Yes.

What happened to the last one?
Did you get it charged & load tested before you deemed it to be bad?

Some of these tractors only have a 3 AMP charging system.

Post the Sears 917.xxxxxx number so we can see WHICH tractor you have for sure.

Model 917.273461

I did not load test it nor charge it. I do not have a method to do either. It appears to have a 16 amp charging system. The ammeter usually displays zero (center). When it is off, the meter goes left.

Thank for you help!

Oh, I have a multimeter that does diode tests and 20A.

The fact you said the ammeter shows a discharge with the KEY OFF (if I understand you correctly), indicates a parasitic drain.
With the key OFF, EVERYTHING should be disconnected.
It would infer that the key OFF isn't disconnecting things and you have a bad KEY SWITCH.
You should hear the carb solenoid click with the key switched ON/OFF/ON......
IF you don't, measure for voltage at the carb solenoid with the key OFF. It should be 0.

You can test the charging system.
What I'd do, is see what DC Voltage you have across the battery with engine OFF and again at high speed.
It should be about 12.6 with the Key OFF. (probably a bit less if the battery is discharged)
It should go up to the high 13's or so with the engine running at high speed.

You can test the stator output to see if it's good.
Disconnect the plug to the Voltage Regulator.
Set Voltmeter to AC Volts and a range >50V.
Output must be a MINIMUM of 28 VAC at high engine speed.

Guys, thanks for your help. I fix medical equipment for a living, and I can troubleshoot. But engines are not my game, so all the info you guys are providing makes sense and will follow up later tonight.

I need to get a new battery regardless, because I cannot charge the old one. After I replace the battery, I will do the following.

1. Measure the alternator at the regulator for 30 VAC or so.

2. Reconnect the Alternator. Disconnect the ammeter, and connect my multimeter in series with the ammeter to measure the current.

3. Will test the ignition switch, though am not sure this is the problem. Should I spray Deoxit on it?

One other symptom I am having is what appears to be an intermittent interlock switch engaging. With the manual PTO mower blades engaged while mowing, I suddenly get what appears to be killswitched, where interlock is activated. I have 3 interlocks. Seat, PTO, and brake. This is intermittent, but narrowed it down to the PTO engagement (manual), because when I go to engage, it appears to kill the engine. When after a few tries, it seems to work. I only did a visual on the switches. Not sure if this is related.

The seat switch over rides the attachment switch.
Make sure the seat switch connector is plugged in tight.

I have a hunch, you might be shifting your weight slightly when you engage the PTO and a marginally adjusted seat switch is activating.

Ok guys. Looks like I have an electrical issue. I am only measuring about 1.5 VAC at the alternator plug, where it conencts into the regulator. I then reconnected, and pulled the ammeter and went thru the multimeter, and was measuring about .3 amps. FWIW, when I look at the ammeter when it is back in the circuit, it is dead center on zero. So, I am guessing the alternator needs replacing.

Is there any way to test the regulator to see if it is also bad?

You do have the VR disconnected, don't you?
IF not, it has to be disconnected to isolate the stator for testing.

Can't really test the VR that I know of.
And you hate to try a bad one on a new stator and possibly burn up a stator.

Are you getting the .3 AMPs with with the key OFF?
In the OFF position, it "should" disconnect EVERYTHING that would draw current.
IF it is, the key switch isn't disconnecting B from A1.
It seems like the carb fuel solenoid would probably draw about .3A???

You do have the schematic in the OM don't you? IF not, it's at the link I posted.

Here is a link that might be useful: OM

The VR was disconnected from the stator when I measured the voltage. I put my multimeter in "20 amps" mode and put it in the place of the ammeter, and had a .3 amps reading with the engine running.

It appears to be a bad stator/alternator, which means removing the flywheel. This may be a problem because I do not have a flywheel holder or removal tool.

I ordered a stator, regulator, and flywheel removal tool. I am still trying to figure out how I can remove the nut without the flywheel turning. Maybe an impact wrench?

Impact wrench seems to work best if you have one.

Just be careful when tightening the flywheel nut! You can break off the top end of the crank-shaft, using the air operated torque wrench. I have seen it done!! Best to hand tighten it if you aren't familiar with the job at hand. Rusty Jones

I was only using the impact wrench for removal. Briggs tech told me 150 ft lb to tight with torque wrench.

Update. I got the flywheel off and found one of the 2 alternator feed wires with a clean slice right thru. Looked like a precision surgical slice. The other wire had exposed copper, so the insulation was rubber off. Don't look like it was installed all that well. Will finish repair tomorrow.

Keep us updated!

Quick question on tightening nut. Briggs said to use 150 ft lb. I do not have a torque wrench that goes that high. My impact wrench is selectable, but its lowest setting is 170 ft lb. Should I just hand tighten it?

Sorry to inform you of the important details, but...........
values for torque ratings tacked onto impact wrenches (air, electric, or otherwise) are really just very approximate numbers.
Unless you have an impact wrench fitted with a highly accurate and adjustable delivery clutch, the applied torque could be much more, or much less than the indicated setting on your impact wrench.
Bite the bullet on this and purchase a suitable torque wrench.
You don't need a high tech pro model torque wrench for what you are doing.
An inexpensive old school "beam and pointer" type will work just fine.
If you need justification to do this just figure what this job would have cost if you had farmed it out.

OK. Looks like it works like a charm. I was able to borrow a torque wrench. I used a pipe wrench on the pulley shaft so so the flywheel would not turn.

The ammeter jumps at the beginning to like 15, and then settles under 5. Just wondering if this is typical.

Thanks for everyone's help!

A higher rate of charge initially, is typical.
The lower the battery is, the higher the charge rate.
Voltage differential.

I guess a semi decent analogy would be-
Hook up an empty garden hose to a faucet with the nozzle shut off.
Turn on the water.
It initially flows fast and than rapidly tapers off as pressure builds.
Voltage is just electrical "pressure".

Glad it worked out!

Thanks so much! I still have that intermittent interlock problem. I may just replace all 3 switched. It definitely has to be that, because the engine runs great, then all of a sudden, seems like the plug is pulled. I do not think it is the brake or PTO interlock. I will start another thread on that if I continue to have the problem.

Thanks again!