worn out points/condenser. Dried out plug wires, worn out cap. Or just moisture on ignition parts. Carbs emptying due to sitting. A combination of all the above.Not a tractor guy, but my old cars always started better with a couple oz of gas poured down the carb.

I've tried gas and starting fluid, I forgot to mention that. They have bought new plugs,plug wires, points, distributor caps, and rotary buttons. I installed them so I'm sure that they are right. Nice blue spark on all of them.

I'm still leaning towards low compression even though it is within the recommended limits.

I always give them a little jab by telling them that they need to get an AC!

Gas get to cylinder sooner if throttle in idle position no choke up draft carbeurator problem. You use coke after cranks just small amount. Old good gas had lead this lubcate valves and seal you still buy lead for gas at auto store.

A lot of the older tractors/engines were designed to be hand cranked - that was the reason for the low compression ratios. My Dad's old Farmall A had 6 volt starter but it also had a place for a hand crank on the front of the harmonic balancer. Just glad I didn't ever have to use it.

Dirt daubers and bad wiring used to waste a lot of my fishing time when I was home on leave. Working on the old tractor instead of being out in the boat.

Ethanol in gas ain't helping. Are they putting in Stabil or equivalent. ONe thing I've learned about old engines, particuarly ones with mags, the points in the mag like to get a thin film after setting for a while. This can be removed by repeated cranking, or just open the mag up and drag a piece of cardboard through the closed points a few times. I have an old Gravely walk behind that I only use in the spring. When I drag it out of the barn, I automatically pull the cover off the mag and do the above. Starts about the third pull. Another thing about gas, do they have a fuel shut off prior to the carb to let the engine run dry prior to setting around? That will preclude a lot of starting BS.

Ev

We've got a dozen old tractors around the farm, from '40s to '60s vintage. However, they are mostly all diesel. Can't keep up with charging batteries on all of them, so we usually just pull start the lesser-used ones when needed. We do have an AC WD45 gasser, but that almost always starts with a charger and a little ether. Otherwise, we pull-start that, too. We also have a little hill nearby that we park some of the tractors on - it is long/steep enough that we can usually start the tractor by coasting down the hill and popping the clutch. Gotta love those old tractors!

Some of the hard starting problems on farm tractors (and lawn tractors) that are used infrequently could be helped with a solar powered battery charger. A good hot battery is always nice on something that's been sitting for 3-4 months.

I bought one for my Mother's Cub Cadet LT last year and haven't had the jumper cables out since.

The small trickle chargers don't take up hardly any room and are lightweight and easy to mount on a post or just about anywhere.

Exmar was probably the closest to being right. it is not the points or compression; if there is spark, the points are doing its job. this is probably a battery ignition system so if there is 12 volts to the coil, it is getting enough spark. the compression must be low in order to start. once started, the compression is removed from the circut and the engine runs with more compression.
todays gas starts to go bad after 30 days becuase of the ethanol. i work for a company that sells a product called Ethanol Shield and Mechanic in a Bottle. you can buy them at service shops or Home Depot/Lowes/Tractor supply. this will stabilize like Sta-bil but it will also protect the fuel system from the harmful affects of ethanol. it will also revitilze marginal gas and protect rubber and plastic parts. it is safe for ALL gas engines.
give it a try and let me know.

Here is a link that might be useful: B3C Fuell

from page one:

"No advertising is allowed in any of the forums."

it is not advertising it is a suggestion. it is no different than mentioning any engine manufactureers name.

if it quacks like a duck...