Awesome! All I have to do then is drain the oil and put a new one in. :)

And you are correct, I remember reading from the manuual yesterday that the oil should be changed every 30 hours. ;)

I need to read the manual again since I couldn't find which type of oil I should put.

Thanks everyone for the help!!!!!!! :D

Vlr: Just a further word of advice from Mownies excellent suggestions. I would ensure to keep an eye on your Oil level (consumption) and colour during the next few cuts . I would further suggest you reduce the time frame hrs for your next oil change since residual gas (solvent) will remain within your engine within (sludge deposits in the pan). If you don't experience any smoking or rapid discolouration (dirty colour) soon after the oil change then your fine . Some gradual but soon discolouration is fine since the small amount of residual fuel in the oil will be an engine cleaner . No biggy some Automobile Engine mechanics use to actually add some varsol to oil , then run the engine for 20 minutes then change oil and filter to reduce engine sludge with the oil galleries as a "Engine Internal Wash" . Basically what I'am saying just change your oil a little earlier this next time not 30 hrs running time later.

P.S. Nice Tractor and nice photos Bro !

Awesome! Will do! :)

And, the preceding is just why i can find nice lawn tractors, with bad engines, to buy for cheap! Yassuh!
the saying: "You can lead a horse to water, but ya can't make him drink", is so true!

Rusty: The Phrase I most likely Coin is "You can lead a Horse to Water , but sometimes must drown them to Drink!"

P.S. It's True a Actual Dealer had a Mechanic Friend of mine tell the Customer we will perform a Engine Clean
via the Varsol Addition. Asked my Friend if the Customer asked if the Dealer would then Honour the Warranty on the Engine lol !

Note: Just a reminder Vlr any smoking or unusual oil consumption long term (more than 1/2 hr duration) after Oil Change should Que. you to inspect further . You should be fine I'am always a little cautious with fuel carry over into Oil Sump .

I know precisely what rusty is talking about. It has nothing to do with "Varsol".
crusty rusty has a certain wit about him. :^)

Replacing for float needle for a couple of bucks wouldn't be a bad idea, should you forget to turn the fuel cock off. Are you bagging your grass as I didn't see a deflector on the mower deck?

Just got home. Are you saying guys that I smoking can happen?

bushleague, I'm mulching. My mower has a mulching kit installed.

Here is an update. I've finally completed the oil draining. I'm lucky to find an empty Costco milk jug. I had fun with some art assignment this evening. HEHEHE! :D

Anyways, similar to what I asked earlier, is there a chance that the engine will smoke?

Oh, the oil is black!

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Vlr: Yes the Oil is very Black ! As I indicated the solvent effect of the gasoline carryover has cleaned out sludge residue within your crankcase most likely. You have not run the engine for any prolonged period since the flooding problem , so any residual gas should be removed with the new oil , As suggested keep an eye on any smoking or excessive oil consumption after approx 1/2 of run time .
I would think all will be fine . Just keep an eye on things and change your oil a little earlier and ensure you have a inline gas shutoff valve installed . I believe you have probably already been informed of this last safety measure lol . Good Luck ..let us know how you fair :)

I like your oil drain funnel. It's giving me some ideas. I would spend a couple bucks and install a short nipple and cap on your drain port, like the snowblowers use.

Can you please show me an image of the short nipple and cap?

Thanks!

***"please show me an image of the short nipple and cap"***
Will comply.
The nipple and cap are available at any hardware store or home center.
Carry the pipe plug with you for a match-up of the thread size. I believe the threads are "3/8" NPT" but I am hesitant to state that size from memory. Possibly one of the other members can confirm or refute that size.

You will need to measure (with a ruler), the distance from the engine oil drain plug over to a point beyond the edge of the frame where you would like for the oil to drain into a funnel, or directly into a catch pan.
The nipples are available in various lengths.
Depending on the stock of your store, they might be found in different lengths "by 1" increments", but usually after 4" length, it jumps by 2" increments between length sizes.

You will need to buy the smallest tube or bottle of thread sealing compound you can find to seal the threads where the nipple will screw into the engine.
DO NOT buy thread sealant that is only for household plumbing work!!!!!!!
Be sure to get thread sealant that is rated for use with petroleum products.

Install the nipple with fingers at first (to assure it's not cross-threaded) and then tighten using Vise-grip pliers.

I suggest getting a hex headed pipe cap so you can manage it with a standard wrench or socket. You need to coat the threads of the nipple with thread sealant before capping the nipple.
Always "hold" the nipple from turning (using your Vise-grips) whenever you are tightening or loosening the pipe cap.

Teflon tape is an acceptable substitute for semi-liquid thread sealant, but it requires that the tape be "wound or wrapped" in the CORRECT direction on the treads or it might be less effective against leaks.

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Somebody was buffing that baby!

Nope! Photoshop to get rid of "identifying details".
:^)

vlrtu0s1ty you are doing GREAT. I do not know what you do or did for a living but I best you are/were the best! That funnel shows some real problem solving techniques. The only problem here is your lonnnng pen name. We gotta get you a shorter handle!

That is awesome mownie!!! :D

That's going to make draining of oil easier and cleaner! :D I'll buy it in a few. And yup, I will post pictures, hehehe. :P

Thanks again!

You can call me Neil, my real nick :D

popcornhill, I do programming as my main job. I love gardening. I also do carpentry. hehehe :D

I forgot to say that without the tremendous help from the folks here, I don't think I'll be able to remedy this issue.

***"call me Neil"***
or we could just use the root word and call you "virtue".
:^)

Virtue , Like the sound of that lol !

Programmer ..huh...would have thought Stealth Fighter R&D or least Kite Engineering 101 with the Design Factors Involved in that Plastic Bottle / Funnel Retro-fit ! :)

hehehe! :D

Anyways, my tractor is back in the saddle!!! :D Did get some minor smoking and strong gasoline smell. Drove it for few minutes and everything is gone. I had an oil spill on the floor though to where I was working. I left it in my garage and I will check it after an hour.

I'll take pictures again! HAHAHA!

Here are the final pics. I would like to thank everyone for helping me fix my tractor's problem. :)

Draining of oil will be easier now but I've got some very minor obsctacle, that black metal. It attaches the stirring wheel the the front wheel. I have to remove it before I can untighten the brass cap. It's easy. :)

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Does turning the wheel to the left or right move the rod out of the way?

vlr" Ifin you find the (Black) Tie-rod removal bother some you could substitute a True Close Nipple (shorter) for the longer Consumer 2-1/2" nipple you are currently using. Use Permatex on the block nipple threads as a sealant and Teflon on the Hex Cap end . The Teflon will allow removal of the cap without the piping nipple coming loose .

baymee,

I think the rod touches the brass cap slightly when I turn it to the left.

ewalk,

The one I put says 1 inch on the package. The length of the brass cap is 9/16".

There are also drain plugs that use a finger twist and pull out feature. They are much easier to use and might be ideal in a situation like yours. The end has a connection for a short tube. I like my own on the tractors.

In fact, there are many types of convenient drain systems.

"Drag link", not "tie rod", is hitting pipe cap.
How about looking on the opposite side of the engine to see if Briggs provided a sump drain there.
Typically, an engine may have more than one sump drain just because there is no way for a single drain to be accessible in all applications.
If there is an additional drain port on the opposite side of engine, that one may be free of any interference from other components. Picture if necessary please.

Can you please show me a link?

I'm not sure if you are asking me to point out the "Drag Link", or if you are asking for a link to a picture of the opposite side of your engine?????
If you wanted me to point out the drag link, see image below.

If you are asking for a picture of the opposite side of your engine........you will have to provide us with that picture, we don't have it.

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Vlr: Mownie is correct proper terminology for lawn tractor would be "DRAG LINK" Sorry us Former Snowmobile Racers called them tie-rods on our Independent Front Ends.

Note: Although baymee is correct as to numerous other drain extension adders , I think the easiest and strongest solution to your obstruction issue is to as advised just shorten the nipple length . As a former Steamfitter I would have used a common Pipe Cap with a close nipple to allow ease of oil change without the interference issue with either a 6" pipe wrench or vise grips , but that's hind site now . I would think that you probably prefer the Hex Cap for convenience reasons lol. The main thing is that you have the Oil contamination and fuel leak issues behind you !

Oh, I was asking for a picture of another oil drain solution he mentioned earlier. Sorry.

I wasn't aware that a post was made when I posted after baymee. Maybe you beat my post in few milliseconds. :D Then after I submitted it, I didn't look at my post anymore.

Vlr: Mownie was asking YOU to show pic of the LEFT side of Tractors Engine "DRAG LINK LOCATION" for possible drain plug location accessibility lol . I would think that both sides have the same Drag link orientation and doubt duplication of Oil Sump draining capability . Actually I like your funnel adaptation , but I guess the spillage become Old Quick huh ?

And I was suggesting YOU take another picture of the opposite side of the engine, so it can be determined if a second, alternate oil drain might be present.

Ewalk's suggestion of using a "close nipple" could be an answer to the rub, but you would need to be very specific in choosing the configuration of the close nipple.
The reason for that is because of the circumstances in how this applies to your engine.

Specifically, you have a threaded steel pipe screwing into an aluminum hole with female threads at one end, on the other end of the pipe, you have male threads of the pipe screwing into female threads of the brass cap.
In practice, when the engine heats up, the aluminum block expands (grows wider) around the pipe, which tends to loosen the grip of the engine to the pipe.
On the opposite end of the nipple, a brass cap threads onto the steel pipe. When the steel pipe heats up, it expands more than the brass cap, causing the brass cap to grip the pipe with a stronger hold.
The result of all this is that unless you hold the pipe nipple from turning when you attempt to loosen the cap..........the entire pipe nipple will unscrew from the engine.......and you are no better off than if you just left the OEM square headed plug in place as your oil drain facility.
Using a "close nipple" known as an "all thread" (which is the most common form) will not leave enough open space between the engine and the cap for you to latch onto the nipple with Vise-grips.
But.......there are close nipples available that feature a hex shaped wrench flat in the center of the nipple length, But you will not find these at every place that sells the common plumbing stuff.
Bottom line is: If you use any kind of nipple and cap, the nipple must be held from turning when loosening the cap.
And don'tr anybody think they can just increase the torque applied to the nipple threaded into the engine, if you over-tighten that baby you might crack the engine block casting! Try fixing that in your home garage!

Sorry for not answering earlier if there was an oil drain on the other side. There is none. However, the drag link on the left side is the same as the other side.

Are you saying that using steel nipple and brass cap isn't a good idea? I just followed what was suggested. Please let me know if I misunderstood your post about heat and expansion.

About the removal of the brass cap, I am aware about the pipe's turning.

Vlr: Don't panic Bro . My recommendation for quick solution is based on what you have just confirmed . Same Drag Link configuration and no redundant (additional) drain point on the Left Side . I would have been very surprised if there had been . Kind of like having to drain plugs in a Oil Pan on your car (not likely). Anyhow to get back on topic . All Screwed (Npt) Piping is Sch. 40 Gauge (wall thickness) therefore it will give off any conducted heat from the Crankcase (limited thermal growth and conduction) I advised to use Permatex Pipe Sealant which would allow sufficient tightness and sealing with either a small vice grip or pipe-wrench. Once the Permatex sets up it will act much like a thread locker . On the drain point end I suggested Teflon tape since it allows easier Pipe Cap removal because of its superior lubricity (less friction) which would faciltate removal of the cap (or Hex Plug) without the nipple backing out when ever draining is needed. Do however apply common sence when tightening , just a little over hand tight is adequate for the nipple and even less with the cap with the Teflon on that end . Cheers !

Note: I recall well within Colledge Hydraulic's 101 that the Professor Preached (seriously) the proper Thread Fit Class and that no Teflon Tape or Pipe Dope be used . Rather that a Properly Cut "A" Class Thread with slight addition of Hyd. Oil for lubicity to allow Thread Root to seat was all that was needed. The Anti-Tape or Pipe Thread Compound was do to numerous incidents of the sealant fouling the internal passages of Direction Valves & associated Equipment . Sorry for the Hydraulics 101 Lesson just had a Flash Back to my Trade School Days lol .

I do know that teflon tape cannot be used with any fuel-oil pumps, as it will ruin them.

I have used pipe nipples in engine drains with no problem. Cleaning the threads and using some Loc-Tite, not the Red, may help. While I have brass caps as shown, I am just as likely to use a plain old black OR galvanized pipe cap, just don't tighten this as tight as the pipe nipple to engine block and I don't use tape. Holding the pipe nipple with channel locks while loosening the cap may make you feel better but I never had a problem.

What I really like to do on Dixons that I work with mainly now days, is run a street el into the engine block, a nipple of appropriate length to get to a clear spot and a cap OR another 90 degree el out or down, down at an angle, where ever clearance is and a plug in that. Some times that necessitates a clamp to hold nipple depending on length.

Engine generally has to be unbolted and lifted enough to provide clearance while threading in street el OR short nipple with 90 degree el, again, depending on clearance.

Walt Conner

Thanks guys! All of you are amazing! :D

By the way, I posted another thread on the mower forum. It's about my edger. Maybe you guys can check it and recommend some things I should do.

I'm attaching the link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: My edger has a problem

I've used a small standard plumbing ball valve on my Wheelhorse for years as a drain. For peace of mind, I finger tighten a plug into the open end of the valve. I don't do this, but you could use a barbed threaded fitting with a hose to screw into the valve for changing oil.

"you could use a barbed threaded fitting with a hose to screw into the valve for changing oil."

Or just continue to use your neat funnel you made.

Walt Conner

Rusty I like your advice on the 90 Degree Street Elbow . Don't know if there would be sufficient End to Centre Dimension to clear the frame for draining any better than the Close Nipple and Pipe Cap , but it certainly would eliminate the clearance problem with the Drag-link . Actually Vlr could use a Strato-flex WOG. Rated (Braided) 4" Hose Assembly Threaded at both end and cap it off when not draining with or without Teflon or Permatex your call. A little more expensive but guarantee's a environmentally Green Solution (No Spillage) . Actually with the time and effort the Dude has taken with the Artistic Funnel I would hate to see him retire it lol.

It's possible you could put a 45º street on the end of that nipple, or even a coupler and use a plug.

Baymee: Yes a 45 Degree elbow in conjunction with the street Elb. would clear the impediment but a additional close nipple would be required. However it may well work none the less . Numerous creative ways to achieve the drainage lol .

"Rusty I like your advice on the 90 Degree Street Elbow"

I am not Rusty, I am the other crusty old codger.

Walt Conner

Sorry Walt my apology Freudian slip , guess I'am the 3rd Old dyslexic Codger ! lol :).

No, what I mean is that you use a short nipple and a 45º street or coupler. No 90 used at all.

That funnel is the great,from what I see you are a pretty good mechanic, with a little help hats off to a good job and of course all the great advice on this thread.....

Thanks for all the tips guys!!! :D

By the way, I received my deck wheels today. I'll install it later even if it's already past 11pm. HAHAHA! :D

By the way, there is a lawn about 2 miles from my house, it is so perfectly flat. The height is so very even. It's real because I saw a small dead patch the other day. The average height of the grass was(based from my where I was) around 2"-2.5". I'm pretty sure that his neighbors are jealous with his lawn because I am, hahaha. :D

Oh, I also noticed as if it is not growing. It's always perfect. I've seen it more than 50 times this year since I always use that street to get to the main road.