Had a rear tire off lately ? If so, check axles to see that axle shaft to rim keys are still in place.

Also check to verify that your hydrostatic bypass rod is fully engaged... (see your manual for details).

Yes, the bypass rod is engaged and the rim keys are in place.

Thanks.

were you doing anything when this happened, or was it working fine, you parked it and then next time you try use it it failed?

I was cutting grass and tried to back up. It would not go. Then I tried to go forward and it still would not go. This happened last week after I had pulled out the bypass rod and pushed the tractor. At that time I assumed that I had not re-engaged it properly so I pulled it out at pushed it in again and it was ok. That did not work this time.

was the engine running at the time? you are supposed to shut off the engine before using the bypass.

have you physically got under the tractor and isnpected it to make sure the bypass rod did not slip out of it's connection point?

From your post: I was cutting grass and tried to back up. It would not go. Then I tried to go forward and it still would not go. This happened last week after I had pulled out the bypass rod and pushed the tractor.

Has the tractor moved at all since you moved the bypass rod? if not you know when it happened and what its related to. Just got to find what didn't go back in place properly with the bypass rod.

Yes, the engine was off the first time.

The second time I did not move the bypass rod until the tractor already stopped. The engine was off and I moved the rod out and back in (yes it is connected and it is moving the actuator that is on the transmission.) The tractor has not moved since then.

There is a procedure posted on several sites on how to bleed the air from the transmission - I did that several times but is has no effect.

When it is jacked up the wheels spin but I can stop them with my hand.

sounds like the actuator is not engaging all teh way. maybe it has come loose on teh shaft that goes in teh transmission itself.

Good thought but the shaft is moving too.

might try to go to Tuff Torq web site or if anybody has that site if they show a exploded view and see what the lever connects to inside the hrdro. if may of came loose internally???? do you feel any resistances when pulling it in and out???

I pulled the cover off. The shaft that attaches to the bypass rod, goes into a part that the tuff torq site calls
"center case K". Looks like the pump and some other parts will come out if I remove center case K. What do I have to lose right? It is already toast anyway...

are you ABSOLUTELY sure the drive belt was good and under proper tension? it sounds more like it was slipping.

hydros do get weak with age, but that is real sudden for that type issue.

Yes, the drive belt is tight.

Should I be able to rotate the wheels without the pulley moving while the bypass is in the drive position?

the pulley should not move at all i would think.

what about your pedal linkage, did it have any slack where it attaches to the tranny? that is what determines how fast you go, and therefore how much force is applied to the tires. if it is only partially engaging you could get them same exact symptoms as well.

I finally gave up and bought a new transaxle. It works great now so I know it must have been the trans and not a belt of linkage or something.

The new one is faster and quieter than the old one was even when it was new. I am wondering if I got a lemon the first time...

Did you buy the new K46 from a dealer? How much did it cost?

I bought it from the Tuff Torq website - $550