I was not aware they were different but then, I try not to let a Tec. engine on the place. I would try it as is, if it doesn't work, you can always disconnect the Interlock until you can get the correct one/procedure.

As for charging, if the 311707 has a regulator, connect the single out put wire from the regulator to the side of the starter solenoid where the cable from the battery connects.

Same if it does not have a regulator. There will probably be two wires coming from under the cooling shroud to a duplex connector. ONE of these wires will have a "fat" place in the wire just ahead of the connector. This is the diode for changing the AC from the stator to DC to charge the battery. Run a wire from the connector of this "fat" wire to the battery cable side of the starter solenoid.

That 31 series may have a carb solenoid on it which requires 12V when running. IF so, this may present a problem assuming the Tec. engine did not.

Walt Conner

This does have a dual ac/dc output the Tec had only d/c. This unit does have a 12 v solenoid that is pre connected to the 12 v ac side I assume that the 12 volt is complete unless I waNT TO ADD 12 VOLT LIGHTS. So if I test out the interlock and it works then I,m set . if it doesn't then d/c it and run without interlock. this system seems simple kill to ground the ignition key is isolated on, continuity to ground off single wire. The start is simple push button manual switch. I assume the interlock module provides a kill function that doesn't provide a direct ground to prevent a short or battery drain. This unit has a kill switch on the gear position lever that is continuity in neutral no continuity in gear or roll position. The deck has switch shows continuity in neutral no continuity in drive position. Should I connect the magneto ground wire to the single wire to ignition on wire? Should I connect the dc side to + battery terminal thru the start switch? What is the function of the solenoid on the carb? Any other problems with this conversion.

S

Understand this! The magneto ignition of the Briggs & Stratton engine does not use, does not need, nor does it want........any kind of external voltage from anything.....connected to it! The magneto is completely self powered and self contained. No wires of any kind can be connected to it except the spark cable and the grounding kill wire circuit. Any kind of voltage connected to the magneto will kill the magneto as surely as a blow from a sledgehammer.
***"This -UNIT- does have a 12 v solenoid that is pre connected to the 12 v ac side"***
Which "UNIT" are you referring to? The engine or the chassis? It's not clear as you also use UNIT when referring to the chassis (gear shift switch).
And I think you meant 12V DC on the fuel solenoid, solenoid will not work on AC.
The fuel solenoid is to prevent the bang or pop from the exhaust when you do a hot shut down. The fuel solenoid needs to be connected to a circuit that becomes unpowered as soon as the ignition switch is turned to the off position. If the ignition key switch has a circuit that becomes powered with 12V DC in the starting and running positions, that is the circuit you want to connect the fuel solenoid to.
No need to connect the DC output wire from the engine through the ignition key switch. Just connect it to the battery side of the starter solenoid as Walt said, it needs no kind of switch and it will not drain battery.
Post the model & serial number of the Snapper chassis and we might be able to view a wiring schematic at the Snapper website. If we could do that, I could tell you the missing information you are trying to guess at.

snapper model 28085s serial 63050544 had Tecumseh 8-10 hp electric start and recoil.

Snapper manual 7006152 pg 78 schematic for 17 hp BS have snapper service manual for series 4,5,6 #07012 (ir 8/88 issue ) Section VI Electrical pgs 46-53 Also diagram from Snapper for BS Tecumseh electrical and manual start.

Sears 17 hp motor model platinum Briggs Stratton 311707 type 0132E1 code 9809008ze. Has electric start. solenoid to carb no recoil starter.
I can photo document this machine and engine if it will help. Thanks for your assistance. I am a trainable monkey but very confused with the electrical parts.pjb

Hmmm, my own Snapper RER is a 28086S, so I have the manual #07012.
Do you have that manual # 7006152 in PDF format? If so, could you e-mail me a copy?
The diagram for the electric start models key switch shows no "switched 12V DC" in the form of an "Accessory position". The ignition key switch only switches 12V DC to the starter solenoid for starting, and it switches the magneto wire to ground for killing the engine when the key switch is turned off. So it looks like there is not going to be a switched 12V source for the fuel solenoid from the ignition key switch. We can come up with a "work around" for that detail.
Per the instructions on page 51 of manual 07012, is your interlock module stamped as Type T-K? or is it stamped B?
I'm going to have to see if your Tecumseh engine is covered in an old Tecumseh manual I have in the barn, so that will have to wait til morning.

I don't have the manual 706152 in pdf format. I have been using the manual 07012 and have that one in in pdf. Mine has only the single wire to on/off switch as pictured in 07012 pg 46 fig 6.1
The interlock is not marked but is three wires red , brown and black. Came off the TEC I assume its a TK. The color is a match to TK According to parts tree (http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=snapper&mn=28085+28%22+8+HP+Rear+Engine+Rider+Series+5&dn=7575).

The alternator is dual ac/dc according to parts tee diagramhttp://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=briggs_and_stratton&mn=311707-0132-E1&dn=55140009E

That seems to match the briggs 17hp 311707 diagram http://www.odref.com/briggsandstratton/model-31/311700-ms5514-1102.pdf.

If you want to contact me directly my email is pjb2 zero zero five at gmail.com. I do have another schematic from Snapper no web address for this one. I hope this helps as I am confused and don't want to fry any of the electrical components.

Thanks for including the manuals numbers as this helps me being on the same visual page as your obvious superior understanding of this problem.pjb2005

Well as usual, I didn't read all the way thru above but the best thing to do about "fixing" the carb solenoid thing is replace it with the plug made for that purpose.

Walt Conner

***"the best thing to do about "fixing" the carb solenoid thing is replace it with the plug made for that purpose."***
Or you could just cut off the plunger that sticks out the end of the fuel solenoid and continue to use the solenoid to secure the bowl to the carb. Of course, that "ruins" a typically $60 solenoid.
pjb, was your Tec engine just a "pull start engine"? or was there a separate plunger switch to control an electric starter?
Your key switch having only a single wire running to it is not going to serve the electric starter on the new 31 series engine. And if you plan on starting this 17 HP engine with a pull rope......I shall call you "Sir".
If you want to use the electric starter, we gonna have to get you fixed up with a different key switch and some wiring. Game on?

Walt the plug you refer too is available were? Isn't this to prevent "afterfire" will using a fuel shut off do the same thing? I have read the other posts and did buy a shut for this bs the old Tec didn't have one.

Mownie I will send you my diagrams and am not adverse to rewiring the switch "game on". just remember I am not a rocket scientist just a nurse. If any one has done a similar re-power Tec to BS throw in your 2 cents.pjb

Using the inline fuel shutoff valve will not accomplish the same end as the "anti-afterfire fuel solenoid", and the fuel solenoid does not accomplish the same thing as the inline shutoff valve. Each has its own goal.
The inline fuel shutoff valve is so you can shut off all fuel flow from the fuel tank. Install the inline valve between the tank and the fuel filter. Gravity feed fuel systems are notorious for drowning the engine when the machine is stored between uses. The fuel leaks past the needle valve in the carb and then right down the intake manifold into the engine, making its way to the crankcase lube oil where it can destroy the engine. Install the inline valve and keep it closed except when you are running the engine.
The plug Walt refers to is Briggs part # 691657 (Briggs calls it a "screw"), but only if the carb is made by Walbro. If your carb is made by Nikki, there is no plug to replace the solenoid.
But, since you are going to have to replace the ignition key switch anyway to be able to utilize the electric start, hold up before thinking of decommissioning the fuel solenoid. It is a benefit to stop the afterfire blast, after all.
Send me the documents you have and I'll peruse them and develop a plan. This will be neither rocket science.....or brain surgery.....for me (good thing too).

Correct me if I'm wrong(and I'm sure someone will) but my understanding of the "interlock" is that it doesn't require electric power and only serves to ground out the mag if the safety switches are not in the proper position. I know this is how the later Mowers are,but I'm not that familiar with the earlier ones, I changed from a pull start to an electric start on my 280921 and changed nothing in the interlock system and it worked fine.

dc3, you are precisely correct in that.
Apparently Snapper chose to inhibit the magneto from sparking to prevent the engine from running at cranking RPM only.
Snapper probably chose that kind of constraint system because it would prevent the engine from running if ground drive or deck was engaged, no matter if the engine was pull start or electric start.
Once the engine is running under its own power and the RPM is above the threshold setting of the interlock module (the point where the module quits "preventing spark"), the interlock module becomes "inactive" so the engine will continue to run when the ground drive, or deck, or both......are engaged. If the engine RPM falls below the threshold of inhibition while the drive or deck is engaged, the module will then become active and ground the magneto, killing the spark.
The interlock module is basically a "tachometer switch". The "spark count" or rate must be above a preset value (RPM) before the module switches off its internal ground circuit.

Ok the brain of the snapper has either a tecumseh or BS brain. Why is there a difference if the brain is just a tachometer? Wouldn't both BS and TEC have the same threshold RPM?
Mownie has provided me with detailed instructions that I am following to the letter to safely re-power this beast. Using Bosch type 5 relay as the safety switch without a tachometer function.

Thanks Mowie: That makes perfect sense,the "ground wire" would be the input for a tach(if you had one).the confusion is caused by Snapper never showing the internal circuits of the "interlock module".It would also seem that applying any power to the "ground" would damage the module.pjb2005: why stop at 17? B&S makes a 26HP single that looks like it would fit.

I "misspoke" I could only find a 21HP single with 1"x 3&5/32 crank.however there's a 30 HP twin with the 1" crank,some body could have a powerful RER.

I'll try to answer some of this, but I am "supposing" on the differences between the T-K module for Tecumseh engines and the B module for Briggs and Wisconsin engines.
My "guesses" of why there are 2 different modules could be listed as follows.
(1) Possibly a significant difference in the potential voltages in the primary circuit of the different brands magnetos.
(2) Possibly a difference in the "cranking RPM value", or the low idle RPM value, between the brands.
For the module to be effective for Snapper's intents, it must be able to distinguish "cranking RPM" from "running RPM" or it is useless.
Tecumseh and Briggs both seem to fail in offering any kind of "low idle RPM value" and instead refer you to "check with the equipment manufacturer", but Snapper fails to give it as well.

Snapper is "evasive" about the reason and only states that "if the wrong module is used, it will DEFEAT the purpose of the interlock system. They state only that the engines will start with the wrong module in place, not how/why that happens.

Why just 17 HP? pjb found the engine at a yard sale for short money.

A small attempt at humor(very small).Yes price is a big factor, sometimes.As to interlocks I just looked at a series 23 parts list and all mowers used 7063064 for Briggs,Kohler and Honda,Maybe Tec is the odd ball.

dc3, I figured it was an attempt at humor, in the very best rendition of "Tim the toolman Taylor", MoPower! Ayoont!

Yes, I'd have to agree that Tec was always an oddball.
But I still would like to know the answer to "Just how odd were they?"

I think Tec.would have folded long ago if Sears hadn't used them for so many years.

Hallelujah the engine install is completed the engine smoked a little once the oil burn off the muffler no more smoke.Smoke can leak out and the motor can still work. Now several maintenance questions. Snapper recommends OO grease for the chain drive case and differential case. What is OO grease any good substitutions. The driven disc is cracked but intact the drive disk is set to 3 /13/16" . Is it better to replace the driven disk as a unit or just the rubber drive? Thanks to Mownie and Walter for their help in re-powering the beast. Next is grease oil and maintenance. After that a little pimping (lights). Thanks for all your help. pjb

"What is OO grease any good substitutions."

I don't know, I have seen where other people have used a sub. but I never have.

" Is it better to replace the driven disk as a unit or just the rubber drive? "

There is only two options, replace rubber tired driven wheel WITH the liner or replace rubber tired driven wheel without liner. Always replace liner at same time. Cracked is no problem, chunking out is which will probably follow soon.

Walt Conner

Buy the grease at an outdoor power shop or a Snapper dealer.
It's available in generic brands at some outlets.
Technically speaking, it is "NLGI 00 specification", a semi-fluid, EP (extreme pressure) lubricant.
You can substitute NLGI 000 instead of 00, but don't deviate more than that. Anything thinner viscosity will just leak out (quickly), anything thicker and it will not "flow".

Great advice mownie. To follow up on what mownie said - if you need any help finding a local outdoor power shop or a Snapper dealer, this dealer locator below is pretty useful.

Here is a link that might be useful: Snapper Dealers