While your intents may seem perfectly clear to you, you don't exactly tell us what you are trying to do with this engine.
Your description/explanation seems to be that the engine you have gotten is going to be used in an application where there is no wiring present to operate an electric starter. Is this true?

If the new application has no starter wiring, and you do not need a key switch.............the sketch below should explain a basic wiring option. The fuse in this configuration not only protects against shorts, it can be removed as needed to disable the push button from being engaged when you are not using the engine (think.....curious kids).

If there is a need for a key switch I can furnish a different sketch.

This only addresses the starter solenoid operation.
Do you also need info on the engine stop (kill circuit) and charging system wiring?

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When I traded with the guy he gave me a wiring harness. Later on after texting him about the trade, he told me it was a harness for a different lawn mower same engine.. Which means the harness is different I am sure.

So I tried hooking all the things that fit with the harness I received and hooked up the starter solenoid and connected it all to a battery, and nothing. So its wired wrong lol.

Where can I find the correct harness for this engine? And I like the picture you provided me for the starter solenoid I think I might use that design, if I do, what wires do I need to hook up from the alternator so it charges my battery as well?

Also yes, if you could please supply me a kill circuit set up as well with the alternator/stator setup as well! Thanks a million!

MTD GT 1846.............
Is the MTD GT 1846 the tractor you want to drop the 422707 engine INTO????? or is that the tractor the 422707 came out of???
Knowing what tractor chassis the engine is going to be put into is more important than knowing where the engine came from, so you need to clarify that before we proceed to try naming wire colors and other such details.
The wiring coming from the engine is pretty easy to identify, but the wire colors on the chassis can and do vary depending on the brand and model of the tractor chassis.
Engine manufacturers install their basic engine harness or individual wires at the engine factory.
The tractor OEM tailors their chassis harness so it will fit and connect to the engine wiring when the engine is dropped in during assembly of the tractor.
In some cases, the tractor OEM may use an adapter pigtail to adjust for chassis wire connectors that may vary from one engine brand to another if the tractor OEM wants to use a single main harness for their entire model line. They just add a match-up pigtail to address whatever differences are present.
All that means for you is that you may have to make some "wire to wire" splices instead of being able to simply plug up 2 connectors (which might not match each other).

Well actually I am planning on converting this to a go kart, please don't give me crap haha it will take a lot of converting etc. But I need a project, and 18 Horses will propel me quite a ways!

Anyways so basically I just need some simple wiring for the starter, charging system, and kill system.

There are two wires that come out of the side of the engine by the carburetor that are made into one connector is that the stator wires? And then there is one wire that comes out by a spark plug wire, is that the kill switch?

Sorry if this is confusing haha I'm honestly terrible with wiring.

Slowly we inch our way down the road of facts.
The 2 wires that are made into one connector, are those both Black wires? and is the connector Yellow?
You do realize go karts typically use an engine that has a horizontal crankshaft, but this 422707 is a vertical crankshaft engine........right?
You are going to need a service manual. Since your profile does not include your e-mail address, you will have to e-mail me for a copy of the service manual if you want one.

And, talk nice! There are folks in this column who can and will help you all they can, but your statement:"Don't give me a lot of crap!" will surely limit the amount of info you might get from those who do not get paid for helping folks who evidently don't know beans about small engines! By: Rusty Jones

Here is a picture of the wires I am referring to maybe this will help you out a bit. And yes I realize that. I have either the options of trading for a horizontal engine if this engine runs, or converting through a right angle gear box or some other variation of getting the gearing switched to horizontal.

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Also my email is patthehat033@gmail.com I would really appreciate it if you sent me a service manual!!

They say a picture is worth a thousand words, but in this case I think it is worth more like .02 of a word.
The second picture does not show the real color of the connector nor does it reveal the color of both wires.
Colors are vital factors in knowing the specific alternator group when dealing with Briggs.

Okay the first picture is exactly how it looks it is a black wire coming out next to the spark plug wire.

The second picture is a red and black wire, after looking further at the picture. The red wire is on the left and the black is on the right if that helps out.

Both of the connectors at the end of the wires are white. I hope that helps, I really thank you for your help. They should be OEM connectors the guy I got it off didn't seem like the guy who would know how to install an aftermarket one..

OK, here is what you have coming out of that alternator.
Red wire will be for charging the battery. The Black wire needs to be left "unattached", unless you plan to have some lights on the kart, the Black wire will assume "not applicable status".
I will work up a wiring sketch for you. Maybe I'll do 2 sketches, one featuring a key switch if you think you might ever want to do it that way..........and one just using a simple toggle switch.
DO NOT....repeat DO NOT cut off the Red wire from the connector!!! Leave that wire alone just like you see it now! That little lump under the heat shrinkable tubing is THE CHARGING DIODE. Your engine has the simplest, and lowest DC output of all the Briggs alternators. There is not a voltage regulator.....that diode is all there is to the charging current output control. Be careful not to damage that diode.

OK, in the sketch below, use appropriate size wires and wire eyelet terminals for all connections.
Battery cables and starter cable need to be at least AWG # 6 size.
Small wires need to be AWG # 12 size.
DPDT switch rated 15 AMP or greater.
Push button switch rated 5 AMP or greater.
20 AMP inline fuse.
The connection you need to make to the Red wire coming from the alternator would best be done using matching connectors.
If you must cut the Red wire, cut it as close to the connector as you can so you will have enough of it left to splice to the extension wire connecting to the DPDT switch as shown in the sketch.
The Black wire from the alternator should be left in the connector but taped over thoroughly so it can't ever short to ground.

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I have lost my car keys!!!!!!!

Can you help me ?????

Fish