Bad connection(wire fell off ) or a blown fuse??? Good Luck Jim

I'd check a seat interlock switch or wire, that would kill the tractor, and not let it restart. On my tractor, my lights only work when the engine is running, so that may exoplain the lights.
Steve

Found the fuse (that was a task in itself) and it was blown. Replaced and mowed for about 5 minutes and it blew again. Any ideas what could be causing this? Any other DYT owners with similar experiences? I believe this is a 2004 model.

Check the wiring controlled by the fuse that blows. Worn insulation can cause a short if the bare wire touches the frame. A bad safety switch or other component may also be causing the short.

-Deerslayer

Cleaned all the wiring and could not find an obvious short. Removed deck and blades spin freely. Replaced fuse and drove tractor around at different speeds and in reverse for several minutes.

Replaced deck, restarted and engaged PTO and ran for about 1 minute. Stopped PTO and moved on the lawn and tried to engage. Nothing happened. After the second attempt, I shut down the engine and tried to restart. Fuse blown.

Any suggestions on how to proceed?

See if your tractor runs more than a few minutes with the PTO off.

-Deerslayer

Are you seeing any abnormal readings on the ammeter?
I assume your ignition switch has the lights on AND off options in the run position?
IF so, does it make a difference if they are "off". (You could eliminate that circuit that way)

If your tractor doesn't blow a fuse with the PTO off, the problem is probably in the PTO circuit. Check the PTO wiring, switch, and electric clutch.

-Deerslayer

Where would I find instructions on how to do this? Thank you.

How to do what? Check the PTO circuit?
IF that, you could disconnect the electric clutch and see if the problem disappears. IF it does, than that part is probably faulty.
Info about your precise problem + make, model etc. of the tractor are often useful!

Turned out not to be a wiring problem. There is a rod that holds the PTO in place and this had become disengaged which allowed the clutch to move. This must have been putting enough of a strain on the circuit to blow the fuse. After bending the rod back into position, the problem was fixed.

Now I have to keep an eye on this to see if it happens again.

I am having the exact same symptoms on my DYT4000. Where exactly is the PTO and rod you found to be the problem. I have been replacig switches to no avail. Any assistance would be appreciated!

I'll try to explain as best I can. The "PTO" I'm referring to is the front pulley that the belt coming from the mowing deck wraps around. This is the pulley that transmits the power from the engine to the mowing deck. It is at the front of the tractor beneath the engine.

If you grab it and try to rotate the pulley it should barely move. Mine was moving about half a turn, the only thing stopping it was the wire coming from the wiring harness.

The rod fits into a hole on the top of the pulley. If you are standing in front of the tractor facing the engine, the rod and hole are on the left side of the pulley. If you can raise the front of the tractor, you can get enough leverage to move the rod back into place. Try to bend the rod a little so there is a tighter fit and hopefully it won't pop out again.

Or call sears and they will come out and fix for $150

Hope this helps

Do you have a wiring diagram? If you have the user manual, it may have one or try downloading one from the internet. With the diagram you can see exactly what circuits run off that fuse and possibly find the culprit.

i have a dyt4000 with a 24hp briggs, i shut it off the other day and today it will not start with the ignition switch. i can jump it off with the voltage regulator and the switch turned on and the switch will turn the mower off. Also while the mower is running, i can pull up on the blades mushroom button but the blades wont engage, but if i get off the seat the mower will cut off like normal. Does this sound like a switch issue. plz help