That solenoid is supposed to help prevent "after fire" resulting from lean mixture/hot shut down. Idle the engine for a minute or so, some say to shut engine off at 1/2 throttle, I replace solenoid with screw when the solenoid is bad.

Walt Conner

***"appears to be faulty"***
In what way? If the solenoid is indeed "bad", you can just cut off the plunger portion of the solenoid valve with cutting pliers, and use the "now disabled" solenoid body to hold the bowl on.

If you do remove it, and don't follow Walt's advice you will often get a big BACKFIRE!! when shutting down.

I would not replace it either, just do what Mownie suggests and then follow Walt's advice.

Walt, Mownie, and Wheelhorse, thank you for responding.

Also thanks for over looking the improper spelling, as this is one of my pet peeves. Got in a hurry!

However, back to the tractor. It is a Lowe's MTD to be exact. Tractor will crank and sounds great, then shuts down immediately after. I changed the spark plug, used fresh gas, found gasoline overflow mixed with oil, drained the oil/gas, refilled with good oil, have good fire, good gas, but had a backflow in the bowl, removed solenoid-fuel, pulled the plunger out with a set of pliers, put the modified solenoid back in place, the carburator float is not stuck either, still have the same cranking problem.

Special note: the choke cable is bad and disconnected (and I've been told that this does not matter).

Any new commentaries would be welcome!

***"Any new commentaries would be welcome!"***
Glad you said that.
Pet peeves?? If spelling, punctuation, grammar, etcetera bother you.........your pets will get plenty of exercise here.
Already you have presented some of "my pets" in this thread.
***"but had a backflow in the bowl"***
What are you trying to describe here?
***"removed solenoid-fuel, pulled the plunger out with a set of pliers, put the modified solenoid back in place, the carburator float is not stuck either, still have the same cranking problem."***
What CRANKING PROBLEM??
"Cranking" means you are spinning the engine (by any external means) in order to get the engine to run by attaining internal combustion as a result of the external "cranking". Cranking begins as soon as the engine begins to spin by anything other than its own internal combustion process. Cranking ends when the engine either "begins to run own its own internal combustion" or when the external forces are halted. When you turn the key to engage the starter, you are CRANKING the engine. If the cranking is sucessful, the engine will begin to run of its own volition. If the engine fails to begin running, this does not constitute "Will not crank", or "it has a cranking problem"
Going back to my other post, what exactly made you conclude that the fuel solenoid was "faulty"?
***"Special note: the choke cable is bad and disconnected (and I've been told that this does not matter)."***
Are you saying that the choke cable is disconnected from the carburetor completely? And that you are now unable to apply the choke? If so, have you done anything to block the choke plate open to prevent it from "slamming shut" across the carburetor throat?
And, you need to ask whoever told you "this does not matter" to explain to you the purpose of a choke and why they think it is "optional".

"found gasoline overflow mixed with oil, drained the oil/gas, refilled with good oil, have good fire, good gas, but had a backflow in the bowl, removed solenoid-fuel, pulled the plunger out with a set of pliers, put the modified solenoid back in place, "

The contamination of gas in you oil is most likely due to leaking carb float needle valve whether you cleaned it, it look OK, or whatever. I strongly suggest installing an in line gas shut off valve and using it when the engine is not running.

That solenoid in the bottom of the carb has nothing what so ever to do with preventing gas from flooding the carb and on into the engine, engine oil.

Other wise, see mownie's post above.

Walt Conner

Thank you, Mownie, and Walt!!!

You have both given me an education.

As for the "leaking carb foat needle valve" that is addressed by Walt, I had this inspected and serviced by a "professional service center" last year and they installed a repair kit, as a "just in case matter". I also have a newly installed in line gas shut of valve, and it is turned off except while attempting to use the tractor.

Also, the reason that I modified the "solenoid-fuel" by removing the plunger/pin is because it was not responding to the electrical charge which tested positive, and again I was given some advice to at least try this. I can't thank you enough for clarifying these facts for me.

I can not express how much I appreciate the lesson on "cranking vs. running", from you, Mownie!

I never completely bought the whole "choke doesn't matter" thing either, (however the source from whence it came is quite often right on course) so I had to have someone with your level of knowledge to dispute the matter in the clearest of terms. I am very grateful to you for taking the time to break it all down, and be so specific, without taking shortcuts.

So, I will work with the choke issue intensely, as it sounds like this may be the real problem, at this point.

Again, thank you both very much, I have finally found a great place to go for more educated information about my tractor.

Have a great day!!!

It would have been great if you had posted the model number of the engine but I assume it is a 28--- since you said it was a 14 hp OHV engine. The carb choke on this engine has a spring spiraled around the choke shaft which holds the choke in the open position when no positive pressure (choke rod) pressure is exerted on it. Might check that this spring is not broken or not anchored, uncommon.

Walt Conner