You are missing lots of vital information. namely the make and model # of the tractor. It may even be helpful to know what switch was installed to know what circuits you powered up. maybe you lucked out and burned a relay in the safety side of things.

Sorry about that. Its a craftsman with a briggs n strat engine. Model num for the engine is 303777-0015-02 and for the tractor is 917-254940. The switch I installed the first time was std365402. That was the one that kept blowing the fuse. The switch currently in there now is a replacement for 158913.

Looking at the IPL for 917.254940, I find that the Sears part number for ignition switch is 102972X.
I can't even imagine where "switch std365402" came from because the parts listed as STDxxxxxx are all "standard hardware items" such as nuts and bolts.

sears gave me 158913

The old switch we took off had 2 S posts but the replacement has 1 S and an L. Does this matter? I didnt switch any wires just plugged it right in. like I said just the lights come on. No other clicks or anything?

It matters more that the terminals are arranged on the switch so that the correct wires are fed. If they gave you a switch that has its "guts" arranged in a different configuration, the terminals could be feeding the wrong wires.
Wire colors shown in the schematic below might help determine if the correct wires are being fed by comparing the terminal designations of both old and new switches.
{{gwi:328606}}

To add to mownie's excellent help-

On the schematic, you'll note the "truth table" in the lower left for the various switch positions.
Verify that the switch you are using agrees with the table, by using an ohm meter.

IF a combination isn't listed, then it SHOULD NOT have continuity.