I too have a B&S v-twin (26 hp) in a Craftsman garden tractor that has started burning oil. It is a 2004 with approximately 80 hours. The engine has had oil and filter changed three times since new. I use 30w as specified in the manual. I am dumbfounded that this new of an engine can be burning as much oil as it is. It is not a little blow-by nuisance; it is burning a quart in less than an hour, and looks like I'm fogging for mosquitoes even under a slight load. This was NOT gradual; it began after a shutdown to add fuel.

When I was an instructor for a major equipment manufacturer, we used to tell mechanics that small engines (Briggs, Kohler, Onan, etc.) running at 50% load was the equivalent of an automobile cruising at 40mph. Using this analogy, my v-twin is Briggs has 3200 miles on it. Would anyone in their right mind accept this kind of poor life expectantcy from an auto manufacturer?

I suspect Briggs is encountering a rash of inferior engines due to something like poor quality oil rings, head gaskets, or similar problems. I agree with the previous poster (dontbuybriggs) in that a group needs to be formed to contact this manufacturer for remedy.

I have a Craftsman LT1000 (16hp engine). The thing started spewing white smoke from the exhaust. When I looked at the exhaust I also saw that it was "spraying" black oil. The thing sees moderate use and I've changed the oil once a season. I just want to know what I can expect the repair tech to tell me is wrong with the thing before I get swindled. Any ideas?

B&S engines other then the Vanguard = cheap disposable junk. They're mostly ancient designs, or ancient designs that have been updated to give modern features at the lowest possible cost.

The remedy for this is for people to stop buying them, and stop buying equipment that uses them. They'll either step up to the plate and build more modern and better products, or die.

I have seen this problem with BS and Honda engines. A little too much oil in the crankcase of the V-twins does not let oil run back into the crankcase from the overhead valve heads if there is too much oil and the engine is not always perfectly level. Drop the oil level down a 1/4 inch on the dipstick and see what happens. This has also cured many that are fowling spark plugs.

I also have a B&S 26hp and it's smoking alot. I think it's a 2004.

We bought a new lawn tractor last year from Sears and worked fine. This year the B&S 24HP started leaking oil. Called Sears service and they replaced the oil pump. Ran for 2 months mowing and the engine seized. Repairman says it ran out of oil. Sears warranty said it was owners negligence and not covered by warranty. Granted, I did not check the oil level every time I mowed but I was not aware that this engine burned oil so fast. We are now looking for a new engine for our new mower. After reading all of your postings, I wondering how negligent I am and it I want to get another B&S engine. Is there any other options? Any advice would be welcomed. Ken

I have the 26 HP B&S Craftsman Garden Tractor that burns a qt of oil every hour also! This is its' 3rd or 4th season and it's been doing this for 2 seasons now. What can we do since I'm sure it's out of warranty??

- Joe

I've came across numerous vangard engines with high oil consumption. It was caused by one of two problems. (1) The reed valve in the breather was STUCK CLOSED. Test it by removing the assembly and covering it with a rag. Then run the engine for about 5 minutes to see if the oil smoke stops. It usually does. If that solves the problem, just go to your local dealer and buy a new crankcase reed valve. Under $10.00 for the kit, and 1 minute to install. Labor at the dealer is 15 minutes if they do it plus parts. The reed valve opens and closes with the pistons to allow excessive crankcase vapors to go into the carb on the down stroke of the pistons. With a bad reed valve stuck in the closed position, excessive crankcase pressure forces the oil vapor past the rings and into the combustion chamber where it is burned and smoke is the result. (2) This is a little harder to check. There is a screw under the carb going into the top of the crankcase. It hold the baffle plate on and I have found several times where the screw had sheared off. Now the plate is no longer held tightly in place and oil slung around inside the case is allowed to pass around the edges of the baffle plate. You can tell because the screw should be secure. If it is loose...tighten it. If it's missing...it has sheared off and it's time for an engine teardown.

I can't find anyone at any repair shop who has any idea what a crankcase reed valve is! Where exactly is it. The only thing I find on the engine is a module that has the fuel line coming into it from the tank and one leaving to the engine and had a small hose going straight into the valve cover. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Nobody can help huh?

On the flat head single cylinder Briggs Engines, there is a rectangular plate on the side of the block, behind the carb., where the rubber tube comes out of it into the side of the carb. It is held on by 2 small hex-head screws, and has a gasket under it. If you remove that part and shake it up near yer ear, you should hear the fibre disc inside of it rattle. If yer engine uses a lot of oil, it may have the thing stuffed up and not doing its job of crank-case breather. They can be taken apart, carefully, but be aware, those little tabs may break off, necessitating a new one. You can also blow and suck thru the hose to see if it works. Oil tastes lousy, but you might have to do it that way.

I have a 2005 24 hp els briggs that threw a rod. It is in a Husqvarna riding mower. Does anyone know of an alternative engine other than Briggs, that it can be replaced with?

Not being familiar with this problem - Im having some trouble with the blown head gasket theory.

If the head gasket were blown - oil wouldn't likely be seeping into the motor. but exhaust gases would be seeping into the crank case. (is the oil black?)

It almost seems like the pressurized oil is being pushed into the cylinder from elsewhere. past the rings?

or could it be leaking from around the crankshaft - but that would not explain the smoking.

If the rings on the piston are stuck, that would certainly explain a lot - that wouldn't be too bad.. and I doubt the cylinder would be ruined since so much oil were passing through it ... Perhaps it is the rings ?

question - is one of the spark plugs darker than the other ? or are they both equal in color - looking good or bad ?

good luck.

Thanks

The 18hp vanguard engine on my Briggs generator smokes like a sob when I start it. Its definitely oil as its blue. It does sit for a month or two between starts. Once its running its fine. The intek on my chipper and the kohler on my tractor don't smoke at all even after sitting for a couple of months.

Update..

Well...that POS Briggs motor finally went...to the tune of $1375 to replace. They said I broke a rod and then some in the right cylinder. Since the tractor was only 4 years old and a new one would have been closer to $3300, I opted for the new motor. Rebuilding the old one wasn't an option as it would have cost more in labor in the end. Thanks all for the help.
When I get it back, I'll then see if I can get any satisfaction out of Briggs. There's no way a well cared for engine should blow up after just 4 seasons of simple home use. Wish me luck!

- Joe

All,

Wow, I can't believe this thread is still going, but here is my update. For the past 15 months I have been deployed and my poor wife has been stuck with my smoking POS. The engine still runs pretty strong and is still using about the same amount of oil. I didn't get a chance to repair the beast before I deployed. I had deducted that it must be the oil rings, because I got good compresion before I left. But now after reading a lot of your posts, I might take a look at the reed valves when I return in a week. I might try the Marvel trick too. Otherwise, I plan on replacing the rings this winter. I like many of you cannot believe B&S is producing poor products like this and selling them with no recal or assistance. Thanks for all the info...and maybe if this thread is still going, I will let you know what I find out.
Rob

Well I found my problem after only 2 plus years. I tour the engine completely down and what I found really surprised me. The piston on #2 cylinder was completely worn on the top half of one side. The metal shaving I found in the crankcase were from the engine itself. It looks like when they pressed the cylindar liners into the aluminum block they laped the walls with the press. Well large chunks of the lapping are coming off, heck I peal a large chunk off with my fingers. I am figuring that a pice of the aluminum got stuck between the piston and the cylindar wall pushing the piston to one side causing the rings to become unseated and thus, use alot of oil and smoke. I have emailed B&S and Sears about this but have not heard anything back. My plan is to rebuild for a tune of $300 in parts. (camshaft, oversized piston and rings and a gasket kit and maybe new connecting rods). As I expected, poor workmanship at B&S....you would think they would clean up the crankcase a little more before assembleing it. I will let you know how it turns out.

Rob

Rob-
Google-
"Briggs is giving me a new engine on 4 year old GT 500"
"My '04 5000 just recieved a new engine"
"B&S is giving me a new engine for my 2004 GT5000"

Include the ""
Maybe you too can get a new engine.

I also have a 2005 Husqvarna 24/48 mower with a B&S motor and the motor is FUBAR. It started using oil at about 80 hours and got worse until 120 hours and something in the motor went South. I went to Northern Tools and spoke to the service rep and he said he has replaced so many of these motors he is sick of them. He said the problem was the air filter letting in dirty air and the oil sump was designed with baffles and if you had hills to climb the oil would starve cylinder number 1 and typically the rod would break. He said B&S and all motor companies did not consider problems in design unless the motor blew within 20 hours. Mine is out of warranty also so a new motor will be installed by ME. There hase been 4 design changes according to the rep and the new motors are working fine. My motor is a 446677 model 24 hp with the plastic pop off air filter cover. The new design has 4 hold down screws. If you have one of these type motors still under warranty and it is burning oil get it to a B&S service center and demand a new designed motor because it wont last for long.

Good info vulcan93. I saw 2 of those blown last year. One other that I shuddered when checking the oil when starting to service it, but it pulled through. The owners got the lecture on watching oil level! The ELS decal must mean that you never have to do maintenance, right?

According to Sears all these motors are blowing up because of the owners. Mine went south after less than 2 years of use inspite of 3 oil and filter changes by me & 2 by Sears. Lucky for Sears they covered it under warranty or else I would have put a sign in front of it and lit a bonfire under the thing in the front yard for all the world to see.

Problems?.........Just maybe it's in the OIL!!

I have been reading extensively on how API ( American Petroleum Institute) as a response from pressures from equipment/auto etc manufacturers have reduced the amount of additives Zinc and Phosphorous into the oil production admixture designs. Historically high Zn + PHOS concentrations have been used in off the shelf oil crankcase products so as to protect high impact and tight clearance areas of the engine. ie: cam lopes, rings, journals, bearings etc. However, in the reformulation of crankcase oils to address the issues relating to EGG and CAT converter damage to new production systems, starting around 2000 and then again in 2004 with a further concentration reduction, it has resulted in a sweeping REDUCTION of the amounts of these Zn+PHOS compounds in the oil itself. Oils with the API designations of CS-4. Zn+PHOS compounds are collectively referred to as ZDDP (Zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate) or ZDP and is a family of zinc salts of the thio oganophosphates family. Zn+PHOS is measured in ppm/wt. Old formulations had average of 1400 ppm/Zn & 1300 ppm/PHOS now the off the shelf API for gas engines have around 800ppm. A significant drop and has been determines to be the culprit in a number of engine failure/premature overwear issues.

So.....what does all this mean? Well the result is metal destruction especially in older design flat tappet engines at high impact areas and in engines where high heat concentration points and high torque such as in air cooled engines play a significant role within the engine performance even with overhead roller cam setups. Zinc/PHOS acts to cushion these impact areas and the higher the concentrations in the oil the better. (More the cushion/better the pushin so to speak. ) Cam shaft companies have had more failures in the last 4-years than in the last 40-years. Remedies: 1) Use a single wt. grade API gas oil but add either A) A CAM-Shaft Break-in oil additive that replaces the zn+PHOS when changing oil. ie: COMP CAMS No. 159 or CRANE CAMS No.
99003-1. B) Use diesel crank case oil such as Chevron Delo 400 or Shell Rotella (these come as multiwt oils and not single however.) or a single wt racing oil as from BRAD PENNS PG-1 HIGH PERFORMANCE BLEND. I know air cooled Porsche owners are using the nonsynthetic blend of Brad Penn PG-1. just for these reasons discussed. Do a search and learn about it. - Antares

"Cam shaft companies have had more failures in the last 4-years than in the last 40-years. "

I am only aware of B&S having a problem and this was due to bad metallurgy with B&S replacing these free for up to 3 years of age while warranty is for 2 years.

Walt Conner

Took in a Kohler update class a couple of weeks ago and the instructor was adamant about the us of oil with API rating SM, particularly in Kohlers due to the reduction of zinc. There goes the $2.00/qt Super Tech from Wally. You can read the oil makeup on any oil mfgrs website.

I have the 25 HP ELS engine the questionable air filter. I retrofitted it to accept the new "4 screw type" air filter cover. It requires a new blower housing cover, the new air filter cover, and new intake elbow. Fit like a glove. I have pictures if anyone wants to looks.

I have a 22 HP briggs V-twin in a Troy-Bilt lawn tractor. It's about a 2002 model year. I have ran the hell out of this engine and have used 10W-30 synthetic blend from day one. This engine gives a light puff at cold start-up (has from day one) but I never have to top off the oil between changes like is being described. I only change oil once a season and the oil is almost the same color as when it was put in at the beginning of the season. Finally, my engine has NO leaks anywhere on it. Call it luck if you like, but, I have had briggs engines all my life with very little problems.

"I only change oil once a season and the oil is almost the same color as when it was put in at the beginning of the season."
So, you are putting the tractor away for the winter with the same oil that it ran all summer? It is a small detail, but, it is better to drain the "tired, contaminated" oil out and refill with fresh, clean oil BEFORE putting the engine into storage. After putting the new oil in, run the engine a few minutes to coat all the internals with new oil. The new oil clings and coats better than old oil. While this "small detail" might seem insignificant to some folks, it IS the preferred procedure recommended in nearly all documents I have ever read in regard to preparations prior to storage. I gather you can appreciate "small details" since you have chosen to use a synthetic blend of lube oil for the engine. In some things, "timing is important".

Mownie, You are exactly right and that is what I do at the "end" of the season.....change the oil. That is the oil that I use the entire next season. At the end of this season, I am going to Amsoil Synthetic (I am not a dealer). I think the results will be positive since it has worked great in our other 4 vehicles, VW Jetta, Honda ST1000 motorcycle, Porsche 928, Chevy S-10. I think what a lot of people forget is the fact of how hard these small engines work. It makes sense to me to use a superior oil of some type to protect it. The higher cost of good oil far outweighs the tremendous cost of replacing an engine.

sanderso71, you are good to go. It just appeared you were stating that you began your new "season" with an oil change. You are precisely right about the "cost" of good oil. I have always ascribed to the adage: "Oil and grease are the cheapest things you can put into/onto machinery.....no matter how high their price."

My 62 Briggs 9hp cast iron still runs like a top with a splash lube on my Montgomery Ward/Simplicity and it will out pull my gt-235.
{{gwi:347406}}

Everybody wants the big HP numbers and for what? You end up with a cheap crappy 20 something horse motor and a hydro thats junk. Well we asked for it and we got it.27HP on a lawn mower is just plain stupid. We would all be better off with a really good trans and well built smaller motor that would last for years.

I have a Snapper zero turn radius with a 24 hp Briggs and Straton on it also. I have always kept up the maintenance on it according to B&S owner manual. I have been having some of the same issues as some of the rest of you. My wife started to mow and went about one a hundred feet and it stopped dead and wouldn't start. I took it to the Western Auto store were I purchased it and they checked it out and said it has a broken rod. Western Auto and the B&S rep have already started to point the finger at us saying owner neglect. The first thing I heard was that the air filter was dirty. I am suppose to go meet with the B&S rep and argue this out. The warranty is one month from expiring. I would like to have some really good information to hit him in between the eyes with. I don't feel I should have to pay for this, since there seems to be an ongoing problem with this engine. Does anyone have anything solid I can go in with that will help me win this argument. I think it is about time someone set B&S straight. I am willing to argue the case if someone can give me something to help me prove that this is their problem. I will take any advice, since I know next to nothing about about mechanical things.

Anyone have an average hours of use for when any of the issues show up, like the connecting rod failure?

I have a Husqvarna mower with the Briggs 24hp engine
Model 445677-0476-E1.The smoking and oil usage(1 qt every
2 hours)occured at 100 hrs of use. Mower was 3 years old,
oil & filter changed every 25 hours.Currently have the
mower partially torn down.Oil around the plug in #1 cylinder.
This was the newer type engine with the 4 screw air filter.
I would urge anyone to avoid Briggs & Stratton products.

I don't know how to take this all in.
Personal experience counts for a lot.
However.
B&S engines are in EVERYTHING!
Sears Craftsman, John deere, Snapper, Ariens, Cub Cadet, Torro, Troy Built, DR Power, Tru Cut, Swisher, Poulan Pro, MTD Yard machines, Dynamark, and I'm sure the list goes on so.

I'm having a hard time seeing them being total crap!

Hell, I've had an air compressor with a 5HP B&S since about 1991 "it might even be the aluminum cylinder model" and it still runs like a top, burning no oil since the day it was new!

That's 18 years, and true it has relatively few hours on it for being that old, but it's still going strong!

There are Kholer, Onan, Honda, and Kawasaki out there and they do have a good reputation (in order?) even though they are so much more expensive when added to the unit, but I'm stuck with what I have.

If the engine blows out of warranty, I'll just have to rebuild it myself.

i've just had the HG go on my B&S engine. I'm putting it down to a crap design as there is a gap of about 125° that has no head bolt in it. a built-in weak spot just waiting to blow.

I have had pretty good luck with the B&S motors I have had. And one was from 1963.So far so good with the 18 horse Intek in the Craftsman tractor. It hasnt used a drop of oil yet. Is it as good as the Kawasaki thats in the John Deere? Probably not. But it should last as long as I will want it to. I do change the oil before I put it away in the fall. The 3.75 on the White lawnmower other than the carburetor needing cleaning once in the while also runs well. Doesnt use a drop of oil.

I have a 24 HP B&S Intek with the yellow tab ,2 bolt air filter.

It has 148 hrs on it and no problems, no oil loss.

I change the oil (synthetic 10w30) every 40hrs no matter if it is Spring or fall.

I check the air filter quite often and never see dirt in the intake plentum.

I can see how someone not paying attention can put this air filter on and not have the front tabs locked in.

There is one "old school" thing that I do and that is letting a hot engine idle about 5 mins before shutting it off.

I must be really lucky. My hour meter reads 582 hours on a B&S 28N707 15hp. Has no oil filter. I did pull the head at 500 hours to clean the carbon and adjusted the valves.

I keep wondering when it'll blow but it just runs good period.

I'm having the same issue's as most the folks on this forum, glad I found it. I bought a Husqvarna 24/48 brand new in 05' with the 445677-0413-e1 motor and this thing has burned oil since the day I bought it, it was back to the shop with in 1 month of purchase for oil leakage. I recently replaced the head gaskets and valve guide seals thinking this was a good fix, not! I was planning on purchasing a new motor, but this one has 218 hrs on it!! Why waste my money on the same problem? I will look for a new brand, thinking about Kohler. Any suggestions? And by the way I have followed all the servicing recomendations in the owners manual.

i have a 24 horse intek 4 bolt breather that is about 4 yers old. it has started leaking oil at base of left hand jug. it drips when running. would the jug be cracked ? the head is only a couple of inches thick but this is leaking at the very bottom of the jug. it doesent look like it comes apart where it is leaking. has anyone had this problem? or does anyone have any ideas what i need to do to fix it. it is leaking on bottom so it is hard to see unless i pull motor. thanks

Mike, Having the same problem as you. My mower is about 4 years old. Have not changed the oil or filter this season, but about a month ago I started noticing some slight seepage of oil on the left side just below the left cylinder and in front of the oil filter. It has gotten progressively worse. This past weekend it was really pumping out when my wife was mowing with the engine at full throttle. With the engine at an idle, the leakage rate is reduced. I am thiking it could be something related to the oil filter. However, a previous posting on this site addresses a clogged crank case vent tube. I live in south Texas, in what was a coastal hay field. I will check the vent tube and change the oil to see if this fixes the problem. I need to pull the air guide cover on that side to get a better look at where the leak could be. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I have the 24 vtwin B&S. It also is using a qaurt of oil in about a hour of mowing. After reading a lot of these post I decided to try and tackle the problem. I have changed the spark plugs, The reed valve, Both head gaskets,adjusted and readjusted the valves. Still burning oil. So I remove the reed vave tube from the opening in the carb. Still burning oil.I did a compression test and it is 120 psi, and will hold it for 15 minutes, then I released the pressure. Not sure were to go from here, I'm leaning toward just buying another tractor. Just hate to feel defeated. HELP

I would love to see an engine HOLD 120 PSI for 15 minutes and then you have to "release" the pressure. Never saw that before.

What about this plug from a 18 V-twin Intek. runs great, about a 1/2 quart every 3 or four mows. Onluy smokes at start up

WoW! Thanks,

Well, heh!, I assure you I did not dip it. And no oil ran out when it was removed. It does not misfire and runs great.
The motor is around 10 years old, it came on a CubCadet Z-Force ZTR 44" back when they first came out.
I had been putting a 1/2 cup in it every few mows for a couple years. Same amounts, its not getting worse.
The valve clearance has been kept to spec.
I also noticed the rubber vent tube coming out of one of the valve covers had been puffing out a little where its ported into the cover. Nothing that drips, it just collects dust.
This winter if she makes it she will be torn down. I have always checked the oil in any mower before a mow and credit this to her not blowing up.

Thanks

The wet look on the plug is really out of place (in the context of your photo and the details of how well it runs otherwise).
The only other way I can explain a plug being "that wet" without actual liquid standing in the combustion chamber would be if perhaps you only ran the engine for a few seconds (after a cold start) and then shut it down and removed the plug.

This post was edited by mownie on Tue, Aug 13, 13 at 11:35

Do you have a manual fuel shut off valve on the motor? Does the motor take a few cranks to start up? Perhaps fuel is leaking into the carb, then into the combustion chamber, then into the crankcase and oil?

If you have a fuel shut off valve on the motor, then forget my suggestion.

I would thing your winter tear down should be good w/ a new head gasket and possibly breather. Knowing that the sump isn't becoming contaminated w/ fuel is a good thing as well. Some of these head gasket leaks stay small for a long period of time.

I need some help if any on here would mind. My Husvarna riding mower 48 inch yth2348 with a intel v-twin 23hp briggs model#445577 type 0755E1 motor . It started acting like it wanted to die going up hill about 2 years ago but it ran fine after it was on level ground or going down hill. a couple days ago it finally cut off on me and could not get it running. I checked around the fuel pump and i noticed the vacuum hose going from the fuel pump to the valve cover was split. I took the valve cover off and tried to crank it and when i did i noticed a stream of oil shooting out as it turned over.. Didn't think much of that so put the cover back on and I replaced the hose and it started but started smoking really bad and doesn't seem to have very much power. This is the first time it has ever smoked any and now it has a miss in it as well. This all happened all of a sudden on the smoking. I also noticed when i got it back running that oil is seeping out of the fuel pump , i would think that is from the stream of oil i seen when i took the cover off is going up in the vacumn hose now that the cover is back on. Can anyone tell me what would cause these issues on this motor. everything that could possibly be wrong and order to check them first.