Return to the Tractors Forum
| Post a Follow-Up
Craftsman 25hp DLT steering knuckle
| | |
Posted by richard48367 Mi (My Page) on Wed, Oct 28, 09 at 21:33
| The steering connects to one of the front wheels with like a press fit knuckle. This just came apart. I put the rod with the cavity over the little ball and pressed it hard with a pair of pliers. Got it into the garage ok . . . but thinking that was a very temporary fix. How can I fix this? |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: Craftsman 25hp DLT steering knuckle
| | |
| Are you referring to the long rod, that goes from the steering gear---across to the front axle? If so, I have a 22hp Murray which did the same thing...wore out the bulb that held in the threaded stud which went into the front knuckle on the axle I believe it is called a DRAG LINK http://www.outdoordistributors.com/Murray/Murray_Rider/steering.html |
RE: Craftsman 25hp DLT steering knuckle
| | |
| richard - get the full model # and serial # off the tractor ID plate (usually under the tilting seat bottom). Go to SEARS PARTS website, enter that info and look up the steering part(s) that failed. Order replacement parts from Sears, install and enjoy. |
RE: Craftsman 25hp DLT steering knuckle/markymark & rcbe
| | |
| Yep . . . it is called a draglink. It was on the parts listing at Sears. Problem is the price is $48 for a $1.50 part. I thought the rod moved over the ball like a pressed ball bearing . . . but the ball is just part of the rod which has a nut on the end to retain. . . so it is a perfect candidate for some JB Weld Regular and a little creativity. Sears probably gets the part out of some sweat shop in the far east for 10 cents. What a joke.... |
RE: Craftsman 25hp DLT steering knuckle
| | |
I fixed mine this way!
I welded a heavy flat washer on where the round part /head of the pin, or bolt, fell out of the rod. Then i welded a bolt into the flat washer hole, and made it so i could drop the bolt down thru the place where it would connect to the wheel area,. I used a long enough bolt, that after it was welded in the tie rod, and dropped down into the place where it goes, that i could double nut the bolt, leaving it just a bit loose so it would turn in the link by the wheel. Saved a pile of dough! |
RE: Craftsman 25hp DLT steering knuckle
| | |
| Depending on your skill level and toolset, you might be able to find a suitable Heim joint to replace the OEM end. This would require that you cut off the OEM joint from the drag link and thread the drag link rod so a Heim joint can be attached to the OEM draglink. Once you know what a Heim joint is, you should get the idea. You can find sources to buy them online. |
Here is a link that might be useful: Heim joints
RE: Craftsman 25hp DLT steering knuckle
| | |
| I have a grandson who is a Helocopter mechanic for the local Air National Guard. While I was waiting for my new drag link to be delivered, he took the old one and put those HEIN Knuckles on it, then powder coated it. It hangs in my workshop waiting for the new one I bought to fail He cut both knuckles off and welded on HEINS on both ends. 
|
RE: Craftsman 25hp DLT steering knuckle
| | |
| FYI In the dinosaur aircraft world these are called rod end bearings P/Ns Re-4-M-6-5, BACB10AA36E, M46-19L, H4-2003, REM8AZH12H, ect... they come in different sized. I probably change and throw away 10 a week. Why don't they use them on Low end LT. THEY COST TOO MUCH. |
RE: Craftsman 25hp DLT steering knuckle
| | |
| < The steering connects to one of the front wheels with like a press fit knuckle. This just came apart. I put the rod with the cavity over the little ball and pressed it hard with a pair of pliers. Got it into the garage ok . . . but thinking that was a very temporary fix. How can I fix this? > Richard,
After pressing the ball into the cavity - Take a center punch and lightly peen around the cavity make sure to get some grease into the cavity prior to pressing together.
This cheap fix will suprisingly last quite awhile. |
RE: Craftsman 25hp DLT steering knuckle
| | |
| This was a helpful thread. After reading that the ball joint (or press fit knuckle) was part of the draglink part, I decided to modify the process suggested by rustyj14. I removed the ball joint, drilled out the end of the draglink, and used a quarter inch bolt to attach the end of the draglink to the steering bar. The picture at http://www.cyber-nook.com/MowerFix/SteeringFix.jpg shows this solution. I suspect the sheer forces on the quarter inch bolt are fairly strong and it may eventually break. There seems to be enough metal in the draglink to bore out a 5/16 3/8 inch hole and use a larger bolt. I did not remove the draglink to drill, and my hole is off-center – I suggest removing the draglink to drill it. |
Here is a link that might be useful: Picture of steering fix
|
|
|
|
