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grass1950

Need Advice on Bolt Removal

grass1950
10 years ago

I'm in the process of tearing down a mower deck. Owners manual link is attached. Exploded parts diagram is in Section 6, page 10 (6-10).
I am having problems with removing bolt part# 24. Carriage style bolt that goes through a steel sleeve on the frame support (part# 5.
I started with spraying PB Blaster every couple of hours, the first day. Second day, I alternated between heating for 30-60 seconds, allowing to cool and spraying PB and tapping with ballpeen.
Today I heated the sleeve for three minutes--hot but not cherry. Once heated the impact wrench loosened the left side bolt. The right side bolt still will not budge.
Any ideas and proceedure I can use. Any advice, ideas suggestions, much appreciated.

Here is a link that might be useful: Manual and parts for MD60.

Comments (21)

  • rcbe
    10 years ago

    Grass - have you got enuff room to get in there with a recip saw loaded with a metal cutting blade and just cut off the bolt right at/behind the nut - drive the rest of the old bolt out with a punch and replace with a new bolt/nut?

  • grass1950
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    rcbe,
    I could cut the head of (I do have the nut off) Problem with driving it out, is I can't get enough room on the nut side to get at the bolt and if I cut the head and try to drive it from that end, there isn't enough room for the bolt to travel more than about half way out. I suppose I could just keep cutting it off and driving. The other issue is it doesn't seem to budge even with a three pound sledge. I'd hate to loose the head and not be able to fall back on the impact wrench.
    What else do you have? :)

  • justalurker
    10 years ago

    Use a small propane torch and heat to the point of spit boiling, apply PB or such, and let it cool. You'll most likely need to repeat too many times and it will get really frustration but it's the best way..

    That's a sizable bolt so repeated (to the point of frustration) applications of heat (but NOT to the point of red hot) and PB Blaster or Kroil is the way to go for a DIYer.

    This post was edited by justalurker on Thu, May 2, 13 at 15:23

  • rcbe
    10 years ago

    Ditto on JAL's recipe given yer space constraints. Patience and a Good set of work gloves.

  • wheely_boy
    10 years ago

    I would use a dremmell; cut through it till you can drive it out.

  • grass1950
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Went with the alternating heat and PB route. Patience.

  • mownie
    10 years ago

    Be sure to sing the "Anti-seize compound song" during reassembly.

  • grass1950
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Ended up drilling a 7/64 hole in the middle of the sleeve. 3 days later after copious heating a nd PB applications, it broke loose today. Now I find out that the manufacturer no longer makes the shims to adjust the height of the quill. I quess I'm back to using washers between the deck and quill, or placing a washer between the blade and the face of the spindle shaft if I can find one large enough. Any suggestions? I can at least take the deck to get it welded.
    Mownie, I plan to use the version of the song sung by "grease."
    Thanks all for your input.

  • justalurker
    10 years ago

    Grease degrades over time. Anti-seize does not. Dance to the right tune or you'll be back singing the same song you were singing a few days ago.

    There was a time when gaskets and shims were far and few between... you can get shim stock and make your own shims if you want it done right.

  • grass1950
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    JAL,
    Do you have a name brand for anti seize? Is it available at auto parts stores? Where might I get shim stock? Thanks.

  • mownie
    10 years ago

    If you go to an auto parts house and ask for "Never seize" or just anti seize, they will know what you mean.
    Shim stock can also usually be obtained at many "good" parts houses and automotive machine shops, but if I was trying to replace those "no longer available" shims, I would be heading to a bearing supply house and see what spacer washers they have available that matches the dimensions of the necessary shims.
    Shim stock usually comes in sheets (like paper) and is cut with scissors or shears (depending on the thickness).
    If you need to shim something .125" it makes better sense to get a 1/8 spacer washer instead of stacking 12 shims @ .010" each.

  • lkbum_gw
    10 years ago

    Check McMaster Carr for,shims., if it's made, they will have it. Www.mcmaster.com or see link.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Link to mcmaster carr

  • grass1950
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thanks for the heads up guys. Think I'm going to take a break for Mother's Day. Going need a couple of guys' help anyway to move it to get under it anyway.

  • grass1950
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Just got the deck back from the welder who fixed the rusted out areas. Could have bought a new walk behind for what it cost, but he did a great job with the repair. Now to repaint and start assemly using never seize.
    Any problem with my using loctite blue for the nuts?

  • justalurker
    10 years ago

    Anti-seize and the proper torque on the nuts should do just fine.

  • grass1950
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thanks JL, any harm is loctite for the belt and suspeners effect?

  • rcbe
    10 years ago

    Grass - if you know yer way around prep/paint, fine. if not, read on..
    Clean is name of game, first. No weld slag/oil/ etc. Good exception time to use power washer. Then sand surf to get a bite for primer.Blow off clean. apply good primer and sand again to get more tooth for finish coat. Wipe down with mineral spirits. Apply finish coat. Let paint dry/cure per can instructions before doing anything else. Enjoy investment.

  • justalurker
    10 years ago

    Anti-seize and Loc-tite are diametrically opposed in their purpose so the question is... would they work and play well together? Lots of people oil bolts or spray them with WD or some other lube and then tighten them up not realizing that they are defeating the application of the proper torque and setting up a scenario where the bolt or nut will loosen.

    A nut or bolt properly torqued will not loosen... it's just that simple.

    Do you use a torque wrench and them put a box wrench on the nut and pull hard just to make sure the nut is tight?

  • grass1950
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Ok I see where the problem is. Only two bolts go through a sleeve (4") and those are the ones that I had problems removing. Those two are the only ones I would use anti-zeize on and just torque. The other bolts were no pfoblem removing and I would expect them to be no problem in the future. These are short bolts, some are galvenized steel. They hold the quills, the roller to the arms, hold various pieces of the deck together and the carriage to the deck.These I did not plan on using anti-seize but was wondering if loctite could be used to insure they don't vibrate lose.

  • rcbe
    10 years ago

    Grass Solution - Use stainless steel hardware, normal torque. No anit-sieze ever needed - no corrosion ever.

  • grass1950
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thanks for the advice rcbe. I'll see what 39 stainless steel bolts and nuts cost me--wife starting to give me the evil eye. Lol. It still beats $1900 for the deck shell or $3300 for a new complete deck. I also appreciate the advice on painting. You mention a couple steps I would have forgoten. .

    FYI he fabricated a shim for me to adjust the quill height. This gentleman does excellent work..The only problem is that I didn't account for the thickness of painting the shim as it is just plate stock.

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