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itzbinnice

Briggs 8 HP Governor Problem

itzbinnice
16 years ago

I have a Snapper RER with a 8 HP Briggs engine. This engine is a replacement engine that is 3 years old.

The Snapper has always been in a shed and is in very good shape for a 1985.

When I replaced the engine the throttle control cable never seemed to function properly from day one.

It seemed like when you slid the lever from high speed to the lowest speed setting in did not reduce the speed

in graduations, it was either fast or slow. After numerous attempts to adjust the cable I just gave up and used it

the way it was, besides 90 % of the time it was running at full speed to cut the grass.

Now this is when my problem began, recently in attempt to correct this condition I think I may have damaged the governor within the engine. I played around adjusting the governor lever arm and next thing I know the engine

Is screaming, I shut it down immediately. After several attempts to reduce the speed with no luck, I heard a bang from the engine, possibly part of the governor weights breaking off. IÂve spent countless hours trying to adjust but the engine still revs high no matter what I do, I always shut down immediately when this happens.

Here is what IÂve done countless times with no success. I move the governor shaft counter clockwise and hold it there. Then I loosen the nut holding the governor bracket to the shaft and push the bracket so that the throttle is in wide open position. Even with the governor at itÂs lowest setting the engine over revs, only way to slow it is to partially choke it. The engine does start easily even after hearing the bang noise and there are no leaks.

My question is, how does one determine if the governor is bad internally without tearing the engine apart.

When I turn the governor shaft coming from the engine it does turn freely and has itÂs stops both clockwise and counter clockwise. I was thinking to drain the oil tonight to see if there is any foreign matter, however, the parts may be too large to exit the drain plug, thus giving me incorrect diagnosis.

Any advise would be appreciated on how to diagnose or correct the problem.

Comments (16)

  • walt2002
    16 years ago

    "I heard a bang from the engine,"

    Well that is never good.

    You are using the right procedure except you should turn the governor shaft CLOCKWISE and hold while tightening the governor arm clamp with throttle in wide open position.

    You might want to remember that the governor and the oil slinger are the same ass'y so if the governor is now damaged - - - -.

    I suggest you upgrade to a good used 11, 12, 12.5 hp engine.

    Walt Conner

  • itzbinnice
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Walt,
    Many thanks for your response, what you say makes sense by making the governor adjustment at clockwise position and adjusting the arm clamp to full throttle.
    I will try it but quite frankly I doubt it will work since the method I used, having the governor shaft in the counter clockwise position while adjusting at full throttle would if anything make the engine run slow. I may be wrong with this assumption, and please correct me if I'm wrong.

    I was thinking of replacing the engine again with a 11 HP but not sure if it's worth it at this juncture.
    I can't remember the shaft size of the 8 HP, believe it's 3/4" or 7/8", just not sure, but it seems the 11 HP's are 1". Also the muffler port on the 11 HP is 1", the 8 HP I believe is 3/4", meaning I have to buy a new muffler system in addition to the cost of the engine.

    What a shame, the engine is super clean as the day I installed, I was just too stupid to leave well enough alone.

    I do believe the governor in shot within the engine, do you know of any indications that would confirm this?

  • walt2002
    16 years ago

    "I will try it but quite frankly I doubt it will work since the method I used, having the governor shaft in the counter clockwise position while adjusting at full throttle would if anything make the engine run slow."

    Could send you that section out of the B&S manual.

    "I can't remember the shaft size of the 8 HP, believe it's 3/4" or 7/8""

    Some 8 hp B&S had shouldered end on the crankshaft but the standard size for 8 hp thru 20.5 hp vertical shaft B&S engines is 1" dia. by 3-5/32" long.

    Walt Conner

  • itzbinnice
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Walt,
    Thank you for your replies, they are genuimely appreciated.

    I don't have a manual for this engine, I found the information on a Google search stating that it should be set at counter clockwise at full throttle.

    I thought I was using logic by setting it up in the counter clockwise position because whenever I push it clockwise it races even faster. But I'm sure you know much better than I of how it's supposed to work, you've probably forgotten more than I will ever know.

    I am at work now so I am unable to make any adjustments at this time.

    The counter clockwise postion seems to work for a few seconds but then begins to race. If I push the governor arm clamp to the left, the same direction the spring is pulling it closed, it does slow down, but as soon as I release the pressure it races again.

    Thank you for advising the shaft size as being 1", that will help me in deciding to put a larger engine in it.
    I am really torn about inveesting any more money in this older machine since I'm not that fond of it in the first place with it's wide 28" turning radius. I was thinking of selling it and buyinging a used Toro RER that has a 15" turning radius. I have many nooks and crannies that are a chore with this wide turning radius. Without the engine running It would be difficult to try and sell it.
    I must say this unit has superb pickup power when it worked.
    It would even vacuum up sand from the street if I lowered the deck enough.

  • walt2002
    16 years ago

    "I found the information on a Google search stating that it should be set at counter clockwise at full throttle"

    Well there is always the possibility I read it wrong. I know the larger engines all set clockwise. I will try to think to check the manual again tomorrow.

    Walt Conner

  • fisher40037
    16 years ago

    You need to see if you can move the throttle back and
    forth by hand, and see if it rotates freely. That bang
    you heard may have been your engine eating that throttle
    plate screw, and the engine is stuck in full throttle
    because the plate is lodged in the throat, open.

    Fish

  • itzbinnice
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Walt
    I drained the oil last night and it was clean with no signs of any fragments. I also did try and set the governor shaft at the farthest most clockwise setting and setting the governor arm at full throttle. By doing so the engine would not start, it always starts on the 1st or second pull. I then moved the governor shaft and arm to the farthest counter clockwise position and it started on the first pull, however, still racing.

    In desperation, I tried moving the governor shaft to the counter clockwise position and adjusted the governor arm so that it was mid throttle, same result, races. Then tried setting it at it's slowest throttle speed, still races.

    One thing is for sure, the governor shaft must be in the counter clockwise position, otherwise it would race even faster.

    The spring and linkage all work freely so I'm at my wits end of what is causing this. I suspect it's internal governor issues.

    Fisher40037
    Thanks for your suggestion regarding the throttle plate screw, pulled the carb and everything is fine.

  • stripped_threads
    16 years ago

    Are you able to remove the link and start the engine and manipulate the throttle plate manually (with goveror un hooked) to keep it in good RPM range? If so, you could play with the RPM with one hand and "feel" the goveror pressure with the other as the RPM changes. I would assume, never actually done so.

  • itzbinnice
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    @ stripped threads
    Good suggestion I'll give it a try.
    I wont't have to hold the throttle manually since I can move the throttle cable to decrease the throttle.
    I will need to attach some some of spring to hold the governor in the farthest most counterclockwise position
    or the engine will overrev immediately while I pull the chord and it starts.

    I have a question regarding this, with the engine running should I fell some sort of movement in the governor shaft since there will be no load on the engine. If so, and the governor shaft remains fixed in whatever postion I hold it in this will likely confirm the problem is internal and the governor is not doing it's job.

    Many thanks to all in trying to assist me with my problem, I do appreciate you spending your valuable time.

    t this point I have over 900.00 invested in this used mower and it's just not economically wise to replace the engine with a new one, looks like used ones are hard to come by.

  • walt2002
    16 years ago

    itzbinnice,

    IF I managed to get things to work, below are copies of 3 pages from the B&S Service and Repair Manual. "page 4 deals with setting the governor for Cast Iron Series 191400 B&S. Note you turn the adjustment Counter clockwise. I don't believe this is the engine you have. Infact, I know you don't on a Snapper RER.

    Pages 8 & 9 deal with Aluminum Series 190000 B&S engine, note that it says turn Clockwise.

    Walt Conner

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  • walt2002
    16 years ago

    Well I see it didn't work, I guess I will have to review instructions.

    Walt Conner

  • bill_kapaun
    16 years ago
  • walt2002
    16 years ago

    Thanks Bill,

    I think you did that for me before, gotta read and use those instructions so I can remember.

    Walt Conner

  • itzbinnice
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Walt
    Thanks for your attempt at showing the schematics.

    Bill,
    My sincere gratitude for posting the schematics with instructions.

    After countless hours of fiddling with this issue I have come to the conclusion that the governor is damaged internally. I have no desire or proper tools to disassemble the engine to repair it. My only option is to watch Ebay for a used engine and replace it. What a shame, through my stupity in trying to make things better, I ruined a perfectly good engine that's only 3 years old.

    Thank you all for your time and effort in assisting me.

  • bill_kapaun
    16 years ago

    Once I finally got it right, I posted a sample on wordpad.
    I copy that, paste it in to the box (here) and then go back and paste the proper link "guts" inside it.

    You don't use""

    B

  • scott_starling
    9 years ago

    How can you tell if the governer is bad internally? I have tried everything to reset it and even replaced linkages to ensure it is correct. After no luck I have torn the engine down and have found no problems with the governer. The tappet that rests in between the weights fell out as I took the sump off, which I very well consider to be a cause of the governor racing, but do you have any other advice before I rebuild it Walt? By the way its a 11HP Briggs Cast Iron Series if it helps, Thank you!

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