If the crank bolt prevents the center bearing of the clutch from turning, maybe there's a spacer missing somewhere.

Thanks for you answer, But it does not help me because there
was no spacer in first, but I will try putting in a spacer
and try it. Thanks again

I installed a couple of electric pto's this week following engine removal for sump gasket replacement. The washer on the crank bolt should seat on the inner bearing on the clutch, this way it rotates with the crankshaft. Is there a washer under your bolt, or are you using just the bolt?

I do have GT6000 with a horizontal M20 on it, I could look more closely at it tomorrow.

"The washer on the crank bolt should seat on the inner bearing on the clutch, this way it rotates with the crankshaft. Is there a washer under your bolt, or are you using just the bolt? "

OR perhaps the washer is so big that it is jamming against the OUTER bearing race.

Walt Conner

After reading many forum questions and answers about PTO clutch problems, I replaced the clutch on my Husqvarna LTH 145 (954140006C). The job went well - many thanks to a lot of individuals who provided key pieces of information.
My problem started with mower blades bogging down under load with no drop in engine speed; I also had a few instances of the blades taking too long to stop.
The belt was ok and the voltage at the PTO clutch was full regulated battery voltage so I felt confident the clutch was bad.
I purchased a Warner replacement clutch from one of the several on-line suppliers; the price was about 33% below Husqvarna for the same clutch.
I borrowed an air impact wrench (already owned a tank) and was lucky enough to remove the old clutch without breaking the bolt. The drive pulley also came off and I used penetrating oil to separate the old clutch from the drive pulley.
After lightly greasing the shaft, the drive pully and new clutch went back together easily; be sure to hold the clutch up on the shaft while you start the bolt or the whole assembly will fall back down. Be sure to get the clutch locator tab into a slot in the clutch housing to prevent rotation. The new clutch came with a couple of important points specified by Warner: be sure there is a
little rotational and vertical play between the locator tab and the clutch to prevent premature bearing failure and be sure to follow the recommended torque specification for your bolt (provided on a sheet that came with the clutch, in my case it was 50-55 ft. lbs).
I borrowed a torque wrench and used a 12" adjustable open end wrench to hold the shaft nut while tightening the bolt. I'm sure this is not the tool a pro would use but I had no special tool for the job and the 12" wrench worked just fine.
After reassembling the belt and mower deck, my owners manual said to break in the new clutch by starting and stopping it 10 times at full throttle to properly wear in the clutch surfaces. I did that and everything worked ok. My mower now performs like new. The old clutch lasted over 10 years; hopefully the new one will too.