first thing - drain/replace engine oil and filter. raw fuel in oil will not lube engine. May already be damaged.

If gravity fuel feed, install manual fuel line shutoff valve and use.

May need to remove/overhaul carb, replacing float valve/seat to stop raw fuel flooding. Also, check valves as noted.

"If gravity fuel feed, install manual fuel line shutoff valve and use."

I would point out that engines equipped with a fuel pump may also leak gas thru the carb float needle IF the gas tank is above the carb.

Walt Conner

I stand corrected. Walt is spot-on.

Oil change was mandatory right after the cylinder flooded... I have worked on cars for many years, just a novice on these small engines and their peculiarities. Already has a manual fuel line shutoff that the mechanic that worked on it for my dad a year or so ago installed which makes me think he was having this problem before.

After I adjusted valves it didn't flood again, but won't fire up at this point. I checked spark and appears to have good compression...

Walt, I saw on the other thread that can email people detailed valve adjustment instructions. Can I get your email address?

Am sure Walt can provide such. M/W, have you tried a shot of rattlecan carb cleaner while cranking engine to see if it will try to start..(remember, gotta have the park brake on and fully locked)
if it does pop and tries to start, then time to pull and thoroughly clean the carb, including the small orifices/jets/etc..

"After I adjusted valves it didn't flood again,"

Well adjusting valve had nothing to do with flooding. I have detailed instructions for adjusting valves and some other helpful hints at address below, put in proper format and remind me.

Do yo have reason to think you might have sheared the flywheel key, back fire for instance?

Walt Conner
wconner5 at frontier dot com

continued thanks for the help guys! I think there were two competing issues on this engine, the valve adjustment and something with the fuel system.

I just poured a small amount of gas directly into cylinder and it fired right up and ran for a few seconds before shutting off.

When I had it running for a few minutes last week I was able to drive it a short distance and even lower the cutting blades before it died. At this point I am fairly confident that it is something in the carb.

Is there is a quick way to test the fuel solenoid that resides on the bottom of the carb?

when you walk up to the tractor and turn the ignition switch to "run", you should hear a "click" coming from the base of the engine's carb where the afterfire solenoid is located. If no click, either soleniod is stuck or not getting 12 volts DC.
The solenoid can be removed for a visual/functional check.

Another possibility is trash lodged in the carb jet orifices or a stuck closed float needle valve. in that case, best to remove entire carb from engine, disassemble carefully, soaking and then cleaning thoroughly using small dia stiff brass wire to run thru small holea (will need magnifying glass) blowing out with comrpessed air and re-assembling using a carb rebuild kit and fresh gaskets. Good idea to take pix of entire procedure to know exactly how to put back together.
If not comfy with such, time for a call to the tractor's service shop. Good luck.

definitly no "click". I have rebuilt automotive carbs before although has been a while... Going to bust out the multimeter and make sure the solenoid is getting current.

solenoid unstuck, still no starting. pulled fuel bowl off of carb and pretty nasty... got carb kit on order. will update. thanks guys for the help!

Was impatient and didn't want to wait for carb kit. Dissassembled the carb, cleaned out everything very well. Tons of crud in the needle valve. slapped it back together and she fired up and ran great!

I appreciate the feedback from people, and now I feel a lot more competent working on this thing.