according to serious roebuck, that's a peerless 2000-006a tranny in that rig.
Fish was/is awful good with howto's on those units - hopefully he'll pick up on this and toss in some help - there was a deal about some sort of bellows kit to install, but can't recall the details... :(

A friend said there might be remnants of the old belt still stuck on one of the pulleys. Part of the old belt did stick onto the front stacked pulley, so maybe i didn't get it all removed. I didn't see anything in the stacked pulley, but i'll give it a look-see later on. And, i'll wait for more mail on the subject.
It'll be a few days until i eat back to it, as i'm loaded with lawn mower work, and trips to the scrap yard!

Make sure the brake is not stuck or hangin up.

Got tired of the service calls for no drive to find the brakes sticking on the Hydro Gears.

Did it eat the inner or outer part of the belt? If inside, whilst you are checking the pulleys for debris- look close at the top of the stack pulley and see if it is cracking. The break once in a while. Give a look at the front idler bracket as once inna blue mood, the anchor bolt loosens up and makes it sit kinda askew... And as always, watch over the torque brackets for the transaxle that may be missing a bolt or are cracked too.

Well, i got into it today and found the spark plug wire was really bad, so i fixed that and installed a better spark plug. Ran a bit better, but didn't help the herky-jerky. Removed the plastic flywheel cover . found mouse stuff in there altho not a lot,cleaned that stuff out.
It ran and drove. I then removed the hood assembly, and it hasn't started since!
And now, since my helper went home to do some work there, i tried to get it into the garage, worked up a big sweat, the rain is approaching, and i'm 6 foot short of the garage door!
And, lucky me, a guy stopped and helped push that durned tractor into the garage! And left his ancient Craftsman lawn mower for me to fix the tranny. don't lnow what is wrong, but when it is shifted into gear, the powered wheels won't turn.? Probably a good case of neglect--it ain't pretty--all dirty, etc.And, i'm still open for more advice on the tractor. Keep cool! Rusty Jones

"It ran and drove. I then removed the hood assembly, and it hasn't started since! "
Better put the hood back on Rusty...

The old Craftsman walk-behind had a bunch of sticks stuck in the drive cable area and between the axle shaft and the deck , and the belt was off the c-shaft pulley and had it all jammed up! Guy must of thought it was a DR Brush mower--it ain't! RJ

Guy brought me a newer (2009) Craftsman 22" SP yesterday sweating bullets "I hit a rock, and it's my Brother's mower", how quickly" before he could finish, I said come back at five.
I replaced the key, changed the oil-soaked air filter, and sucked the pint over out of the crankcase, and straightened, sharpened, and balanced the blade (distributor is showing -15 in stock, new star center 22" blade). Owner picked it up after I changed his wheel settings from lowest to the center. I told him it's a mower, not a roto tiller. I sold him a nice used Craftsman sp of his own.

My father uses his like a roto tiller. Keeps the grass about 1/2" high.

I recently had a Craftsman tractor with a shredded belt, and as tom plum said, the pulley was cracked. In that case, the pulley finally broke.

So, today i finally got it all back together, new ignition coil, new oil, cleaned everything, wiped off the shiny red paint, new battery-everything to make a nice ride, and took it out for a spin!
Went 30 feet, and the bucking started, just as bad as before! Well, at least i know the engine is ok, and the main drive belt, and the mowing deck, the tires, the hood, the seat, and all but the tranny! Guess i'll remove the engine and good parts, and scrap the rest. I have an older Craftsman tractor that was a gift, so if i can get it to at least run and drive, the engines can be swapped over. Or sold! I don't know where i could get a transmission for it around here. (Pittsburgh, PA.)
Probably want an arm and a leg for it! I could give the seller one of my old wooden legs, if it came to that, but not my arm!

I got into the Sears/Craftsman web-site, and found the blow-up drawings of the tranny! From what i can see, the tranny is not a hydro, just a plain geared type.
And, from the way it sounds, i could probably install some new gears and it would work again.
Well, after i fix the starter on the motor home, fix some other stuff around here, take some more scrap to the
yard, and listen to a bunch of: "You'd better get these things fixed before you lose your happy home!" type of talk, and finish up an old Craftsman gift tractor, i'll pull the 3000 in and remove the tranny and find out what i can do for it. From the drawing i saw, i think i can buy the gears separately.
The gift tractor looks like a refugee from the swamps, but the old Tec engine runs well, the tranny works, it runs and drives and the deck is in fine shape except for a little surface rust. Hood needs some work, but an old auto body fixer can fix it--me! Frame is a little bent, but some work with a heavy sledge will make it aright!

O' NO! not Frame issue!!!! "Frame is a little bent, but some work with a heavy sledge will make it aright!ot a frame issue" I just don't see how it could bend without "cracking"???? (ok a lame joke from yester year)

Have you open up the tranny yet? if so did you see anything? I'm puzzled how it can be an automatic with gears. IF so I would think or guess it would probably be something in the changer or adjustment problem from one gear to another. Seems if it was a gear you would get a clunk or grinding noise???

DO NOT BE FOOLED by the presence of "gears" in the IPL.
This is indeed a hydrostatic transmission. The gears you see are for final reduction and for the differential action only.............they play no role in selecting different ground speeds or changes in direction.

Well, i found the schematic pictures on the Sears web-site. Yes, there are gears inside it, but as one said, it is for the differential workings, not for movement in mowing and driving along. But, it does sound like those gears are stripped.

Just a thought--could the differential gears be stripped, but the hydro part be ok? It does try to move along, but only until the missing teeth come around to the mesh point.
Any way, i think it'll be an experimental thing next winter. I can heat my garage well, and can delve into it further. Thats if i don't sell it all for parts before that time!
Thanks for the information on it. RJ
P.S. When will folks who buy the "automatic transmission types" finally learn that the clutch/brake pedal is there for shifting gears, as well as braking?!

So today, a man stopped in and said if i'd go to his home, he'd give me a Craftsman lawn tractor for free! He said there was something wrong with the engine! So, off we went, about 15 miles or so. And there in his son's garage, beneath a pile of kids toys of every description, sat a really nice dark gray Craftsman tractor!
Now, i didn't ask questions, just helped uncover it, loaded it up, and we left for my place. 'Bout half-way home, the skies opened up, the rain fell horizontally, and said tractor got a good wash job. I finally hid it down back of the house until the rain quits. And, there-in lies the end of this tale---if that engine is bad, there is a perfectly good one existing in a bright red tractor with a very bad transmission! (One that i have $75 invested in)
Somebody asked me why i work so hard with all of the things i do! Well, how many 85 year-old guys do you all know who are still able to work an eight-hour day, and not be exhausted!? When i think of the alternative----no, i don't think about that----

I have a 2004 DLT 3000 lawn tractor. It won't go fwd or rev. Motion Control Lever (MCL) does noting when moved fwd. or rev. Drive belt appears OK (no breaks, ~ 41.5" when stretched) as are all the pulleys & Center Span Keeper (as much as I can see). Moving the MCL does not move anything - no tensioner, no pulley, no belt - nothing! There's no tension on the drive belt at all no matter where the MCL is positioned. Am at a loss. Please help.

Also, what is the web link to Sears for a service manual or schematics?

JCS5604
you'll need the full model number off the ID plate usually found in the cavity under the tilting seat. Go to the link below to investigate exploded parts diagrams, manuals, etc. for your machine.

also best to start your own thread next time.

Here is a link that might be useful: sears parts