Snapper RER drive wheel
Hi,
First I want to say thanks to everyone who has helped me with this problem so far I really appreciate it. I have a snapper RER and recently it started slipping, I was told to change the rubber drive wheel, which I did with no result. I posted this on here before and have tried all of the things that were suggested but one. The last one is to lower the drive wheel coming down from the mower. I was told that this is to be 3 7/8 inches down. Where should I start to measure this from? Also if I loosen the set screws will the wheel just slid down or do I need to do something else?
Comments (37)
walt2002
14 years ago"I was told that this is to be 3 7/8 inches down. Where should I start to measure this from?"
This measurement is from the drive face of the metal disc on the engine crankshaft to the top of the mower frame that the engine sits on. NOT to the bottom of the engine.
"Also if I loosen the set screws will the wheel just slid down or do I need to do something else?"
It MAY but if it has been on there for some time, it will likely need a little persuading, maybe even a lot of persuading. In which case, if it has been on there that long, I question if spacing is now your problem.
Are you one of the people we went thru the "Easy Start" clutch thing with and whether or not your drive wheel had a liner inside it?
Walt Conner
mownie
14 years agoIn this sketch, the measurements are from the UNDERSIDE of the mower frame. You can pretty much ignore the 3-3/4" measurement and just use the 3-13/16", or 3-7/8". Measure from underside of frame to the face of the drive disc (that would be the face the driven "tire" contacts).
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14 years agoI know it isnt for everyone, but i like to try things, that easy start clutch disc that these things have? i had a roll of hi temp gasket material about 1/8" thick, i cut a new disc out of it and put it in, well... no slip on that easy clutch anymore, granted it doesnt "work" anymore either, so wheelies are possible LOL>>> but least it never slipped anymore the whole time i used it. About 2 summers.
rlaws277
Original Author14 years agoWalt,
What do you mean by an easy clutch thing? and also a liner inside of it?walt2002
14 years ago"Walt,
What do you mean by an easy clutch thing? and also a liner inside of it?"The early Snappers had the rubber tired drive wheel mounted rigidly to a drive hub This made for rather abrupt starts especially after backing up and having a little slack in the internal drive chains. I have often said that is where they got their name, "Snapper" they snapped your neck when starting. That combined with the light front end made for doing "wheelies" as johninmd above apparently likes.
They revised that so that the rubber tired drive wheel rode free on a drum like drive hub with a liner inside the drive wheel furnishing friction drive against the drum like hub this slipped some on sudden engagement softening the start.
IF anyone is having trouble with excessive slippage from this drive, it is not installed properly, not adjusted properly OR there is something out of order with the drive.
Walt Conner
walt2002
14 years agoI should have added in above post that the most common cause of excessive slippage, failure to dive, in the soft start system is people not realizing the new drive wheel they install needs to have a liner inside.
Walt Conner
walt2002
14 years agoWell please excuse my feeble mind, that fiber disc BESIDE the ribber tired drive wheel is NOT a friction drive part, it is merely a spacer, a common mistake that I think johninmd above is making.
Walt Conner
rlaws277
Original Author14 years agoI did notice that when I first got the mower that it would launch hard after I had it in reverse?? When I went to purchase the new wheel the guy asked me if I wanted a liner for the wheel? I told him no because I did not see one with the old wheel, could this liner have been my problem all along and not the drive wheel? or a combination of both?
walt2002
14 years ago"When I went to purchase the new wheel the guy asked me if I wanted a liner for the wheel? I told him no because I did not see one with the old wheel, could this liner have been my problem all along and not the drive wheel? or a combination of both?"
It is quit simple, IF your rubber tired drive wheel bolts directly to the drive hub, you do not need the liner in the rubber tired drive wheel. IF the rubber tired drive wheel is sandwiched between a plate and the drive hub, you do.
You are right, your problem could have been one or both. The liner is easily missed in an old wheel.
Walt Conner
mownie
14 years agorlaws277, the "liner" being referrenced here is called a "fiber thrust washer" in the service manual, and simply "thrust washer" in the parts manual (item # 5 in IPL). It is analogous to a "clutch disc" if you were comparing it to an automobile component.
walt2002
14 years agoI doubt very much if the part I am referring to is called a "fiber thrust washer" I expect the "fiber thrust washer" is what I referred to as a spacer. The CRUCIAL Rubber Drive Wheel Liner I refer to is inside the rim of the Drive Wheel, a LINER.
Walt Conner - I will be off line for a few days.
walt2002
14 years agoAnd as yet another follow up - The Fiber Disc is NOT at all like a clutch disc, again that is a spacer and has nothing at all to do with providing drive torque.
Walt Conner
rlaws277
Original Author14 years agoThe drive wheel does bolt directly on the drive hub, there is a small liner, looks like a brake pad that sits in the drive wheel, this is not connected to the drive wheel and moves freely back and forth, i thought it was to prevent the tractor from rolling backwards? does this help apply pressure to the drive wheel?
johninmd
14 years agoi dont care what you call it, fiber washer, clutch disc, whatever, leave it out and you wont move, why i put the ones i made in mine, and yes, no more easy start.But no more slipping either. Now i will say this, was a cpl years ago wehn i did it, and it is possible i have forgot something by now about doing it.One i have is a 41" cut, 12 hp. 1986 model. diff. engine, cut like a sob, steered like a semi..
And i dont use mine anymore, i went back to a LT..
walt2002
14 years ago"The drive wheel does bolt directly on the drive hub, there is a small liner, looks like a brake pad that sits in the drive wheel, this is not connected to the drive wheel and moves freely back and forth, i thought it was to prevent the tractor from rolling backwards? does this help apply pressure to the drive wheel?"
Well I have been off line for several days. Yours is NOT an "Easy Start" clutch then. The thing that moves back and forth freely with the pad on it is indeed a brake that is engaged when you press the clutch peddle and no, it does not have anything to do with providing drive.
IF you are still having problems with slippage, email me directly and I will try to help, bout 50 years of experience.
Now for johninmd
"i dont care what you call it, fiber washer, clutch disc, whatever, leave it out and you wont move, why i put the ones i made in mine, and yes, no more easy start.But no more slipping either. "
Mownie confused the thunder out of things by referring to the wrong part. I too, don't care what you say, you also are calling things by the wrong name and are mistaken about what does what. The "Fiber Thrust Washer" CAN be left out and the mower will move PROVIDED the drive wheel with the LINNER installed, the proper part, has been installed.
AS I have said at least twice, the liner of the "Easy Start" clutch, what really makes it work, is inside the rim of the rubber tired drive wheel. The tire is on the outside, the liner is on the inside. What mownie then miss called it, a " Fiber Thrust Washer" or something that way, as I have said repeatedly, is simply a SPACER, it helps keep the drive wheel more or less standing up in the right position, it is not intended nor does it provide an driving force UNLESS of course, someone completely jill--ts it as people are prone to do and so wipes out the entire operating principle which is ones privilege with his own equipment.
All my above posts contain the correct info.
Walt Conner
wconner5 at verizon dot netjohninmd
14 years agoWalt, if that is the case, then why would my 1985 41" RER, slip bad, hardly move, till i put a new thicker "washer" in? then it never slipped again, but did engage abruptly when letting clutch out?
i put on a new wheel, a new "Easy Start" clutch band, the brake shoe looking band the rides inside the drive wheels outer edge, and it still slipped till i made that "thrust washer"?
I am not saying you are wrong on what you call each part, nor what it is intended to do, but i cant sit here and not say exactly, what mine did. Maybe it was fubared in some way, i dunno.. but that "washer" is what made it move finally.
Not going to argue about it, its in the scrap pile now anyway.But at same time, i know what it did.walt2002
14 years ago"Walt, if that is the case, then why would my 1985 41" RER, slip bad, hardly move, till i put a new thicker "washer" in? then it never slipped again, but did engage abruptly when letting clutch out? " "but that "washer" is what made it move finally. "
Without seeing your machine, I don't know what your problem REALLY was and why it operated with the thick washer you fabed is what I have said repeatedly, and you yourself said, you cobbled it up to where the intended clutch would not work.
"clutch band, the brake shoe looking band the rides inside the drive wheels outer edge,"
?? The "Band" is inside the wheel, extending only slightly past the rim, sounds to me like you have something assembled incorrectly and the "Band" is not riding on the drum like drive hub.
Spring tension could be incorrect, cable adjustment could be off. There is a stop that may be preventing enough tension.
But regardless of your thoughts, the "Fiber Thrust Washer" does nothing but sort of keep the drive wheel in alignment.
Do as you please, you might as well just drilled a hole thru the ass'y and put bolt thru the parts.
Over and out.
Walt Conner
rlaws277
Original Author14 years agoWell I finally got the thing fixed. (My wife just gave birth to our 4th 3 weeks ago so time has been limited) I ended up having to move the pulley that is connected to the motor(the one that drive the rubber wheel and the belt for the blades)down a little, when I pulled the motor out and looked at the pulley I noticed that one of the set screws was extremely loose and the other was not tight at all. I think this allowed the pulley to move up?? Needless to say I put the pulley in the right position and reassembled everything and now it mows great. Thanks to everyone for help and thanks again for the manuals Mownie.
mownie
14 years agoWhoa! Congratulations on the newborn. I hope everything is going well with mom and child. Boy, I'll bet you have just one nerve left. In a few years, you need to get a couple of manually operated reel mowers for those kids to push, then you'll find out if you have what it takes to be ring master at a circus. Good luck.
hgoody77
14 years agolots of good info and folks around here i see. I just picked up a RER snapper. 25" cut. MN: 25086s. i see yall talking about manuals. is there a place i can get one. buy it or whatever? i put a new clutch drive wheel on it but it doesn't pull the best. pulls a lot stronger in reverses though for some reason?
Congrats on the new baby. i have 3 boys. then i figured what the cause was.
mownie
14 years ago***"about manuals. is there a place i can get one."***
Well, It used to be you could go the the website at the link below and plug in the model number and be able to download a free parts manual & a service manual in PDF format. But the last few times I've tried, the response comes back negative no matter what model number I plug in???? They do have a toll free number for you to call, or you can still e-mail contact (I think).Here is a link that might be useful: Red Snapper
walt2002
14 years agoYou can contact me directly and I will try to help IF you like, address below, put in proper format.
Walt Conner
wconner5 at verizon dot netkennethwilson
13 years agoMy posts are being posted to my cache, not to this forum online. When I ran ccleaner and then came back here, I found my post was missing. Nothing has been posted here since 2009, as you can see.
pmspirito
12 years agoMy 2011 RER has been slipping. I checked the disc location. It measured 3 13/16ths so I lowered it to 3 7/8. Drives great but now when I go to engage the blade the handle will not latch in place. I do not want to return the disc to its original position because it slips so badly the mower will not move on the slightest incline. Thanks for your help.
walt2002
12 years agoWell adjusting the height of that drive disc would have nothing to do with the blade not staying engaged. You only moved 1/16" according to what you said and that sure is not going to affect the belt length, I would have moved it to 4" if I were you.
Walt Conner
bob_sloan94
8 years agoWalt,
I have been reading your comments regarding the
replacement & adjustment of the Clutch on a Snapper rider. I have had some issues with mine (everything
is working fine now) & I completely
concur with what you had to say. The
reason I am writing you is that you indicated you might be able to help someone
get a Shop Manual for this machine. If
you have any insight into this would you please let me know. I have managed to down load a Parts List
& an Operator Manual but I have not been successful in obtaining a Shop
Manual & I would very much like to have one. I am especially interested in a wiring
diagram so I can trouble shoot the interlock safety circuit. I cannot find the problem in mine & it is
driving me crazy.Thanks, Bob Sloan
tinkerer200
8 years agoI think it was Mownie who offered to try to get a manual. I have never bothered with one.
Walt Conner
bob_sloan94
8 years agomownie(7), did you see my post for Walt? Do you have any idea how to get hold of Shop Manual?
bob_sloan94
8 years agoOK, Thanks! Does anyone have any ideas about how I can get my hands on a Shop Manual for these mowers?
Bob
racanrow
8 years agoI couldn't find the shop manual for my 2012 RER (it's either a 7800784 or 7800785 ) through the Snapper website, so I sent them an email. They sent me a PDF copy of the last Snapper RER shop manual, published several years ago. Cosmetics of the newer models have changed but not the mechanics. Also, my RER drives fine without the blade engaged. Once I engage the blade, everything is fine until I apply the brake/clutch pedal again. When I release the brake/clutch pedal, the mower will not move forward unless I rock it back and forth. But it will work in reverse. And the problem moving forward is worse if I have applied the brake/clutch pedal and placed it in reverse and then try a forward gear. I'm assuming that the problem lies in the drive disc height adjustment. I plan to replace the driven disc while I'm at it. The shop manual shows a "Tool To Hold Driven Disc #3-2392" that will help with removing/installing the driven disc and it will also help with setting the correct distance for the drive disc. The current part number appears to be 7060601YP Snapper or Briggs & Stratton and may be called a "Drive Disc Adjustment Tool" or "Adjustment Gauge".
rustyj14
8 years agoRusty J. sez:" The wizards who designed these machines ought to be strapped to one, and taken for a long ride to mower heaven." I have a 1983 Model. It just keeps going and going and going. Replaced one disc. Didn't get it out this year-too many problems with my other stuff! Hello to all!
mownie