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jimw606

Pto switch overheating

jimw606
11 years ago

Pto switch melted,clutch kicked out. Installed new one, it ran for a few hours and melted,clutched kicked out. jumped the connection to finish job, and it worked for about 30 minutes and the jumper wire got hot and the clutch kicked out.

It is like a circuit overload protection,, because after it cools the jumper will work again.

I haven't tackled the clutch gap setting but I will tomorrow,

Any ideas are certainly appreciated.

Comments (14)

  • jimw606
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Thanks Bill: Iwas so tired of searching and I forgot to say that I have a Sears 917.276101 54".

    I am going to start looking real close at the clutch assy. this A.M.
    I can hear a dragging sound when turning by hand, and I am now suspecting a bearing failure.
    Probably will need a new clutch.

  • rcbe
    11 years ago

    OP - really surprised the PTO elect overload at the switch didn't cause the main fuse to blow... definitely check the existing clutch and associated wiring for a damaged/partially shorted coil or bad wiring... something has to shorting to melt down that switch. a dragging bearing won't do such by itself.

  • mownie
    11 years ago

    I concur with rcbe on that comment, however........I would not be too surprised if a bigger fuse than what's supposed to be in place has been substituted. Any load great enough to melt a jumper wire or burn out a new switch in 30 minutes should certainly have blown the main fuse, if it is the correct amp rated fuse.

  • bill_kapaun
    11 years ago

    I have a hunch if you measure the OHMS of the clutch windings, you'll find they are too low. That would draw excess current.

  • jimw606
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Bill& Monie: The Ohms were indeed low, but the fuse is original. I bought the unit new.
    I found the bearings in the clutch to be very dry and noisy.
    However the bottom cover, where the adjusting nuts are, was rubbing the clutch drum really bad. Could hardly turn it by hand. I forced some grease in the bearings, and adjusted the clutch, but could get nowhere near the .012 air gap, without the cover rubbing. Ended up with an air gap of .040 to .050
    and it engages OK. ( I don't understand that) I checked the Diode, and it seems OK, but I did not take it out of line.
    I ordered a new clutch and switch, and new belts, as they are starting to crack.
    I have 470 hours on it now and other than grease and a battery, this is my first repair.
    Thanks to you guy's I was able to make this repair a little easier.
    I did discover that when engaged the clutch has a high amp draw, maybe 15 amps.

  • bill_kapaun
    11 years ago

    30 amp fuse doesn't do much in this case, since your 15 amp charging system would supply the PTO before any current went through the fuse/ammeter.

    IF it has an ammeter, did you notice a slight discharge or lower than normal + reading?

  • jimw606
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    I am having problems with my answer. It seems to be going out, but does not arrive here.

    Yes!
    I had a large discharge, (almost 15 Amp) Jumper I was using qas heating also.
    Shut down deck and let Battery charge for a while,started deck up and had about a 5amp draw, and it went to almost 0 as I mowed. Jumper only warm. I mowed about 30 mins.
    When I shut the deck down again, It went to 15 amp charge.

  • mownie
    11 years ago

    Well Duhhh! bill is precisely right about the aspect of the alternator assuming the electrical load when the engine is running. I never quite looked at it in that light until just now when he rubbed my nose in it. Where is my recipe for humble pie?
    I will forevermore be in awe of how one old dog can teach another old dog something new. Thanks bill. Arf!

  • bill_kapaun
    11 years ago

    Mownie- it'll get worse the older we get!

  • jimw606
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Additional Question. My manual says that the Clutch has a built in "Brake" to stop the pulleys within 5 seconds.
    This may be why I could not adjust down to the .012 air gap that was needed, without the clutch locking up.
    If voltage had been applied to the clutch while it was adjusted to .012 it may have turned freely.
    Is this assumption correct??
    Thanks to everyone. Jim

  • jimw606
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Well I received my new clutch, Belts, switch and an Idler yesterday.
    Installed everything back on and tested the switch with the jumper. NO HEAT!!!

    Installed the switch, burnished the clutch and tested. Everything seems to be OK.

    Side note. The clutch had a different electric plug, than mine. But I did accidentally find the adapter thrown in the bottom of the box, under the packing. Came close to throwing it away. I had already written the supplier, before I found it. FYI Thanks to all who helped. Jim

  • bill_kapaun
    11 years ago

    Glad it's working!

    I always hate finding the part I need AFTER doing the surgery!

  • jimw606
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Well, I mowed for 2 hours today with out a hitch, or heating of the switch.
    I guess she's going to be OK.

    Thanks again guy's

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