Oh, were to start with an answer? Do you have a picture of the drain plug you can post? Is it a hex bolt style with a washer or a 'push and turn' style drain? I looked on the JD website for an owner's manual with no luck. Perhaps a call or trip to your local Deere dealer would answer your question. Good luck and have a safe weekend.

Thank you. I could send a photo of the area I'm working. But meanwhile the knob/plug I turned is a round brass colored knob, with vertical threads which should have assisted gripping with the tools I could get wedged in the small space. I'm 'assuming' I turned the correct knob as the oil nicely drained with probably a quarter to half turn. I've manuevered it back both ways. So either I've turned the wrong knob and it now malfunctions or it just failed to close.

I have mulled calling a dealer or shop and may try to do that. If you wish I can easily send a photo-once I figure out how to do that on this site. Oh, I'll put the link for my Hm, Bet I Can Fix That and put it on a 'page'. Thanks Again, thanks for responding to the issue.

Here is a link that might be useful: HM, Bet I Can Fix That

A useful technique, click link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Post pictures primer

Well, my suggestion to you is go buy a new machine, if you need one, and trade in the old one! Not meaning to diss your intelligence, since you are evidently not mechanically inclined, (A condition not too unfamiliar to some of us) Someone who could design a computer control for some mega-sized machine, but can't figure out how an adjustable Crescent wrench works, should never try to figure out the workings of lawn equipment!
That said, here is my suggestion: Buy a nice new Craftsman lawn tractor, and sign up for the maintenance program for the new machine. Also, read and ingest the instructions as put forth in the manuals you will receive with the new tractor (lawn), and that will save you many head-aches in the future.
And, you can threaten your handy-man with dire consequences if he so much as looks at it, or even sits on the machine. From what you said about his working on the tractor---consider this old saying: "There are some folks who couldn't pour water out of a boot, if the directions were printed on the heel!"
Hear this: The ignition key is removable! And, if somebody is smart enough to figger out that any lawn tractor key will fit any other machine, then buy a length of log chain, and a good lock, and run the chain thru the steering wheel and around the front axle, and lock it up!
Rusty J.

Thanks for the chuckles. And my world class brain is not insulted. And yes, if it were just 'my' old mower I would buy a new one toot sweet. But the reason I'm attempting to get this thing running is all about my late Father. As just posted on my blog for 3 years when needed I've mowed with the B&S, and just this week jury rigged a broken handle."blog> The house is for sale, yea I know, and if it came down to a new mower I'd be better off paying someone to do the yard 'when needed'.

Not that I'm in anyway mechanically literate but I'm also not so vacant that the few items which could be done such as 'oil change' and check/replace spark plug are beyond my meager abilities. I have a manual, enough tools to bury Cleveland and a vast library of 'sailor speak' to assist me from my Navy career. So I'll try the link suggested in another answer, may call a JD place, will post a photo of the &%$^ area for the first answer.

No my reasoning may not meet the 'rational' check but its great fun for my blog, among the other issues regarding repair and maintain topics. The caretaker is no longer here and outside of getting the sledgehammer out to make my point he just didn't 'get it' despite numerous DON'T MOW I'LL DO IT. 77 years old etc.

Again, everyone is nicely providing sound advice and some chuckles.

Heh heh. rustyj is nigh on 87 YOA.
His "tirade" should be interpreted as "a challenge" to weak kneed newbies as a sort of initiation to a club.
If you get ticked and disappear, you might not possess the "bent" to work through problems in the first place.
Post some photos of the recalcitrant drain port and we will see :^)

http://hmbeticanfixthatmyfathersdaughter.blogspot.com/

For mownie & atschirner and anyone else who wants to weigh in. Pictures are contained in todays post. Eagerly awaiting what will probably be humorous response regarding everything I've done wrong. Thanks!!!!

Aww, shucks===ya didn't say you wuz a gurl! I'd like to apologize if i hurt yer feelings. gurls aren't supposed to know how to drain oil out of engines, nor fix cranky lawn tractors, or much else in the mechanical line! Naw, they are supposed to dress up in frilly clothes, languish on the porch glider, sip on mint juleps, and beguile the boys into fixin' their tractors! Please forgive this old geezer! Rusty J.

I wasn't insulted before-but this 'girly' crap, now that is another kettle of fish altogther.:):):) Then again, after 13 years in the Navy where I regularly out performed my male counterparts, these statements don't make a blip on my radar.

So, no need to apologize and you don't require forgiveness. And I'm guessing you have no answers to what I've been thinking should be a relatively easy question for a truly experienced person of average mechanical abilities.

And you are quite the comedian and have provided a bit of fun. Thank you Rusty J.

Looks like a neat enough blog at first glance. I will explore it later. The brass stem is pain to get at on these and anything you can grip the serated end with and turn it in clockwise should get the job done. Keep in mind that this has relatively fine threads so it will take more that a few turns. You will see it physically turn in. If you don't see it turn, I suppose it is possible that it had been turned out too far and is out of its threads. I have not seen that happen, but if it has- a tad bit of pressure at the end whilst it is being turned clockwise might allow it to grab the threads again. Best of luck with everything.

I second what tomplum says about the possibility the stem has traveled beyond its thread limit, and that a slight bit of pressure inward on the tip of the stem while turning the stem clockwise may be all that is needed to catch the threads and close the valve.
I certainly hope this is the case because it appears that the engine would need to at least be loosened from the frame bed of the mower to create enough clearance to turn the drain cock assembly for replacing.
And of course, good luck.

tomplum & mownie-Thanks for your insight and I'm pleased for several reasons.
1. It just may be something I'll manage.
2. It tells me that I was on the right track and didn't turn something I shouldn't have-which obviously could give me an entirely new group of things to blog about.....and the queue is HUGH already :):) Yes, that little brass threaded knob, both outside and inside, is almost impossible to both get my hand or a tool into and then I can only turn the knob 'maybe' 1/12 of a turn.
3. That the comment regarding disassembling the obstructions around the area would be both a last resort as well as cumbersome. I have a few times after 'sailor speaking' to the Jr JD have considered that option, but have keep at my original attempts in hopes of success.

All who have responded have been great, ALL :). And thanks for pulling up the blog site to take a peek at the photos. For those of you who are mechanically literate I hope you will find that while reading it shaking your head and saying 'new meaning to the word stupid' as well be assumed when I succeed. Again, Thanks and I'll report if I am successful.

IMO Sometimes the oil gets thick and hard in the drain port if regular oil changes was not preformed. This oil is not circulating and becomes sludge. Over time it will get hard enough to not alow any flow when attempting to drain the oil if it has not been changed for awhile. You may have to run something up the drain tube port like fish tape that plumbers use (wire, cable, ect.. anything that will bend around curves to get to the blockage)

I would also think long needle nose pliers or needle nose vice grips would reach between the crack to add leverage to turn the drain plug fully open. The pipe sticking out for slip on hose to drain the oil away from the mower in an attempt to not create a mess. Notice I said attempt!

Maybe this will help. Try using a shorty open end that is a touch larger than the stem- wrapping the tip w/ friction tape to hustle things along.

Just to close this thread I have gotten the oil plug closed and oil is back in. Cranks nicely but won't fire up. Next step is my sparkplug. No doubt that will soon provide my new question. Thanks all.