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Snapper aluminum drive plate removal
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Posted by snapper12 (My Page) on Fri, Nov 20, 09 at 14:02
| Just wandering if anyone had any ideas on removing the aluminum drive plate from the bottom of a 10hp briggs. I have removed the allen head screws and soaked it in penetrating oil and this thing will not budge. Any tricks? Thanks |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: Snapper aluminum drive plate removal
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| I have used a blunt bit in an air chisel placed behind the aluminum drive wheel on the steel hub. I now have a puller made from an old drive hub with a washer welded over end opposite the threads and a nut welded to that. Threaded into the threaded hole in the bottom of the aluminum drive wheel, then tighten a bolt in the nut to pull the hub. What you can do if you have none of this is remove aluminum drive wheel by tapping it in a counter clockwise direction to loosen it then unscrewing it from the steel hub. Use a regular 3 jaw puller on the steel hub then. Be careful to not break the fins on the back side of the aluminum drive disc when tapping to remove. Walt Conner |
RE: Snapper aluminum drive plate removal
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| Thanks a lot for responding. Do you mean counter clockwise looking at it from the bottom or top? I guess what I'm saying is does it have backwards threads or regular? I tried that a little but I was afraid I might be tightening it so I gave up. Thanks again. Mark Pack |
RE: Snapper aluminum drive plate removal
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| Also, one more thing. Whats a good way to hold the shaft still while tapping the drive plate? Thanks |
RE: Snapper aluminum drive plate removal
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| Use or borrow the air chisel as walt says .Apply a little heat , it will be off in seconds |
RE: Snapper aluminum drive plate removal
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| The threads are right hand, normal, counter clockwise looking at the drive face of disc. Inertia of engine has generally been enough for me but I haven't done that in years because I have better methods now. You could take out the spark plug, thread a length of 3/8" or so nylon rope in so piston is stopped compressing it. Leave end of rope out to retrieve of course. You are going to need to hit with a sharp rap (but don't break the darned fins) Seems like I may have clamped vise grips in tight on the aluminum drive disc and hit the vise grips up close sometimes. Walt Conner |
RE: Snapper aluminum drive plate removal
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| Ok, I'm clueless to what the disc looks like, but would like to suggest using a chain wrench, mine looks like a pipe wrench handle with a toothed face while a chain (like a motorcycle chain) wraps around and is then attached to the handle to get a grip on what you are removing. Hardware store or tool store should have these, I bought mine at Harbor Freight, it was pretty reasonable. |
RE: Snapper aluminum drive plate removal
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| The aluminum dive plate screws to the deck drive pulley on the engine. I have removed the plate without removing the whole assembly from the motor. Stand the mower on end and you can use a big punch and place it against one of the ribs on the topside of the plate. Which would be to the left of the crankshaft as the plate will unscrew counter clockwise. If you remove the whole ass. from the crank be sure it's remounted in the proper place for proper clutch operation. |
RE: Snapper aluminum drive plate removal
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| Thanks a lot for all the replies. Its gonna be me, vise grips, chisel, hammer(big), rope, and the drive plate tomorrow. This is getting serious! Also, just so that everyone knows, the reason for all of this is because I'm swapping engines and need the drive plate and pulley for the new one. Thanks again. |
RE: Snapper aluminum drive plate removal
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| The drive plate came off with ease. I actually used the prongs of a tie-rod separator to drive it off. I felt pretty stupid after working on this thing for 2-3 days. After the drive plate came off the pulley literally fell off and then I could use the small puller I have to pull the hub off. I know you guys are already aware of all of this but I hope this forum helps someone in the future as much as it has helped me. Thanks to all who contributed. |
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