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stanleyjohn_gw

How long before your CHEAP lawn tractor fell apart.

stanleyjohn
16 years ago

Ok!!According to some lawn tractor owners my LA100 and other tractors in that price range are ticking off to self destruct in a few years.I would like to hear from others out there who have a cheap!! lawn tractor (say under 2k) and how it holding up in lifespan plus running and staying together.For me $1600 is alot to spend on a tractor.The LA100 plus the bagger cost me almost that much.Some say i can buy better used which is true (do that route)but like others its nice once in a while to have brand new.I have a friend who bought a cheap Rally at a Kmart 10 years ago and it still runs well with all the original parts on it.

Comments (147)

  • bobinbaltimore
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I had a 1999 Craftsman 17hp (I forget the model number)that, aside from a broken fly wheel (probably my fault) one year in and an ignition switch that would drain the battery, was going strong at ~7 years when we gave it to a family friend...who is still using it without problems. We "upgraded" to a Home Depot version John Deere L120 in early 2006 due to moving to a home with a larger lawn (almost 2 acres) and a steep grade in the back. It did well for about two years, but the transmission started to slip. It was then that I learned the difference between a Lowes/HD John Deere and a real one from the dealer. GardenWeb was a great source of info on those problems, BTW. Rather than pay $600 - 700 to replace a tranny on a $2K tractor, we truly upgraded to a JD x520 - liquid cooled, rock-solid tranny with 54" cut. This upgrade was also necessitated by our move (hopefully the last one) to a 3+ acre property with lots of terrain and agricultural surprises. The X520 has been great for the 18 months/100 hours I've had and used it. It's a good workhorse for mowing, dethatching, aerating, cart-pulling, and spreading over some pretty darn rough terrain. I'm thinking about getting a Johnny Bucket Jr. (seems better than the JD-offered tractor shovel) as well, but haven't taken the plunge yet. Back to the topic at hand: For a relatively tame property, I would definitely buy a "cheap" Craftsman again, but I would skip the big box store version of the John Deere unless it's zero grade, you weigh less than 200 lbs, and it's smooth as glass. And even then...wait for a sale.

  • jacksoncove
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have a 1976 Sears surban garden tractor 33 years old and still going replaced drive belt once starter once rebuilt carb twice rebuilt fuel pump twice and performed normal pm I have had since new the thing is a tank even has the original tires. They don't build them like this any more

  • metal
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Wow, 100 posts!

  • steve2ski
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Here's post number 101, My sears 1973 ST10, which I sold in 2002 to a person that lives approx 6 miles for me, left it set outside summer and winter, must have finally died. He is not using it this year, still sitting where he parked last fall, lasted me 29 yrs and him 7 yrs. (grand total of 36 yrs).
    I hope my 2002 Craftsman DLT2000 last's half that long, I may be looking at the bottom side of the grass then. If not, I hope to be watching someone else mow.

  • zoulas
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I had a 20 yr old Craftsman with 18hp Briggs. The starter gear went three times (nylon).The rear wheels were frozen on to the axle. The tires were leaking air. Had to fill them every week. Mower belt never changed. I cannot say it was problem free--the engine would not start w/o some cranking. Occasionally heavy smoke would come out of the exhaust. Checked ebay, and the value was not even 100 bucks and that was in very good condition. So finally, I called the waste company and they brought a truck with a lift gate and they took it away. Cost $50 to properly dispose of a tractor BTW. I canot really comlain about Craftman or SEARS. The thing just kept going.

  • metal
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Should have put it on Craigslist for free and saved the $50. I am sure someone would have come to pick it up.

  • tuco
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    "Should have put it on Craigslist for free and saved the $50. I am sure someone would have come to pick it up."

    Yeah - somebody would have seen it on CL and scooped it up in a minute. The word "free" is like chumming the water for sharks.

  • rcbe
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Wonder how many posts if thread title was changed to EXPENSIVE...

  • yt3000_tractor
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Well we have a 15 yr old case ingersoll with 10821(my grandpa used it almost as a car hence the hours) hours on it just checked and its still goin strong and pops wheelies alotby accident i kind of inhereted it also dad just bought me a craftsman yt3000 great tractor

  • ollieduke
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have had good luck with my cheap mowers,as have gotten at least 8 years use out of each one cutting a big yard with pasture type grass. (have all been TSC brand) I use one that is now 16 or so years strictly as a tractor pulling a trailer. It has a B&S 14 hp Ind engine with 6 speeds,always starts quick and never add oil between changes. Have moved 2 loads of sand with it over the years. Has been very dependable as only had to replace a few spindles and belts. It looks bad as the brakes are gone and have ran into the fence a time or two and broke off the plastic part of the hood,so hood is held on by bungie cords. and have screwed a small bucket on the hood to hold my drink. Has the original tires and front end is still tight.(they did make them better 16 years ago)I do live in the country,so am not worried about appearances. When I can get at least 8 years of service from a cheap mower,I consider getting my moneys worth and am ready for a new one. The 16 year old one probably cost 7or 8 hundred back then and the one I am replacing now only $1000. (the 16 year one was a Murrey) I do service them and do all the work on them myself.

  • stocktongal
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Had a 12.5 HP Sears 38" which ran 15 years before quitting. Starting my 4th year with a Deere LA102, now with 60 hours.

  • bigvegnut
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I bought a troybilt ,had it 3 years and the transmission went out,never will buy again. I bought an old simplicity 2 wheeled tractor with 5 attachments for 80 dollars. It is all original except for a tune up and 50 years old and it runs like new.I guess they just don't build them like they use to.

  • gorper99
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    How do you balance a 2 wheeled tractor?

  • mownie
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    ***"How do you balance a 2 wheeled tractor?"***
    Is that a serious question?

    Here is a link that might be useful: A Question of Balance

  • goldnuget
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    to make your cheap mower last longer do the following.
    Remove cylinder head coverings and cylinder coverings and clean out cooling fin area. Grass clippings get compacted in these areas causing heat retention and loss of cooling.
    Don't rinse off your tractor with water. Blow it clean with compressed air and wipe clean with damp rag. Use the proper weight oil for the temperature outside. Try to use gasoline with no ethanol or 10% the most. No methanol allowed according user manuals. Straight gasoline the best. Don't cut wet grass. Don't pull or push with your cheap tractor as the trans is the weak point. Grease the spindles and keep blades balanced and sharp. Your light cheap tractor with proper care can last a long time. Your engine probably only weighs 80 to 100 lbs. Your tires are 2 ply. Your belts start slipping and burning up if the tension is not correct. Don't cut tall grass. If you do set mower height high as possible and go slow. If you weigh over 200lbs go on a diet and lose weight as that is more weight the mower does not have to hall around. That big bear belly is hard on the cheap seat too. Get lean and cheap like your mower.

  • backman01
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    My cheap mower was Craftsman-GT5000-w/25 hp Kohler 48 inch deck bought in 04 for $2,200.it has 260 hrs on tractor,it mows 3.5 acres every week i also plow snow with it.i replaced the mower drice belt,1 pulley on deck plus change oil ftl,this has been an excellent mower and i know it will last longer than 500hrs.very good tractor for the price. Rick in ncpa

  • backman01
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    What are you talking about 500 hrs and the mower is junk??
    who ever said that is nuts and doesnt know anything about
    mowers ect,he must be one of those kubota dealers.Rick ncpa

  • bckskin2
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    We had an MTD Yard man with a 20 horse Kohler that ran for 7 years. We mowed 10 acres , pushed snow pull a cart, pulled logs ETC. We gave it to a friends dad who rebuilt the Carb & is still pushing snow as far as I know. He was an aging stock car type and works on engines for fun!

  • homegrown55
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Who cares! At the rate things are going, I'll probably fall apart before IT does.

  • ewalk
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Wow someone must be getting bored in Zone 9 !

  • homegrown55
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I hear you ewalk...loud and clear!!! Just messin around. Just finished pulling a Tecumseh Peerless MST 5 speed off of a Craftsman. It only has Reverse and Neutral. I am NOT a tranny guy, so I guess it is time to learn!

  • steve2ski
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Was that cheap Craftsman DLT2000 purchased in April 2002 - The only repairs other than Mower Blades and Belts, was voltage regulator/rectifier(about $25) and starter Bendix(about $13).
    A couple of weeks ago at 594 hours on meter and 11.5 yrs use, the engine went wild on RPM, indicating problem in the governor. Not wanting to tear the engine down myself took it to a local repair shop. Yep, the governor had blown apart, evidently the drive gear had seized on pressed in shaft - spun that shaft in the block, (bad block) Engine was 22HP Briggs. Now I have a 27HP Briggs installed in the tractor - probably not a great decision. (less than $1100 installed) Comparable new tractor was close to $2200. (this time of year had to find one)

  • Ibuycdn
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have just posted in another thread that my 13 year old 14.5 HP MTD (Orig cost $1600. Cdn) has frozen in gear. Except for replacing the blades, belts and a tire, oil and filters, I have really not done anything to this machine. It has run fine since I bought it new. I have plowed with it and cut my 1.25 acres every other week. It has some rust from the salt here but until this year, no real repairs at all! 3 days ago I found the unit will NOT go out of gear..I can't move it or start it. It is simply frozen in gear!

  • 123GO
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'll start with what I read here on this site,
    I bought a JD mower in 1975 it ran for 20 yrs,
    I bought a Murray mower in 1985 it ran for 15 yrs,
    I bought a Sears mower in 1995 it ran for 10yrs,
    I bought a MTD mower in 2005 it ran for 5 yrs,
    See the trend? How long will todays mowers last? 2 yrs?
    Lack of maintenance is not why they die/have major repairs sooner today, because the same people cared for them no different 20yrs ago than today. Heres why, fact is there is just more junk today than then!

    #1-They were not full of china parts & had a made in USA engine back then not made in china. Some were cast iron engines then made to rebuild & run for decades again like cars.
    #2-They all had alot more metal/steel in them back then not just thin tin & aluminum & plastic. Some with Cast Iron frames! Cast Iron rearends!
    #3-Every yr grease fittings,oil plugs,bolts,nuts,washers disappear. ITS SO WE CANT MAINTAIN THEM SO THEY WONT LAST! Must replace all or one piece at a time. Your choice however you wish to do it but you'll do it!
    Im not so well off to just buy new mowers often either and would'nt anyway.
    In 1990 I bought a used 20yr old rear engine snapper for 150.00 that ran fine and wouldnt die and when I moved to smaller yrd in 1995 I sold it for same price. No repairs but sooo slooow! Only oil changes/tune up/one tire.

    In 1998 I moved again so I bought a 1984 Toro for 175.00. Its briggs finaly got tired, so I sold it in 2004 and bought a used very well maintained with records john deere for 500.00. Kawasaki engine ran beautifully!
    But parts if needed were rediculous priced,It always cut like crap even as a mechanic I couldnt make it cut right,two JD shops couldnt either so after 2 seasons in 2006 I sold it! Good Riddence!
    I then bought my first new mower, 2006 AYP Husqvarna/Craftsman 20HP hydro. Ran/cut like a dream for 7 yrs with only reg maintenance. Mowed about two acres and cut very nice every single time.
    I learned about mowers by this time as Ive worked on all the neighbors,families & friends for yrs. So I sold mine before the problems associated with todays mowers got me like it has them "its not if, its when folks, such as steering as mentioned,briggs 20hp cylinder failure and the rearends failing even if you remove them a few times to change oil. What a joke that is! About all the rearends are "maintenance free" today even so called GT mowers meaning non servicable, you cant drain the gear/hydro oil to change it.

    I decided instead of buying a new $2000 mower that wont last any longer than an older cared for used one and before selling my craftsman Id look hi/low for a cared for Wheel Horse. I got lucky & found a 1976 B-100 8-speed true Garden Tractor, its the long frame side shaft Kohler model witch is the same as the 1975 C-100 not the small vert engine B series. The man passed away that bought it new, about the only way to get a low hour wheel horse now days it seems but there out there. Owners dont like selling them and I know why.
    The owner mowed about a 1/4 acre with it. Stored it in a heated walk in basement and he never ran tillers,plows or any of the 20+ other impliments a wheel horse can run.
    It had 266hrs mowing time on it witch is nothing for these tractors and was very well cared for. Original seat still looks new.
    The way its built and the way todays mowers are built is night & day. Our local mower shops ask 1000-1800.00 for them even with over 800hrs on them & over 30yrs old, they do sell too. I sold my craftsman for 650.00 and paid 600.00 for the wheel horse. More than a fair trade to me and would do it again. It cuts just as well as the craftsman too but its faster than it was.

    I know these are hard to find in good shape and it was over 100 miles away from me but I also know it will be my last lawn/garden tractor I buy. I am going to buy a tiller for it this yr since we do gardening. Im 52yrs old and even if a rebuild comes along when Im 65yrs old I'll be more than happy to do it myself. Ive got the tools and the know how. Wheel horse parts are everywere in case your wondering. Very little changed through out all the decades they made them and Kohlers still making engine parts. Some had Onans witch are outstanding engines but are no longer made so parts are high & drying up fast.

    Some Toro branded Wheel Horses have vert engines and they are regular lawnmowers not much better than todays. The better ones have Horizontal cast iron Kohlers/cast iron rearends & fr axle/iron frames. Sorry its so long folks but I hope someone learns sooner than I did. Look around while your cookie cutters still running.
    Fair Warning: Remove your mowers rearend and change its oil asap! All oil companies state oil lasts 1 yr if you read any bottles label. Rearends are not sealed units they have breather tubes that allow air/contaminants/water inside + some mowers leak oil out and need re-filled so check your rears oil before it costs you several hundreds.

  • mownie
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I abdicate :^)

  • larso1
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    So mownie, you:
    Resign, retire, stand down, step down, bow out, renounce the throne;
    demit, resign from, relinquish, renounce, give up, surrender, vacate, cede; disclaim? So which is it? :)

    This post was edited by larso1 on Fri, Feb 28, 14 at 19:50

  • larso1
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    If you calculate the dollar's value over the period from 1975 to today, you'll find that $1.00 in 1975 is worth $4.50 today. That lawn tractor you bought back in 1975 was no doubt pretty pricey for the time and would translate to some major sticker shock today for most people. Especially after seeing all the posts on this forum from people wanting a good and reliable lawn tractor but only have a budget of $1,500. max. for it..... that's only about $350 in 1975. I suspect a JD lawn tractor cost a lot more even back then. It's no wonder that lawn/garden tractor mfrs. are having their lower end tractors built in the cheapest labor markets of the world, like China and Mexico. They're just responding to the public's low pricing requirements. You can still get a very well built and reliable lawn or garden tractor today, but as it was back then, you will have to pay the price.

  • mownie
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Larso, pretty much relinquish the title, but all in good humor :^)

  • tomplum
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Over the years, there hasn't been a huge price increase on entry level to mid grade L & G equipment. There have been some trade offs, yes. Would I rather have a rider that is built heavier on one hand, but that handles awful, has a deck that is painful to remove or otherwise service- heck no.
    Take a basic LX series Deere from 15 years ago. People paid $3000/ 3500 for a 172/ 176. What does an X300 cost today? One could argue that there have been advancements or detriments either way.
    A D or L series Deere today is a great entry level tractor.
    MTD is a hard comparison as there are just so many deck configurations. The average Joe or Jolene probably could have spent a grand on an entry level w/ a nice heavy deck with a heavy deck belt that could take some abuse in that field they want to mow. Today, they best choose carefully. Generally at least serviceability has gotten better.
    The HOP riders made great improvements over the years. So good in fact that Sears took the entry level rider contract away. No accounting for taste.
    I say take the good with the bad, be attentive, ask how to keep your rider clean and get your maintenance done on time.
    I've also heard for years about that "price of green paint" referring to the price of Deere parts. I've seen some that make you wince for sure, but generally speaking pricing is in line. Toro pricing went through the roof on lots of parts. MTD makes real good money on their parts. They are such a strange mix really. Some things are reasonable yet, but the same part for the next rider is hugely more expensive. In general, the value of a rider is better than it ever was.

  • james_garfield
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I see there are posts here from many years back. Obviously this is a pretty hot topic! Let me add my few cent's worth.

    Several posters such as Deerslayer and Docspanky have expressed the points much better than I could. Garden Web policy doesn't allow brand name bashing, and of course I honor that. But let's face it, there's a Reason our beloved machines (such as those based on the MTD-600 chassis) can be had for a low cost: From my experience, these are basically 500-hour machines. They are made to be inexpensive to buy, and last the average homeowner somewhere between 5 to 10 years before major breakdowns and repairs. (However, from reading the posts here, obviously lots of these mowers didn't make it even to the 5-year point.)

    But this isn't a bad thing. It's just marketing strategy! The target buyer for this level of machine is a homeowner who has from 1/4 to about 2 acres of reasonably well maintained yard. This level of machine lets Joe Homeowner get the job done with a $1500 big-box-store lawn tractor.

    Consider some figures: Let's say Joe Homeowner uses his mower a couple of hours every Saturday, mowing his yard during a 26-week growing season. At this rate, he will put about 52 hours a year on his mower. There will be the normal yearly maintenance items-- things like air filters, oil filters (if equipped), fuel filters, belts, blades, battery, and maybe tires.

    Then at this rate, in 10 years Joe will have about 520 hours on his mower, and the average big-box-store mower can (usually) make it to this time with with good maintenance and care. But beyond this point, it's going to start having reliability issues as the engine, chassis, and drivetrain parts start reaching their designed end-of-life. Now, with intense maintenance / repair, all this could be fixed of course and the machine could carry on indefinately. But by this point those repairs are gonna be nearly the cost of that new shiny model sitting there on the bix-box showroom. So, Joe Homeowner will probably just junk his old one and buy the new one, which perpetuates the success of this marketing strategy.

    Comments?

  • lefeavers
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Craftsman Ytv16 older (1984?) Put Rockwell 90 drive shaft in. Brake had fallen apart b4. Not sure if that has n e thing 2do with. Tested ability to engage as I re-installed. Daylight 2mor, I can only look. I ned new diagram of brKes and a shoe! Not until it moves forward tho. Thanks.

  • lefeavers
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I need yo get it to Engage! It doesn't move. Brake? Or what

  • mownie
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    lefeavers, you need to create a new thread to ask your question.
    Dropping a question about a specific problem into a 7 year old thread that is discussing a different topic is not going to draw the right kind of attention to your problem.
    A suitable title for your new thread would be something like "YTV/16 Craftsman will not move"
    And you also need to post the real, technical model number for this machine if it can be found. That number is often located under the seat and is an 8 or 9 digit number string.

  • tomplum
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Screw that. Heck, he should patent that paint job and sell it to Toro for a special edition, I bet you couldn't keep them in stock at the depot! Capital C on Cool for that one....

  • JoppaRich
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    "Or you could buy a 3k machine and follow the maintenance instructions in the manual and keep it for 20 years saving 1k over buying a cheapie 1k machine and buying new every 5 years"

    Spending $3K today is actually a lot more money than spending $1K every 5 years for 20 years. Yes, $4K is more than $3K, but you're forgetting inflation, the time-value of money, interest rates, etc.

  • wheely_boy
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    You are forgetting the PITA of having to put up with 4 tractors going through their "end-of-life". What is it worth to have a machine that works every time you go to use it?

  • toxcrusadr
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ain't that the troof! I'm about to replace one or both of my nearing end of life beasts with a new JD. Tired of replacing starters, tires, rebuilding carbs, oil leaks, etc. At least for awhile I'll be free!

  • lefeavers
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ok 2007 question. It's 2014 and here's pic . 1986? YTV 16 . Two mowers

  • lefeavers
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ok 2007 question. It's 2014 and here's pic . 1986? YTV 16 . Still workin. No exhaust, AND removal of sheet metalAround engine makes me want to mount it on a Air frame (FLY!!!)

  • lefeavers
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Solution for not moving was simple, didn't realize topic then. Having Mo fun now APRIL 28 2014
    OBAMA CHANGED PATENT LAWS. I invented LED Crystal , patent attorney ain't .. S_ _ _ ! Says I can't do..... also invented Gater grip (neighbor STOLE idea) patent attorney for individual WELCOME... lefeavers @ yahoo

  • Toronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I am mowing 1.18 acres with an old 5212 Simplicity I got second hand. Does it count as CHEAP? Probably since it has no hours gauge it sounds like.

    It has the deck that eats belts every other year. I used to stare at it or try to find what was broken then I just admitted it was easier to ebay two belts once and keep a second for when one breaks mid mow.

    Besides that its ok. I've had to get the neighbor to help me weld on new tie rod ends. Probably need some carb work done since the idle has a surge but even though I have figured out how to defeat the seat safety, how often do I leave it idling?

    Next thing I need is a fuel cap/gauge. Mine has lost the foggy plastic cover and wants to squirt gas at me if I turn too aggressively.

  • KnikAK
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I bought a Craftsman Professional #917.28870 24hp 42" back in '09(I liked the all Black w/Yellow push bumper). I can't remember the price, I think it was under $2K. Its been trouble free since day one, it has almost 500 hrs on it. We have long summers here in Alaska & I use it to push snow all winter long. I don't take it easy on the machine, I use it all summer besides mowing. The only thing I wish this little lawn tractor had was a tad more weight to it, especially in the rear. I'm surprised its held together since the Craftsman brand no longer means quality products. I no longer purchase their battery powered drills ect.

  • Icon2000
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have 2 that are at least 10 years old both BS engines one 12.5 flat head weedeater 38 inch. other 17 hp troybilt bronco model 609 with 195 hours. The Weedeater 12.5 is an monster of a rider tough as nails. The Troybilt runs good just has issues with variable speed at times.

  • quickrick
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have had a few Sears and Massey Ferguson mowers. I can see where the cheap ones scrimp on the build: steering bearings, suspension and sheet metal.

    If you have a normal to medium sized lot and do regular maintenance they'll last 10 years or so. Rag them out maybe they will last years less.

    It has been the transmissions, both hydro and not, that broke on me. (My neighbor and I drag a Cyclone Leaf Rake in the fall with my Sears LT so it takes a beating).

    Everyone is right about the repairs, a $400-$500 trans into a 10 year old Sears $1200 tractor doesn't make much sense to most.

    QR

  • rcbe
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    GW otta rename this thread " tractors bought by cheapskates"...
    If you want a hefty garden tractor with ground engagement capabilities, buy and pay for such. If you want a light duty inexpensive rider just to cut grass, then buy that. But don't buy the cheapest thing on wheels and then whine about it not holding up for generations doing heavy duty work... sheesh.

  • tomplum
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Wow. Seven years of fun. The theory would be that if someone were to have bought a LT on the day this thread was started, that by this time- they would have shopped for a new one by now. Last I heard, 7 years is the average life expectancy on L&G equipment.
    I'm not so sure that I buy the cheapskates belief here though, Not to butt heads w/ rcbe- everyone has different priorities, The dollar for some, goes only so far. Then I've worked on Murrays owned by millionaires and 7 series owned by those scraping to get by. I know a couple who buys 2 new LTs at a time rather than a heavy duty GT to mow their 4 + acres just so they can enjoy the time together. This time matching D Series. Ain't love grand....

  • Toronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I don't come this way often but you'd think that sometime since the last two administrations I would have known it!

    Does my 1989ish Simplicity 5212 count as cheap? My realestate agent gave it to me back in '02 with a bad pulley in the deck. I've had to get a couple tie rod pieces welded back together and you should see the bolts I ran down this one lever to get it to hold in place. Besides that I have bought a battery and a belt for every finger I have for it.

    Oh, and I put some LED lights on the top so I can mow after dark. Darned day schedule sucks for homeowners.

  • Kevin Kennedy
    8 years ago

    I am honestly not a big fan of vertical shaft lawn tractors I have always been used to old horizontal shaft cast iron Koehler powered machines they are indestructible I have an old ford gt 145 with a Jacobsen front end on it and it's from 1975 my father actually bought it 12 Yeats ago for $200 and it just finally quit I would say if I was going to spend money like $1600 which i personaly think is insane to spend on a lawn tractor I would buy an old horizontal shaft garden tractor in really good condition and just take care of it. It would probly out live you and that new $1600 tractor

  • sjalexandertrader
    8 years ago

    Here's my story: I've spent $700 bucks for 13 years of mowing. And I've been ridin' in the saddle. I mow about an acre, two or three times a month. I let the grass get a little too tall sometimes, but these mowers have had no problem cutting it down.

    My first was a Craftsman 14 or a 16 hp that I paid 100 bucks for. I only bought one battery in 5 years. It was probably from the 80s or 90s. The engine was still strong but the rest was shot. Time for a new one.

    So, I ended up calling a guy and he said "come on by, I have one for sale." He had a Murray he wanted 200 for. But I noticed a larger yard man sitting under a tree, it was a hydraulic 18 hp Yard Man that he said needed some TLC. I asked him what it needed. He said just a "little this and that." I've heard that before! Dig? I said, does it Run?"

    He said yes, and after some effort we got it cranked. I bought it. I just had a feeling about it. The quality stuck out. Hydraulics will last longer. I know a little something. But It was a little risky. I knew it needed a little help under the deck. I paid $225.00 for it. But 8 years later, it!'s still running. That Kohler engine is great. It's a 1996 model. It takes a little effort to get it cranked, I use a little ether and have a process, because I don't want to kill my battery with excess cranks.? I've spent $400 over the last 8 years on it. There's a pro mechanic who has put a belt on it. and some pulleys and such under the deck, batteries. I mow my lawn in 30 to 40 minutes. That saves me an hour versus the push type. Saves my back even more.


    My mechanic said the Kohler engine is as good as a Honda. This was a high time machine before I got it. I can just tell. But I've only put about 100 hours on it or so. I'm trying to stretch the life out by mowing only 2, maybe 3 times a month. If I mow every week, there's no need for the ether -- but I like for my grass to grow tall before cutting -- it keeps it thicker and better looking. My neighbors have a love- hate relationship with me.

  • mynutsrturning
    3 years ago

    I totally agree, Id never buy anything but a Tractor these days. New or used If you want it to last very long. Simply doing the math $$$$ vs their short life expectancy. Todays mowers are an expensive route no doubt about it.

    My Wheel Horses with (Kohlers K series) are still going strong with hardly anything done to them since buying used. Ones a 1976 B100-8 my other is a 1988 414-8. I sold my 6yr old Craftsman and bought first one 11yrs ago. All I've done was replaced 2 batteries and its original belts mowing 2 acres. Why I bought another bigger one when I saw it cheap too.

    Cast iron tractors built to last not cheap throwaway cookie cutters designed to fail. No regrets!

    Mine already outlasted neighbor's & bil Zero turns.