Just how old is that battery? If more than two years old, it is probably good only as a "core" now. Do you have a way to try a boost start using jumper cables to a car? If so, boosting from a known good vehicle is one way of determining if your battery shot its last crank from the recent activity.
Another thing you need to check carefully is for corrosion/rust at any of the connections on your battery cables. This means you check and clean the cable ends at the battery, both cable ends on the solenoid, the cable end on the starter, and the negative cable end where it attaches to the frame or engine. Storing a piece of machinery indoors may not be an option for some folks but storing outdoors can be very damaging. There is a good chance that mice may have eaten electrical insulation off of the ignition wiring (kill wire or spark plug wire or both) under the engine sheet metal shrouding.
You say the engine does not fire, but have you actually checked to see if it is making a spark on the plug?
If it is not sparking, then you certainly need to look for mouse eaten wiring.
If it does make spark, but will not run, try spraying a shot of spray carb cleaner into the open throat of the carb to see if it will run for a second or 2 on that fluid.
If the engine wants to run on a short burst of carb cleaner, you better plan on cleaning the carb.
But first you gotta get it to crank, so try that boost start trick.

"Now, when I turn the key, nothing but a single "thunk" sound and the engine does not spin. The lights do work. Put the battery on the charger again for about an hour, same problem."

I'm having this exact same problem on a 917.257740. If I leave the key on long enough, the fuse blows. Wiring to the fuse and the battery cables are both very hot to touch once that happens.

Please help!!!! Thanks.

***"I'm having this exact same problem on a 917.257740."***
Then you need to check the exact same things I recommended to the original poster of this thread.

IMO lights don't draw the ampree the starter does so often times we see bright lights, but the engine won't crank do to an low voltage problem (usually grounding lead bad connection or batt. cable corroded internal) I kind of dought the starter is bad. Before I buy a new one I would remove it clean it and test if off the engine providing none of this previous poster advice worked.

along with mowie advise after you clean you battery connections at each end and verify you connected the battery up correctly I would Remove the spark plugs or plug and see if it spins easily and watch for raw gas shooting out in a mist? especially if I smelt raw gas (if so your carb. float maybe sticking flooding the comb. chamber and wetting the spark plugs if it is a gravity feed fuel system?

Now Attach the spark plugs or plug and ground it out against metal head, crank it over and make sure you have spark. If so? prime the comb chamber or chambers by spraying carb. cleaner directly into the spark plug holes. install the plugs and it should fire right off. more or less repeat of Mowie advice, but maybe different route getting there.

Well, I did check the same things and everything appeared OK.

Solved the fuse-blowing issue, though. Had a wire that the insulation was rubbed away right at the fuse holder itself, and looked like it could have touched several of the metal pieces near it pretty easily, so I temporarily removed the fuse holder and wired the two leads together to see if it would help my other issue. It did not, so I replaced the fuse holder and the fuses no longer blow.

Starting issue- I hooked the mower to my car with jumper cables and got it to start. To me, this eliminates the starter and solenoid. Once it was started, it would not run for more than a few minutes before it dies. Once that happens, there isn't even enough juice in the battery to light the headlights. So that confuses me. I would think that if my alternator was worthwhile, the mower would run until it ran out of gas even without a battery. However, I DID have a car once that had a perfectly good alternator in it but it would not stay running because the battery was bad.

So, my battery is at O'Reilly Auto right now getting the 1 hour plus charge and load test to determine if it is any good. I know for sure it is a 2007 battery, so I'm thinking that it might be a good idea to replace it even if it checks out. Especially since they are on sale for only $20 right now.

If the battery doesn't work, I'm starting to suspect my ignition switch. It is a bit beat up looking and you can pull the key out of it while it is running and it will still run. Am wondering if a faulty ignition switch could be the culprit IF the battery checks out.

Thoughts on this theory?

The key switch is good also in respect to your being able to boost start it from your car. The battery may in fact be bad (OhOhOh O'Riley oughta tell you the scoop on that) but as you noted, there is something fishy about the alternator output. The scenario I think about how you boosted it only to have it die some minutes later is this: The short lived charge imparted to your old (and likely defective) battery was just enough to power the fuel solenoid on the carburetor for a couple of minutes. When the battery voltage dropped below what the fuel solenoid will operate on, the solenoid closed and the engine died.
You need to fill in some blanks. Actually, mat this time you should create your own thread because the engine in the OP's tractor is a Tecumseh and apparently the engine in your 917.257740 is a Kohler. If we keep on pursuing your problem in this thread it may get confusing as to which posted problem is being referenced at a given time. Or to put it another way, addressing multiple current problems in one thread is like having a conference phone call where everybody is trying to talk at the same time. Start a new thread and post some engine numbers from the engine please. The info available from Sears is totally useless for this kind of diagnosis/trouble shooting. If we can get the Kohler engine identified, the Kohler website has excellent online service manuals, for free!

Absolutely. Sorry to hijack this thread. Thought our similar issues might help us both solve the problem, but I agree that we are talking about different engines (and probably different causes as well).

Thank you for your help.

New thread listed below:

Here is a link that might be useful: New thread

I am the original poster - here is an update:

I took Mownie's advice, purchased a new battery and battery hardware. I cleaned the battery cable ends with sandpaper to bare metal.

Prior to trying to start the engine, I looked everything over in the engine compartment. All along, I smelled gas and noticed that the heat shield for the muffler was wet (as if fuel had leaked through the muffler). I wiped everything down good before trying to start the engine.

At first when i turned the key the motor wouldn't spin. I tried the key again and everyhting seemed to "unfreeze" and the engine spun but wouldn't catch.I then pulled the spark plug and it was black in color and wet, so I replaced the sparkplug.

I then tried to start, engine cranked, sputtered, and finally started. Smoke started billowing out from the muffler, so I immediately shut everything down. I then noticed fuel spilling out a pretty good rate from the air cleaner housing. After removing the housing, I removed the air cleaner (which was soaked in fuel) and I could see fuel collected on the bottom of the air cleaner housing.

What should I do next? When I drained the fuel from the carb bowl initially did I not put the screw back in correctly?

Footnote: As I mentioned at first, the tractor was stored outside under a black tractor cover all winter (with mothballs). When I took the cover off for the first time it was a warm day and I smelled gas but didn't think much of it thinking it was evaporation due to the heat. When I went to change the fuel filter, I thought it was odd that no fuel leaked from the hose on the tank side. I then checked the tank and it was dry, which was also odd because I know I filled it to avoid evaporation before storage for the winter.

I trying to "connect the dots" but I'm struggling. Again,I'm not an engine mechanic but I am a little handy and can turn a wrench. I do all my maintenance myself but I do not have engine experience.

Thanks again to everyone for their help.

"I would Remove the spark plugs or plug and see if it spins easily and watch for raw gas shooting out in a mist? especially if I smelt raw gas (if so your carb. float maybe sticking flooding the comb. chamber and wetting the spark plugs if it is gravity feed fuel system"?

that comment was meant for you the orginal poster! Did you not read it? I think you answered your own questions. I filled the gas tank before storage and now there was not gas in it? Muffler was wet? when I changed the fuel filter odd no fuel in line? I'm too lazy to look up the model you posted, does it have a fuel pump or is the gas tank above the engine?

I would quess that the carb. float stuck and leaked all the gas out through the exhaust ( if the exhaust valve was open during storage? I would also check the oil for gas in it. A good sign would be it way over filled or you smell gas in the oil. IF so drain the oil and refill. Now I would go back to the carb. find out why it leaking gas? probably the float needle not seating alowing gas to seep pass. I also think the reason it wouldn't turn over was the cylinder or cylinders was full of gas causing a hydraulic seizure. I would remove the carb. bowl again (if you can reseal it without creating a leak) spray down the float and seat with carb. and any small passages you see. install the bowl, prime it and see if it will run. You may have to prime it several times till the bowl fills up with fuel.

OK, the first thing you need to do is quit putting gas in the tank until you get the carburetor fixed. You must not run the engine any further until the contaminated oil in the crankcase has been changed, and a new oil filter (if equipped). Lastly, get an inline fuel shutoff valve at a small engine shop or even a well stocked home improv center may have them. Install the shutoff valve between the fuel filter and the fuel tank. Train yourself (whatever it takes) to always turn off the fuel valve whenever the engine is not running. Start adding the recommended amount of Marvel Mystery Oil to your fuel supply, also add fuel stabilizer to your supply. This is insurance against more fuel related problems later on.
Anyhow, you're actually not too far from getting this under control. I wish you had mentioned the gas detail in your first post, we would be way ahead of this point if you had. Most people would have typically put the gas leak/smell at the top of the list. I'm gonna have to get my ESP tuned up :^)

OK, I appreciate everyone's help. I can handle the oil change, installation of the fuel shut-off, but I have no experience working on carbs...could someone give me step-by-step on what to do, what things look like, etc...I don't know what a float needle is or how to identify it.How do I prime a carb?

Many thanks.

OK, I've looked at a few websites to get a picture for a Tecumseh carb. I think I can handle this - looks kinda simple...should I plan on replacing the bowl gasket and get one ahead of time?

There isn't a primer bulb on this (it's a tractor) so how do I prime the carb?

When I replace the bowl nut, how far in should I screw it? I originally tightened it gently until I felt resistance and then backed it off a bit? Is that right?

Thanks.

Gasket? By all means, get one if available.
Bowl nut? What you actually were turning may be the adjustable main jet. The bowl nut should have another way to loosen it, like maybe a really large flat blade screwdriver. The bowl mounting nut should be snugged up pretty tight, not a double fisted tight, just a good tight twist, about like how you tighten the cap on a 2 liter soda when you want to make sure it will not leak. The adustable jet should be barely bottomed out (not much more than finger tip pressure) and then backed out approx. 1.5 turns.
Priming? Don't worry about priming! In the case of this carb..........it will self prime! It emptied a full tank of gas by gravity, that demonstrates it will self prime when you fill the tank and open your new shutoff valve. Don't let the prime word trouble your sleep, it is a non issue for your tractor.

Thanks Mownie for all your help, couple more questions:

When I remove the bowl nut ahould the bowl just come out with a gentle pull? I'll assume that all my carb spraying is from above (?). When I spray down the carb do I have to disassemble anything? How should I handle all the fuel in the bottom of the air cleaner assembly - just soak it up with a rag?

Once everything is complete, should I assume that there will be some smoke at engine startup? How long is it safe to run it for before I need to worry about starting a fire or some other problem with fuel that may still be in the muffler and muffler piping?

Is the whole thing this simple? Again, not having the experience with any of this makes it seem like a big issue, but maybe it's not - obviously I'm not experienced in this.

Duhhh?!

Read through this before you begin. You will do best if the carb is off the engine and on a work bench or other suitable surface. I like to do the work in a large baking pan, less likely for something to roll off and get lost.
Refer to the image below. I have added the item # 40.5 for the nut that secures the bowl to the carb. When you remove item 40.5 the bowl should simply pull straight off, you may need to tap the bowl lightly with a plastic screwdriver handle or similar "persuader" to break it loose.
Pay attention to what you are doing, my standard advice is use a digital camera and shoot a lot of photos of the carb before you take things loose. And continue to photograph more as you remove items, this will give you something to refer to later WHEN you forget how something was.
Have a sheet of paper (or a whole notepad) and write notes, draw sketches, anything to record the details.
After the bowl is off, you need to pull out item # 27 to release the float. (you are taking pictures of this aren't you?) The needle valve (item # 30) should lift out of the seat when you pick up the bowl, but it may come loose, so watch it carefully. Pay close attention to the orientation of item # 31 spring clip (more pictures please).
Now, I want you to look at items # 17, and 20. # 17 is the IDLE SPEED screw.....do not touch this screw, it sets the low idle RPM only and it's not necessary to mess with it during the cleaning.
But # 20, the idle mixture screw, needs to be removed BUT before you remove it, you need to count the number of turns (and fraction of turns) in the CLOCKWISE direction that are required to just barely seat the screw to the bottom of the threaded hole. Write down the number on your note paper, this will be the number of turns CCW you will use as the initial setting when you assemble the carb after cleaning.
After the float is off, the needle valve is out, and the idle mixture screw has been "counted" and removed you will proceed to clean the carb. Eye protection is mandatory when using spray carb cleaner, so use the proper safety goggle or face shield. Solvent proof rubber or vinyl gloves are good too. Do the cleaning outdoors or in good ventilation only. No smoking!
Using spary carb cleaner (like Carb Medic, example)and the nozzle straw, spray the carb cleaner into every darn hole you see. Using a very fine piece of wire (the bare kind like used on parts tags) and poke it into all the holes to manually dislodge blockage, be careful not to break the wire off in a passage. Spray more cleaner through all the holes. If you have access to compressed air, blow out all the holes and passages. If you don't have compressed air, just let the carb dry thoroughly before reassembling. All the loose parts (bowl, mixture screw, float) need to be cleaned to remove any gunk or varnish film from them. Be careful not to bend any parts of the float where its pin goes or where the needle touches the float.
After all is clean and dry, assembly is the reverse of the tear down.
And don't forget to change the engine lube oil and filter before you try to run this engine again.
Any gas that has appeared in the air cleaner can be mopped out with paper towels, put them outside with a weight on them so the wind won't get them, after the gas evaporates you can toss them into your OUTSIDE trash can.
Smoke? Yeah, good possibility. Have the machine outdoors when you restart it. Fire is unlikely (most of the volatiles will be evaporated by then) but you may see some black specks of oil and carbon emerge from the exhaust outlet. That should clear up in 5 minutes or so. May lady luck be holdin' yer hand!

{{gwi:325160}}

Now rustyj, you cut that out! ROF LMAO!

Don't worry about the smoke on start up, If it starts see if it will run or at least long enough to see if you got any gas leaks, If not run the SHyt out of it providing you got proper level of oil in it?.

Tec carb. are known for tarnishing up or gumming up, That's why they invented GUMOUT carb. cleaner (read the instruction on the can) and additive to keep the carbs. on anything thats got a carb. from gumming up. Your problem most likely is the needle and seat (30, main jet (40) and possible the Float (28) could have pin hole in it causing it not to float!?? Yes, it nice to have new gaskets/o-rings, but if you don't tear them (29)especially you can just reuse it if you know how to seal it back without pinching it.

Ask anybody that had HOLLEY, autolite(motorcraft), carter, quadra-jet, or Rochestor carberators. Even the simple ball single and two barrel carb. gumup, it is the nature of carb. design especially whengas sets in the fuel bowls for long periods of time plugs up all the tiny passages.

By the way, "Mowie" should be commended for his copying and pasting abilities of diagrams, IPBs, and willness to go the extra mile to help out. People like him is what makes these forums and why they are so popular! Thank you, I come here most of the time just to read your comments.

Mownie, many thanks again for all of your time and effort on this. I now feel confident to move forward on this.

Hopefully I can return the favor to someone else in a similar way someday.

Thanks again!

Thanks guys, I just get a kick out of helping folks (for a number of reasons). I have made a career out of auto/truck/forklift mechanic-ing and I still enjoy the craft.

New Twist:
Mine sat for 2.5 years (Out of work; couldn't deal with it then and had a Farmall to mow with). 2 days ago I got back to it to find that the v-belt had jumped a spool. During that fix, I drained the old gas and put some new in. I know I should have also drained the oil, but low on funds...
I jump started it, which took a few tries, but it did start up and sounded pretty good with no smoke. I decided to 'give it a go', but after a few yards it stalled. I thought perhaps it needed more gas (I was on a slight angle). Now all it does is make a click/thunk when I turn the key, even with it jumped (I know it hasn't run enough to charge the battery, if it's going to take one).
Could cunky oil have damaged something? Too much load due to old oil? I could use some help getting this going as the Farmall isn't running right now, either...

***"Mine sat for 2.5 years"***
This is probably going to be a bitter pill to swallow, 2.5 years standing dormant. 2.5 years for mice to build nests in the cooling fins is a very likely scenario here.
The "click/thunk....even when jumped" gives me the impression that the engine may have overheated and seized if mice have packed the cooling shroud with stuffing.
I hope I'm wrong. You need to remove the spark plug, and the flywheel/fan cover and try to turn the engine by hand (using a socket on the flywheel nut).
Once you have the flywheel cover off you might be able to see some evidence of "rat packing".

There was no sign of mice packing the cooling shroud. I can turn the fan blades by hand, if that's a good enough sign. Or do I need to go deeper to make sure the engine is turning? It did run for a few moments/couple of minutes (had to jump it twice due to miscue on keeping it running the 1st time).

OK, well, that's a relief (no mice). Fan turning by hand is proof enough the innards are not seized.
The click/thump may all be due to that questionable battery.
I've seen batteries that have sat discharged long enough that they can't be revived, and attempts to jump from a donor vehicle/boost pack can even be compromised by a battery that has shorted cells (danger of exploding too).
Hopefully, the short run time is only due to crud in the float bowl and carb passages from the old gas standing all that time. You are very likely going to have to dismantle the carb and clean it out.
If you can get the battery situation straightened out where it cranks reliably, try spraying some carb cleaner into the carb throat when the engine dies. If it fires right back up and runs a couple seconds on each burst of spray, you definitely have a "lack of fuel" problem.