. It is a generic Bosch 5 relay that can be found just about everywhere auto parts are sold (heck, even Walmart might have it) and most times for less than $10.

Follow up action,
sorry for the late follow up, but I wanted to let others know what I found (with much help from you all). The clutch/brake switch was bad, but strangely enough so was the PTO switch. I thought it strange they'd both go at the same time, but they did. I've mowed 3 or 4 times since replacing and it runs like a new critter. Hopefully, this will help someone else with the same symptoms. Happy mowing.