Though it sounds like you've given it the twice over. You could try it without the condensor and any switch hooked up plus take the cover to the point box off. On this ignition, a sheared flywheel key can cause a no spark condition, weak flywheel magnet too. A grounded wire between the coil and breakers could be the cause. BTW, the magnet should draw a screwdriver from an inch away. If all is good, test that when the breakers close that they make ground. Now you are back to the coil.

Everything pointed to the coil even tho it was new and even tho it tested good. So, I bought a new one. No help. At this point, I have tried two new coils, two new condensers and one new set of points. Maybe I'll try replacing the points again. Everything is stripped to the basics. The shutdown wire to the ignition switch is disconnected. The terminal lug (joining the coil primary with the points) is bypassed. Even the insulated wires are spaced away from the ground. There has to be a logical reason to this problem. Someone think of one.

might be a sheared flywheel key.. chk, clean thoroughly, re-asm with good key and torque to spec (dunno what the spec is - sorry)

Does sound like flywheel key, torque 145 ft. lbs.

Walt Conner

Pulled the flywheel. Key in good shape. BTW, made sure the the plunger between the cam and the points was free and moving appropriately. As far as the magnet in the flywheel is concerned, it seems plenty strong. I don't know how to quantify it, however.

Well you are missing some little thing that we can't tell from here. You may want to look for a thread on replacing the point type ignition with CDI. I generally do not recommend that.

Do you have a Service Manual on it? IF not, I MAY have one covering it.

Walt Conner

Regarding switching to electronic ignition: When it died 8 years ago, that was the first thing that I tried. Didn't work. My small engine guy tells me that the reason it didn't work is because CDI won't work with a cast iron flywheel.
Yes, I have a complete manual. In fact, 10+ years ago, I stripped the engine completely and bored the head, put oversized rings, ground the crank and put oversized rod bearings. Used the manual throughout. Worked great after the work - for a couple of years.

"My small engine guy tells me that the reason it didn't work is because CDI won't work with a cast iron flywheel. "

Well IF he said that, he is vastly mistaken. All B&S engines over 8 hp use cast iron flywheels and have as long as I can remember.

NOW, it is true that SOME 32 series cast iron block singles have a problem which is why I suggested you look for a thread on this. Some people convert easily, SOME required reversing the polarity of the flywheel which B&S does or did free EXCEPT the shipping is prohibitive now days. I suspect the difference may be whether they use OEM or Aftermarket kit with the aftermarket being more likely to work but that is just a guess.

Walt Conner

I'm not clear from the text above if you have changed out the high tension lead from ignition coil to spark plug. If not, there is a possibility of an internal short in the old wire, that would allow the spark pulse a path to ground.

The high tension lead is an integral part of the coil.

Still puzzled over the problem. Took every thing apart/off again. Reinstalled according to the book/ Left off the unnecessary things like the shut down wire. Bypassed the terminal lug just in case of a short - tho the ohm meter says it was ok. Checked everything. All tested and/or looked good. Still little to no spark. Just that weak nothing of a spark.

The system consists of a coil (set to 10 thousands clearance), Points (set to 20 thousands), Condenser and one piece of wire between the coil and the points/condenser. The ground wire of the coil is attached and makes a good connection. The magnet will lift a screwdriver almost an inch.

Disconnect the condenser and coil from the breaker points. With an ohm meter confirm that when the points are open that the meter reads infinity or at least very high resistance (meg ohms)between the engine case and where the coil wire attaches. Then, with the points closed, it should read 0 ohms for a dead short. I've had new points not conduct because they were covered with an invisible oxide film. It took a diamond file to get the oxide off, wet/dry carbide sandpaper wouldn't cut it...

Check your condenser with the ohm meter too, from the case to the point where the wire to the points attaches. It may initially read low resistance but should then climb to a high value as it charges.

Check the resistance from the coil primary wire to the engine case. It should be very low, perhaps even reading 0 on your meter. There should be a much higher resistance from the secondary (spark plug lead) to the engine case.

Coils can be tested for spark with a scooter size 6v battery "dinked" across the primary with the condenser across the primary to absorb the back emf when the battery connection is broken. Careful here since if you get it wrong something along the lines of primitive arc welding will result!

Tried it with condenser disconnected. No help.

Use Ohm meter to check conductivity of points when closed. Tested good.

Checked for shorts two ways: One by disconnecting all non essential wires (shut-down wire to ignition switch, terminal lug, etc) and check with ohm meter. Terminal not shorted to frame.

Checked continuity between coil body and the frame. Zero ohms.

Had the condenser checked at the same time that the small engine guy checked the coil. Both coil and condenser tested good.

Frankly, I gave up and am converting to Magnatron electronic ignition. Just shipped the flywheel to Briggs to have magnet polarity changed. Hated to give up, but. . . .

Thanks anyway...

I have struggled with this on a single cylinder cast block on my simplicity 7016. I FOUND THE ANSWER. the connection for the poinst to coil . The bolt they meet at is Faulty and grounds out.i simply joined the wires with a butt connector and fired right up.