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Briggs and Stratton 14.5 H.P. shearing flywheel key

factorypilot
14 years ago

My mothers Briggs engine wouldn't start for her so looking it over I found the starter gear to be missing teeth. I replaced the ring gear and this is where the problem started.

I installed the flywheel but forgot my torque wrench so I used a chunk of 2x4 and hoped to seat the flywheel on the taper of the crank. I tightened the bolt down as much as I could with a 1/2 in. socket wrench. I know maybe not the smartest thing I've done but she lives an hour away.

Trying to start the engine it fired and then off again on again random fire. Pulled the flywheel back off and key sheared. New key and tightened as much as I thought felt right and tried starting again. It ran breifly and backfired. Pulled flywheel again, and again key sheared.

Looking at other posts I have an idea that the flywheel isn't tightened down tight enough. As far as I know the engine was running ok when she used it last. Is there any other issue that would cause timing to be off without the engine being taken apart. The brief time it did run it sounded fine.

Also what is the torque spec of the flywheel bolt and air gap on the mag. I have good spark at .006 in. Engine is a model 287707 and type is 0224-01

Thanks

Comments (13)

  • walt2002
    14 years ago

    Flywheel tightens to 65 Ft. Lbs. .008" to .012" on air gap.

    Walt Conner

  • factorypilot
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Walt,any thoughts on the above condition that would be shearing the flywheel keys?

  • rcmoser
    14 years ago

    "1/2 in. socket wrench" ??? (long enough to get good leverage??) 65 foot pounds is quite abit. Get a cheater bar or move up to 1/2" breaker bar if you don't have access to a torque wrench. If it spins over good with the starter IMO you arn't getting the flywheel bolt tight enough. You may have to hold the crank from the pulley bolt while cranking on the flywheel nut.

  • walt2002
    14 years ago

    "Walt,any thoughts on the above condition that would be shearing the flywheel keys?"

    Improper torque setting.

    Walt Conner

  • factorypilot
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Thanks guys, I had already returned home when I started this post so next trip to work on it I will have my torque wrench. I should have been more clear, I was using a 1/2 inch drive socket wrench. Will let you know of the outcome.

  • rustyj14
    14 years ago

    I found the saame problem recently with a B&S engine on a Sears tractor. It had sheared the fly key, so, when i took it apart--there was the problem!! Somebody else had evidently lost the Delville washer, and just put in a flat washer, which didn't do much except allow the flywheel to loosen and shear the key!

  • mownie
    14 years ago

    Bellville washer...place it so the concave side (dish) faces the flywheel and the convex side(dome) faces the nut.

  • rustyj14
    14 years ago

    Mownie: for years, i have been calling that domed washer a "Belleville". I recently hd to go to the mower shop to buy a new one. They call it a "Delleville"!
    By any other name, its still a domed locking device, used in place of a regular lock washer.
    I would suppose that it has several ways of spelling and naming it, in different parts of the land. HMMM??

  • mownie
    14 years ago

    rustj, I have never seen/heard them referred to as Delville (and I thought you just inadvertently had hit the "D" key instead of "B"). I did a search for "Delville washer" (using various spellings) and was never directed to anything regarding "conical tension" devices. The name Delville came up often but never in the context of fasteners. Using "Belleville washers", however, will get you a bunch of "hits" in the subject of fasters. I include a link to just one site. As to the term "Delleville washer" at your mower shop, it would not be the first case of "misunderstanding a spoken word" (their hearing, not yours) or even a "typo" being repeated down the line until it seems to become something it is not.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Oh Bellevedere, come heah boy.

  • factorypilot
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Want to say thanks for the replies on this subject. I torqued the the crank bolt and realized I was nowhere near 65 ft. lbs. by trying to guess by feel. It Runs fine.

  • james sasaki
    6 years ago

    Hi I have a 9hp B&S vertical shaft model 28B702 engine. I recently replaced the flywheel with a used geared one so I could add a starter to it. I sheared a couple of flywheel keys until I noted a torque of 80 ft. lbs was needed, I did that but today while starting it backfired a couple of times and now will not start. So I need to pull the flywheel and change the key again I guess. I also did not pay attention to the Delieve washer but noted someone mention it had to be dish side down. I think 80 ft. lbs should be okay, but I think I saw somewhere it my be up to 100 ft. lbs torque. Thats quite a bit of torque I don't think I can handle that as I have shoulder issues. I"ll try the 80-85 ft. lbs first and hopefully it stays torqued. Could it be that the used flywheel need lapping so it fits tighter to the shaft? I cleaned the shaft and flywheel hole with some brake cleaner so it should grab better. Thanks for any suggestions

    Hugo 138

  • bluemower
    6 years ago

    to james sasaki

    for the 28B702 engine series, the specified flywheel torque is 100 ft lbs. This information is from the single cylinder service manual and also from the Briggs power portal.

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