look under the tilting seat into that area and look for a plate/decal with the tractor's full model number and serial number..

I have looked under the seat (bottom of seat after tilting it up & the area beneath the seat when the seat is in its regular position). Should I pull the battery and look there? Otherwise, what are my options? Thank you for helping.

I believe that's a Montgomery Wards machine - mid 90's - you might try a google search to run down a model number... and it's a good possibility that machine was actually manufactured for M/W by MTD.

You re right it was a M/W model, I'll try that. Thanks.

Not sure how to narrow down the possibilities, what should I include in the search string?

"18hp 42" Powr Kraft Limited Addition Tractor"

Assuming the engine is original, the date code of the engine would establish the production year of the tractor, but only with about 6 months or so accuracy.

I found the manual and know the parts I need - does anyone have a particularly good experience with sellers that I may contact?

Hi,

Thanks for your reply.
I need to adjust the combination of belt tension and cutting height but don't see how to do it. I need to have more belt tension when the deck is in the second notch down.
Could you give me any hints on how to adjust belt tension?
Also, since your post mentions that you have the manual, can I purchase a email attachment copy of it?
Thanks

Jack Palmer

Jack, the adjustment you need to make is easy once you locate the rod. If you wish, you can remove the console cover to see better. Just ahead of the R rear wheel, you will see a rod with clip on the outside. This rod goes to the main lift linkage w/ a trunnion on it. Remove the clip and rotate the rod 2 turns CCW (from the back) and give it a try. This rod is will give you the position tension you want unless the belt is wrong or worn. There isn't another tension adjustment.

I recently picked up a used Powr Kraft riding mower with a Briggs engine. It has a flat tire on the right rear. Luckily, the previous owner had a spare that he gave to me. Unluckily, I can't seem to get the wheel off of the axle. I have removed the bolt and washer from the axle, and expected that the wheel would just slide off. No luck with that. I have tried a puller, with no success, and am looking for advice before I do some real damage. Thanks

that tire and rim assy most likely is held on by a C clip and a square hex key... all nicely rusted to the axle. Might try some good rust penetrator such as PB blaster - soak it down good let it sit over nite then try working it loose.
But careful - too much yanking/banging on that axle may unseat the internal C clips securing the axle to the tranny!

A bit of heat judiciously applied to the rusted bore may also help - just remember most of the penetrating liquids are flammable...

Patience, persistence, perseverance.. and some no-seize when you get it back together :)

Everything rcbe said is unfortunately true in most cases.
There is no guarantee that the hub will turn loose from the axle shaft.

You did not mention any "obvious major damage" to the tire that is flat. If the tire is not gashed or otherwise "compromised", you may be just as well off to put a bottle of Slime tire sealant in that tire and use the tire "as is". Slime brand sealant is sold in various stores and comes in formulations for tubed and tubeless configurations. You just follow the simple instructions on the bottle and requires no special tools (but you must have a source of compressed air to fill the tire). If you can't use the Slime for some reason, read on.

If the "spare" that came with the tractor is already mounted to a wheel, you may consider taking the tire off of that wheel. Then dismount the flat tire from the wheel on the tractor WHILE IT IS STILL ON THE TRACTOR and remount the spare tire the same way. That option has been used in some cases like your situation.
There have been cases where people have hammered on the insides of the wheel trying to get the wheel off and caused the axle shaft retainer clips to let go of the axle inside the transaxle (requiring the trans case to be opened to replace clip). One of those cases was reported on this forum and the member took the axle shaft and wheel to a shop with a press to get the wheel off the axle shaft (since the trans was opened anyway).
Even using a shop press to separate the wheel from the axle resulted in destroying the wheel (but it did come loose from the axle).
Keeping that specific incident in mind.....if I was faced with your situation I would first try to deal with changing the tire with the wheel staying mounted to the tractor.

Thanks to both of you for the advice. I wasn't aware of the possible issue with the axle retainer clip. I don't need that kind of headache! As it happens, I have some Slime, and I know that the tire will hold air for a limited amount of time, so I think that I will give that a try. By the way, can you recommend a source for owners manuals and/or repair manuals for this tractor? Thanks, John

John - try this (no guarantees - chk it out to be the right one for you..)

Here is a link that might be useful: manual

Thanks.
That seems to be the tractor that I have. I always feel better knowing that I have the manual for equipment that I am using.

before adding the Slime, examine the sidewall of the bad tire. If the sidewall of the tire is cracked, the leak may be too much for the slime to seal.

If this is the case, an inner tube may be another option. The previous comments are correct that you will need to work this with the wheel installed on the tractor. Here are probable costs:

Slime $10.00
tube $25.00
tire $70.00

This is a really old thread but im hoping it can help. I have the 18.5/42 instead of the 18/42. I cant find a manual but i need a ball joint. Mechanics tell me they know what i need, but they send me one for the 18/42 and its too small.