I've replaced a number of Deere axels over the years. It seems that you have thought that through well. Yours you should be able to replace the ball joints on the drag link unless it is bent. From the rest of your repairs , sounds like that may be the case- though these links are tough. Beware though that you will need to know whether the link itself is metric or SAE threading if you replace only the joints.

Thanks, tomplum.

Yeah, I think the drag link could be bent, but as it comes with a bend I doubt I will know until I try to connect it to the new axle. If I need a new one I will get it from the dealer.

One way you can tell if the DRAG LINK is bent is if your tires turn really far to one direction but not as far in the opposite direction.
Shortening a drag link by bending will have that effect on the steering.

I do have that problem. But the tie rod is badly bent also, The tie rod is bowed out toward the back of the tractor, which splayed the front tires outward. Also the left axle spindle (As seen from the seat) is bent backward at the bottom toward the foot rest. I would not have thought that was possible, but it is, and explains the need for a new axle. Right now the wheels will turn too far to the left. but not all the way to the right. I do not know how much of that is due to the tie rod and bent axle. It is my hope if the drag link is bent that I may be able to straighten it a bit? The steering gear seems to be OK, but right now nothing is certain. I just hope a new front axle, tie rod, and maybe a new drag link will fix it. It took a big hit, but it will still mow.

JTB, I suspected you had experienced a traumatic encounter with a substantial something. I also figured you had a pretty fair grip on what the needed repairs would amount to.
I was just tossing in a little extra detail that might help someone determine whether a drag link had been tweaked, without having to use a "known good" drag link to compare it with.
Another thing that CAN BE DONE in situations where a drag link is bent is to measure the "pin to pin" span of the drag link on a "known to be good" tractor, and then straighten the bent drag link until its pin to pin span is the same value.
Pin to pin is measured from the center of the ball pins on the drag link.
The more tedious method of determining the "correct length" of the drag link is to measure the "throw" of each tire as you turn the steering lock to lock (left/right maximum) and measure from a matching point on the tire and the frame of the tractor. The tedious portion of this is that you may have to remove the drag link from the tractor each time you have to straighten a bit, and then re-install it to check your progress.

That's "good, helpful" advice. Well, I don't have another good tractor like it, but I'm sure, when I get there far, I can find a member (if not here) on a JD forum I belong to who does, and who can get that info for me.

I don't really mind telling what happened, it just takes a while to type. It involves accidentally mowing straight down a bank, and a severe impact at the bottom (especially on one wheel). It taught me sometimes things can happen so fast you don't have time to react; you just become an unwilling passenger. I'm thankful I wasn't hurt. I can fix the tractor.

Yes, good that only your pride.........and a few replaceable parts were damaged:^)