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Briggs 24HP VTwin 2008 model,264 hours -Runs Rough after warm up

BillBarbour
9 years ago

Briggs 24 HP VTwin not run for about 3-4 years. Would not start unless when I primed the cylinders it would start and run off the primed fuel smoothly. Replaced old gas and old oil and their filters. Replaced spark plugs. Removed and broke down carb, cleaned and installed new carb-kit. At first, started and ran for 2 -3 minutes smoothly, then started running rough for about 3 minutes then quit. Will start and barely runs after that. Checked spark plugs and they are black. Has new fuel and filter, new oil and filter, new carb kit, plugs and new air filter. Do I have a choke problem? or what?

Comments (7)

  • bill_kapaun
    9 years ago

    Did you clean the old crud out of the tank and flush the lines.
    Might have also clogged your new fuel filter.

  • mownie
    9 years ago

    It would also be wise to check the vent hole in the fuel tank filler cap.
    Those are prone to small insect activity and a number of bugs enjoy using the ready made cavity for their business.

  • BillBarbour
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Bill_Kapaun and Mownie - Thanks for the tips guys. I'll check these things and get back.

  • BillBarbour
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    The gas cap hole is clear. I flushed the gas out of the tank(again) until the gas was clear. Still runs rough and smokes. But it loves the carb cleaner I squirt into the carb! I removed the gas hose going into the carb bowl and squirted the carb bowl full of carb cleaner and it runs as smooth and fast as a new engine! It just doesn't like the gas I bought at the local filling station! Any suggestions?

  • rcbe
    9 years ago

    yeah - you still have a dirty carb. Get a rebuild kit for that particular carb. With a camera, take plenty of before/during/after pix so you can get everything hooked back up right. Remove and take apart carb fully, soaking parts overnite in liquid carb cleaner.
    With a magnifier, a stiff brass wire and compressed air, probe and clean every passage/orifice in each carb component - blow clean/dry and set aside.
    Re-asm carb using kit components as instructed. Do NOT re-use original gaskets. DO replace float valve/needle as supplied.
    Remount carb and test engine, making sure no intake vacuum leaks are present. Good luck.

  • porkely
    8 years ago

    I have a craftsman 20hp garden tractor that stop moving when I was mowing, first thought I broke the drive belt but the belt was ok, tractor was in a free wheel mode, after checking all the obvious things such as the tranny disconnected lever and the plunger off of the lever and that the drive belt was turning the tranny pulley. When I engaged the forward/reverse it sounds like the pump is running but the tractor doesn't move, the brake plate is free, I removed the tranny/pump from the tractor and drained all the oil from both and flushed them with universal tractor, the hoses from the filter and the other hoses look like they circulate as one unit . Question is this possible and if so what type of oil do I use. I know some backhoes with hydro static shuttle the oil reservoir is the same for the tranny/hydraulics oil. I've seen where the tranny on my tractor is 20-50 gear oil for the trans axle and a good hydraulic oil for the. Pictures attached with model numbers and the filter/hoses. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

  • rexlex
    8 years ago

    from hydrogear for your trannie:

    "Typically, an engine oil with a minimum rating of 55 SUS at
    210°F (98.9°C) and an API classification of SJ/CD is
    recommended. A 10W-40 engine oil has been selected for
    use by the factory and is recommended for normal operating
    temperatures. Another alternative that will provide excellent
    all climate performance and extended time between oil
    changes is a 15W-50 synthetic engine oil"

    for more info. d/l service manual for 222-3010L here: http://www.hydro-gear.com/Main/service/service-repair-manuals

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