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bushleague

Kohler oil leak:

bushleague
13 years ago

I'm trying to pinpoint an oil leak on a Kohler CV-740, 27HP twin on a Gravely ZTR. The leak is confined to the oil cooler and filter area. I replaced the oil cooler lines and clamps, oil filter, and 'O' ring on the cooler to sump. I cleaned everything up with Super Clean and ran it up however it looks as if the cooler to sump is still leaking at high rpm, drip drip sort of leak on to the engine mounting plate.

The sump to block looks dry except in this region but it has been soaked with oil from all of the leaks. Tomorrow I'm going to eliminate the cooler and mount an oil filter directly to the sump and see if the leak persists. Any other thoughts?

Comments (12)

  • tomplum
    13 years ago

    I had a Deere last year the same. Replace the o ring and ended up putting a new cooler on it.

  • buzzard_flats
    13 years ago

    "Replace the o ring and ended up putting a new cooler on it."

    Just don't buy a hardware store o'ring they are NOT compatible with oil and will swell and crack, get the OEM o'ring.

  • tomplum
    13 years ago

    Actually, I took the O ring out of my faucet and had to replace that too. . .
    I think the thing that happens with these is the composite adapter distorts sometimes.

  • buzzard_flats
    13 years ago

    Well o'rings are made of all sorts of compounds, some are good for water, some resistant to alcohol, some petrolium products. Choose or use the wrong one in any application and it will fail.

    Might check http://www.conoverseals.com/aboutus.html for some history and tech info @ http://www.conoverseals.com/Fluid.asp

    Depending on the fluid and temp some are just downright bound to fail, most Hardware store o'rings are just meant for use with water and faucets at very low pressures.

    YMMV but I would look for the factory recomended o'ring and correct compound rather than risk a expensive repair for a 50 cent hw store quick fix.

  • bushleague
    Original Author
    13 years ago

    The replacement 'O' ring was a Kohler OEM part, not something you would want to substitute. Now I'm curious to see if the cooler base is leaking by eliminating it as Tom suggested.

  • bushleague
    Original Author
    13 years ago

    I removed the cooler and installed a nipple and filter to the filter base, ran it up, leak is sump gasket.

  • tomplum
    13 years ago

    Oh joy! Couldn't be a simpler deal...

  • bushleague
    Original Author
    13 years ago

    This Kohler model (CV-740) actually has an oil pan gasket, I'll change the c/s seal while I'm there.

  • tomplum
    13 years ago

    This is probably one of Kohler's gaskets that comes w/ parts and papers- true to Kohler form. And don't just use any plumbing gasket. (had to nudge the other poster in some good spirited fun ;) Personally, I think they should have stuck w/ RTV...

  • bushleague
    Original Author
    13 years ago

    There was a design flaw in the dowel pin adjacent to the oil pump, the OEM style was an open loop design, which placed pressure on the sump gasket and producing the leak. The replacement gasket from Kohler came furnished with the closed loop design, as seen on any other Kohler. "Do not use RTV" read the instruction, not even that little dollup I always place around that dowel pin. Additionally for tolerance issues if the engine came gasketed, replace the gasket.

  • tomplum
    13 years ago

    Good for another 10,000 miles. Thanks for sharing.

  • Mark Byerley
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I read some where that the oil runs through one of the alignment guides that have a split in them and the only way to keep it from happening again is to replace the guide with one with a tighter split in it and a new O-ring.Now I have to search and find the guy that's selling them and install with the split towards the inside of the case. Gasket and new dowel part #24 041 54-S. double check this it was taken from another site.

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