Did you hear a pop while mowing, follwed by a lack of motion? Or did it just not work one day when you went to start mowing?

Thanks. It just did not work one day. I had pulled (driven) it into the garage the last time I used it. Next time I manually pushed it backwards out of the garage, as usual, cranked it, and tried to move forward with the pedal it didn't move. I first checked the pedal mechanisms but the all seemed in order. I then noticed that the mower would move (i.e. could be pushed) even with the lever (mentioned above) pushed in.

Anybody had the rear tires/rims off the axle ? .. and then didn't put the axle shaft key(s) back in, letting rims spin on axle?

Okay, I don't *think* that's my problem, but I'm not ruling it our yet. I did recently have my right rear tire repaired. I removed it and re-mounted it myself. I just double checked, and if I remove the yellow soft plastic cap from both rear rims they look the same -- a flat washer on bottom and a "C" washer on top/outside. The yellow plastic cap then goes on. I don't have any other pieces - no other keys, etc. Have I missed a part in re-assembling it????? It'd be great if it were this easy -- aside from feeling a little silly.

I checked again and I don't see a problem. The right rear axle tip looks just like the one on the right. There are only two pieces that holds the tire/wheel onto the axle - a flat washer and a C-shaped locking washer (don't know what to call it).

I did roll the mower back and forth, and noticed that the axles rotate - on the left side it rotates with the tire/wheel; while on the right side it rotates opposite the tire/wheel.

Pull the right wheel and put a wheel key in it...

*** Pull the right wheel and put a wheel key in it... ***

Well, what do you know?? This was the problem. Apparently when I took the week off to have it repaired, the key stuck in the wheel (rather than on the axle). I never knew it was there. I'm guessing that it stayed with the wheel until I dropped it off at the tire repair place and then fell off while the tire was in their possession.

Now, for the benefit of others who may be in this same situation, it is possible to purchase a replacement. It's a generic part. I got mine at my local Ace Hardware. It cost $0.75. To be safe, I took off the other tire/wheel and took it and the other key with me to the hardware store. When I found the key I thought was the correct one I compared it to the one I took with me to the store. Also, once I bought it and got into the parking lot I tested the new one in the slot in the wheel. It fit great, but was a little shorter than the original, but worked fine.

Thanks to everyone for throwing around ideas (especially rcbe)! I can honestly say that you solved my problem.

Embarrassed to say I did the same thing. Lost the key. Read this solution, went out to the car, found the key. I'll put it in tomorrow. The entire search for a solution took less the five minutes.

I will caution folks to always try and get a key that is the same length as the OEM key if you are tempted to use a generic key (nothing wrong with that in axle keys).
Using a shorter key could lead to damage to the axle and hub keyways over time.
The shorter key does not spread the loading forces over as broad an area of contact as the OEM design intended.
Now, if we are talking 1/8" shorter on a 2 " OEM key you may never notice a difference.
But if a 1" key is substituted for a 2" OEM key, then I would almost guarantee some issues to arise, maybe even sheared keys and wallowed out keyways.

Thank you ....my key was left in my other tire...was very close to taking the transmission off

Hi All; Much like the fella with the tranny problem, I drove it to it's usual place next to my deck the last time I mowed a couple of weeks ago & it seemed fine. today when I went out to use it, It started, the blade runs fine, but with the forward / reverse pedal i get no movement. I tried the thing with the tranny pull pin as well and still no luck. Underneath it looks ok mechanically, but still no dice. If anyboday has any Ideas please respond. Thanks............ an old firefighter.

Oh; and I've not touched any of the tires either they are original.

Lift one side then the other from the rear fender and with the other hand, see it the tire freewheels. If not, keys are in place. Next you will need to verify that you have input to the driven pulley of the transmission. Sometimes an idler pulley in the complex will fail and the belt hops off or others the belt will hop the driven pulley of the transmission.

Mark, did you ever get yours going? I am having the same issue with an L110. Checked the tire key. Motor runs strong, blades engage, everything to be properl connected; however the forward and revers pedal does not get any response.

To HU-789600921, I had an issue with tractor movement and found that the control rod going into the transmission was not moving as good as it should have been due to dirt and debris that had collected around it. You may want to check the same thing on your machine. There are detents on this rod inside the transmission that cause the gears to actually engage and without the full movement of this rod, no engagement was possible. In my case, I brushed as much junk as I could away from that area and then gave it a good dose of WD-40 to penetrate a bit and then used a waterproof caliper grease to coat the rod. There is also an adjustment in the linkage on the right side of the tractor to increase the travel in this mechanism that connects to your rod in the transmission. You can try dis-connecting this adjustment and move the rod by hand to check for full range of motion of the forward-reverse selector rod. Also take a look at your drive belt (s) for wear and proper placement.

my l110 auto works forward but veryslow in rev

Remember that reverse is set up to be slower than forward. Things that affect the drive, can seem like it is amplified in reverse. SO a belt that is quite warn, loose transmission mounts, low oil etc. - can be more apparent in reverse. Also remember to look for debris at the arm of the transmission near the reverse sensing switch and above the lower steering support plate.

Only works when out of gear

I have an L110 that was having bad time Fwd/ reverse and I changed the tranny drive belt, tensioner spring, and torsion spring on the pedal. I still do not have any or hardly any movement when pressing pedals fwd or rev?? Please tell me of any service I can do to transmission? I wander if the tranny is just aged out, as it is 20 years old? THis has not just occured all of a sudden, but over last year or 2