Dale, I bought that engine from them and have used it for over a year. I love it. It doesn't fit in a very minor way. The steel frame on the rear of the mower that supports it while vertical will have slight contact with the muffler. I took some washers and sandwiched them between this bar and the mower - only on the top 2 bolts, not the bottom two. This created the perfect angle for the bar so it would not make direct contact. In theory, the mower now leans forward when upright which is potentially very dangerous. I've had no issues at all. Also, you can adjust the angle/direction of the exhaust gas on the honda muffler. It came from the factory set at 3:00. This shot it directly into the aforementioned bar. I removed the 3 screws and turned it to 6:00 (downward) for an unobstructed path for the exhaust. Go for that Honda. It's quiet and built very well.
Hope this info makes sense.

I hope you're looking at their ebay auctions for this engine. I got it for $275-325 (memory fading) about 1.5 years ago.

Here's my thread from '08 - note dc3mech's tips. He's a sharp guy.

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tractor/msg0809570422250.html

if the link fails to function, google "repower snapper rer Q"

I mention the Honda 390 cc in my initial post but I went with the EXACT same engine you mention.

Here is a link that might be useful: MY REPOWER THREAD

Don't leave me alone! This is exactly what I was hoping to hear. Person at the small engine warehouse I'm not allowed to mention said there was no engine to fit (I thought it odd that they had engines for 28 inch and 30 inch, but not the 33 - they're identical except for horsepower I assume). I'll search ebay, but I looked this morning and those engines were expensive. Right now it's priced at $340 for the pull start only. I'll read and print your other posts. I can't see the point of throwing more money at a 19 year old Briggs if it won't be as good as the Honda anyway. Thanks again!!!

Oh, I see that someone mentioned an electric fuel pump solenoid on the 13 hp. Is the 11 hp that is pull start only good to go without any charging system? I'd prefer to skip all that, just more stuff to fail. Does the kill wire from the safety switch sensor just bolt on to the magneto at a block somewhere? Thanks again.

You may want to consult Walt on here...he would know if there's any difference between the 28 and the 33 incher. I figure they're just covering their tail by stating it will not fit. If someone else were to receive it and have the muffler issue I described above, they'd be liable or the exchange.

I shared your theory of "more technology = more points of failure". I mildly regret not getting a charging system as I use the battery to power a sprayer. Now I just have to charge it prior to use. It's no big deal, really as I spray maybe 3 times per year. I use the heck outta this engine and it starts first or second pull every time. It's not a whole lot harder to pull than my 5.5 hp honda motor. I wonder if there's some type of compression release at play here...who knows. I have 2 neighbors who use my mower regularly and I use it 2-3 times per week. I've not had any issues whatsoever with this engine. Now I realize that it's only been in service for 1.5 years. So, I cant really provide a long-term review.

As for the kill wire - mine (and presumably yours) has a kill button near the throttle linkage on the engine. It is activated by throttling down farther than the stroke of our cables will allow. Here's what I did: (forgive me as I do not know technical terms for ANYTHING engine related once you get the engine, you may understand what I'm talking about) drill a small hole in the steel lever that moves as you adjust throttle. I secured a cylindrical piece of plastic to the metal piece. Now when I go all the way down on the throttle, it kills it. Of course, you could just splice into the wiring to add a new kill or move the existing kill by extending the wire. I'll post pics if you'd like.

Thanks, Pokes, I'd like to see a pic if possible. I couldn't envision what was being discussed with the mounting studs, but if I do this then I'll probably figure it out. I had to buy a new Echo string trimmer and Stihl chainsaw so things are tight at the moment, but the price of that engine only goes up so I should just do it. Any issues taking off the drive pulleys? Thanks!!

This is the engine in Honda's 1011 RER, great engine. I just installed one on a Bobcat commercial walk behind.

No issues taking the pulley off. I'd start hitting the two hex head bolts on the key with some penetrating oil now. Also, once the old engine is off, mark the location of the shaft inside the pulley. It'll eliminate the need for adjustment on the new shaft.

ha, I just got a new echo trimmer too. Why was I ever messing with the inferior box store trimmers before?

Thanks,Lovethempokes,I haven't posted in a few weeks about the Snapper rer Honda conversion.Dale: the Briggs has 4 open holes for mounting,it uses 4 bolts,4 nuts,the forward(towards the seat)2 holes on the Honda engine are blind,the bolts screw into the case, you can use 2 shorter bolts and screw them into the case,picking up the belt guide. This is difficult due to close quarters and lining up the bolt and hole etc. I used 2 5/16 studs 1 " long on each end,one end must be 5/16x24 the other must match the nuts you will use.Snapper used the Honda 340 and 390 on the RER,281123HVE and 331323HVE,the parts list for these models have a ton of electrical systems and schematic info,also Honda specific parts,wire harnesses,Ign switch throttle cable,etc.I recently saw a factory 3313 on e bay and the picture showed a one piece bumper,and the exhaust outlet cleared, don't know if it was the 33" bumper or the 42" bumper.I'm still using the washers on both top and bottom.Be careful removing the drive disc,I bent mine ouch! $60.I found a 1&1/8x12 bolt 3"long for $6 new,greased the threads and end,used a pipe wrench on the shaft and got it off with no further damage.The bracket on the drivers R/H side needs the bolts reversed with the bolt heads up and nuts down,it may still hit a little but is probably ok.As far as I know the main difference between the 28" and the 33" is the pulley on the drive disc,and the 2 idler pulleys on the deck, and well the blade and belt.

To continue: the oil filter is very close to the brake/clutch cable and some wiring,the stock Honda is around 3" dia. & $12. I use a 2.65.diameter filter,I caught a lot of flack for recommending a Wal mart ST7317 @$3,so I'll post the "name brand equivalents"AC PF2112 PF1127 STP S6607 Wix 51357,there's also a Fram but I don't recommend it,I'm happy with the WALMART one.I changed the pull starter so it pointed toward the oil filler tube,instead of forward,makes it easier to reach the throttle, just took off the 4 nuts turned it and replaced nuts.Some Honda engines don't have the throttle kill switch.They were selling for $300,including shipping,last winter,they are higher now.You should also turn the Briggs upside down and let the shaft/disc soak

I replaced the old engine on my Snapper RER, after a lot of every summer and fall usage. It was worn out! Since 1983! Gave good service, with plenty of good care. Finally said:"Thats it, buddy, i need a rest"! A Briggs and Stratton!
It mowed a lot of grass, and chopped and bagged a plethora of dried oak leaves, and pulled lots of cart loads!
So, i then found a much newer Briggs, and used it as a replacement. did i impress anybody, by installing the newer Briggs----Noooo. did i have to mess with rejiggling the mounting, the controls, the attachments?----Nooo! Could i brag about installing a Honda engine???? NOOO!
Do i have a machine that is easy to find parts for, and fix easily? Yep! Did i have any problems with installing the Briggs? Nooo! Am i happy with my repowered Snapper Hi-vac Rider!? Yesss!

I don't want to get into a Briggs vs. Honda discussion - I have a 1979 Honda motorcycle that's great and I had a 2004 Honda ST1300 touring bike that was head and shoulders above a Harley for comfort, technology, smoothness, power and still delivered almost 60 miles per gallon for a 750 lb bike.

One thing I hate about the Briggs is the REALLY LOUD MUFFLER - I know that's Snappers deal, though, but I wouldn't mind a quieter engine. If the Briggs and Honda were priced the same (I don't see a pull only Briggs at small engine warehouse to have a fair comparison) I'd probably just go Briggs again to make things easier. I may also see what the local Farm Supply store has in stock - when you add over $50 for shipping that kind of evens the playing field.

Do you guys think the 11 hp Honda is fine turning the 33" blade?

I also have a little Ariens Fairway 6 hp RER that would be fun to repower, but there's less than zero info on how to try that.

If you want quiet, Honda is the way to go,it's much quieter than the 9 HP Briggs,I had before. 11HP should be ok,some of the early 33' RER's had 8HP.

I'm also going to avoid the Honda v. Briggs debate by stating this: the only reason I went with the Honda is because of the ebay deal I found. I am willing to put any major brand on this mower so long at it works reliably. Briggs, Tecumseh, Kawasaki, Honda, Kohler, whatever...I just want it to mow.

Dale, here's a feeble attempt at showing you the kill switch mod I mentioned previously. I tried to shoot pics of my setup but even with the fuel tank pulled, it was impossible to show you. In the following picture you'll see the location of the kill switch on your specific engine. You must push it in towards the carb to kill the engine. This is actually designed to be pushed in and killed when you throttle down all the way. Our (at least MY) mower does not have the stroke distance on the cable to kill it. So, just drill a hole where the throttle is supposed to hit the kill button, stick a small bolt in the hole and place a nut on each side of the throttle lever. This will allow you to adjust how far you have to throttle down to kill the engine. I'm pretty sure it's just as easy to splice in a different or additional kill switch on the "dash"

[IMG]http://i828.photobucket.com/albums/zz204/pokeswin/honda%20340%20engine/MakeJpeg.jpg[/IMG]

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:325017}}

Thanks pokes. I haven't done anything yet with my machine because I've been able to mow with the Briggs for the moment. I had pulled the carb and bought a rebuild kit, but never changed out the jets - I just cleaned them. After changing the jets it seems to run much better, BUT the engine floods with fuel if it sits too long, so a fuel shutoff needs to go inline.

My property is a bit hilly and rolling and so the 33 inch deck scalps in quite a few places. I'm thinking of a RER with a smaller deck and so may sell this when I find another.

In any event, I've printed out all of this thread as a guide for the switchover if/when I do it. I appreciate all the help, and appreciate that there are people out there who don't just throw away and go buy new because it's easier. Cheers to all!

hazelton - best chk the crankcase oil in that "flooding" engine.. if you have raw fuel in the oil, there will not be sufficient lubrication aka engine lockup/dies.
Pull dipstick - do the fuel smell test - if present, change oil and oil filter BEFORE running engine again.

Right you are. I just took out the plug and pulled the rope till no more fuel blew out, but don't know how much slipped past the rings while sitting.

The motor still dies before I get the lawn done so I suspect the head needs to be decarbon-ed.

might want to invest in an inline fuel shutoff valve - install/use same. Inexpensive insurance....

I put a shut off in line before the carb. But one needs to remember to use it.

I went to start the rider a couple of weeks ago and saw that I never closed the valve. So I took out the plug and proceded to pull the starter cord to clear the cylinder. The magneto wire must have been touching the muffler (even though the key was off) and I was greeted with a giant ball of flame shooting out of the engine and any gas that had dripped out of the head when I pulled the plug caught flame. LUCKILY I keep an extinguisher right by the garage door and the flames were out in a few seconds. I let everything dry off and the engine was no worse for the wear, but I did learn a valuable lesson. USE THE FUEL SHUTOFF ALWAYS!

amen, bro...

got a 17 hp bs 311707 type 0132e1 code 9809087e on a RER snapper 28085s high vac having problems with electrical connections has two wires off stator one is 14 v ac the other is 3 amp dc. Any wiring gurus out there to help me hook up the snapper wiring kill switches? Snapper has three , the key kill one wire to ground, interlock to shift lever prevents starting in gear, three wires red brown black, direct start button no solenoid. no wiring diagrams found