This has been a problem since day #1.
I warn you to STOP hammering on the wheels from the inside.
Hammering on the wheels (or hubs) from inboard places the hammer blows against the snap rings or circlips inside the differential that hold the axle shafts in place.
If you beat on the wheels you stand a good chance of breaking a snap ring, or the axle groove the snap ring engages in, and the axle shaft will run out of the axle housing. Getting THAT fixed will require splitting the trans case open to access the snap ring grooves. So don't trade you lesser problem for a bigger problem.

Pullers are the only logical technique to deal with a stuck on wheel like this, but it requires a specially tailored puller to confine the pulling stresses to only the central portion of the wheel/hub.
Using a puller that places the stresses on an outer region of the wheel will simply fold/bend the wheel over like putty.
Therein lies the problem, to my knowledge there are no "purpose built" pullers to address this issue.

The best alternative is to replace the tyres while the wheels remain in place on the tractor.
This might present its own set of complications if you planned to take the wheels somewhere and have the new tyres put on.
If you had planned to provide your own labor to remove/replace the tyres, this is not such a big deal.
The biggest concern in doing the tyres with the wheels on the tractor is stabilising the tractor against movement while you pry and manipulate the tyres off and on the wheels.
Best to do just one side at a time so the opposite wheel remains on the ground to help keep the tractor steady while you curse loudly.

CRC is not the juice of choice.

Get a can of PB Blaster and apply liberally repeating often over time. A little heat helps the PB Blaster wick into the space between the axle and the wheel. It may take time for the corrosion to release but it usually will.

Heed what mownie said regarding hammering.

Actually, Kroil or Aerokroil makes PB look like WD. Like lurker said, getting some good penetrant inside is a great way to start- whatever version is your choice.

Heed what mownie said regarding about cursing loudly- helps the wheel come off faster. At least that's how I took it :)

If you need to fashion a puller, we can give you a tip or two. May not be worth it for 1 job though. Some can pull via holes in the wheel near the hub simply enough. My big one pulls them off from the back of the wheel.

Thanks for your input, much appreciated. Have stopped hammering, will try something more penetrating and use time, rather then force.
Trying to change the tyres with the wheels on will be a challenge, also have to take the Conti muffler off, lol. The motor is a B&S 11 HP and runs very well now, after reading up on this forum with lots of input from Mowie7, thanks mate. Some of the modifications I did was a fuel tap (yes, one day the needle got stuck and lots of fuel got into the sump), also a new diode ($1,95 lol) and my new Volt metre shows it's charging up 15.8 volts most times at full throttle. I installed some nice LED lights on it and one is powered from the battery, so if the DC's get a bit too much for the new battery, I switch the big light on.

Thanks again and will keep you posted on the wheels.
Willemd

Cafe racer! The colour looks like "Fast Red".
I commend you on your use of "extra lighting" to modify the system voltage as needed.

This post was edited by mownie on Sun, Jul 20, 14 at 6:21

In answer to your question Willem, I do not sell them, it is home built job. Who ever makes millions on this -we can split the profits :) I've posted a better pic that I have of it that may help. It is basically 2 puller brackets made out of rectangular tube (the center is channel) that allow the smaller rectangular tubes to slide into it from behind the wheel. They tend to squarely pull the wheel that way and not bend it. The front side is a drawbar which was new last winter as the only other part that would fatigue was that piece which was previously channel with multiple holes punched through. I also had made a hydraulic pusher that I can use instead of the threaded rod. Last winter, I redid the threaded rods and nuts plus gave it a coat of paint . To redo it again, I would use Acme thread on the pusher rod. That one has been redone a couple times before. If what you have is having a difficult time centering, take a drill bit and cut a divot in the center of the axle for the pusher to rest in. A guy that worked in a paper mill told me about Kroil. I order it online as I knew that my regular haunts didn't have it. They say it gets in spaces up to a millionth of an inch. Worth its weight in gold.Once the wheels are off clean them up real well and use fluid film, or anti seize or grease and you will do fine. Nice looking ride BTW. Hope this helps, Tom
You wrote:
Thanks for the picture of your puller, looks good. Do you sell them? If not, where can I buy them.
Those wheels need to come off!! Can't have brand new tyres sitting doing nothing, lol, but also, if I do get a flat tyre, I would be stuffed anyway.

I made up a similar puller and tried that, the hard part is to get the force strait across from the back to the front. To much play on my puller, keeps sliding off centre.
Also, have only applied CRC on the front. Have not found a shop around here that sell Kroil. Ofcourse the hub is still rusted on the axle but I just finished drilling some tiny holes on the back and keep hitting it for the next few day. In the meantime keep looking for Kroil or PB Balster.

If I ever get the wheels off, I will mount grease nipples on the axle, or at least a provision to apply a lubricant.

Hi all, thanks for all your help, although I have not been able to get the wheels off as yet. I did made up a puller like Tom's, using 2x1 steel tubing, 3mm thick, it still bends the steel! Bugger that.
Also, can't buy PB Blaster or Kroil in Australia and US sellers will not ship to Aussie!?

Holding my patience or trying to, here is some questions I can put forward to your expert advice:
- Does the axle/shaft connection has any spines? I guess not. Only the key holding things in place?
-How much heat can I apply to the axle? Is there any oil seals (rubber) in the gearbox?
- I think I can buy the Kroil oil in a bottle from the US but definitely not the spray, I can relate to the reluctance sending spraycans by air. But will oil from a bottle still have the penetration?
Thanks again for your input, much appreciated.
Cheers,
Willem

Willemd - Sympathize with your problem(s), friend.
As to heating the axle/hub joint to try to loosen the corrosion - yes, a good idea, but beware heat damage to the axle seals located in the tranny hsg not too far away from where you would be applying heat.
Kroll oil - you might visit their website or contact their service dept to see if the non-aerasol material would still penetrate as well.

If your tranny is a standard gear shift type, consider removing the entire tranny with tires still mounted from the tractor frame in order to get better access to the tires themselves for a tire only changeout without removing the rim from the axle...might be easier than removing the muffler.

just some yankee ideas, friend... good luck.

Nice job on the puller. I did a transaxle swap last week and pulled the trans out w/ the stubborn wheel and set it between 2 saw horses. I actually bent the draw bar this time. I had small axles, so only used the 5/8" threaded rod too. Pressured it up and bam with the mall and after the 3rd time it started to move almost a 1/2 inch at a time. the toughest I've ever done. When pressure was off the bar, it was bent only by about 3/16". Did not bend the wheel though. Inverted like that, one could heat enough to help the penetrant seep in and repeat. Regular Kroil is great.

Thanks Tomplum. I found a Kroil seller that ships to Australia, should be here in 10 days. In the meantime I have been working on safety, lol. The lights flash amber in 3 different modes. Still got a 5 meter roll of flexible LED, comes with remote control and lots of different settings. Still don't know where to put it. Any suggestions?
Cheers, Willem