Have you checked the John Deere Parts Catalog
http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt

Enter your model number with only alpha and number characters.

In the drawing of the Fuel and Air Muffler, it looks like the heat shield is held together with rivets and screws.

The muffler is held to the motor by two bolts.

The problem is not the heat shield (got that off OK), nor the bolts that hold the muffler pipe to the head (got those off also). Had the muffler where it was attached to nothing. But the muffler has a flange on each end that attach it to the frame rail and those flanges prevent you from lowering the muffler any at all. There is barely enough room between the frame and the head where the muffler pipe is attached to get your hand in with a small wrench to take off the nuts. When you try to slide the muffler away from the head the threaded stud binds on the muffler flange. I have seen the parts drawing and it shows you none of this.

I've seen before that even the JD manuals will say the engine MAY have to come up to remove the muffler. Apparently you cant finagle the muffler ahead enough to allow you to get the center retainer out of the way. There has to be a little give between the frame and drive pulley to rock the engine up slightly? have you tried a well placed flat pry bar? I always hated Deere's logic with that weld in anti rotation bracket btw.

In manufacturing it is common to prepare a complex sub-assembly, & when it is complete, install the sub-assembly in the final product as a unit. This is how automotive instrument panels are generally done, but there are other examples. When maintenance is required, you might have to unbolt and remove an entire sub-assembly to gain access to the defective part. This is becoming more common, and it is not just done in the USA. I suppose that it makes economic sense to the manufacturer. It drives up the cost of repair, and that tends to stimulate sales of new units.

oh,yeah.. that works for a while with the shyster mfgrs until their customers get a bit streetwise and start purchasing the competition's offerings.
Only way to get away with such risks is to design/produce reliable products offsetting such bummer repair issues... but all too many of 'em "ain't there yet" - even the green shiny machines, IMHO.

Streamlining assembly and production procedures is high up on the production cost per unit list while there are rarely considerations for easier repair procedures in the field.

That's why professional flat rate techs develop procedures and design special tools to beat the clock and the engineers who were never forced to repair what they design.

The ultra cost effective designs and production procedures of today do make things harder for DIYers who don't have the larger toolbox and lack the specific experience that the pros have.

JAL - yer comments are true.
There's one other little factor (that prolly will ruffle some feathers about here) personally observed/experienced during my workin career - the stoopid union shop rules in a number of US companies that FORBADE an engineer, designer or such from even TOUCHING a prototype... no wonder they ended up living in their ivory tower with minimal feedback... And at least the Japanese had the common sense to staff a separate design group and a production engineering group to avoid most of that gawdforsaken pitfall.
Could'ya jest see the wright bro's designing their aircraft under such rules? sheesh.

Can't comment on Union or non Union shop rules but I worked for a major Japanese motorcycle manufacturer decades ago and can tell you that Japanese common sense was not as widespread as it could have or should have been or that you were so impressed that it was.

There was a time that many things of Japanese manufacture were designed in Japan with little to no feedback welcome from the markets they sold into and we had to tolerate the Japanese design idiosyncrasies here in the US like it or not even when we were the American subsidiary of a Japanese corporation and were responsible for marketing the product..

This post was edited by justalurker on Thu, Aug 22, 13 at 16:43

I worked for a Japanese chemical plant that the Japanese engineered and re engineered to meet the budgeted amount. When complete the plant required about half of the original cost to make the thing work as designed.

So don't categorizes bad engineering by nationality

I noted specifics and a specific period of time decades ago and only discussing direct experience with Japanese engineering philosophy at the time.

During that time decades ago I was also involved in the industry with British and Italian, and German design philosophies and found all had weak points (from my myopic American point of view) but the Japanese engineering philosophy at that time was unique in almost total disregard for the intelligence of the market they were selling in to and reluctance to accept that anyone in that market could provide feedback regarding design worthy of consideration... even from their American subsidiary.

And I never said BAD engineering. Engineering philosophy and BAD engineering are two entirely different things.

I would never categorize bad engineering by nationality but rather would lump all the BAD engineers everywhere together and criticize them all at once.

JM(mechanic's)O... cause we're the ones who have to fix the problems and overcome the engineer's compromises... whether intended or administrated. Now I'll just duck!

This post was edited by justalurker on Thu, Aug 22, 13 at 20:41

Knuttle - didja ever watch a beancounter brainstorm in a group design concept session? It'll give you a quick idea why that plant came in way over budget, I'll bet...
JAL - yer points are well taken. Have also had a taste of the "lack of design sensitivity from foreign groups". Hopefully, the current generations, home and abroad, are the wiser.

Loaded in my truck and took it to John Deere yesterday. I don't really feel bad about doing that as I really love that little tractor. It's a 1999 model, and I bought it about two years old with about 50 hours on it. The previous owner had moved to this area and bought a condo. The little nubs on the tires were still there. The only trouble I've had with it was a bad seat switch, and the dealer gave me one.

It really took a whack, and I'm not sure I can see all that might be messed up, and I want it repaired back to right.

Thanks for trying to help. Clay

Nothing wrong with giving the dealer a taste cause you want them to still be there the next time you need them.

Everyone needs to make a living...