Maybe your gas tank is low and not enough gas for the engine when tilted.

Here is a link that might be useful: my rustic bajan garden

tank is full

touchy seat safety switch cutting out when yer duff leans the wrong way ? Or wire shorting when tractor is leaning just so...?

I think I know this one...

I have a temperamental honda push mower that is VERY sensitive to water in the system.

When its at a certain angle the engine will stall -or- run terribly ... a little water in the float bowl...

Try putting a little dry gas in your tank and run it around the yard a bit.

Or check on the float blowl and see it there is a brass button on it to drain the water from the carb.

good luck - Dave

the seat safety switch is disabled,can't find any wires that might be shorting out,although that was also suggested by a friend.tomorrow i'll try the dry gas and draining carb.thanks for replies.

tried everything mentioned but no luck,so from reading other posts with similar problems i checked to see if both cylinders were working by removing spark plug wire.when i removed wire from right cylinder engine slowed a bit,put wire back on removed wire from left and engine shut off,so i guess theres a problem with the left cylinder.

I suggest that you first try to isolate whether it is an electrical-related issue or fuel-related issue. Could certainly be something more weird too, but I would start in those two places.

Does the engine spit and sputter first before it dies? Does it ever backfire after it quits? This might indicate an electrical issue where the system is cutting the engine. Would probably be a safety switch problem or an unshielded [I think yellow] wire touching ground.

However, if it is fuel delivery-related, the engine would more than likely appear as though it simply runs out of gas, and there will be no (or not as much anyway) spitting and sputtering. In this case, maybe a carb rebuild would be in order. And you could check the fuel delivery system too - hoses, fuel filter, vent blockage at the gas cap.

doesn't really spit and sputter and it never backfires.i have found now that when it starts to dies if i press the gas to the floor it will keep going,and now besides only dying when tilted to right it starts to die when making left turn.i also notice that it doesn't do this until after mowing maybe 10 or 15 minutes.also i'm new to this,and maybe it's normal but it seems that the muffler and engine is very hot.

You said: "...from reading other posts with similar problems i checked to see if both cylinders were working by removing spark plug wire.when i removed wire from right cylinder engine slowed a bit,put wire back on removed wire from left and engine shut off,so i guess theres a problem with the left cylinder."

Actually the problem would be with the right. If there is little difference with the right wire removed then the engine is running mostly on the left side. Without the left, the motor dies so the right side is not working correctly.

yeah your right i just didn't type what i meant.anyway i changed the fuel pump and i think that fixed the problem, mowed for over an hour with no problems.

***"i changed the fuel pump and i think that fixed the problem"***
Please do a future update on this. And post the engine numbers so an IPL can be viewed.
If replacing the fuel pump made a difference, I can only surmise that the fuel pump was right on the verge of not delivering enough fuel to maintain the correct fuel level in the float bowl when tractor tilted to the right. If this was the case, that also "might" explain why you thought the engine and muffler seemed very hot. A lean fuel mixture will cause extra heat in a gasoline fueled engine. Of course, it could just be you never had a reason to be that close to the hot parts until you began chasing the gremlins. I still have not reconciled how pulling one plug wire could kill the engine, while pulling the opposite wire only caused the engine to "labor". Maybe the right bank was running SO MUCH LEANER (don't know why, maybe that side also has a "vacuum leak" between the head and the intake manifold) that it just could not keep going alone, but the left cylinder DID HAVE just enough power output to keep going when it was the only cylinder "firing". Maybe the right bank is weaker due to difference in valves adjustment compared to the left cylinder.

yeah maybe there is still a problem with one cylinder being weaker than the other, i don't know since i haven't pulled the wires since i changed the pump but i am going to try that again to see what happens.and as far as the heat issue it's also true that i really was never that close before so maybe i just thought it was really hot,but for now it's working with no problems keeping my fingers crossed.
as for engine numbers i've searched everywhere and can't find anything anywhere.

If you want to check if you have a vacuum leak causing one cylinder to be "leaner" than the other cylinder, do this check. Do this using spray can carb cleaner only. NOT ETHER! Insert the plastic straw (that is taped to the can, make sure the can has one before you leave the store) into the nozzle. Locate the "mounting flange" where the intake manifold fastens to the cylinder head (one flange per cylinder). With the engine running at the slowest idle RPM it will stay running at (but don't adjust anything on the carb, just mess with the throttle setting). With the engine at slow idle, spray a small amount of carburetor cleaner directly on the gasket seam while listening for a change in the engine RPM. If you do have a vacuum leak there, that cylinder is operating on a "lean mix" due to the additional air being drawn into the cylinder. The carb cleaner provides "additional fuel" to the cylinder by being drawn in at the leak. What you will notice (if there is a leak) is a significant increase in the engine RPM. Check both cylinders this way. Spray only a little bit at a time. If you get carried away and spray too much, the air cleaner intake could pick up on the fumes and give you a false result.
Check for engine numbers on the engine "fan shrouding" or on the valve covers (if this is an overhead valve V-twin).

found the model numbers
model 402707 type 0241-01 code 85091312

arghhhhh!!! thought i had solved the problem but tried today and it's back to dying on incline,guess i'll try the head gasket test.

***"guess i'll try the head gasket test."***
I hope you did not think I meant the HEAD GASKET! I know I
said,"Locate the "mounting flange" where the intake manifold fastens to the CYLINDER HEAD (one flange per cylinder).
That was before you provided the engine numbers... Your engine is an "Opposed twin flat head", so the gaskets you need to test, are where the intake manifold fastens to the CYLINDER (not head). If you have not downloaded your free IPL from Briggs, click the link below. Find item # 52 in the IPL. Those are the gaskets I suggested you test. BUTT, (and this is a big butt), I doubt these gaskets are causing the dilemma you are having. I'm beginning to think you have a problem in the float bowl.

Here is a link that might be useful: Many a fold

ok i changed the gaskets and still no change the engine still dies when i pull the left cylinder plug wire off but only changes slightly when i pull right cylinder plug wire off. i also checked coil and plugs everything is good,good fire in both plugs.i tried to mow and the engine started to die when i made a left turn but i pressed gas pedal to floor and it picked up ,but next left turn it died it feels like it's running out of gas.i pulled the hose from tank to the carb and got a steady stream of fuel.i then took the air filter and top half of carb off and the float bowl was almost empty does this explain anything ? is the fact that it dies when i pull the left plug off,and the stalling when i try to mow connected or could these be two seperate issues?

OK, so putting a load on the engine stalls it. I don't read anywhere where you checked the compression on the weak cylinder.

ok i checked the compression and both cylinders are reading the same 110 psi.so i have good spark on both cylinders and good compression so i'm assuming it's a fuel problem that one cylinder is not getting fuel.if this was on my car my next move would be a fuel injector,but with a carb is there something specific to look for that would prevent fuel to one cylinder or do i need to clean and rebuild the whole carb?

valves.

Not valves! Nothing in a valve train will react to gravity or angle of inclination.
Fuel level in the float bowl is another story though. At this point let me ask this: Does the "running" occur instantly when you operate on the slight angle? or does it require maybe a couple of seconds or so for the problem to begin?? When the problem occurs, does it seem to exist at the same "amount of trouble" or does it run worse and worse the longer you remain on the tilted ground?

it takes a few seconds to stall but now i find it's getting worse stalling on left turns unless i floor it.i'm going to try a different carb if i can find one.as for the valves would compression be the same if there was something wrong with valves,and can they be adjusted on this engine and how? thanks for all the replies,this is turning out to be quite a challenge.

The detail about how you can "floor it", or "press the gas to the floor" and keep it going.
Does this Yardman actually have a foot operated "gas pedal" that you are pushing to open the throttle on the carb.? Or are you pushing down on the foot control pedal for the transmission, and just calling it "giving it the gas"? Or are you moving the engine throttle adjustment lever on the "dash board" and calling that"giving it the gas? I know I probably sound idiotic "askin' alla these questions"!!!!!!!!!!! But you yourself said this was becoming a challenge, and so we start sifting through the "small details", looking for the big answer. I really want to know: "Flooring it, gassing it", whatever you are doing..........would that action normally increase the ENGINE RPM, or would it make the tractor go faster across the ground, without increasing engine RPM??

yeah i just realized that it's not the throttle that i'm flooring,(i'm such an idiot).the pedal i'm pushing would be the transmission i guess because it makes the tractor move faster.the throttle that increases engine rpm is on the dash and i always have it wide open when i'm mowing.

When the trouble begins, do you notice "black smoke" from the exhaust? When you remove the spark plugs, what color do you see in the tip area (threaded tip, electrodes, ceramic insulator)?

switched carburetor and mowed for about 20 minutes until one of my belts broke, with no stalling.i'm going to get another belt and see what happens.if it stalls again i'll take notice about the black smoke and plug conditions.i will post an update

Thanks for the update and good mowing to ya! Sorry about the belt.

We have a greenfield mini mow doing something very similar
It only has to drop front wheel into a 60 mm hole and it will stall BUT ONLY WITH THE CUTTER PLATE DOWN
we then decide to put back wheel up on a normal housebrick.so cutting plate was clear of ground same thing runs fine till u try to engage the cutting deck
we mow 3 normal house blocks with it and they all have small incline and it only stalls in 2 spots .In fact turn mower around and it will mow these spots .tried seat switches and any thing else that made any sense .Its under warranty so dont want to muck too much with it .Will let u know if we find the problem

I am still perplexed by the uphill/slope mower going down. I am guessing that one sits in a garage on your property as a nogo? If you have changed the oil regularly, and maintained the rest with little effort, internal engine problems are probably not the cause. Do you have an update on that mower?

Do you have a model number and some specs on the newly posted problem?

We found problem.Mower only 3 moths old.In factory they never routed the wiring through the correct hole it was getting pinched between the cover and the body.when the cutter blade was down and u hit a hole it was enough to twist the frame which then rubbed on the wire.Eventually the insulation wore through and cause the ignition to earth. out.eventually if would have done it all the time but because it was only doing it when it dropped into a small hole was what made diagnostician difficult.
Moral of story inspect all wires carefuly as this was little more then a pin hole but just enough to short..It took 3 months to rub through the insulation and then it only occurred cause it was not assembled correctly at the factory .so there may or may not be more of them show up .I guess it depends if it was a one off or the same Rambo doesnt know what he is doing

OK, I found and fixed my lawn mower. It's the carburetor. The solenoid that opens to let gas into the carburetor is the problem. The little rubber "seat" came off the solenoid plunger and gets stuck at the gas intake of the carburetor. This allowed a little gas in to the carb but when I throttl up doesn't allow enough gas into carb.

Simple fix. I cleaned surfaces an crazy clued the rubber tip to the end of the plunger of the carburetor.

IT RUNS LIKE A CHAMP.