SO what has lead up to this? Oil level been maintained? Has any work previously been done? I would wonder if there is a loose valve guide- which in turn makes the valve hard to depress- could be actually affecting the cranking. A reach, but easy to check. With both valve covers off, look inside the spring and see if the guide protrudes further out than the other.

It was hard to start when had to bypass to get it to start. I first thought valves need to be adjusted. Then I thought compression release. Then after doing with the plugs out I thought bet push rod. Is it possible for a rod to be bent and not to be able to tell just by looking at it? I have always thought it would be pretty obvious if the rod was bent. I have the sump off and I dont see anything. My next step is probably the flywheel then the heads. But I would rather not take anything off I dont have to so ideas please. i will check the guides next time I get time to work on it.

Are the belts to the tranny and mower disconnected? Could be turning a lot of stuff if something is engaged which shouldn't be?

"Hard to turn" Will the battery spin the engine with the plugs out? Could it be a weak battery/bad connection which is confusing the issue?

What did you have to "bypass" to get it to start if that's what led us here?

Good luck,

Ev

battery strait to starter so I bypassed everything. Right now it is on the work bench with the oil pan off nothing attached to the crank. So I believe the reason it was hard to start was because of what ever is causing the resistance in the motor. Just like when the valve need adjusting it is hard to start but starts better when jumping it straight from the battery. So if the alternator exploded could that be causing the resistance? I have to decide what the next step is without just taking random parts off. I guess the flywheel would be next. I have it at a separate location from my house so I'm limited on when I can work on it.

After spending more time I realized it does turn easier without the sump. The sump seems to have alot of hairline cracks in it that will catch your finger nail. That does not seem normal to me is it? My best gues now is that the crank is bent? Does anyone have any ideas on what it can be when it is alot harder to turn with the sump on? I have a 24 hp intek that turns easy so I know it is not just standard friction from the crank to sump.

Doubt very much that you have a bent crankshaft. You might have started by giving some history on this engine. Did you buy it new? Did you buy it off Craig's list or somewhere like that? Was it running OK and suddenly developed this condition?
Did it have a sump gasket on it when you took it a part? Are you using a sump gasket when you put it back for test? Does the crankshaft have end play? Perhaps it is the sump that is bad, can't really tell that from here, perhaps pictures.

Good luck with your queries on the other forum.

Walt Conner

Without seeing the sump it is hard to determine whether your "hairline cracks" are actually CRACKS or simply what is known as "casting flash".
Minor casting flash is often mistaken for a crack.
The fact that a fingernail will catch indicates it is probably a raised protuberance and not a rift crack or separation.

As has been said by Walt, history might be helpful.
If you acquired this engine from an unknown source, those hairlines you see may be real cracks, but there should be some signs of an impact that would have been necessary to do that kind of damage.

The engine ran fine then was hard to start. The cracks seem to be in the same spot inside and outside the sump. The mower was bought new. It did have a gasket on when I took it apart. I did not add gasket when I put it back together. After looking at the sump closer it has marks on the spot where the crank rotates in the sump, where the bearings would be if the engine wasnt throw away junk. The marks seem to be friction marks. i will work on pics my digital camera is old but I will see what kind of pic I can get.

"where the bearings would be if the engine wasnt throw away junk."

When you buy a $600 engine you do not get a $2,000 one.

Walt Conner

Gee whiz! Turns hard with the sump on. Friction marks (galling?) where the bearings would be.
Cracks inside and out at that locus too!
Beginning to sound like somebody installed the crankshaft PTO seal using a sledge hammer to seat the seal.

I didnt say I bought a 600 dollar engine. I also am not the one who put the els sticker on it. no matter how much it cost it is still a poorly made engine. I bought a Dixon mower with the engine already on it. Please send me the link where I can find the engine for 600 that is about half of the prices I see. I got on here asking for help to find out what the problem is your comment was a waste of everyone's time walt. Again Walt please send me that link on the price.

OK, I won't bother you any more. By the way, I am the only person on the 4 forums I monitor who is offering Dixon help.

Good luck,

Walt Conner