It's the seat switch.
Bad, misadjusted or UNPLUGGED.
Period.

Bill, I appreciate your prompt response. My seat switch works to open the circuit when depressed, so being disconnected is the same as seat being occupied. But just in case that I'm thinking wrong, I have tried with the two leads (seat switch leads) shorted & open, with no change. That's all a (two wire) switch can do, open or close a circuit. The clutch/brake switch is more complicated with 4 wires. I suspect a bad switch or a disconnected (or broken) wire on the clutch/brake switch. I think I need to take a good hard look at it. I'm having a heart problem right now (probably because of working on the tractor for a week or so) so I'm not able to get under the tractor at this time (although I've spent a lot of time under it this past week), I'm 82 & my doctor told me this afternoon I'm going to have to take it easy for a few days. In the meantime, here in S. FL., the rainy season has started & the grass needs to be mowed once a week. Thank you for thinking about my problem.

Bill, it looks like you are right & I am wrong about this particular situation. I found one of your old posts where you explain about the special wire connection to the seat switch.

RE: Craftsman DYT4000 engine dies when you let out clutch in neut

Posted by bill_kapaun Z8 Orygun (My Page) on Fri, Jul 10, 09 at 15:11

Basically the engine kill circuit works when the "M" terminal of the key switch is grounded.
Also make sure the connector to the seat switch is fully plugged in. THAT connector is called a "shorting connector". WHEN UNPLUGGED, A METAL TAB SLIDES IN PLACE AND COMPLETES THE CIRCUIT, KILLING THE ENGINE. tHE SWITCH MUST BE "OPEN" FOR THE ENGINE TO RUN. Simply unplugging it, does not disable it.
I have never run into anything like that "shorting connector" before. I hope they were using that type of connector 17 years ago when they built mine. I'm not sure how I should proceed. I'll probably remove the switch from the seat, plug it in, & tape it in the compressed position. All this just to get the engine running so that I can try to find out what was smoking. try to fix that, and then test the hydro gear transaxle to see if the oil & filter change & the purging worked. Thank you very much. You are great to share your knowledge.

Has this problem been fixed? Could be a large stick lodged in the PTO belt path or blade swath. Does the mower try real hard to keep running once you depress the clutch/brake, or just shut down with ease? What color was the smoke poring from underneath?

There's probably over 150 different schematics for over 1000 different Craftsman tractors.
Do you expect us to guess which one?

Did you get this fixed? I have the same problem.

curtis and therd - there is a full technical model number that can be found on the tractor's ID plate - usually located in the cavity under the tilting seat. Post back with that info and we may be able to help. OTW, trying to provide specific answers is just a shot in the dark at best.

Craftsman tractors have at least over 200 different schematics.

The usual problem is RELATED TO the seat switch.
Often people will "jump" or disconnect the seat switch which more often as not, exacerbates the problem.

One needs to know the Sears 917.xxxxxx or similar number to look at the CORRECT schematic.
Failure to do so may result in costly problems, such as FRIED parts.

2012 YT3000 the wiring harness runs along the frame on the right side near the rear tire. A branch cought the harness and the tire chains graduly cought and broke all wires but the battery cable. So it was the seat in a round about way.

2012 YT3000 doesn't help a bit.
917.xxxxxx as found under the seat does.

Ripping out the wiring harness isn't the same thing as a bad switch.

Possibly the reverse mow switch if equipped?

Your schematic isn't close to what the OP has.

Best to start your own thread so the OP doesn't keep getting bombarded with notices about updates to HIS thread.

I have a Craftsman mower (917.271641) and I'm having issues keeping it running. Like others on this site, it stalls when I release the clutch/brake and/or pull up on the blade knob to engage the mower. I'm ordering a new switch for the seat just in case, but wanted to know if there is any other switch I should consider replacing?

Strangely I'm having an issue with the mower wanting to stall when I turn the steering wheel. I'm thinking it may have a short somewhere near the steering mechanism so I used electrical tape to protect and raise the wires away from the moving parts. Any suggestions there?

Encountered similar issue when engaging the mower blades. Locate the mower blade engagement safety switch (below the lever when in the dis-engaged position). I pulled the switch and found that water/dirt/mud from the right rear tire caused the safety switch plunger to not fully extend, thus causing sputtering, back firing, etc. I wiped the switch off and sprayed contact cleaner into the switch housing, re-installed and have not had any further issues.

FYI ---UPDATE

After removing the mower deck I was able to clearly see and feel exposed wires running to the rear of the mower. After replacing all four wires did the mower come back to life. Funny thing though, the seat switch, while depressed, did not allow the mower to run. It wasn't until after I pulled the switch out from beneath the seat did the mower turn on. The seat switch is somehow backwards. The great news is I was able to locate shorts in both the ground and seat switch wires which turned out to be the source of the stalling when releasing the brake/clutch, engaging the mower deck and when turning the steering wheel to the right. My advice is to look for exposed wires and replace them.

Look at your clutch interlock switch. It located on the frame of the left side(as if you are sitting on the mower) it is on the frame below the battery or at least it was on mt sears garden gt5000 tractor.