no, it is not.

if your machine has issues pulling it, lighten up on the weight on teh aerator. you may have to make a few more passes to get everything aerated good, but at least you won't tear up your tractor.

BTW, i doubt pulling the aerator was the only thing tha tblew the tranny. most entry level machines use no-maintenance trannies and the oil in it was likely low/dirty. over tiem it caused enough damage to blow it.

thanks good to know

The exact problem was, lt 2000 - aerating with 4 cinder blocks.

Kept getting slower and slower. Eventually it just stopped, wouldnt drive at all.

Had persom come to service, he said that the model wasnt really meant to aerate.

Now when it mows, it gets slower and slower (acre of prop) like the transmissions overheating or something strange.

There have been more than a few threads about the subject of reviving an ailing hydrostatic transmission by changing the oil and filter. Generally, the oil becomes degraded over time and from the presence of water vapor coupled with heat related breakdown. New oil can make all the difference sometimes. The consensus is to go with a synthetic oil as it will tolerate the heat better.

I don't know how anyone can say that a PLUG aerator is NOT a ground-engaging tool. After all, the spikes are supposed to penetrate the turf as the implement is being pulled along and that is most certainly engaging the ground just as any set of discs or harrow would. In addition, it takes quite a bit of pull to make even a 48" lawn roller negotiate a tight 90 degree turn and a plug aerator will take even more hp and traction.

Removing the weights from the aerator defeats the whole purpose behind it. Reduced weight means reduce penetration so why bother using this tool at all if you are not going to use it the way the manufacturer designed it?

The LT2000 is a Lawn Tractor, hence the prefix. The YT3000 you are considering is a Yard Tractor designed to do a bit more work than a LT but certainly no where near the sort of work that a true GT (garden tractor) is designed to handle. Ground engagement is the sole province of garden tractors. That's why they cost what they do. They have much heavier duty trans-axles and other components in them that will stand up to the stresses of ground engagement, year after year.

Sure, this YT will likely pull the aerator but you will be subjecting this tractor to work that the manufacturer did not design it to do. Warranties only last so long and if the trans-axle pukes after the warranty expires, then you can put the entire tractor at the curb for pick-up because the cost of repair will likely be equal to or greater than the current value of that used YT.

You've probably heard that phrase "you get what you pay for" and it certainly applies here. You're better off looking around for a lightly used garden tractor that is capable of this sort of work than you are in popping for some shiny, new YT that will follow in the tire tracks of your LT.

My thoughts.

I just sold a 1999 GT5000 hydro with 46" deck, 46" snowthrower, and triple bagger for it for $1500. The 20HP Kohler has decent bottom end torque, and a transaxle that's up to the task. Here we use a 1993 GT5000 with a 20HP Magnum horizontal shaft, and manual gearbox. This puppy has more torque at idle and can pull my wife's Z-71. I recently saw one of these on CL for $700 with a mower deck.
{{gwi:322513}}

I forgot to mention that the manufacturers actually set you up for this failure. I picked up a Troy Bilt yesterday (see head haskets, above) which features a 'Quick attach' system, and a list of ground engaging attachments on a placard including their respective part numbers. Neatly attached to the front of this hydro tractor is a 44" dozer/snow blade. The defense rests.

If used correctly, it is.

an aerator is NOT considered ground engaging, though it certainly does engage the ground. the term "ground engaging" when referenced to lawn/garden tractors means that the item actually DIGS in teh dirt, and in most cases is fixed in place with no means of "give" in teh event of a snag. GI implements include moldboard plow/disc/tine cultivators/box blades. aerators are not considered GI because they roll and just pop holes in the ground, they also are not fixed tight to the tractor just pinned in the trailer hitch and can move around. aerators/spreaders/lawn rollers/etc should be no problem at all for a true LT.

it is true that not all LTs are rated for an aerator, but if yours is not it is a sure sign you bought a cheap POS that WILL fall apart long before expected. one thing to look for is what size/type aerator does the manufacturer recommend. they may say it is good for a 42" spike only, or could sya up to a 48" plug.

Really???? By who?? And exactly where does this definition of "ground engaging" exist because I'd like to see the so-called authority that you are relying upon.

A set of discs can be single or double. They can be sleeve hitch mounted, three-point hitch mounted or just get towed along like an aerator does. A good set of discs has the ability to be angled to change how aggressive they are but they can also be adjusted so they are not on an angle and just roll along behind the tractor with likely less resistance than what it takes to pull a properly weighted aerator. Rarely, if ever, do discs get snagged by anything.

When it comes to box blades, unless they are fitted with scarifier teeth, there isn't anything that will snag one of those either unless you run it into a fence. Of course, if your pulling it with a lightweight machine and allow the box blade to fill with loose soil, that weight could stop a tractor.

As for lawn rollers, those too depend upon their width, design and weight when it comes to how much resistance they have to being towed. A four foot wide single roll lawn roller of about 500 pounds or so can be a real bear to get turned even 90 degrees. I've seen lawn tractors get stopped dead during a turn because one wheel couldn't find enough traction and was left spinning.

As far as I'm concerned, you're splitting hairs here. The issue is one of whether the manufacturer fitted the tractor with components that are strong enough to withstand pulling heavy weight, no matter what implement. In order to meet a certain price point in the marketplace, the item chosen most often for cost savings is the trans-axle because it is the most expensive part aside from the engine.

Most of the entry-level lawn tractors have sealed hydro trans-axles in them that don't contain anything replacable. Not even the hydro oil is expected to be replaced. It is presumed that the owner will run it until it fails. At that juncture, the owner either spends a lot of money to buy a complete new trans-axle or he scraps the entire tractor even though it might be just a five dollar part in the hydro that needs replacing.

The aluminum castings double as the bearings for shafts on the standard transmission ones and they get filled with Bentonite because the castings begin to wear all too quickly. If they were filled with oil, many of these trans-axles would be leaking that oil onto the garage floors of this nation before the warranty expired and neither manufacturer would want that to happen.

Everyone has a budget regarding how much tractor they can afford to buy at this point in their life. If you buy something in the sub-$2000.00 range, then rest assured that it has been built with low-end components. If you just cut grass with it and refrain from asking it to tow heavy or hard to pull objects, you will be extending the lifespan of your trans-axle whether it is manual or a hydro. If you insist on using it in ways the manufacturer did not design it for, then don't be surprised when something breaks.

Here is a link with a partial definition of Ground Engaging Equipment... See entry for Garden Tractor.

According to the OPEI (Outdoor Power Equipment Institute) ground engaging equipment includes snow plowers but fails to mention aerators...

Here is a link that might be useful: OPEI Glossary

Bottom line, pulling a heavy plug aerator, while it might not be ground-engaging, is definitely back-breaking work for a tractor. It's best suited for a garden tractor, but if you must aerate with a lawn tractor, better to go with a more narrow 40" which will not require as much weight to penetrate the soil, with less plugs, and therefore isn't as hard to pull.
Most garden tractors are less than 56" wide. Mine are 45" and 49" wide.

wheelhorse,
Thanks for providing that link. However, the wording is far from definitive.

Here's what it says, verbatim.

Quote:

Garden Tractor - A heavy-duty lawn tractor powered by a 14- to 18-horsepower front-mounted, gasoline-powered engine and able to power ground-engaging implements such as garden tillers, plows, dozer blades, snow throwers, etc.
Unquote:

First off, the sentence listing the "ground-engaging implements" end with the word "etc". I would take that to mean the list is most certainly not complete.

Secondly, we have the author declaring that a garden tractor is defined partially by having a gasoline engine ranging from 14 hp to 18 hp. To me, that demonstrates just how out-of-touch the person who wrote that is.

True heavy duty garden tractors are not a recent invention. At one time, Sears sold a three-wheeled riding garden tractor that had a mere 6 hp gas engine. The first Colt garden tractors also came with engines that had less than 10 horsepower. Baumgartz sold a diesel garden tractor in the USA after WWII so the suggestion that garden tractors are gasoline engine powered is incorrect.

I'm still waiting for davidandkasie to reply.

"Secondly, we have the author declaring that a garden tractor is defined partially by having a gasoline engine ranging from 14 hp to 18 hp. To me, that demonstrates just how out-of-touch the person who wrote that is."

I have to agree with Kompressor here. My 1950 Farmall Cub only has 9.5 hp at the drawbar, and I guarantee you it is a Garden tractor. There were all kinds of implements made for the Cub in its heyday, and that includes today too.

Well, this has certainly turned out to be an "evocative" thread. My take on the subject of "ground engaging equipment" is: There does not seem to be a consensus or agreement on the terminology nor even an "official" definition. It even occurred to me that the term may have become "adopted" (and "corrupted") by the marketing departments of various OEMs as a technical sounding phrase to enhance THEIR presentation of the product to the potential buyer. Or, conversely, by a warranty department to deny damage claims. It would seem to me (personal opinion) that ANYTHING that intentionally "disturbs the soil" could be considered "ground engaging", even if it adds little extra loading to the drivetrain of the vehicle. Having said that....I will also opine that anything that is towed, attached, or carried that causes additional loading to be placed on the drivetrain and chassis, might certainly shorten the life of the machine. Whether or not it is loosely considered "ground engaging" or not, it could "break the camel's back".

I tend to agree with Mownie.

But, I think we can all agree that the tires of any vehicle engage the ground!!!!!

cheers

kompressor, my definition comes from the lists of tools that manufacturers rate their different machines as being capable of using. you will never see a LT that is RATED for a moldboard plow/disc/cultivator/box blade from it's manufacturer as that would put it in the garden tractor class. of course some of the "garden tractors" now are really yard tractors which are only slightly more sturdy and a "lawn tractor".

sure, many tools manufacturers say theirs cna be used behind a LT, but they are not the ones who have to approve or deny warranty on the machine when teh tool causes premature death.

lawn tractors are made to maintain LAWNS. this means cutting, pulling a cart, pulling an areator, and few other light duty things.

Garden tractors are meant for working harder. they are designed to handle the stress and strain of true ground engaging implements such as those i listed above.

riding mowers are designed to cut grass and ONLY cut grass. the only thing they MAY say they cna pull is a light weight cart, but many of this class do not even have a hitch point. this class is rare now, the "tractor" class has pretty much pushed it out of existance with the exception of a few machines.

I pull a plugger, I also pull a moldboard plow, disk, box blade etc. From my experience a plugger is ok for a typical lawn tractor. There is not much resistance compared to the more serious ground engaging attachments. I do not see that a plugger, whether it has 180 lbs stacked on it or not, would be harder to pull than a 10 cubic foot cart full of dirt.
Now for the definition. A plugger would be a ground engaging attachment. But then so is a snowblower.

The original question was, "Is a plug aerator a ground engaging attachment?". To me, anything that engages the ground to the point of disturbing the surface of the soil qualifies as a ground-engaging attachment. A mower deck isn't a ground-engaging attachment unless it scalps high spots and neither is a garden cart.

I don't see a snowthrower as being a ground-engaging tool either if it is used to remove snow. And a snowthrower/blower doesn't place much strain on the trans-axle of the tractor in comparison to a plow blade which I also consider to be a ground-engaging attachment.

The OP was trying to find out how much strain a plugger might put on a tractor he was considering purchasing. That would depend greatly on the design, width and total weight of the attachment and those issues were mentioned previously. What's at stake here for the OP is his warranty initially as well as the long-term viabilty of this YT he may buy.

I find it unreasonable for anyone to state catagorically that a plugger is not a ground-engaging attachment because the OP will take that to mean it's perfectly OK for him to pull one with his new YT. This is like saying that a GT is perfectly capable of pulling a plow without discussing whether that plow is a single furrow, two furrow or three furrow model or whether it has a ten, twelve or sixteen inch bottom.

What I also find peculiar is that davidandkasie is prepared to give the OP on this thread carte blanche' to pull any plugger but cautions another OP in a current thread to not buy a big-box store tractor because the guy has a hilly property. If a big-box store LT is incapable of pulling its own weight up a grade, then how is it capable of pulling and turning a fully weighted plug aerator? Both put strain on the tractor and both are limited to the amount of traction the tires can find.

As for the analogy that a plug aerator wouldn't be harder to pull than a 10 cubic foot loaded cart, I disagree. That cart should have properly inflated tires on it that will easily roll across surfaces whereas the plugger will have several of its plugs buried deep in the ground and attempting to exit the ground on an angle as the plugger moves along.

That's quite a bit of resistance. I've seen competitions where strong men have been asked to pull a Class 8 tandem road tractor along a course and have been able to do it thanks to the lack of friction of the tires and wheel bearings. Once they get it moving, they can keep it moving. But with a plugger, there are many variables including trying to negotiate a 90 degree turn at each end of the passes. The wider the plugger, the greater the amount of resistance to turning due to the unequal turning radius between the two ends of the plugger even if the manufacturer has divided the plugger shaft into two sections.

Anyone who doubts this should grab onto a plugger and try pulling it themselves.

And I think that to consider (or "demonstrate) just how much resistance can be created by a plug aerator, think about this: Drive a 12" long, 1" diameter, metal tube into the soil to a depth of 1" to 2". Attach a 10 Lb to 15 Lb weight on top of the tube. Get on your knees and try to pull that tube toward you while forcing the tube to both "tilt" and "lift upward" out of the hole while simultaneously dragging it straight toward you. Now multiply the effort X the number of "plugger tubes" present in about 10 to 15 degrees of the circle of the central "drum" of the aerator assembly (approximately how many tubes are "in play") and you might get an idea of just "how physical" the dynamics actually can be (heck, I'm wore out just from typing this analogy). Of course (disclaimer) the local variables of soil density, moisture, weight of aerator, and the etceteras can cause your results to vary. Always talk to your doctor before engaging any exercise programs. Plug aerators may not be right for you. :^)

But mownie. I've been known to be able to pull/curl multiple 12 oz liquid weights numerous times just like the rest of the folks.

And, with my feet firmly grounded, isn't that "ground engaging" too? Does this mean my garden tractor isn't capable of being ground engaging? ;)

Dear Abby.......

To answer the OP, I wouldn't pull a plug aerator with any Sears LT/YT's only with one of their GT's (if I wanted it to last for any considerable time).

Posted by windcatcher (My Page) on Wed, Apr 15, 09 at 9:45
"I have to agree with Kompressor here. My 1950 Farmall Cub only has 9.5 hp at the drawbar, and I guarantee you it is a Garden tractor. There were all kinds of implements made for the Cub in its heyday, and that includes today too."

Heheh, HP numbers mean little without traction. My Dad's B John Deere was rated at 28hp and can easily outpull any Garden Tractor. Thing still runs great after 57 years, but it's a b*tch to start.

Here is a link that might be useful: Tractor Data

boy , talk about splitting hairs. just admit you are being too literal on everything. i guess because soemone owns a truck they will automatically assume it can pull a 53' semi trailer, cause that is the type of comparisions you are making. if you knew anything at all about ground engaging implements you would know that a 2-3 bottom plow is not made for a SH, only 3pt and rarely for teh smaller Cat0 on most GTs. you need a SubCUT or a CUT to pull those. and yes, some of the old machines were called Garden Tractors, but by modern machine classes they are Sub CUTs.

kompressor, i think you need to reread what i have said. i did NOT give carte blanch to pull any old plugger. i DID say to see what the manfacturer of the machine rates it for as some are not rated for an aerator, and some only only rated for the smaller ones. this part is true regardless of manufacturer and whether it is a box store mower or a heavier duty dealer line.

my main point was the aerator is not ground engaging going by the accepted definition of "ground engaging" when dealing with lawn/garden tractors.

metal, if i wanted a tractor to last a considerable time i would not buy a Sears/box store machine at all. they are made so much cheaper today than they were 10-15 years ago, that they wear out just pulling themselves around. i doubt seriously that any machine under 10k available now will last 40-50 years like the older JDs/Wheelhorse/Sears(not craftsman but true Sears tractors)/etc can and do.

davidandkasie,
I reread your first post. Maybe you should too. The OP's question in the subject line was pretty straight forward. Is a Plug Aearoter a "Ground Engaging" attachment? You said:"no, it is not."

Did I miss something in "no, it is not.", because I thought that your position was also pretty straight forward. So, I asked YOU to show me what it is that you are relying on in the way of some authority that states to an absolute ......a plug aerator is NOT a ground engaging attachment.

So far, you've refused or neglected to name any such authority or point me to a website. So, essentially what we have here just your opinion based upon another urban myth. You don't view a plug aerator as being "ground engaging" and hey, I'm fine with that. And if you had worded it that way in your initial post, then I'd be fine with that too. We're all entitled to our opinions but when you trot out a statement like you did, then I expect you to produce some evidence that supports your definitive statement.

Newbies (like me) come on forums like this looking for advice to solve a problem or in this case, keep them from making a mistake. Had I not posted what I did, you likely would not have made your second post, thus leaving the OP with your original statement.

For many years, Brinly-Hardy made all sorts of attachments for both sleeve hitches and CAT-0 three-points, including single bottom plows. They also made three point dual disc sets too. I have seen two bottom plows for CAT 0 but I don't know who made them.

In your post above, you state: "my main point was the aerator is not ground engaging going by the accepted definition of "ground engaging" when dealing with lawn/garden tractors. "

Once again I ask you, please tell me and everyone else reading this thread, where can we find this "accepted definition of "ground engaging" when dealing with lawn/garden tractors." ???? In order for you to make such a statement, you must be relying on something.

I'm surprised no one has called out the whole "last 40-50 years" argument as garbage. NOTHING out there will last that long anymore, much less the fact that 90% of consumers would never need something to last that long, much less keep it that long. There is an acceptable life span for a machine that varies based on the consumer and the price point, but the fact you consider it a failing something wouldn't last 50 years is pretty funny. I'm sorry, I just found that pretty funny.

At the end of the day though, I could see if you use the tractor to pull an aerator every other day, it would certainly shorten it's life span. But maybe once or twice a year like the TS, my neighbor, or I do? My neighbor has pulled one with his hydro-static Huskqy for several years, and mows an acre with it as well. His luck is the reason I bought mine.) Not likely.

jagstang41,
The reason why some of us don't call out the whole "last 40-50 years" argument is because we know of GT's what are being built today that will most assuredly last that long with reasonable care. The Ingersoll is one of those tractors. Born as a Colt and later becoming a J. I Case branded product before becoming the Ingersoll of today, I can assure you that there are many, many Colt and Case tractors from the mid-sixties still out there cutting grass and blowing snow.

The Ingersoll branded tractor that is available today is better made, stronger and more durable than the earlier models. While I certainly won't be around to see any of these 40 or 50 years from now, I have every confidence that the teenager of today will, assuming that gasoline will still be a viable fuel in 2059 and people still have lawns to mow.

While many of us don't consider it to be a "failing" for something to not last 40 or 50 years, we are rather dismayed that the second most expensive part in many of these tractors is not servicable in any way. It is built so cheaply that it often fails well in advance of many other parts on the tractor and often makes the machine a total write-off as a result.

In the world of LT's, YT's and lower end GT's, there are good hydros and not-so-good hydros. Your friend with the Husky will eventually find out which hydro he has.

if your gonna pull something heavy use a gear drive if just mowing a hydrostatic drive is ok especially on the cheaper built lines of equipment, hydrostatic drives are very expensive to buy or rebuild,learn from my errors.

I interupt it as "ground Engaging equipment would be something that uses additional power from the engine. When you tow usually LT arn't rated for additional work load put on the hydostat drives especially the low end or entry level LTs. However, most of us do it anyway. So it wears a cheap LT out quicker, afterall that's why we brought the cheap one anyway knowing it wasn't going to last very long.

Gear drives usually will hold up longer, but IMO it depends on the "Nut behind the wheel" meaning his shifting delema's, speed he runs it, and, how often he or she does preventive maintenance. In theroy; the better it's taken care of and less stress put on the drive train the longer it should last.

goto Deere/Simplicity/husq/craftsman/most any other tractor vendor/brand's ( i say vendor/brand's so you don'targue that some of them are nto manufacturers) website and compare their Lawn tractors' accessories with their garden tractors' accessories. the aerator is rated by them for use with their LT models, but stuff like the plow/disc/etc are ONLY listed for the GARDEN tractors. since a garden tractor is made for ground engaging, and a LAWN tractor is not, then you can infer the definition from those listed accessories at most any of the sites that list specs for teh machines.

i guess you just can't comprehend how to do that though. and BTW, ask on any tractor enthusiast site and you will get the accepted definitions, there is no single hard and fast definition. to clarify that, see the link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: meaning of accepted definition

Is an aerator technically ground engaging or not... Who cares! The original post was stating that they are going to continue to pull an aerator so would the YT3000 holdup better than their LT2000, or is there a better option out there. The YT (and only YT) series tractors are made by Husqvarna. Sears does this with just about all their "brand name" items (a lot of Kenmore models are made by Whirlpool / Maytag). The best option seems to be the YT3000 with a 42 inch deck and 22 HP Kohler Courage engine. For the class, price, and reliability, you're not going to find a better deal. You sacrifice deck size for a better engine and drive system. I have a Honda self propelled and am in the same market you are looking for the same thing and the only safe option is to spend 5000 on a quality tractor, which I am not going to do. That or pay somebody to aerate for me, which I am also sick of. If you go with craftsman, stick to the YT line with either Kohler or twin Briggs engines. Do not go with a single Briggs because from opinions and reviews, they don't last long even under light duty. The best thing would be to stay away from the Briggs all together, which seems a popular cheep mower engine that doesn't last, but the twin gets much better reviews than the single. As for the fussing about the tranny, there is nothing that you are going to do about it in this class. The YT3000 mentioned above is hydrostatic / pedal drive. I think that everybody here is in the same boat when I say that I'll be using the tractor to mow about 30 times this year and using it to aerate once. Since all manufacturers seem to list aerators as compatible with similar models, I'm not going to lose any sleep over pulling one for less than an acre once a year. Talk to enough sales people and they'll steer you away from towing anything with an LT series tractor. If they have no faith in the product, neither should you. JD lists the John Deere LT115 as the best in this class, but from the opinions of others, both online and personal, I'm going to go with a runner up. Husqvarna seems to have a good reputation in this class.

I'm not saying that pulling an aerator won't put additional wear on the tractor. I don't see why people felt the need to go off on a wild tangent about whether an aerator is considered ground engaging or not, or whether a tractor will last 50 years or not. Although it was a part of the original question, it is not the point of the question. If you want the correct answer on whether it is considered ground engaging equipment or not, ask the manufacturer as it is for them to determine if the product they built can handle the stress you want to place on it. Sears not only doesn't acknowledge aerators as ground engaging equipment, but recommends it as an optional component for the YT line. Of course it is going to add wear and tear. But then again, so is sitting on it, putting on a bagger, and pulling a sweeper. The question is whether it is acceptable for that model. You could debate it for years until you find out through trial. For the rest of us, Sears says it is acceptable wear, I want to aerate my own lawn, and I'm going to pick the best feasible tractor to do it. Through my research, I believe the YT3000 with kohler engine is that tractor. Once again, I'm going to do it anyway, it's which "value" tractor will likely handle it best, and could I expect it to do better and last longer than the LS2000. Yes.

timeahs, the main limiting factor for pulling an aerator isn't the engine, it is the transmission, which you didn't even mention. I usually don't think buying Sears extended warranties is a good idea, but in your case I think you better spring for it.

Comment:
"I don't see why people felt the need to go off on a wild tangent about"
One possible response:
Because this is a "discussion forum" where people may discuss things and express opinions.
Some people are are OK with another person's opinion being different from their own while other people get somewhat bent out of shape. I suppose that holds true everywhere around the globe and throughout time since day 1.

My neighbor talked me into aerating her .5 acre lawn this weekend. Apparently her lawn care provider wants $250 for the service, especially since gas is reasonable again. That's a bit outrageous for something I can do in an hour with my own household equipment (but it is making that lawn care retirement job look more and more feasible from a profitability standpoint). She said she'd pay me but I'd feel like a chump accepting money from my neighbor for something like that. Even if we're not the closest of neighbors.
I pull my plug aerator with 2 large cinder blocks and 2 half cinder blocks, with my eBay purchased Deere GT225, which, slightly used, cost less than new Craftsman garden tractor ($2k, w/ some extras). But the GT225 is wheeled around by a bombproof K71B transaxle. I wouldn't even think of aerating on a regular basis with a light duty tractor. Before I purchased my tractor-mounted tiller, I'd use the aerator for the purpose. After a dozen or so passes, it basically does the job. If an attachment capable of turning sod into loose soil isn't a ground engaging attachment, I don't know what is. But of course nothing fluffs the terra-firma like a good tiller.

Actually, as a Sears Lawn & Garden associate, I have both information and suggestions to share. Almost all of the Craftsman powered lawn equipment is made by Husqvarna, the few exceptions most notably being within the zero-turn riders. The plug (and other) aerators are not classified as "Ground Engaging" because the craftsman models do not require a sleeve hitch attachment to fit them to the mower. The YT300 (depending on the specific model) should use this implement just fine, but a better suggestion would be to look to the Craftsman Professional PYT9000 series of tractors. It will cost you a little more, but is well worth it. While considering this, also consider the repair plan offered. Unlike the extended warranties which flood the market, this plan is not confined to warranty issues, but actually covers in-home repair for wear out issues. On the off-chance that something wears out in your transaxle, the repair plan will cover either repair of the transaxle ore replacement of the entire machine!

You had me until you started with the extended warranty(waste of money). That just proves that you are actually a Sears employee.

I will add my 2 cents. I would say a plug style aerator is ground engaging. So now you have the answer.

Jim,
Why does your screen name include a Sears 5-digit item number?

Sears called me the other day to sell me a home repair plan for a TV I bought three years ago, a 37" toshiba LCD. They actually had me for a minute when they said it covers normal wear like shadowing and burnout (which is faintly starting to appear from the non-widescreen channel black boxes on the sides). I was expecting the price to be maybe in the $100 range, which would have maybe been worth it. Nope: $350. That's half what I paid for the TV and just a little less that it would cost to replace it with a similar one now.

My Yukon just went out of warranty. Using Sears' computation formula, I asked him if he could offer me a similar home protection plan for $20k.

It's actually kind of spooky the way they call you and start asking you about all your stuff. "What about that grill you bought last year? What about the other TV? How's that high efficiency washer and dryer treating you?" Next they'll be asking me if my wife needs a new thong. Thankfully she doesn't buy her undergarments at Sears.

jimxxx - Here it is with the bark on:
Hukstering on this forum ain't well taken by most that hang out here. If you wnat to contribute to answering someone's specific problem, whale away. But - chill on the sales pitches.

I actually enjoy it with no holds barred. My advice about the repair plan was advice, not a "sales pitch". Think about it- I make no commission from this sale if it happens, so why would I be so motivated? My company will actually make more if the OP wears out his mower in 2-2 1/2 years if he doesn't have the repair plan, because they will not be the ones to replace it, he will. As far as Hukstering as you called it- I meant it as advice from someone who buys and has read the plans. Oh, and for the person that assumed that the 5 digit number in my screen name was a Sears Item Number- have you never considered that it may just be my zip code? (it is)

Well I can't speak for rcbe and his posse, but having a Sears insider is an asset to this forum. If you didn't believe you worked for a good company, you wouldn't be "huckstering" for them.

I used to be quite prolific in an edmunds tire forum, while paying my way through college working full-time in a Sam's club tire shop. I never held back when people asked where they can get the best deal on tires: Sam's Club. At the time, it was a simple fact that you could not get a better price on either the tire or the service and warranty than Sam's offered. It presented no financial gain for me. And a quiet guy with greasy fingernails posting in a forum will do little to sway the profits of the largest retailer in the history of the universe. I got paid $10.50 an hour--$11.50 on Sundays--whether I sold and installed ten sets of tires or picked my nose (brake dust kicked up by impact wrenches tends to accumulate in the installer's nose).

Jim West-Coast-Zip-Code, don't hold back. If you have information that can help someone make a more informed purchase, let's hear about it.

Exactly what I meant it to be. The idea that the current Sears Repair Agreement is either an extended warranty or a waste of money is a concept held onto by those who either want the service departments to profit or are overwhemingly ignorant. It wasn't that long ago that a lady who visited my store got upset with me for offering to send a contract home with her so that she could read it and make an informed decision rather than relying on what she had heard. The basis of her anger- she claimed to have sold the same contract when she worked for Montgomery Ward. I'm sorry, but thinking that a currently offered contract has no difference from a contract offered 5 or 10 years in the past is ignorant enough, why add to it by confusing two different companies. Part of my job so far has been to research what offers are made by my competitors to "enhance" the manufacturer's warranty. I have found that, for the most part, what rcbe says is true- extended warranties are a waste of time and not worth considering. I have also found (both by reading about the differences and buying the contracts) that the Sears contracts offer enough added protection to be at least considered. Sears had a reputation in the past for service after the sale. Those of us now in the company would like to get that reputation back, but a lawsuit happy America has made it so that we have to have a written contract to override the manufacturer's warranty. The only other option is to increase all the prices to include the coverage whether you like it or not. If we did that, we may as well close our doors, because we want you to have a choice and not become like so many tire shops that advertise "free flat repair" when they should say "road hazard warranty included in price- live with it." I only advise that every person considering a purchase also consider the coverage. Read it, make yourself informed, and make your own choice. Just don't take your product back to the store five months after following ignorant advice trying to demand a refund. It's not gonna happen, because you decided to cut the retailer loose from all responsibility at the ninety day mark.

yeah, but Sears is closing most of their repair centers and have been for years. they closed the one here probably 5-6 years ago. now you have 2 guys working from vans and they get to you WHEN they get to you. Sears had a rep for great service when they had teh service centers. heck, if they could not come on site due to a backlog, you could at least count on that they would get someone to run by and haul it in for you and they would generally get right to it. plus they had the vast majority of parts on hand or could get them next day. now they won't order anything until they know 100% what they need, and then once they ship it to you, it is the customer's responsibility to call and setup a 2nd service call.

last year my parent's fridge went out and it would be 2 weeks before they could come, then they would have to diagnose and order the parts, then once the parts came in reschedule another call probably 2 more weeks(this per the tech). so 1 month with no fridge! not hardly, especially since my parents were paying Sears 1600.00 a year to keep every appliance they own under an agreement. they did not renew any agreements, and now save enough to simply repair or replace immediately if something fails.

so no, you won't talk me into wasting money on a RA.

You see, not all repairs are done to the consumer's satisfaction, as in the case of davidandkasie. It seems that the repair people in that area were either unaware of the rental reimbursement offered on the MPA on that fridge as well as the food loss coverage, or they failed to mention it. This is a reason why I urge people to actually read these things. There was no reason to go without a fridge for this long while it was covered under the MPA. As far as the satellite service centers closing their doors, it was a decision that made sense around here. Our "Service Center" had a small handful of people that ordered parts at a counter and kept a small inventory on hand. In my opinion, this should have been done as a department in the retail store rather than off site. The problem with the off site centers, however, was that ones like we had here were only open to take in repairs for twenty hours a week, and Sears had to pay rent on the off site building. In order to keep something like this open for any sustainable length of time, Sears would have had to be able to hire enough repair techs to fully staff each one, causing service rates to at least double, repair plan costs to triple, and part prices to raise accordingly. Since nobody would be likely to accept and pay these higher rates, the decision was made to fully move part ordering to online and phone, with the access of your local salespeople to assist, and take repair drop off at the retail store. I wish Sears would listen to associates like myself and reopen the old-fashioned parts counter on site at the retail store, but if wishes were fishes we'd never be hungry.

Try a hooker aerator from JRCO Equipment. It mounts to the front of some riding mowers and slices through the turf preventing compaction that is caused by core aeration.