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solenoid-fuel
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Posted by smf_enterprises (My Page) on Thu, Jul 30, 09 at 15:56
| I have a lows 14/42 briggs & stratton ohv, with a fuel solenoid attached to the bowl on the carburator., which appears to be faulty.
In a briggs and stratton diagram of my motor, there is a screw type plug avilable for the bowl, which appears to be an alternative to the solenoid.
So, if i choose to eliminate the solenoid and plug the hole with the screw type plug, what is the upside vs. the downside, or is this erroneous thinking altogether? |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: solenoid-fuel
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| That solenoid is supposed to help prevent "after fire" resulting from lean mixture/hot shut down. Idle the engine for a minute or so, some say to shut engine off at 1/2 throttle, I replace solenoid with screw when the solenoid is bad. Walt Conner |
RE: solenoid-fuel
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***"appears to be faulty"***
In what way? If the solenoid is indeed "bad", you can just cut off the plunger portion of the solenoid valve with cutting pliers, and use the "now disabled" solenoid body to hold the bowl on. |
RE: solenoid-fuel
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| If you do remove it, and don't follow Walt's advice you will often get a big BACKFIRE!! when shutting down. I would not replace it either, just do what Mownie suggests and then follow Walt's advice. |
RE: solenoid-fuel
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| Walt, Mownie, and Wheelhorse, thank you for responding. Also thanks for over looking the improper spelling, as this is one of my pet peeves. Got in a hurry! However, back to the tractor. It is a Lowe's MTD to be exact. Tractor will crank and sounds great, then shuts down immediately after. I changed the spark plug, used fresh gas, found gasoline overflow mixed with oil, drained the oil/gas, refilled with good oil, have good fire, good gas, but had a backflow in the bowl, removed solenoid-fuel, pulled the plunger out with a set of pliers, put the modified solenoid back in place, the carburator float is not stuck either, still have the same cranking problem. Special note: the choke cable is bad and disconnected (and I've been told that this does not matter). Any new commentaries would be welcome! |
RE: solenoid-fuel
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***"Any new commentaries would be welcome!"***
Glad you said that.
Pet peeves?? If spelling, punctuation, grammar, etcetera bother you.........your pets will get plenty of exercise here.
Already you have presented some of "my pets" in this thread.
***"but had a backflow in the bowl"***
What are you trying to describe here?
***"removed solenoid-fuel, pulled the plunger out with a set of pliers, put the modified solenoid back in place, the carburator float is not stuck either, still have the same cranking problem."***
What CRANKING PROBLEM??
"Cranking" means you are spinning the engine (by any external means) in order to get the engine to run by attaining internal combustion as a result of the external "cranking". Cranking begins as soon as the engine begins to spin by anything other than its own internal combustion process. Cranking ends when the engine either "begins to run own its own internal combustion" or when the external forces are halted. When you turn the key to engage the starter, you are CRANKING the engine. If the cranking is sucessful, the engine will begin to run of its own volition. If the engine fails to begin running, this does not constitute "Will not crank", or "it has a cranking problem"
Going back to my other post, what exactly made you conclude that the fuel solenoid was "faulty"?
***"Special note: the choke cable is bad and disconnected (and I've been told that this does not matter)."***
Are you saying that the choke cable is disconnected from the carburetor completely? And that you are now unable to apply the choke? If so, have you done anything to block the choke plate open to prevent it from "slamming shut" across the carburetor throat?
And, you need to ask whoever told you "this does not matter" to explain to you the purpose of a choke and why they think it is "optional". |
RE: solenoid-fuel
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| "found gasoline overflow mixed with oil, drained the oil/gas, refilled with good oil, have good fire, good gas, but had a backflow in the bowl, removed solenoid-fuel, pulled the plunger out with a set of pliers, put the modified solenoid back in place, " The contamination of gas in you oil is most likely due to leaking carb float needle valve whether you cleaned it, it look OK, or whatever. I strongly suggest installing an in line gas shut off valve and using it when the engine is not running. That solenoid in the bottom of the carb has nothing what so ever to do with preventing gas from flooding the carb and on into the engine, engine oil. Other wise, see mownie's post above. Walt Conner |
RE: solenoid-fuel
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| Thank you, Mownie, and Walt!!! You have both given me an education. As for the "leaking carb foat needle valve" that is addressed by Walt, I had this inspected and serviced by a "professional service center" last year and they installed a repair kit, as a "just in case matter". I also have a newly installed in line gas shut of valve, and it is turned off except while attempting to use the tractor. Also, the reason that I modified the "solenoid-fuel" by removing the plunger/pin is because it was not responding to the electrical charge which tested positive, and again I was given some advice to at least try this. I can't thank you enough for clarifying these facts for me. I can not express how much I appreciate the lesson on "cranking vs. running", from you, Mownie! I never completely bought the whole "choke doesn't matter" thing either, (however the source from whence it came is quite often right on course) so I had to have someone with your level of knowledge to dispute the matter in the clearest of terms. I am very grateful to you for taking the time to break it all down, and be so specific, without taking shortcuts. So, I will work with the choke issue intensely, as it sounds like this may be the real problem, at this point. Again, thank you both very much, I have finally found a great place to go for more educated information about my tractor. Have a great day!!! |
RE: solenoid-fuel
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| It would have been great if you had posted the model number of the engine but I assume it is a 28--- since you said it was a 14 hp OHV engine. The carb choke on this engine has a spring spiraled around the choke shaft which holds the choke in the open position when no positive pressure (choke rod) pressure is exerted on it. Might check that this spring is not broken or not anchored, uncommon. Walt Conner |
RE: solenoid-fuel
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| I need some help. I have a GX345 that I have to crank several minutes while working the choke and throttle to get it to start. I've had it to 2 dealers and they can't seem to find a problem; cleaned and sdjusted the carb. Once you get it started it seems to be okay; however, let it sit for about a week and it's back to cranking. One dealer said it may be the solenoid ($150.00 part) and he doesn't really want to replace it because he isn't sure that's the problem. Anyone familiar with where I might start to look? Thanks, Ed |
RE: solenoid-fuel
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What solenoid? if its fuel it is easy to test? Don't the GX have a curcuit board like the 425????
OK, I try to narrow it down to fuel starvation problem or a spark problem first? have you tried priming it when it won't start and have you verified that the choke is in fact choking when you pull or push the lever up? My LX266 choke is spring loaded open to prevent leaving the choke on. I would think if it don't start while trying normal cranking and if you remove the air cleaner and spray carb. cleaner down the throat of the carb. and it fires you would have a fuel flow problem? if it don't fire off the carb cleaner (provided you didn't spray too much or too little down the carb. 2 maybe 3 second blast) I would see if the spark is reaching the spark plugs? "0" I would also clean inspect and check gap on the plugs while I had them out. If you have a weak spark (orangeish color, should have a pretty blue spark at the plug end) or no spark I would suspect the coil or ignition problem??. |
RE: solenoid-fuel
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I have a similar problem. The engine cranks over fine but does not seem to get any fuel into the intake. I have removed the carb and cleand it thoroughly. The choke and throttle work fine. I pour fuel into the opening under the air filter and it starts up and then dies. There is plenty of fuel. I have checked the lines and filter and all are clear. Any suggestions? I have an MTD 14.5hp B&S 287707.
Thanks |
RE: solenoid-fuel
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***"I have removed the carb and cleand it thoroughly"***
Did you clean and probe the main jet and passages? Blow everything out with compressed air? What about the fuel solenoid valve? The solenoid valve plunger must be free to move in and out. If the plunger is free, you can push it into the body of the solenoid with a fingertip using moderate pressure, when you take your finger away, the plunger should "pop" back out to the extended position. To test it electrically, you need a 12 volt source (like the tractor battery). To test the solenoid operation safely, I recommend using a pair of jumper cables connected to the tractor battery or other vehicle battery so that when you do the test, you are away from the carb and fuel hose as well as the battery. Can't take a chance of making a spark around gasoline or a battery. With jumper cables connected properly to a donor battery, clamp the negative battery jumper cable jaw around the metal body of the fuel solenoid. Now, touch the end of the solenoid wire to the positive battery jumper cable jaw (it might require a small piece of bare wire inserted into the plastic connector to touch the terminal of the solenoid wire). If the solenoid is good, you should see and feel the plunger "pull into" the solenoid body when the wire is touched to the jumper cable. If you do not see the plunger pull in, press lightly on the end of the plunger to see if it pulls in with a bit of help. Once the plunger is pulled in, it should stay there so long as you hold the wire in contact with the jumper cable, and the plunger should extend when you break contact with the jumper cable. If the solenoid does not pull in, or stay in when the solenoid is powered up, replace it.
If the solenoid checks out good, then either your main jet is plugged, or gasoline is not entering the carb bowl.
When you remove the carb bowl, is it full of gas?
If not, there might be a problem in that the needle valve is not permitting fuel to enter carb. If the bowl is full of fuel, and the fuel solenoid is good, you are probably dealing with a clogged main jet. Does this tractor use a fuel pump or is it gravity fed? |
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