The B&S twin Intek is an "unfortunate" engine.

Walt Conner

The B&S twin Intek is an "unfortunate" engine?

Might I ask why is the B&S twin Intek is an "unfortunate" engine?

Last night I just purchased a Sears DYS 4500 lawn mower with the 24 HP 2 cylinder Briggs and Stratten Intek engine.

They have a high failure rate.

Walt Conner

How about the B&S 21 single? I have this on my Ariens 2150.

"How about the B&S 21 single?"

I am not familiar with that engine.

* Posted by walt2002 (My Page) on
Mon, May 18, 09 at 8:16

They have a high failure rate.

A high failure rate?

Walt, could you be more specific?

Is there a particular issue?

Could it possibly be maintenance related?

I am looking any ammo I could use to nudge a repair towards
warranty coverage if they get "iffy" on me.

And I wish these forums had a personal running list of posts as I post and then can't find my way back to it!

***"And I wish these forums had a personal running list of posts as I post and then can't find my way back to it!***"
Well, YOU CAN "save to favorites" on your computer and then file that "saved shortcut" into any folder you choose (make a folder for them). While you are viewing a webpage (and each thread here is a separate webpage with its very own specific URL), you can "save to favorites". Then when you click that saved URL later, it will redirect you straight back to that webpage. Once you have that "shortcut link" in a folder in your computer, you can rename it and date it, number it, or anything else you want to make it recognizable by you, for where that "clickable shortcut link" will open a webpage. How are you doing on your document to plead your case with the factory rep?

BTW my new DYS 4500 tractor seems to be running perfect.

Only a slight puff of smoke on start up and goes away as soon as I push the choke in!

I cant find any info on the "automatic" transmission as it's not supposed to be the "Hydromatic".
I would like some info on it.
The booklet that came with it says it's the (belt driven BTW) Hydro GR T2 (and that sounds like the Hydromatic but it has the fender throttle, not the foot pedals)

Also, my tractor seems to use the same frame as the Garden series tractors, and the 24 HP engine it uses is the same basic design as the 27 HP engine, and the same tractor could also come with the 54 inch deck.

So, I wonder, if the trans fails and I can't revive it or repair it, could I install the heavier duty Hydrostatic trans used in the Garden Series tractor, swap out the carb and up the HP to 27 HP and then be able to use the "Ground engagement" attachments?

How are you doing on your document to plead your case with the factory rep?

mownie, I just purchased my tractor last Sunday and have had no problem other than my lack of knowledge on how to operate it, but want to keep track of any reliability issues just in case.

OOPS! Sorry archangel2003, I read the line "I am looking any ammo I could use to nudge a repair towards
warranty coverage if they get "iffy" on me." and I immediately confused you with another member WHO IS working on (or at least "should be working on") a document to suuport his "warranty claim". My sincere apologies to you for my "jump to the wrong conclusion". Having said all that, I will add that "the best ammo" you can have is to buy only the OEM filters and use only the OEM recommended oil (or buy the OEM branded oil) while the machine is still covered by the factory warranty. Also, save all receipts for purchases of all items you buy that are for the scheduled maintenance services. Keep a "logbook" to record dates and type of services done. If the machine features an hourmeter, record the hourmeter reading in addition to the date. Make sure you actually do all the scheduled maintenance services at the OEM specified intervals, or do them sooner than specified. Doing it early is OK but doing them late just gives ammo to the potential factory rep who might potentially deny your potential claim. Wow, that was a potent sentence! Another bit of "icing on the cake" would be to scan all your receipts and your log book into your computer (or create a "logbook document file" in the computer (using the word processing software in the computer) in case the dreaded event would require e-mailing to the factory or "third party". Heck, do both, your attention to detail would work in your favor with a rep or a jury. Since you just bought this machine, it is the perfect time for you to plan for keeping records of maintenance. Just remember that the record keeping could one day be as important as the maintenance itself. So do both "faithfully".

mownie.
You and I are on the same page as far as keeping records is concerned.

I looked at a few more tractors today and one of the John Deer tractors looked identical to the Sears tractor, engine, frame, body parts,and rear end, so there must be a lot of cross branding of parts out there!

And the sears tractor that is rated for ground engagement is the "Craftsman Professional Series".
It uses the same trans-axle as the one offered in my tractor series called the Hydromatic, (exact same part number) and is also belt driven, so it should fit with little or no modification if need be.

I look like I could make it a farm implement rather than just a grass mower by swapping the trans!

It also uses the same cast iron axle.
The frame might be thicker though.

*****"the 24 HP engine it uses is the same basic design as the 27 HP engine"*****(so could I)swap out the carb and up the HP to 27 HP??? **
I wish I could say it was that simple (and it well could be) but I doubt it is that simple. If the last sentence seems to be contradictory, consider that carburetion is not the only factor in determining HP of an engine. Likewise, neither is the camshaft, the crankshaft stroke length, the piston & cylinder diameter, and so on. But...with some of these OPE engines, any single ONE of the items mentioned, might be the only difference between the alledged HP of two given engines in the same family. Or it might be two or several different things that result in a higher HP rating. Or there might not be any differences at all (other than putting a different decal on it and assigning a different set of ID numbers). Confused now?? Don't expect the engine OEMs to clarify anything. It has been "rumored" that an engine OEM produced a certain engine for a specific "build year" with a certain HP rating. The next "build year" production run of the same, identical engine......with no changes or modifications.......was rated at a different HP. The explanations (excuses) for this ranged from "a change in energy content of pump gas" to "a different formula for calculating HP". Recently (in the past two years), the trend toward "torque ratings" began to walk the front of the stage with HP getting pushed behind the curtain. But we don't need to worry too much about all this stuff! The machine "WILL DO", "what it can do", nothing more. Maybe the government will step in and "save us" from all this confusion. AHHHHHH!, nothing like a good rant sometimes :^)

I know.
The official B&S answer was that it could be the carb, cam, tuned exhaust, yada, yada, yada!

My automotive and Diesel background leads me to believe it's most likely a slightly larger carb (also the economic favorite as it's only a little less than a 13% increase in power).

I also spent some time researching the trans-axles and it looks like they all (of similar size) have the same mounting pattern!

Mine has the Hydrogear GR T2 and is not rated for ground engagement, but the ToughTorq K46 is rated for ground engagement and has all the same measurements, and the larger/stronger K57 and K58 (K58 has a larger 1" axle size) look so similar I believe they will bolt right in, and the K57 adds hydraulic fittings for hydraulic accessories!!

My Husqvarna 24hp twin intek started smoking and using a
qt of oil every mowing. The engine was 3 years old and
100 hrs of use.Oil & filter was changed every 25 hours and
air filters was checked and cleaned after every mowing.
I have no recourse as the 2 year warranty was past.
I would urge anyone with this engine to pursue a replacement
within the warranty period if possible.
My engine was model 445677-0476-E1

Well, if the mowing season is 6 months long here (I'm not sure) and I take about 2 hours on the clock to mow it, I will be at about 104 hours at the end of the warranty period.

I wonder if there is some design flaw etc I have the 445677 0413 E1 engine and found the right side cylnder dead. Open valve cover and found push rods bent. (both intake and exaust)
I replaced the rods engine ran good for about 20 minutes and lost power. Opened the cover again and found the new exaust push rod bent. What is wrong and what to do.