Terminology:
Cranking and Turning Over are the exact same thing. The engine is being rotated by some means in order to get it to Start and Run.
Typically, the choke ought to be left in the choke position until the engine starts and runs. Then, you can begin to open the choke (shut off the choke).
If you begin to open the choke as soon as the engine begins to crank over, you are probably missing most of the enrichment (with fuel) that a cold engine needs to get going.
A cold engine with cold air rushing in is inducting a very lean fuel/air mix, and that is not conducive to starting/running.
So the choke "chokes off" most of the air and the resulting fuel rich mixture is more easily lit to aid in getting it to run of its own volition.

Did you get a new tractor yet?

If i had a 12 year old horse that wouldn't come out of the barn, i'd send it across the rainbow bridge!
Gee, Fella, how much longer are you going to keep torturing yer old horse? Maybe ya ought to consider a new or rebuilt engine.

Gee rusty, I sure don't feel that way about my old 1994 White GT 185.
Or my old 1987 Huskee Garden tractor.
Or my old 1986 Snapper RER.
Or my (technically, it's my wife's) old 1968ish Snapper Comet RER.
All still have their original engines (as far as I can tell) and still run well (maintenance you know).
And what about your own self? You are still running too lad.
Now, I will admit I have a few string trimmers lying around that will get their just desserts some time later this summer, and I DON'T mean I'm gonna repair them either. :^)

1), Let me rephrase, I'd put it in choke, turn the key, it would start right up and I'd lower the lever...all one smooth motion. I will try physically leaving it in choke till the engine is running then lower it but it seems to crank where I never noticed that before.

2) Call me sentimental, foolish, cheap or whatever but I have not replaced her yet...she was doing fine until this past few cuts.

3) I hate to put her down if this is something simple...especially since the folks at the dealers add insult to injury when they tell me the 'new' ones are not made like the old toro was.

4) any idea what a rebuilt engine goes for?

seriously, any idea what would cause the sucker to crank for a period of time before turning over....

Terminology!
I would have to say that if it is cranking for a period of time it is TURNING OVER.
So, what engine is in this tractor?
If it by chance has a Briggs engine, have you adjusted the valves?

So is what your saying that the engine's starter is doing it's part and the engine is turning over but not starting and staying going? Or is something seem awry with the cranking itself? Engines btw are not cheap. I always liked the little XL riders- but pretty costly to repower.

Adjusting valves is out of my scope. All I can say is you turn the key, you hear what I descibes as a crank noise but the engine does not start...or at least does not start as quickly as it once did.

Getting answers requires that the proper questions be asked.
And when forum members have questions (back at the OP) as part of a dialogue to further the diagnostic process, the responding member's questions need to be answered...................or we are merely having coffee conversation about nothing.
Engine brand, engine model number, etc. is important to know in these cases.
Play ball!

An aging carburetor plus an aging engine MIGHT be a couple of things that MIGHT cause issues such as this.
General, detailed maintenance services (or LACK of) can also be a contributing factor, dependent on the specific brand product. And I'm not just talking oil & filter (though those are essential basics).

Don't buy a new one. I purchased a Toro last summer and it is doing what your described already. New is not always better. It is just new.

I purchased the 3 year insurance I will call the repair people and see what they say.

I'll get t he model etc. I would have last night but it was a twilight cut and I could not easily see the requested info. It did start, again not as quickly as in the past.

As far as maintenance..Every year I personally:

Remove and sharpen blades
Change oil
Change plug

Every few years I:
Change filter...it always looks clean but I figure it can't hurt to change it every few years.

I also have changed the in-line fuel filter a few times.

Gas was/is always treated with Stabil...started using Stabil with ethanol protector last year.

A few years back I had the dealer change the pulleys and belts.

I will get engine model etc.

I'm baaaaa ak!
Ok, had this issue last season but seemed ok as season went on. Now a year later...happening again.

Just changed oil, filter and added gas. Last two uses I feared it would not turn over and start. I throw choke on and turn key. It usually starts right up. Now it cranks and cranks. Luckily it eventually started and ran fine thereafter.

I bought a new fuel filter. I have not installed it yet. Could that be the issue? Thoughts?

At this point in the game, I suggest that you take the air filter cover off and engage the choke.
Look at how well the choke plate closes. If the choke plate leaves much of a gap, or you can close the choke plate a little bit more by pushing on the plate with a finger tip, the choke cable needs to be adjusted to close the choke tighter.

Thanks mownie. I will try that!

1) I removed the air filter and pushed the throttle all the way up to choke. I do not see any play in the cableâ¦it appears the chock is all the way open. I can not move it anymore with my finger.

2) I replaced the gas filter and the short tube that ran from it to the engine which was cracked.

3) I checked the oil level. ItâÂÂs where it was after I recently changed the oil. No gas smell in there either.

4) Put in new gas w/Stabil Ethanal treatmentâ¦been using that flavor of Stabil for past few years.

It still is not turning right over. It cranks 10 or 15 seconds then eventually starts. Once running, I can shut and restart with no issues.
Carb never serviced or replacedâ¦looks very clean around there. I was shocked to find a new carb is about $125+. Thoughts

#1 ***"it appears the chock is all the way open"***
The key word here is OPEN. For a CHOKE to work correctly to aid in starting a cold engine, it must be CLOSED. Please see attached photo. In the photo, you can see the choke plate and the throttle plate. Choke plate is nearest the entrance to the carb and the throttle plate is deeper inside the carb.
So, if you are pushing the throttle control all the way up to the choke position but the choke plate on the carb remains in the OPEN position, that is not correct.
***"It still is not turning right over. It cranks 10 or 15 seconds then eventually starts"***
Refer to the second posting in this thread. You seem hung up on incorrect terminology, but hope springs eternal. :^)

This post was edited by mownie on Fri, May 16, 14 at 12:26

hmmm....I do not see this at all. When I put the choke on...inside the plastic shell that holds the air filter, I see a little door open and close....am I missing something? The air filter is about 3 inches wide, 7 inches long , 3 inches high and rounded at the ends. I can try to get a picture tomorrow.

the dealer had me bring the plug in...just replaced 3 weeks ago. They said it was a briggs plug form HD, made in China and there have been a few problems with them...it was blackened. I though this odd since I just put it in 3 weeks ago. They said it could also be the carb and asked if it looked wet in the air filter compartment...I said I thought it did. The sold me a new plug and a gas shut off valve and instructed me to shut the valve after each use.

3 mowings in a row the sucker started right up. I'll give it a month and see if my luck continues. At some point I'll likely need a new carb.

followup----every single time I remembered to engage the shut off after mowing...it started right up the next time. The few occasions I did not...it cranked forever before starting.

So...does this indeed imply some sort of carb issue?

If so, do you think its worth replacing the carb and anyone care to opinion how difficult this might be. I have changed a carb and coil...on my pp mower...without screwing everything !....thoughts on the level of diffuclty...

most likely the old carb leak that was there to start with was/is the culprit each time you forgot to use the inline shutoff fuel valve, allowing the engine to be "flooded". Extra cranking is usually needed to clear out the cylinder(s) before the engine will start.
Replacing the carb _ain't_ cheap, but can be done with planning and care (pix, notes, etc.)
BUT - on those occasions where you forgot to turn on the shutoff valve - did you also double-chk your crankcase oil for the presence of raw fuel? If you didn't and it WAS in there and you still ran that engine, by now I expect there isn't much life left in that engine (from poor lubricatiion) and IMHO investing $$ in a new carb really doesn't make much sense.
Yer nickel.

please clarify..if my oil level is full and has no smell of gas...should I change the carb. FYI..the ole gal is a dozen or so years old...never had carb serviced or changed....

plume - put yer thinking cap on tight. the tractor/engine is 12+seasons old. Not worth much resale. Currently - with the fuel shutoff valve - the machine starts and works for you. You say that even when you forget to use the shutoff valve, you are not getting raw fuel into your crankcase oil - which is good.
To me, that all adds up to "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

but, yer money, yer choice.

It would seem to me that the fuel valve being closed during storage systematically improves starting, that would be a good indicator that the carb is leaking by at least a little. A side effect of even an undetectable ounce of fuel consistently washing the cylinder increases wear. The float valve w/ seat is serviceable itself, but replacing the carb is the better bet. Nikki carbs are trickier to repair internally than a Walbro. New carbs are~ a 100$ part typically. They are as easy to replace as your last carb experience. Just be sure the rest of the fuel system is clean first, along with replacing old fuel line and filter.